harvey1847

Hello Egen!
 
Beautiful work as always. A table saw is one of the machines on my list for this year...
 
I am kind of "slow" so I have make a sketch to see if I have understood the idea of your device. Tell me if I´m right or wrong please. I´ll erase the post if you want. I do not want to confused the people...
 

 
best wishes!
 
 
Daniel.

Hello Ed!
 
Wiht that "cadency" of frames I am sure that you will end the hull in two moths or so...not two years!
 
 
Look what I have found about the treenail question. I have tried to translate it the best I could. The sketches talk by themselves but the way it was done in the XVIII century amazed me. It is the Rooth system, around 1752.
 

 
(1) A drill is made that pass through the external planking the frame and the interior planks; A treenail of the same diameter is then selected (for a “B” treenail type in this case*) except the head of it which is a few inches bigger; the length of the treenail should be one foot more than the hole drilled. The treenail is spread with lard and is introduce (2) with a hammer. When we reach to the head where the diameter is slightly more, we need to hammer strongly, that’s why the head is reinforced with spunyarn rope, this avoids the treenail to split. When it has been introduced to the maximum and it extends on the inner side, both heads are trimmed to the face of the planks (3) then a treenail wedge or spile is force in both sides of the treenail (4-5-6) so no free movement is allowed.
 
The sketches of the “blind treenails” talk by themselves so I am not going to translate the text of the same period.
 
 

 
Beautyful work and posts like always.
 
 
Daniel.

Glad to see you back!
 
 I got hooked on MSW thanks to your Bellona like two years ago when I was attempting to build it out of the AOS book.
 
Regards.
 
Daniel.

Hi everyone!


I think this might be the shortest post I
put on. I am just happy to been accomplished at least two of the filling
transoms #4 & #3.  I have repeated
four times #4 and twice #3. Fingers cross.


My intention is to put some kind of rising
keelson fronting the inner post and the five transoms. It´s my intention,
another thing is if I will be able to do so with the tools I have right now.


The pics show how I fail treating to finish
the FT#3 by itself. I founded that sanding and chiseling it before been cut
from the whole piece of wood was easier. The piece is quiet weak. I have also
bevel a little bit the inner post to “receive” the filling transoms.


 


Daniel.


 

Side counter timbers are fun!
Starting with an oversized piece, made of two pieces each:

 
After cutting and sanding:

 

 
Installed, with a really oversized wing-like timbers:

 

 
Now need to cut them to shape right on the hull, fair and add some nice spacers

Installed "hawse timbers". There were three options
1) Install a filler piece. Meh!
2) Build hawse timbers as they should be, as TFFM describes it. Opened the chapter about it, realised I also need bollard timbers. And I was supposed to do that without any drawings and patterns, because Hahn omits that detail as non-important
Also, it will look weird - tightly spaced timbers at the bow, and evenly spaced simplified framing at the rest of the hull.
So - next time, next model
 
So I decided to go with option #3 - install one more frame that will look like a cant frame, and will follow the style of other frames.
 
Since there are no drawings for that, started with template. Used that mushy extra-soft basswood that is supplied with Longboat kit - it is better than cardboard for that purpose, and shapes easily with any tools.
Ended up with this beefy template:
 

 

 
After lots of fitting and fine tuning, resulting hawse timber / extra cant frame ended up installed:
 

 

 
Now making a side counter timbers. They would be built in TFFM way, because I do not like the way Hahn suggests to make it - with counter timbers installed 90 degrees to the ground, instead of following the curve of the hull.

Huh, really?
 
Going to do it this way (thanks Toni for a very clear photo in her Atlanta build log!)

A small progress: keelson formed by three parts, with ebony nails.
 
 

Hi Karl, With your permission, I put the link to your photos:
 
link
 
Excellent and detailed work!

