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harvey1847 reacted to EdT in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - 1:96 - POB - extreme clipper
Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 3 – Erecting Bulkhead Assemblies
In the full-framed version of the model, frames were plumbed then clamped in place using small wood spacer blocks or later, using ribbands at the planksheer. For this model the bulkheads are glued to their neighbors using wood spacers. The method is basically the same but requires a different clamping method. The first picture shows the device used to clamp the bulkheads for gluing.
The two plywood rectangles fit loosely over the central spine. They are drilled at the same level as the holes shown earlier in each bulkhead. A long, loose-fitting threaded rod is used to tighten the glue joints as each new bulkhead is added and aligned. The next picture shows bulkhead 2 being glued.
The squares are used to align the frame to the maximum breadth line on the shipway plan. The nut on the threaded rod is then tightened to secure the glued joint. The next picture shows more bulkheads added - one at a time.
And so on.
In the above picture the fairness of the deck “beams” is being checked with the metal rule. If the notches over the spine are cut carefully, the line should be precisely fair.
The next picture is a close up of some bulkheads showing the excess spacer material that will need to be removed later.
Note that the station lines on the shipway plan align with the plywood bulkhead at its maximum breadth. When the hull is faired by removing the excess and smoothing the line to over the plywood sections, the hull shape will be precise.
The last picture shows the framing of the forebody almost complete.
Note in this picture that the midship frame and another forward of that are held in alignment throughout this process by squares clamped to the shipway. This prevents the hull shape from twisting as frames are added.
While building up to this point, a number of special attachments were made on some of the bulkheads for mast steps, reinforcements and hold down bolts. I will show some of these in the next part.
Ed
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harvey1847 reacted to rwiederrich in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - 1:96 - POB - extreme clipper
Fantastic Ed. It was always a mystery to me how the actual ship builders aligned their ribs so accurately.
Images look good but how it got that way is the marvel.
Great job..sir.
Rob
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harvey1847 reacted to EdT in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - 1:96 - POB - extreme clipper
Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 2
In the last part, spacers were shown being glued to the midship bulkhead. The spacers were cut from ¾” thick pine, ripped to a width equal to the distance between stations (even numbered/lettered frame lines) and the 9” plywood thickness. These were then glued to the bulkheads in an arrangement as shown in the first picture – to provide a continuous hull surface for later planking.
The spacers in this picture were cut to a width of 55” – marked on one of the loose pieces. Station spacing in this area is 64”. Subtracting the 9” plywood thickness leaves 55”. As mentioned before, 9” plywood was used because that is the siding of the integral toptimbers.
The excess spacer material was removed by cutting along the bulkhead as shown below.
This was then trimmed right to the line using a disk sander.
The thickness of the glued assembly was then measured and if necessary adjusted and/or leveled by sanding as shown below.
In this picture the midship bulkhead assembly is being sanded. It has spacers on both sides. The spacers are always sized at the broader of the two adjoining bulkheads, so bulkheads fore and aft of this one are smaller. All other bulkheads have spacers on only one side – the forward side on those forward of midship and the aft side on those aft of midship. Trimming the second bulkhead on this frame is shown in the next picture.
The next picture shows the finished midship bulkhead trimmed to size with its adjacent partner – both ready to be erected.
In the next picture the midship bulkhead is being erected on the spine.
The alignment methods are virtually identical to those used on the fully-framed version – squares set at the maximum breadth line on both sides and additional squares to hold it vertical and on the station line. The only glue joint here is between the plywood and the spine. Additional bulkheads will add the strength as they are installed.
This is very similar to the alignment of real frames at the original shipyards. Using this method on these simple assemblies is a step toward erecting authentic model frames on more advanced models. This was one of the purposes behind this process – and the entire bulkhead model.
Erection of additional frames will be described in the next parts.
