mij Posted September 24, 2013 Share #1 Posted September 24, 2013 I have started to build HMS Sussex 1693 from the plans by Gilbert McArdle, all the frames will be made from tulipwood. These first two pictures show how I fitted a removable keel by fitting a piece of brass tube into the baseboard and a smaller piece of brass tube to the keel. The tulipwood being planed for the keel Milling the tulipwood for the forward frames The frame templates are glued to the tulipwood, the glue I use is a non-toxic washable glue stick Cutting out the frames avsjerome2003, mtaylor, aykutansin and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mij Posted September 24, 2013 Author Share #2 Posted September 24, 2013 Hi Brian It should only take me 2 to 3 years to build. mij Jeronimo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mij Posted September 30, 2013 Author Share #3 Posted September 30, 2013 Sanding the forward frames Milling the stem scarf Forward frames fitted to the keel and deadwood This is one of my main machines, an old 3 wheel, 104" INCA bandsaw. mij avsjerome2003, druxey, gjdale and 5 others 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mij Posted September 30, 2013 Author Share #4 Posted September 30, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egkb Posted September 30, 2013 Share #5 Posted September 30, 2013 Wow, some serious equipment going on there... nice Eamonn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjdale Posted September 30, 2013 Share #6 Posted September 30, 2013 (edited) This looks to be an interesting build. I have the book by Gib McArdle and will be very interested to see the model built up from his plans. Edited September 30, 2013 by gjdale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipmodel Posted September 30, 2013 Share #7 Posted September 30, 2013 Very nice work in a larger scale. I'm willing to spend a few years following your journey. Are you fairing the insides of the frames as you go along, or will you wait till the exteriors are faired? Dan . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mij Posted September 30, 2013 Author Share #8 Posted September 30, 2013 Hi Dan Yes, I shall be fairing the frames on the inside as I go along. I like to have it looking neat as possible. mij Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookster Posted September 30, 2013 Share #9 Posted September 30, 2013 Good work MJ! I'll follow along. I particularly want to see how you use your mill to make parts. How big will she be when done? Masted and rigged? OK, I'll stop with the questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dvm27 Posted September 30, 2013 Share #10 Posted September 30, 2013 Excellent start MJ! I love the indexed setup you're using. Insuring the frames are centered and the maximum height of breadth is where it belongs should be relatively easy with this jig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mij Posted October 1, 2013 Author Share #11 Posted October 1, 2013 The mill I`m using is a Proxxon mill/drill-complete system BFW40E, the model will be 47" long and will be built as a navy board model. m i j Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harvey1847 Posted October 1, 2013 Share #12 Posted October 1, 2013 Good luck mij! I will folow you aswel Daniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mij Posted October 1, 2013 Author Share #13 Posted October 1, 2013 Thanks guys mij Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdT Posted October 1, 2013 Share #14 Posted October 1, 2013 God start Mij. I look forward to following your progress. Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mij Posted October 2, 2013 Author Share #15 Posted October 2, 2013 Here are some photos of HMS Sussex from the Authors book This will be an interesting an challenging project for me, and I know I shall have the support from you when I neeed it. mij avsjerome2003, harvey1847, GrandpaPhil and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michiel Posted October 2, 2013 Share #16 Posted October 2, 2013 That's a nice set of tools you have there. What are the dimensions of that spindel sander? I have been considdering one of those, but I'm not sure yet.. Michiel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mij Posted October 2, 2013 Author Share #17 Posted October 2, 2013 With out measuring the spindel sander, (as I`m at work) the top plate must be 12" square and the body 18" high. If your building a framed model, it`s a must have. mij Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michiel Posted October 2, 2013 Share #18 Posted October 2, 2013 thanks, I'm currently not building with real frames but the next one is sure to be so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdT Posted October 2, 2013 Share #19 Posted October 2, 2013 Impressive tool collection, mij. I will add a few thoughts about the spindle sander. It is a very useful tool for sanding the insides of curves. I would recommend an oscillating type to avoid sanding the same spot on the drums and one with multiple drum diameters. A would also highly recommend some sort of dust collection on this and all power sanders. This can be as simple as a shop vacuum connected to the sander and run off a combined switch. Before dust collection my sanding spread dust from the basement throughout the house and I woke up most mornings with congestion - no more. Before buying a spindle sander I used a drum fitted to a table top drill press. All the frames on Naiad were done with this arrangment. Ed Jeronimo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mij Posted October 2, 2013 Author Share #20 Posted October 2, 2013 Hi Ed This an oscilating sander, and at the back at the base, there is an outlet for a vac. But I don`t always use it, my work shop is an out side garage. mij Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mij Posted October 3, 2013 Author Share #21 Posted October 3, 2013 Here are some of my tools I use for models. SIP bobbin sander Walker Turner drill presss, and Proxxon lathe Proxxon mill/drill Proxxon bench saw A Proxxon small bench saw Draper 16" fretsaw mij avsjerome2003, Archi and Jeronimo 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookster Posted October 3, 2013 Share #22 Posted October 3, 2013 nice setup there Mij. I hope Santa Claus brings me a mill this Christmas.... Do you like the Proxxon? For the money they seem OK from what I've read. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mij Posted October 3, 2013 Author Share #23 Posted October 3, 2013 Yes they are great tools for model makers and if you look after them they will last a long time. My latest gift to myself is a Proxxon OZI 220/E Multi tool (Delta sander) which I will use to fair the frames. mij Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
realworkingsailor Posted October 4, 2013 Share #24 Posted October 4, 2013 Looks like a very interesting build. Don't see too many ships of this era being built. Nice collection of workshop toys too... Andy mij 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anja Posted October 13, 2013 Share #25 Posted October 13, 2013 Hello Mij, Happy birthday. Enjoy it and have a great day. Anja PS - The link in your signature isn't working. mij 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mij Posted October 16, 2013 Author Share #26 Posted October 16, 2013 After fitting 8 full foreward frames, I decided that I was not happy with my build, I built the frames oversize and I was to fair them inside and out as Gilbert McArole done on his build. I used Titebond for all the gluing, so I put my build in a bucket of water to release the glue. It came apart with the use of a pallet knife between the frames, I will have to re-cut 8 more floor timber, because I had to chisel them out of the deadwood (I did say to myself, mind your fingers, I`ve now got a plaster on my index finge on my left hand). I will now fair the frames as I fit them, which is the way I mormally build my models and I am much happier with. First picture of my re-build. These are 2 of my new Proxxon toys mtaylor and Archi 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mij Posted October 16, 2013 Author Share #27 Posted October 16, 2013 Hi Brian It only came yesterday, but I used it on a piece of scrap wood and you can do a lot with it. I`ve got other pads and cutters to go with it. mij Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjdale Posted October 16, 2013 Share #28 Posted October 16, 2013 Can you tell us the model number of the one on the right in the photo please? I can't seem to spot it on the Proxxon site. Looks cool though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mij Posted October 16, 2013 Author Share #29 Posted October 16, 2013 It`s a Proxxon LWS Long Neck Angle Grinder (Ref: 28547) mij gjdale 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mij Posted October 21, 2013 Author Share #30 Posted October 21, 2013 Started to build up the frames. The first picture is the full frame drawn on paper with the floor timber and the top timber tacked to the paper using Copydex. This picture shows the 1st futtock glued to the floor timber and the top timber using Titebond and held in position with 1bl weights. This picture shows the complete frame, slightly over size for fairing. Jeronimo, Archi, NMBROOK and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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