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 143 – Monkey Rail 1
 
The two surviving pictures of Young America again provided the basis for the brass rail design used on the model.  The rail is just discernable in the picture taken from the starboard quarter.  From this it is clear that it was not of heavy or ornamental wood construction and equally clear – at least to me and I am happy to say, Bill Crothers – that it was a single, slim rail.  By the way, it is also very clear from this picture that the poop deck is at the height of the main rail and not a few feet below as shown on some models – including the builder’s half model in the Smithsonian.  Either that, or the people standing on the deck were on well-hidden stilts.  I suspect that the need to have good height in the aft cabin area led to this feature being incorporated before actual construction, perhaps by the owners.  Anyway, based on the picture and Bill Crothers’ interpretation, I elected to incorporate a single brass rail about 3 feet above the deck supported by cylindrical brass stanchions.  These have a ball-shaped top to pass the rail, and flanges at the base that rest on the main rail.
 
The first picture shows the method used to cut both the top fittings and the lower flanges.
 

 
The cutting guide used on the skid beam stanchion flanges was used for this.  The picture actually shows one of the 2” thick flanges being cut off.  The tops were cut in 3” sections using the hole covered by the saw.  The next picture shows top pieces and stanchions almost ready to be soldered together.
 

 
The next picture shows the first step of the assembly with the tops silver soldered to the posts.
 

 
The soldering unfortunately softens the wire somewhat so straightening is required – initially and whenever I lean on the finished rail – a habit I am diligently trying to correct. The tops were then rounded off and polished in the lathe with files as shown below.
 

 
The next picture shows the addition of the lower flanges.
 

 
The wood guide was used to ensure uniform height to the posts – and of course the rail.  After setting the flanges at the correct height, these were soldered on.  The next picture shows the final finishing and polishing of one of the stanchions.
 

 
Chucking the complete stanchion assembly in this step was the reason for the excess length in the initial pieces.  After filing a fillet on the top of the flange and removing all traces of solder and scale, fine abrasive polishing sticks were used to bring up the luster of the brass.
 
Some special stanchion pieces were required and two types are shown in the next picture.
 

 
The stanchion at the top has two top fittings set at right angles.  These will be set at the head of the steps to the main deck to support both the athwartship rail sections on the breast beam and also the stair rails.  The lower piece was shown earlier in position at the stern.  I do not know the purpose of this higher section, but it serves as a convenient start point for installing the rails, as will be seen in the next post.
 
Ed

Another photos 
 

 

 

 

 

So onto the actual work. After a lot of test cuts I secured my keel as follows
with a piece underneath and two on either side (to allow the drill close access otherwise
the vice jaws would interfere).
 

 
The drilling pattern was as follows
 
Centralise on left joint and upper false keel.
 
Move up 1.42 mm
Move right 6.41mm
Drill the first hole
Reset the mill to Zero.
Move right 6.41mm
Drill
Move right to 9.22mm
Drill
Move left to 0 and keep going slightly so I move over
the first hole and then back onto it (to sort out the mill backtrack)
Test hole location
Move up 1.42mm
Drill
Move right 4.61mm
Drill
Move right to 9.22mm
Drill
 
Rinse and repeat for all the holes.
 

 
I am happy with the results which I feel can be improved on for more visible joints
later on. One fortunate fact of the early keel work is that most of it (and the frames) will
be hidden so practice can be perfected before hitting stuff that can be seen.
 
Anyhow. Once I was happy with the joints it was time to add the copper wire.
 

 
These were inserted in one way with glue, removed, glue removed from the wood and then inserted
in the other. I may have to find a better way as glue still managed to escape so a better
process will be needed later. 
 
Once glues the copper was then snipped low (note the glue that still got out)
 
 

 
before one side was carefully filed to close to flat.
 

 
I then used a quick jig to tidy up. I chiseled a small square out of a flat piece of wood (the size
of the joint and bolts) and the placed the joint I was working on over this hole. Two pieces of the
same size as the keel then surrounded my keel and were secured. If my filing then became to aggressive or
off center then the surrounding pieces would get damaged and the keel should be okay.
 
Results were 'shiny'.
 

 
Next up I have to decide whether to 
 
A - Add the deadwood where I can
B - Add the lower stem (and equivelant rear) then taper the keel and stem and rear
C - Add the lower and upper stem (and so on) and THEN taper the keel.
 
All I am certain is that I dont want to cut the rabbett until the deadwood is on but the deadwood needs
the lower stem at least which would argue for B.  But lots of people seem to do the entire stem and then
taper....Not at all certain so any advice would be welcome.
 
Thanks for reading.
 