Ed
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harvey1847 reacted to EdT in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - 1:96 - POB - extreme clipper
Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 1
The 1:72 framed model of Young America will be on semi-hold for the next month or so, while I do further research and prepare drawings for the remaining work to complete the model. Since I have been working in parallel on a smaller 1:96 POB version of Young America, I decided to include some of that work in a separate build log. I do not yet know how far I will take this model. It has been built as a demonstration model for Volume I of the Young America book, which includes substantial information – text, pictures, drawings, patterns - for building this smaller, simpler model. I included this to address interests of beginning scratch builders and/or those not wanting to build the fully framed version.
In developing methods for constructing this model, I wanted to think of this as a stairway on the learning curve to upright, framed modeling, like that used on Naiad, YA, Alfred, the popular Swan Class types, and others featured on this site. Although the hull framing for the POB model is much simpler, the methods described for setting and aligning bulkheads are very similar to those used on the larger framed version – and like those used in the real shipyards. These methods differ somewhat from common forms of POB modeling. I hope this different approach will be of value to some modelers. Like my other build logs, this will be an overview of progress and general description of methods - not a detailed tutorial. I leave that to the book.
So, with that introduction, I will start with some preparations. The first picture shows the model shipway constructed for the POB model – next to the larger version.
This photo was taken last November, shortly after deciding to incorporate a POB version in the book. The shipway is much simpler – no T-tracks and made from a melamine coated particle board shelf. The shipway plan is also simpler and geared to setting bulkheads instead of square, half and cant frames.
The next picture shows the “spine” on which the bulkhead assemblies will be set. Stud bolts are being installed that will attach it to the shipway and later serve as hold-down bolts.
The spine is not a keel and does not replace the keel. A fully detailed keel assembly will be fit under this later. This is merely a device on which to align bulkheads. It is thick enough for that purpose and initially extends well beyond the hull.
The next picture shows the spine bolted down and the studs trimmed to size.
The picture also shows simple, homemade squares that can be clamped to the shipway as shown.
The next picture shows the midship bulkhead set on the spine.
The bulkhead is cut from 3/32”, aircraft grade plywood, from the pattern shown. The pattern is an early version – note the pasted-on ID. Other detail was later added to the final patterns. The bulkhead includes the toptimbers. These were sided 9” (3/32” at 1:96). The high quality plywood will allow these to be finish sanded and painted, eliminating the need for separate toptimbers.
Pine spacers, cut from ¾” stock, provide the primary strength in the hull assembly. These are cut to widths that match the spacing between bulkheads. In the next picture two of these are being fitted to the midship bulkhead.
Most frames have four of these that fill the space between the plywood bulkheads. When faired to the outsides of the bulkheads, the spacers will provide a smooth, flat planking surface as well as great strength to the assembly. More on these spacers in the next part.
Ed
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harvey1847 reacted to Alex M in HMS Sphynx 1775 by Alex M - Scale 1/48 - English 20-Gun Frigate
Hello all here!
I'm glad our World is back! So I start here my build log for HMS Sphynx. In the past life (I mean old MSW...) I have some images added to gallery, so I will post them all here in chronological order with some descriptions.
The Sphynx was 20 gun ship designed by J. Williams, and was smallest 6th rate frigate. She was built in 1775 at Portsmouth, Hampshire and broken ap in 1811. The Sphynx-class is also the last class of small frigates with 9 pdr. There are 10 further ships builded:
Camilia, Chathan Dyd, 20.4.1776-1809
Daphne, Woolwich Dyd., 21.3.1776-1802
Galatea, Deptford Dyd., 23.3.1776-1783
Ariadne, Chatham Dyd., 27.12.1776-1814
Vestal, Plymonth Dyd., 23.35.1777-1777
Perseus, Randall, Rothehille, 20.3.1776-1805, 1798 convertet to a bomb vessel
Unicorn, Randall, Rothehille, 23.3.1776-1787
Ariel, Perry & Co., Blackwall, 7.7.1777-1779
Narcissus Plymonth Dyd., 9.5.1781-1796
For this project I have ordered the original plans from NMM, and I have decided to redraw the plans for model building. For decorative work and also some other details I have ordered the pictures from "Science and Society Picture Library" http://www.scienceandsociety.co.uk/results.asp?image=10325356 . For dimensions of all hull details I have used the Establishment lists, and Steels "The Elements of masting and Rigging" for mast, yards and standing rigging. The running rigging and sailing plan also arrive later.
