harvey1847

The hull planking is on and first sanding complete.  Hand sanding to a fine finish will be next.  I left a section of planking off to expose the framing, but I have decided against installing most of the below deck items inside the hull.  I left a little DNA on the keelson after a little slip of a chisel, so there is no denying who built this thing.
 
I put in a few inside planks for strength and the two mast steps are in place.  The deck frames are started.  There are a few carlings where there are deck structures and to set up the masts' partners.  Once the deck is framed the stanchions and bulwarks will follow.
 
Allan

A bit of progress has taken place.  Frames are made and partially faired.  Couple strakes have gone on which has beefed up the rigidity of the framing a lot.  I did not do much fairing inboard down low as the lower hold is filled with cement for a good portion of the hull.   Still debating about putting in the lower deck and cabin details.  If I decide to cut out sections of the framing to expose areas inboard, at least the area where the frames are removed will get some finishing work.   With Effie having gone through several transitions, her inboard layout also change a lot.  I am probably staying with how she orginally came off the ways, so her layout inboard was simpler and certainly more austere than in later modifications.  Keel, stem, deadwood, keelson are Castello box, the frames are poplar.  Poplar is normally a bit soft for my own taste, but as all the frames are doubled, and the grain is running opposite on each pair, I had no breakage and the fairing has shown them to be pretty nice to work with, so far. 
Allan
 
 

This is the 1st stage of fairing the outside and inside of the hull using a long neck grinder.
This is a fabulous tool to use, but a word of CAUTION, this tool can ruin your model if your not careful.
 

 

 

 

 
mij

Hi, 

There where many times since I started building my Kingfisher that I thought I should start a build log. And today is the day. I've started the kit last november and spend a lot of time since. Not that I have made much progress, but it is not a race and its tremendous fun building. I ran in to trouble when I was making the hawse timbers, I did not like how the shape came out. It was time to have a little diversion from frame building and find the courage to make new parts from scratch for the hawse timbers. So I left the path of the instruction and started building the stove, some gratings and the gun trucks. That was a lot of fun. The gun trucks are almost finished and wait for the arrival of replacement cannons from The Lumberyard. 
 
 

====================================

So that's what was left from my old build log in Google cache. Unfortunately the rest was shot into cyberspace and is now a pleasant memory of 2 years and 7 months of logging the progress of my Kingfisher. And probably the longest story I ever wrote in my whole life as I don't like writing at all. So instead of trying to get everything back I'll put a selection of the pictures I did keep on my laptop up in this post and will go on from there.

Maybe I'll add text along the way but don't want to be kept from modeling to much. Most of the pictures say more than words anyhow.
 
Update:
 
So Dave (Midnight) saved my log previous to MSW’s move from 1.0 to 2.0.
 
He was ever so kind to share these files with me to rebuild my buildlog. Unfortunately I’m not able to convert the PDF’s
back to text to get them back into my buidlog. So instead of typing the lot over again I decided to put the PDF’s on a public share where every body who’s interested can download them from.
 
To make live a little easier I compiled a small index so you now what to expect in each PDF.
All the PDF's can be found here. I know it's a bit of a disappointment not to be able to put the information back into this log but the good news is nothing is lost. Any comments of how its working are welcome.
 
Remco

Thanks for the appreciation. Greg's right, starting with a cross section  (and a cross section is already a big project!) is good advise.
 
Today something different. For some time I've been using a small board as a movable workstation, so I can move is out of the way if I need to install something in the hull. As you can see I don't use a building board to hold the hull as I work mostly seated. The board is also used for my sanding block and today I added a small edge to is so it works as a shooting bord now. I had to adapt the sanding block so it will ride along the edge. A good sanding station helps to make perfect joints ( and sharp chisels....).
 
 

 

 

 
Remco

forgot to mention frames have all been cut awaiting the backbone to be finished.
doc

Hello:
 
  Had to start over with the quarter galleys put my finger through the light right off the get go. So I came up with a different way that worked for me.
 
Starter by making a jig that fit where the galley fit. Then glued stops top and bottom to hold the same beams 3mm above the jig, glued the print on in place then put a thin coat of petroleum jelly on the print so the glued parts wouldn't stick.  Rubber cemented the galley beams to the jig and assembled the rest.  The jig held the part so well it could be sanded shaped, a little clean up in the window sections and only had a little final fitting to the hull.  Hopefully I can move on now been hear too long.
 
TJ

Hello everyone,
 
No word yet on my poor computer but I finally found out how to reduce my photos on this laptop  
 
I made some close-ups with my Cannon with the 100 mm micro lens.  Unfortunately the lighting in the shipyard was low so the depth of field was too narrow.
In any case, I thought to let you see why I keep picking at the little details to clean up.
 