Time for another quick update. I have been working on the boxing joint and after several rather abortive attempts finally found a process a 'liked' that produced a piece I 'liked'. Some people have the talent (or practiced enough) to produce beautiful joints using just hand tools. This is not me. Instead I have to use various power tools mainly for their unbeleiveable ability to keep things at 90 degrees to each other.
 
Anyway for what it is worth here is the procedure I eventually followed (some of the photos are actually of earlier pieces)
 
1 -First up I started with a larger blank than normal to give plenty of 'fat' and then re-cut the long end and the short end on the table saw. I then marked those sides so I knew which were 'true'.
 
2 - Next I pasted the paper onto the true edge making certain I left plenty of space at both ends.
 
3 -The next cut was a parrallel cut for the upper side of the keel piece using the table saw. I found this easier earlier when I had more meat to work with. As the piece gets thinner the table saw gets a lot more fiddly and dangerous to use.. Also keep well away from the actual end of the straight line.
 

 
4 - Next up I cut the majority of the upper curve on the scroll allowing an upper section to be removed
 
5 - I then cut the forward diagonal edge with the scroll saw but not across the entire length of wood. I initially did this step after milling but found it far more difficult to get the angle at the correct angle and position. Here I used a blank to cut the angle then compared that to the pattern before putting the keel piece itself to the saw. 
 
6 - Now it is safe to mill. Initially I cut to a test depth and on some spare wood (on the keel piece) so I could check the measurements.
 

 
7 - Allowing the depth is correct milling with an end mill can now be carried out. This has the superlative advantage of keeping the cut face at right angles. The piece is also easily secured on the 'dead' ends allowing safety without marking the wood of the piece itself.
 

 
The end result was left relatively rough
 

 
(Note the above was a test piece before I cut the diagonal joint - from this you can see how difficult it would be getting that cut in the correct location)
 
8 - Now the forward vertical cut can be made with the table saw and then the rear vertical cut making the piece about the correct size.
 

 
9 - At this point the pattern still remained and I now tidied the mill section with a chisel
 

 
10 - Once seemingly correct it was then placed onto of another printed pattern to test for unusual edges
 

 
11 - If still happy then the pattern was removed. At this point I really wanted to see the various joints at the correct angles and no extra future work with the horizontal sections not being horizontal.
 

 
12 - Height was now compared to the remained of the keel and was adjusted slightly by the disc sander and then with the piece upside down on sand paper for the section close to the curve (as the disc sander introduced a small step).
 
13 - Finally the scarph joint to the rest of the keel was cut.
 

 
Now I fully expect further tidying up to be required when the mating piece is introduced but with the several earlier versions featuring various minor problems this rather regimented approach seemed to work for me.
 
Next up the false keel will be going on and after that bolting the keel together.. Thanks for reading.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

When using pigments to darken glue, I have found that very little is needed to produce dark glue when dry.  I use about a teaspoon or two to a full six (or is it 8) ounce bottle of Titebond wood glue.  I also found that slurrying the pigment in some watered down glue first - until it is completely syrupey - before mixing with the rest of the glue - improves the result including stronger joints.  I believe this method helps encapsulate the pigment particles in glue and helps with cleanup.  Of course, if alcohol is used to soften a joint later, the glue will disslove and release the free pigment.
 
Ed

Ended up with the pigmented glue again but without the masking tape (it suddenly struck me that the masking tape would prevent the keel from being straight and introduce tiny diagonals).  I found as long as I left enough width to thickness the end result then all appeared well.
 

 
Here you can see the tidied 'top' of the keel and the not so tidied side. I will be thicknessing the sides to size after the false keel is attached mainly because that will also introduce lots of extra staining.
 
My rather unexciting approach is to squidge a small amount of glue into a tam jar lid and then use a chisel to add a small amount of pigment (the chisel is easy to clean). It is then mixed in with some scrap wood until it gets a disgusting texture (and fairly repulsive smell all things considered).
 