The result looks at time thus: http://zope.mein-media.de/meinmedia/plans/index.html
In February 2006 the plans were ready, at least so far that I have begun with the building of the model. Parallel and in addition I have done further research, and the plans are further worked out.
Now the images of beginning:
The main wales are cut according to plan, and glued on. Then waterway, spirketing and part of planking abowe main wales are added.
The model was then put keel over, and underwater planking begins.
Best regards
Alexander
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harvey1847 reacted to Alex M in HMS Sphynx 1775 by Alex M - Scale 1/48 - English 20-Gun Frigate
Hello,
next update: the lower capstan. I cut a notch in to inner edge of whelps and then filed the edge to pass them to the barrel. The images show the process explanably I hope...
The "metal" is black paper
Regards
Alex
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harvey1847 reacted to Alex M in HMS Sphynx 1775 by Alex M - Scale 1/48 - English 20-Gun Frigate
Hello,
the work continues with the gratings and coamings of the quarter deck, and ladder way to gun deck. In this case the gratings should look like "real" and have proper thickness and shape. Follow images show the process. First the upper edge of the block was shaped on this jig:
then cuts are done on tablesaw:
then strips are glued and the whole was sanded again in the jig:
Coamings are build around gratings, ladder way and coaming added:
All is dry fitted now.
Alex
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harvey1847 reacted to Alex M in HMS Sphynx 1775 by Alex M - Scale 1/48 - English 20-Gun Frigate
Hello,
a litle bit of progress, the work go on:
Soft soldered from 0,1mm brass:
Alex
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harvey1847 reacted to Alex M in HMS Sphynx 1775 by Alex M - Scale 1/48 - English 20-Gun Frigate
Hello,
not a big update, but some images: building of fire hearth. Some mix of soft solder and CA glue, brass sheets 0,3 mm and 0,1 mm thickness. Images show the prcess:
Alex
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harvey1847 got a reaction from Archi in HMS Guadeloupe by jack.aubrey - 1:48 scale - ex French Le Nisus - Brick de 24
thanks Jack!
That explain all. I thought it was a device that actually copy a bulkhead from a pre-existing form or pattern like in real life the carpenters copy figure heads with a special tool join with the mill... All clear now!
This is not a figure head of course but I saw one of them in the restoration of a church years ago.
Thanks,
Daniel.
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harvey1847 got a reaction from wangshuoliurui in HMS Triton 1773. POF. 1:48. Daniel
Hello All!
A big and small update...
I am working with the interior of the hold to trying to move on '¡?... Trying to finish all the breast hooks and the masts steps.
I got a question, Does the mizzen mast rest on the keel or on the lower deck? on two huge carlings? # 3 - 4 counting from the stern to the stem. (see the pdf)
Anyway, I have started to cut all the frames and I have made a hand saw out of a square piece of wood (15x15mm) and then cast the whole thing with resin. It´s pretty useful, not fancy but it works.
I have attached lots of pics just to remind me where I have to cut more or less. Like a "diary". Also I have attached the pdf I made on its day to meassure all the dots from the wale to the top rail.
the pdf...
keel_frames_decks_PS_100.pdf
Best wishes!
Daniel.
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harvey1847 reacted to LFrankCPA in HMS Alfred by LFrankCPA - 1:64 - 74-gun ship - Hahn Method
About Me;
I have been modeling for over 30 years. My other hobby is HO model railroading. At time when I had the space, I was into railroading, when I did not have the space, I built ships.
This is my second non-kit built ship; actually the second iteration of this ship. The first attempt was not good; so I started over. This time is much better.
I am disabled; I have no legs. The first was amputated several years ago and the second, a couple of weeks after the first. I tell you this, not for any other reason, other than to let you know I do things differently. Mostly as a result of my disability. For instance, I do not use power tools, except the occasional Dremel.
I live alone and am housebound; I have been told that my social skills have been slipping lately. I guess I would rather model than talk; please don't take this personally.