Tomorrow I'll be sanding with 360 or 400 grit paper, maybe even wet.  Then I need to make and install the net/cable cutter to the vertical keel portion that supports the control surfaces and the props.
I'm coming close going topside    
 
Okay, here are the pics I wanted to post yesterday.
 

This is a shot of the starboard dive plane with the "steel" reinforcing plates over the hinge pin bearings. Same on all other control surfaces on both sides/
 

This is a pic of the starboard stern torpedo door. A detail of the center bar in the mooring thingy (I think).
Now you can see why I keep picking at things to clean them up. The hinges are at the aft end and the doors are pulled hydraulically open inward.
 

Here are the bow torpedo tube doors with the same kind of mooring thingies. Sorry but I can't come up of the correct words for these things. The hinges for the bow tube doors are in the front and also pulled hydraulically open inward.
 

Another shot of the starboard dive plane with the reinforcing plates.
 
Cheers,

My two cents in the "should I buy the kit" discusion
 
With the knowledge I have now of the 'kit' I would not buy it again. Apart from the hefty price tag it's more of a scratch build starter package than a kit. And although all the parts are precut, Mr Hunt had no good control of his CNC router leaving ugly dents in every part. Cleaning up is tedious and will harm the overall shape of the parts. I stopped using them a long time ago....
Building the kit is just as complex as making it from scratch, so if I could go back in time I would:
 
Get the Swan plans from admiraltymodels.com 
Get the Swan framing package from hobbymillusa.com 
Get TFFM Vol I, II and III from seawatchbooks.com, well I got them as you need the books even if you have the 'kit' as the practicum won't take you all the way.
 
(ps just a happy customer from the above company's nothing more) 
 
Buy yourself a good scroll saw and table saw, you can easily squeeze this into the budget of the kit price you've just saved from spending. And it's a good investment for future projects. 
Take a plunge into the wonderful world of scratch building, it's not as difficult as I had imagined especially with all the help and knowledge here on MSW you can tap in to. And one other thing, if you mess up a kit part like the hawse timbers ( it took me more than one attempt  ) you're in trouble. But if you make your own parts you just cut a new set and try again.....
 
Now lets get back on topic Thank you Martin for your kind words.
 
Current state of the lower deck. Progress is slow bud steady.
 

 

 
Remco
 
 
 
 
 

some pictures

my first working with PE, using C/A at present thsi is part of the smoke stack

Good evening everyone
 
the funnel area progress, finding i am spending more time worrying about the weathering than the build it's self so have told my self no more painting until i am much further ahead, i am constantly checking build logs to avoid doing to much that i may rip out , the fitting kit that i dont have at present, replaces so much of the original (or should i say enhances a lot of the original)
there are 3 hangers on the build one of them is a double am hoping to be able to do some work so you can possibly see some of the internals 
 

Good evening everyone
 
The kit is ordered, the Deluxe PE kits is not available in the UK at present, should be another couple of weeks
The Victory is safe and secure for a while, and will be finished
The Workroom has had a bit of a make over as well, i put a window in at the weekend, at last i have some natural light in there and a different carpet as the one i had, it was impossible to find anything when dropped onto it, 
 
research 
 
http://www.ipmsstockholm.se/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2250&start=30
http://www.kbismarck.com/models/
 
http://3dhistory.de/wordpress/3d-models/dkm-bismarck/bismarck-high-res
 
http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=144178
http://www.bismarck-class.dk/shipmodels/shipmodels_menu.html
https://www.facebook.com/BismaarckModell148Scale/photos_stream
http://www.bismarck-class.dk/shipmodels/shipmodels_menu.html

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 14 – Setting Frames – preparation
 
American Clipper Note: Young America cost $140,000 to build.  Gross revenue from her first voyage from New York to San Francisco was $86,400 – more than half her initial cost in her first four months!
 
 
With four frames finished and a few more in progress, it was time to start thinking about erecting them.  The first picture shows the midship frame set up temporarily on the keel, supported by the two clamped squares set at the maximum breadth line on both sides.
 

 
The so-called "midship" frame is set at the deadflat location along the keel.  This is not at the midpoint of the hull, but is actually about 20’ forward of that point.  Also, this frame is the widest part of the hull only in the neighborhood of the load waterline.  At topside the frames immediately aft are wider and at the bottom the frames immediately forward are wider.  This is a departure from normal 18C RN practice where the midship frame was the widest at every height.
 
Before setting any frames, some other work had to be done.  First, the keel had to be bolted securely to the shipway.  The next picture shows the three bolts made for this purpose.
 

 
These are identical to the type used on Naiad.  The reduced diameter section fits up through the keel.  It is stopped at the bottom of the keel shoe by the shoulder at the change in diameter.  This limits the distance the bolt can be screwed into the model, preventing the keelson from being popped off by over tightening.  The small threads are 4-40 and the larger 10-32.
 