 
This is then smeared onto both sides of the joint before attaching. With glue I find the key points are
 
Have a well jointed surfaces Secure the joint so it does not move whilst gluing though this does not mean excessive force Leave well alone for the entire setting period (in this case 24 hours) If surfaces smooth rough them up a bit (for wood less important due to woods structure) Don't glue multiples at once. This last stops the first two breaking as adding another piece risks subtly adjusting the initial glued piece and this weakening the joint.  
So for this I have used two large clamps to secure a metal straight edge to some scrap but smoothed walnut. This provides two flat surfaces. The keel is then pushed against the ruler and secured with lots of little clamps and then left alone.
 
The above all appeared to work well and the next step is the false keel. I hit a marginally quandary here as all my helper books seemed to disagree with various things
 
The Naiad had a depth that matched Steel but used five false keel pieces where Steel states seven
The Euryalus had a depth that matched my plans but also used five keel pieces
The Swan books depth was not relevant as it was a different class and neither was the count for the same reason.
 
The depth was not a major problem as I always take the plans when Steel or the class Progress book disagree so slightly under 7 inches is what I am looking for plus the Euryalus provides reinforcement that other similar ships also used similar false keel sizes (I wonder if they expected extra leeway in these ships due to the finer hull shape so compensated by a slightly larger false keel). The amount of pieces was more problematic. In the end I decided to follow Steel. Most of the design books state that the False Keel is designed to fall off in pieces to protect the main keel from grounding (and the like). It seems sensible to have more pieces than fewer as otherwise larger sections of the keel could be exposed.
 
It does not really matter of course but that is in the end what I have decided on.
 
Joints for the keel were made on the disc sander which coped easily enough with the challenge and I have just started gluing it on using my many little clamps. For this I am ensuring one side is aligned with the keel and the other can poke out. This is because I will be thicknessing the results so need a flat side to keep everything square.
 

 
 
 

And wait and wait while glacial progress occurs.
 
Speaking of glacial progress it is probably about time for an update with dodgy photos.
 
I have started on the keel initially by trying out two woods for ease of use and appearance – European Pear and American Cherry. The Pear was easier to ‘work’ but the Cherry looked nicer so the Cherry ‘won’. Once this was decided I then produced lots of blanks to do some practice joints.
 
When happy with an approximate joint methodology I created yet more 6 inch blanks by cutting on the table saw and then thicknessing to around 0.75 mm larger than required before testing them for straightness.
 

 
For the joint I decided to go for the more traditional diagonal scarph and took the following approach.
 
First up I marked the joint angle on the initial piece and cut it out. I then used this to mark the wood to remove on the next piece.
 

 
(Obviously not at the indication above which would be a minuscule keel section..)
 
I then cut out the shoulder with two to three scroll saw cuts to get a slightly larger ‘gap’
 

 
Then the joint was worked down on my lovely Byrnes disk sander (which had come miraculously to life after I used the highly unscientific approach of pulling grumpily all the wires attached to the capacitor in a successful way to stop it behaving like an arthritic hamster after two years in the loft) almost to the line.
 
 
This was then matches to the previous piece to ensure the ‘angle’ was correct. I could then stop or adjust further on the sander.
 

 
If unhappy then I could use the extra length in the 6 inch blanks to shift the joint slightly and start again.
 
If happy then I would use a chisel to flatten the area around the shoulder usually by following the flat section of the joint first.
 

 
Then finally the joint was tested against a flat surface with my table saw base being the obvious star here.
 

 
So I now have a ‘1st team’ of keel pieces that still might get relegated to ‘2nd team practice squad’ dependant on the results of my next (and current) task.
 
I have just attempted three practice joints using
 
A -  Black pigment in glue
B – Black pigment in glue but with the exterior wood protected (hohoho) by masking tape
C – Black paint in glue
 
I don’t particularly want to forstall the obvious excitement in awaiting the results but it does look to me that the ‘squelch’ from the joints has still managed to stain the surrounding wood. My sterling efforts to wipe it clean just appeared to spread the stain over a wider area.
 
Anyway I do still want to see what joint strength is like and then how much mess remains and how easy it is to remove. If it is hard to remove then I may either re-start with thicker blanks better able to withstand the tidy up operation or perhaps try dark paper.
 
So my final question is any advice on the best paper type to try and or tips on coloured glue usage which keeps the other wood clean(er)..
 
Thanks for reading.