About my Ship;
She is a work of art; and as such, I will construct her in the most pleasing way possible. Of secondary importance is the historical accuracy; firstly the Hahn plans and timbering set and secondly other reference materials at my disposal. I have a substantial personal library and, of course, access to this site and other internet locations.
She is and will be all natural; no paints or stains.
She is built by hand, every piece cut, shaped, and glued by me by hand. I purchase slab wood to the thickness needed, cut it slightly proud, and plane it to final size. The only exception to date are some gratings from left over kit parts.
Her framing and superstructure are of Alder, with the darker pieces of Walnut. The red furniture is built from Redheart and the yellow wood is Yellowheart, Boxwood, or Longhi. And of course the black is Ebony.
As is typical, her port side will be fully planked, but her starboard side has windows to her soul. She will be fully rigged, but with only some of the sails shipped.
Officially I laid her keel on October 1, 2014; she is aging gracefully.
Apparently my pic files are too large to attach. I'll have to work on that
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harvey1847 got a reaction from Jorge Diaz O in HMS Triton 1773. POF. 1:48. Daniel
Hello all!
Still waiting for the answer about the question of the mizzen mast... Druxey, Mark, Jürgen... and all!
Anyway,
Here´s a pic of the Triton taked on June 18th 2014
And here´s a of how she have changed.
I´m pretty happy cause now I can see the "final" shape of the ship. Cutting the frames was kind of a nightmare... almost everything started to crack so I have had to quote every single piece with a pencil an then stick them to the frames with tape or to see where I have to re-glue...
Hope to work some more on Easter!
daniel.
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harvey1847 reacted to Piet in Hr. Ms. O 19 1938 by Piet - FINISHED - scale 1:50 - submarine of the Royal Navy Netherlands in service 1939 - 1945
Hello everyone, well, as I have mentioned a few posts ago, the only thing left for me to do before closing this build log is a few final pics. Out of the roughly 50 pics I took yesterday I picked only nine.
I want to thank everyone for following this build and your encouragement. A special thanks to those who gave me advice and assistance in procuring photos, drawings and hardware like Gino, Remco, Amateur Jan, Mark T. If I missed anyone, please forgive me, I have thanked you on the spot in one of the earlier posts.
I will monitor this log for a short while and respond but please keep it on topic. If you have questions send me a PM and I'll answer to the best of my ability.
I have really enjoyed doing this build with all of you looking over my shoulder. Your friendship I will treasure and hopefully I'll see you all again in my VOC ship dockyard.
Cheers,
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harvey1847 got a reaction from JerseyCity Frankie in HMS Triton 1773. POF. 1:48. Daniel
Hello all!
Still waiting for the answer about the question of the mizzen mast... Druxey, Mark, Jürgen... and all!
Anyway,
Here´s a pic of the Triton taked on June 18th 2014
And here´s a of how she have changed.
I´m pretty happy cause now I can see the "final" shape of the ship. Cutting the frames was kind of a nightmare... almost everything started to crack so I have had to quote every single piece with a pencil an then stick them to the frames with tape or to see where I have to re-glue...
Hope to work some more on Easter!
daniel.
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harvey1847 got a reaction from jansmiss in HMS Triton 1773. POF. 1:48. Daniel
Hello All!
A big and small update...
I am working with the interior of the hold to trying to move on '¡?... Trying to finish all the breast hooks and the masts steps.
I got a question, Does the mizzen mast rest on the keel or on the lower deck? on two huge carlings? # 3 - 4 counting from the stern to the stem. (see the pdf)
Anyway, I have started to cut all the frames and I have made a hand saw out of a square piece of wood (15x15mm) and then cast the whole thing with resin. It´s pretty useful, not fancy but it works.
I have attached lots of pics just to remind me where I have to cut more or less. Like a "diary". Also I have attached the pdf I made on its day to meassure all the dots from the wale to the top rail.
the pdf...
keel_frames_decks_PS_100.pdf
Best wishes!
Daniel.