The next picture shows one of the bolts pulled up at the keel bottom by the small nut on top,
 

 
With the top nuts on the three bolts tightened up, and larger holes drilled through the shipway, the keel is slipped into position as shown below.
 

 
Thumbscrews with lock washers are then tightened up under the shipway.  Eventually the top nuts will be filed to fit within the woodwork and the top of the studs will be filed flush  to the nuts.  These will be covered by the keelson or deadwood.
 
With the keel secured, the end posts were set up in the vertical position as shown below.
 

 
The next picture shows three frames set loosely in position and a fourth lying flat where it would have been assembled in the real shipyard.
 

 
At the yard, once the midship frame was set, moveable assembly platforms were constructed fore and aft.  Working two at a time, frame pairs were assembled on these then raised up into position.  The platforms were then moved and the work on the next frames begun.  Methods like these enabled these ships to be constructed in 3 to 6 months – some in less time.  If there were two of me I could duplicate this practice.
 
The next picture shows the midship frame being prepared for installation.  A pine cross-spale is being glued to the toptimbers to hold the correct upper separation.  Also, while in this position, an alignment centerline is marked on the spale with a razor blade.
 

 
This will be done to perhaps every 4th or 5th frame – plus any that need it – until some other means of holding frame alignment is installed.
 
Finally, the fore and aft faces of the first several frame pairs were squared up from the base drawing and marked in pencil on the top of the keel as shown below.
 

 
The frames will be glued to the keel based on these marks – and of course plumbed and aligned.  Bolt holes will be drilled through the floors, and bolts – probably brass pins - driven into the keel – as was done in practice.  Although authentic, these will be invisible when the keelson is installed over them.
 
 
Ed

To ship all items are ready. Now it remains to collect it into a finished model. I guess to finish the job before Christmas. Then he will make the sail masts and rigging.

Some photos parts manufacturing

I fabricated a jimelga.
I only needed two attempts

John, no more than the usual daily grog ration is required.  I have a very friendly relationship with my disk sander.  Note in the picture that it has been fitted with a new table that edges right up to the disk.  Actually I only use this method to bring the ends of the top timbers down to the milled thickness below.  This is actually much less risky than milling the unheld ends of the frame - even when sanding on the "up" side of the disk, as shown in the picture.  Very light pressure.  The occasional manicure is a bonus.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 13 –Frame Assembly 2
 
 
American Clipper Note: In 1848 there were 9 sailings recorded from New York to San Francisco and they averaged over 150 days.  The following year, 1849, after the gold discovery, there were 37 passages averaging 177 days – for those that made it.  From 1850 to 1853 - as the extreme clippers came off the slips - there were around 375 voyages averaging 128 days.  In her maiden voyage Young America did it in the excellent time of 110 days.  This was longer than the record of 89 days, 21 hours set by McKay’s Flying Cloud in 1851, but up to the end of 1853, times of under 110 days were achieved only 41 times in the 375 passages.
 
The first picture shows frame pair A with the pins removed after assembly. 
 

 
The was the first pair forward of the deaflat, so there is virtually no bevel.  The next picture shows the assembly being sanded back to the aft profile on the disk sander.  The inside was cleaned up using a spindle sander, but left rough.
 
 

 
At this stage the outer profiles are accurate enough to set the frame, so the patterns can be removed.  This will allow the sidings of the upper timbers to be reduced.
 
Reducing the sidings after assembly will allow the frames to be accurately beveled based on the patterns, which would be inaccurate for the timbers with reduced siding.  Also, it is much easier to assemble the timbers using pins if they are all the same thickness.  The drawback is that timbers have to be reduced on the finished assembly.
 
The safest way to do this – for you and the work - is filing by hand as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The sidings step down by an inch of so at each joint moving upward, so this can be done by filing then measuring.
 
With so many frames to do, I adopted two other methods to speed the process.  The first is shown in the next picture.
 

 
In this method a ¼-inch end mill is lowered down to touch the piece.  The piece is then removed and the cutter lowered to make the cut above the joint.  Do not even think of doing this without the guard and without being able to hold the piece on two sides as shown.    Although the amount to be removed at each level is small, I did this in stages of about .005”.
 
The next picture shows how the remaining ends were done after the above step using the disk sander.
 

 
Both these last methods require a lot of care.
 
After a few frames, I decided to install the top timbers – cut from thinner 10” stock - on the forward frames after all this work.  These will be visible inside the hull planking above the main deck, so this way they will all be the same size.  The next picture shows a top timber.
 

 
In this picture the iron bolts have been installed.  The next picture shows that work in progress.
 