It has taken several years!... but I am finally ready to start on my first major scratch build project. For those who have forgotten this will be a 1:64 scale model of HBM Amphion a 36 gun English frigate from the Napoleonic Wars.
 
Plans and general research has existed up to this point in this topic here
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/259-hbms-amphion-1798-32-gun-18pdr-frigate/
 
Which I thought I would leave in place as opposed to copying over. Any historical gumpf can then go there allowing this to be more build orientated.
 
 
Before starting this project I have decided to set myself some ground rules (following the eminently copyable example of   Ed  from whose book  much of the the following list is 'adjusted')
 
Measure twice then cut once - often easier said than done for me this will usually mean thinking closely about what I am trying to do before doing it. Use the correct tool for the job - Thankfully I have built up a wide range of tools that should make this easier. Keep tools sharp including marking pencils - My habit of grabbing any old pencil must be resisted Clean up immediately - Ed refers to glue and if a modeller of his standard needs to react to glue then I shall have extra work on my hands Dry fit pieces first - seems logical. Don't use test pieces as actual pieces. As an addition to this to actually make test pieces as oppose to using the test piece as the completed erm piece. Mark and indent hole locations before drilling - use templates to reduce hole 'movement' as the eye can often lie When fatigue sets in then stop work - Resist the temptation to 'get something done' - it can always wait especially if something else has just been successfully completed. I tend to rush and put myself under time pressure which then lowers quality. Step away from the model if stressed - If I get to a difficult section then don't run myself into the ground but do something else for a few days and then return in a calmer frame of mind Keep quality consistent - If a piece is not good enough then start again. I am no zealot as far as accuracy (or have not been in the past) this model is requiring a considerably larger portion of my life so I want to increase my standards of operation. Reference other modellers when trouble beckons - this might seem a misnomer to most modellers but historically I have preferred to work stuff out myself rather than use MSW or other sites/books to research. AS with the previous point this model deserves better so if something fails to work at first try check the many excellent resources out there. In reality this will usually be ModelShipWorld forums and the recent spate of excellent books including Ed's HMS Naiad, David Antscherl's Swan Class Series and Allan Yedlinsky's HMS Euryalus  
 
That will do for a start. I expect fairly heavy re-work to occur - especially on the plans but we shall cross those bridges when we come to them.
 
This initial post shall be a somewhat boring one as I have only just completed my building board. For this I decided to copy the Swan Class building board (adjusted to my larger ships size) which has the virtue of being the simplest. I used thick melanin board with beech (I think , it was marked beech but who knows..) runners. My initial attempt to draw the center line was horrifically not crowned with success as though straight it was not level to the sides so I redid it and now have an amusing double fanning line at one end so have to make certain I don't utilise the wrong one.
 

 
Next up I had to place my 'fish' plan on it. After some hassles working out how to get turbo cad to print to size and not adjust the size (I added several L shaped lines to the plans with each line measuring exactly 64 inches thus if scales properly in the printer they should be exactly 1 inch when printed. This was very useful) . For attaching the plans I initially followed the 'Swan' advice to use artists spray (it not being water based) but this was not an unalloyed success possibly because my paper was too thin and it looked rather blotchy plus having had reinforced the center line with red ink several blood like blotches also appeared. Now I fully expect the build to draw blood at some point but can do without bad omens before I have started.
 
After reflecting a bit I decided to take a different approach. I re-printed the plans and re-checked the scale before laminating them (and re-checking the scale post lamination). I then sliced the ends of with a hard edge and a scalpel and glued that to the board with standard glue. The lamination is sturdy enough to resist any depredations from the glue and it has the further advantage of being a cleanable surface. The only thing I will have to be aware of going forward is to ensure that any vertical measurements need to take into account the extra thickness whether on or off the lamination.
 

 
 
Next job is to decide which wood to use for the keel and innards. I have some samples which I plan on practicing the keel joints with and will decide on appearance and ease of use once I have practiced. Past experience tells me it may now be months before I am happy with the result so don't expect particularly quick updates...

]Hi friends.
Construction of the rudder blade.
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  8

Cherry boards - resawn and planed down to roughly 1/4" thick. My first build went awry when I scanned my drawings and then printed them out to use as templates. I did spend some time checking for scanner distortion and initially everything checked out. However, going back over the maple version I could see where things were slightly over size. So, in Version 2 I transferred the required profiles directly to the wood using drafting vellum and spray adhesive. I cut out each piece on my scroll saw leaving a slightly over size edge for later fairing.