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harvey1847 reacted to yamsterman in hms triton; first attempt at plank on frame
hi all
first post for a while.not had much time for modelmaking unfortunately.
but have found time to start on the gun tackles.
blocks are single 3mm pearwood from chucks emporium of goodies.
reading through swan class books....a great source of inspiration and information.....blocks were stropped and served.
i have attempted to replicate this.
firstly a length of fine brass wire was annealed and wrapped round the appropriate diameter form, in this case a length of 6mm brass bar.
rings were then cut off and silver soldered. 0.1mm thread was then wrapped round to represent the serving.
the oversized ring was then squished round the block so that a beckett was formed either end.....one for the hook and one for the lanyard.
photos enclosed.....comments and critisms greatly appreciated.
man ropes for the entry stanchions also been started.
thats all for now folks
cheers....mick
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harvey1847 reacted to Gimo in HMS Triton 1:48 (cross section) by Gimo
Blackening.
While waiting for "Brass-Black" delivery, I've decided to experiment with the pig-lard.
Gimo
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harvey1847 reacted to Gimo in HMS Triton 1:48 (cross section) by Gimo
Yesterday morning I finally received the Brass-Black. The time for experiments is over.
Cheers
Gimo.
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harvey1847 got a reaction from wangshuoliurui in HMS Triton 1773. POF. 1:48. Daniel
I used the balsa pattern to draw the shape on the bulkhead already done. I also used it to get the different hights of the main pillar and the other small ones.
The main pole -post is 3x3 and the others 2x2. All this measures are what has been taking me a lot of time of thinking. 2 mm means 9.6 sq cm on real, 3 --- 14.4 sq cm much more or less 15x15. I always try to translate the measures to the real to see if the model looks true to the real world or is a "fake".
For example on the aft platform, the one for the fish and the spiritous drinks I did long ago, the strips measure 4.5mm (21.6cm real). To find out strips of that size for a hatch seems to me odd. So I re-do it with stips of 10 - 15 on real.
Any way here are the pics of where I am right now...
What I have wanted to explain is how the windows -doors can be open and how they work. I have not the tools to make the groove on the frame to hold the door but looks real to me.
Daniel.
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harvey1847 reacted to kees de mol in Antje (KW49) 1959 by kees de mol - FINISHED - scale 1/75 - Dutch side trawler
Some photo's of the paintshop. Painting is progressing very well but its a lot of work. Also some forgotten jobs to do. It was very hard to find out wich colours to use and where. I have only one hazy colourphoto made from a distance. But I think I have things clear now.
Kind Regards, Kees
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harvey1847 reacted to kees de mol in Antje (KW49) 1959 by kees de mol - FINISHED - scale 1/75 - Dutch side trawler
I bought a nice looking prop but its much to shiny. I like to paint the ship like its in use so it needs a little weathering. And so does the propellor. In the past I tried to do this with paint but that didnt work out well. I remembered a proces from scienceclasses called electrolyse with an katode and an anode. How that works you can find on the internet but the pictures below show how I (mis) use it.
Here's what whe start with. A nice and shiny propellor.
First an conductive fluid wich means you dump some salt in warm water and give it a goed stir.
Then the power supply. I use one with 9V DC and little amps
Then separate the minus and the plus and connect them with the prop and a piece of metal with zinc on it. Try in wich order. If you have it right the prop will produce lots of small bubbles later.
Then place them in the water. Make sure the two pieces of metal do not touch eachother. I use some clips to clamp them to the pot.
When you do it wrong the zinc piece will produce bubbles
And when you do it right the prop will produce lots of bubbles
Then leave it for some 15 minutes but try to inspect the prop during the process. It will go fast and if you are satisfied with the result stop on time. Its good to rub the prop with a rag so you can see the endresult.
Looks nice allready
And the final result. Iam very satisfied with it. I admit its a little bit ghettostyle but it works to me.
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harvey1847 reacted to kees de mol in Antje (KW49) 1959 by kees de mol - FINISHED - scale 1/75 - Dutch side trawler
Small update this time from the paintshop. I painted the hull red with (I hope) the right red colour. Tomorrow I will mark the waterline and will paint the upper part of the hull.