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alross2

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Everything posted by alross2

  1. alross2
    Rather than spend hours looking, I thought I'd start here first. The plans I'm using to develop the kit of WYOMING were drawn by an actual schooner captain who is also a well-known researcher, so I have a warm fuzzy about their accuracy. There is no belaying plan, but that is not much of a problem. I can figure that out based on rigging plans for other schooners. The main problem is that there is no indication of where the halyards on the forecastle mast (that's what P & S called it, as well as #1) tie off. The plans do not show a fife rail nor a spider band on this forward-most mast. Like many schooners, this mast passes through the fore house and the boom jaw rest is quite close to the roof. WYOMING was flush-decked and did not have bulwarks, only a rail with stanchions which doesn't sound strong enough to support pin rails. There are no indications of pin rails anywhere forward. There are two large wooden bitts just forward of the house, each having two belaying pins, but this doesn't seem like enough to be the belaying points for this mast. So, does anyone have an illustraton of this particular configuration that would clear things up for me?
  2. alross2
    Catheads, horses, and deck pads are on.
  3. alross2
    All of the starboard chain plates are now in place. They will be black eventually, as the hull will get another coat of black.
  4. alross2
    Made two new templates for setting the chain plate angles. One is for the forecastle mast, the other for the other five masts. The top of the template corresponds with the slots in the channel while the bottom corresponds with the bottom of the chain plate, You just align the top section with the channel slots and use a pin or ,020" drill through the bottom holes to mark the position of the lower part of the chain plate.
  5. alross2
    Made up a jig for drilling locating holes for the pegs on the fife rails. There's not much clearance between the mast and inside of the fife rails, so this will align everything properly. It will be part of the kit.
  6. alross2
    The fore and midships houses are mostly complete and glued down, Got a few more pieces for the aft house, then it will be fixed down. After that, I have to make the deflection rails for the skylights and add the mopboards around the houses.
  7. alross2
    Nic will be bringing the WYOMING in its current state to the New London show this week.
  8. alross2
    Working on companions and skylights this week. This is the mostly finished aft house. Still have to add the skylight and paint the window frames. The large companion has ten laser-cut parts. The gangway comprises four pieces of .015" laserboard.
  9. alross2
    Railings are complete and painted. Have to do a little touchup, but it came out well.
  10. alross2
    Starboard rail is done. Only 125 more stanchions to go... Once both rails are complete, I'll mask off the deck and paint the rails and channels white.
  11. alross2
    And, the cap rail in place.
  12. alross2
    Starboard aft rail with all stanchions in place. Each stanchion has a slight inboard cant to it, so it's best to simply place but not glue then into their holes, then align them one by one with the top rail taped in place, The pegs on the stanchions will be snipped off flush with the top of the rail and will be covered with a .015" laser board cap rail.
  13. alross2
    Test fitting the stanchions and cap rail. Don't wan't to stick all 250 stanchions into the chock rail and not have them line up correctly!!
  14. alross2
    A momentous occasion - the first rail stanchion has been glued to the chock rail!🙂 Only 249 more to go...😱
  15. alross2
    Hatches, covered and open showing coal. The closed hatches have laser-cut battens, as well.
  16. alross2
    Working on the channels this morning They're laser-cut with the chain plate slots included. They're easy to set up as the second slot aligns with the center of the mast holes in the deck. The chain plates will be cut to length and a template will be provided to set them at the proper angle. The turnbuckles will attach directly to the chain plates.
  17. alross2
    Finishing the masts today. The boom jaw rests have locaters etched on their underside to make it easier to align the four brackets.
  18. alross2
    Admin · 6m · Been busy making sticks this week. Still have to add eyepins and blocks to the short booms and gaffs. The blue tape on the masts is just to keep the sail rings from sliding off before i add the boom jaw rests.
  19. alross2
    Dontcha just love laser? .015" laserboard, one piece.
  20. alross2
    Plans show it as the light load waterline and it seems consistent with this photo.
  21. alross2
    Experimenting with the mast. The bands are black construction paper that will be cut from lasered strips. They are closer to scale thickness than britannia and look like wrought iron, so you don't have to paint them. The items between the blue tape and the doubling are 24 sail hoops lasered from .015" laserboard. The T shaped object is the laser-cut glut. Once that is attached, a black paper strap ("barn door") will finish it off. The boom jaw rest is five pieces of lasered 1/32" ply with a copper tape chafing plate.
  22. alross2
    Test fitted the mast components today. Assembling the trestle trees is a bit fiddly, but everything fits snugly. Still have to drill the hole in the topmast for the fid.
  23. alross2
    Some of the deck furniture and sticks placed on the hull to get a sense of what it will look like. I still have to fit the houses to the deck camber.
  24. alross2
    Got the bottom paint on this morning. It's regular red oxide automotive primer and is redder than it appears in these photos. In an hour or so, I'll remask and do the white sheer rail, chock rail and waterway.
  25. alross2
    Did you know that the tryworks kit that comes with BlueJacket's 1/24 MORGAN cross-section kit is also available separately? While it looks rather complex, it is really quite an easy build. There are about individual laser-cut bricks that are applied over a laser-cut frame. The pots and stacks are cast resin.

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