Hello,
 
thanks for the nice compliments.   Here is the continuation from boat building:

 

 

Hello,
 
thank you so much for your complements. At the moment I'm working at the show case and that could take a little time.
 
Yesterday was the great clean up. I had the great advantage that the ship is open to the front, but how did you doe that with a complete ship? There was a lot of dust at all decks 
 

 
I don't really know what comes next at the shipyard. I thought that I would build the captains barge next winter, but before I start I have to spy at druxey's blog how to do it 
 
Regards,
Siggi

Thank you, thank you, thank you 
 
now also the cranes are ready and with them the ship   I have the ship ready, I can't believe it. After four years of building! 
 

 
To say something more about the cranes. The only information about them I found in Goodwin's: Construction and fitting...at page 211. Here he says, that the cranes where introduced for all in 1746 and where covered with a tarred canvas screen. After 1770 where the nettings introduced. So no in my time.
 
 
Building models with a water surface I did before. The first was the Cutty Sark from Revell, I build in 1984.
 

 
and a second, the Alert after a plan from Lisci I build in 1989. That was my last ( but not first scratch build) model I build.
 

 

 
Regards,
Siggi
 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 138 – Bilge Pumps 2
 
The next task on the pumps was to make the crankshaft/connecting rod assembly shown in the last picture in the last posting.  This included the central supporting bearing pillar shown in that picture.  That part was made first - as a tapered pier with vertical gusset supports in an X pattern.  This provided an opportunity to use one of my new Christmas toys shown in the next few pictures.
 
In the first picture one of the side gusset plates is being silver soldered to the main central plate. 
 

 
The parts are firmly held in place by the two articulating clamps that are mounted on either side of a rotating ceramic base.  The clamp arms each have a pair of ball joints that can be tightened to hold the clamps very securely in any position.  The clamp rods are tungsten, so there is no problem with heat.  Also the stout handles do not heat up, so pieces can be unclamped immediately without risk of burns and the clamp springs are protected from overheating.  For someone like me, with my shaky hands, this tool is a godsend – and just in time for the plethora of metalwork coming up.  The torch is just a miniature propane torch.  Oxy flame temperatures are unnecessary for most of this work.  The next picture shows the pier subassembly held down on its baseplate for the next soldering step.
 

 
Because these assemblies will be blackened, I used Phosphorus-Copper prefluxed solder paste, which seems to blacken easier.  It has a melting point of 1325 degrees F – about the same as medium (65%) silver solder.
 
In the next picture one of the connecting rods is being shaped after drilling of the bearing hole in a small piece of brass plate.
 

 
The connecting rods were then fitted with undersize “pistons” at their bottom ends.  These fit very loosely in the pump cylinders to allow easy rotation.  I did not attempt an authentic fit with these.  
 
There are three pillow block bearings (sometimes called rhodings) that hold the crankshaft – one in the center and one mounted on each fore and aft fife rail.  These were made by slicing off individual bearings from the soldered strip shown ready for the torch in the next picture.
 

 
The bearings are provided by the hole in the brass tube.
 
 The crankshaft was formed from a length of .032” (2.5”) brass rod.  The connecting rods and center pillar bearing had to be fitted to this before bending.  In the next picture the crankshaft assembly is being test fitted to ensure unobstructed rotation.  
 

 
The side bearings are clamped to the fife rails for this.  I was very glad at this point that I did not opt for closer fitting pistons.  In the last two pictures the crank assembly has been blackened and permanently installed.
 

 

 
The central pillar and the two side bearings were cemented in place with thin CA.  So far so good.  Now it was time to make the two delicately shaped flywheels that I hope will be the eye-attracting features of the pumps.
 
Ed
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 137 – Bilge Pumps 1
 
You may recall from an early post that suction pipes were installed from the limber channel at the garboard strake up to the main deck just aft of the main mast.  There, the two pipes were terminated at an iron plate on the deck.  Unlike earlier chain pumps that could only pick up water from above the floor frames, reciprocating suction pumps that came into use in the md 19th century could lower their intakes to the underside of the floor frames. This was discussed in earlier posts.  The first step in constructing the pumps was to make the two cast iron casings.  The completed casings are shown mounted in the first picture.
 