 
As on Naiad, I used black monofilament for these iron bolts, held in with CA glue.
 
The last picture shows the final midship frame, ready to be erected.
 

 
 
 
Ed

Hi Shipmates.
Thanks for looking in MIJ and Bob 
A little update.
The Ryders and the racks are finished.
Copper pinned the Ryders tonight and will photograph them tomorrow.
 
Photo of ryders before copper pinning. And Racks.

 
Ryder fitted but not fixed yet.

 
Ryder center bridges will be fitted and shapped on the Ryders being Fixed in place. Not possable to do so until they have been assembled and fixed.
More tomorrow.
 
Regards Antony.

Hi.
 Just a update :-
 The timber in the Hold is now in place. I used Black card to simulate the chulking and will start the treenailing next week.
And made the Mast Step.

 

 
Made up the corner posts for the Pump house and quite happy with my first attempt at cutting a profile
Planks are fitted and not glued at this point Nice fit.

 
Also Made the Pump house. and the Shot lockers.

 



 
Will start on the Ryders next.. Not sure on how I will do this as each set will be different size.
 
Thanks for looking in
 
Regards Antony.

Anthony,
 
I would think all the decks are caulked, and I believe I have seen a photo of the lower deck being so treated. If you also look at photos of the Victory's decks, I think you will see they are. Naturally the weather decks are the most important in keeping water out, but if you think about it all of the decks would get wet at some stage, from washing down periodically, pump water, etc. So yes, I would do it.
 
An interesting piece of information from the curator Andrew Baines recently, is that the Victory is to be again caulked using the traditional methods, during her refit. After having used a synthetic mastic substance for several years, he said that the modern material just didn't flex with the temperature, as traditional hemp would do - and was a source of leaks! Surprise, surprise, it just goes to show that the tried and tested (over several hundred years) techniques are often the best.
 
She's looking very good so far, I shall be following with interest.

Hi.
Two photos with the timber cut to length and coloured with Oil and dye.
 

 

 
Also have Backboard with section plan in place to check square and correct placement.
 
Regards Antony.

Hi.
Another step done.
A Photo with the ship on my 14 year old lads Wheelchair tray. for Yves.

 
Close up of the frames.

 
The timber cut and ready to put into place.

 
I will colour the timber before fitting (not sure yet on what colour/stain).
 
More as I progress.
Regards Antony.

Hello.
I have been asked to construct a Model to show the inside of a Ship.
I have chosen to build the HMS Victory at a large scale of 1/36.90
Having got permission to use the plans from :-
http://www.mountainhaven.com/VictoryXCP/PDFbin/Frame_Sta_( .pdf
http://www.mountainhaven.com/VictoryXCP/PDFbin/Frame_Sta_0.pdf
http://www.mountainhaven.com/VictoryXCP/PDFbin/Frame_Sta_3.pdf
 
A previous topic regarding plans.
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2885-large-scale-cross-section-drawings/#entry79890
 
I have redrawn the plans and added bits and made the drawings slightley more accurate.
I am using adobe illustrator.
The nice thing about using Illustrator is that it is vector drawn so it can be scaled up to any size. I am printing mine on A1 this gives me the scale of 1:36.90
The construction of this model will consist of five frames on each side.
The Keel is make from mahogany.
This will have holes for pining the frame guides.


And the Garboard plank cutout. And false copper pins/rivets.




The two frame guides are fixed to the keel.
The frames are inserted into the frame guides and jig'ed to hold them at the correct shape and distance.


I have also included the curvature of the hull into the model.
The clamping blocks have a curve in to allow for the hull curvature.
The clamping blocks will remain in place until I need to remove them for planking.
The dummy frames will be added to the ends of the hull.
I will use 4mm basswood for the dummy frames.


Next I will plank the exterior.
Then its building up the deck by deck.
 
Orlop deck beams drawing.
Orlop Deck LH.pdf
Lower deck beams drawing.
Lower Deck LH.pdf
Middle deck beams drawing.
Middle Deck LH.pdf
Upper deck beams drawing.
Upper Deck LH.pdf
Quarter Deck beams drawings.
Quarter Deck LH.pdf
Section through centre drawings.
hull.pdf
Side view drawing.
Hull Side View tmp.pdf
Orlop deck layout.
Orlop Deck Plan LH.pdf
Lower Deck layout.
Lower Deck Plan LHtemp.pdf
Middle Deck layout.
Middle Deck Plan LH.pdf
Upper Deck layout.
Upper Deck Plan LH.pdf
Quarter Deck layout.
Quarter Deck Plan LH.pdf
 
Some of the timber preped for use.

I will Add the drawings after I have as I compleated them.
 
Started the build as you can see in the photos .
Have now got to add the Dummey frames.
 
Regards Antony.