 
Casings typical of the times – these being only typical of the type and not based on a specific specification – usually consisted of a cylinder to house the piston and a second chamber or reservoir to collect the water and discharge it from the pump.  The integral assembly was cast iron.  There were two options that I considered for making these.  They could be machined from a block or they could be fabricated.  I chose the latter approach, using telescoping brass tubes.  The first fabrication step is shown below.
 

 
The main cylinder consists of a brass tube and the secondary reservoir is made from a similar tube that has had a portion sliced off on the circular saw.  In the picture the two pieces are shown ready to be soldered together.  The next picture shows steps after soldering the two tubes shown above.
 

 
The soldered pieces were first cut to final height.  Rectangular shapes were then soldered top and bottom.  The assembly on the right, shown upside down, has had its flanged discharge pipe installed the top rectangle shaped and drilled as shown to be open at the top.  The next picture shows the first soldering step with the cylinder assembly held in place on the top plate for soldering.
 

 
The device and surface shown in this picture is a new tool acquisition that I will discuss in a later post.  After the top plate was soldered on, the two top holes were drilled as shown in the next picture.
 

 
After drilling through from the bottom and soldering on the bottom plate, that plate was then drilled to fit a spigot that would fit into the suction pipes at deck level.
 

 
In the above picture the top figure eight flange has been roughly shaped.  The two finished casings are shown in the next picture prior to final pickling and blackening.
 

 
Also shown in this picture is the piston/crankshaft assembly.  A supporting iron standard with a mounted bearing is shown at the center of the shaft.  Work on this assembly will be covered in the next part.
 
Ed

Thanks, everyone for the comments, likes and questions.
 
Crackers, if being professional means earning money, you've got the wrong guy.
 
Harvey, redoing things may be part of the craft.  After seeing Remco's Kingfisher wheel, I am entertaining similar thoughts.
 
E&T, I could write a whole book about my frustrations trying to make metal black.  The only way I have had consistent success is to use copper and blacken it with liver of sulfur.  I have had little problem with that.  Brass has been another matter, beginning with cannons I made in the 1970's.  Silver soldered joints have been the major problem - either getting them black to begin with or watching white by-products emerge later.  I suspected our hard water, but using distilled water didn't make much difference.  Pickling is of course essential.  I now boil all parts in white vinegar then degrease them before blackening in a dilute solution, either WinOx, Hobby Black, or Birchwood Casey Brass Black (I switch when I get frustrated.)  WinOx can be used, like liver of sulfur, next to wood without staining.  That does not answer your question, but is background.  On the pawl baseplate I used copper-phosphorus silver solder paste from Contenti.  I believe it is in the midrange of silver solder melt temperatures. It works well on copper with LOS and can be used on brass.  One aid in blackening is to use very tiny amounts of solder.  That is where the solder/paste syringe comes in handy, but I usually squeeze some out and apply it to the joint with a toothpick.  In spite of all this I cannot boast of consistent results and sometimes, not very often, revert to the old standby, Rustoleum flat black.
 
David, I believe Mark answered your question on liver of sulfur.  Also, note that the paste I refer to is not just flux, but a combination of flux and silver solder types.
 
Thanks, again everyone.  I hope to have the first post on the blackened brass bilge pumps up shortly and that may provide further fodder to the blackening discussion - and maybe some helpful responses.
 
Ed

Ok I'll post a few teaser pics. So the first one doesn't involve shipbuilding at all. It is a carving that I did late last year. The carving is done in cherry. In doing this carving I found I really liked how it carved and really liked the figure and finish of the wood. The carving is on the lid of a humidor that is sitting on my workbench. It's pretty much what convinced me that I'd rather have such a fine model in Cherry rather than Maple.
 
The rest of the pictures are of the stern. I am doing some rough shaping and contouring on these pieces. I have included a couple pictures with the original maple stern alongside the version 2 Cherry stern. Hopefully you can get an idea of the difference in wood figure from these. I'll have to work better lighting for photos in the future.