Beef Wellington

David - you can rest easy, there is plenty of historical latitude at this specific time period when these ships were designed and built, which was a great period of change to really do what you want.  Built up bulwarks were the fashion, then moved back to open bulwarks, and then finally built up again.  Armament wise, carronades gradually added to, and final replaced the quarterdeck and foc's'l cannon.  Available plans are not consistent for specific ships, probably because of the factors above and depending on when they were drafted and what they represent (as designed, or built, or when in service).

Interesting subject and approach (to finish the hull before glueing the upper bulwark pieces on).  Nice to see some new ship types!

Hello there:
 
Over the last couple of evenings I've managed to complete another couple of small things on Bluenose - the chain box and the rudder. The chain box is not featured on the deck plans, but included in a lower corner of a plan sheet that documents the deck fixtures, dorys and mast/spar construction - it could easily be overlooked.
 
What isn't clear is if there was one such box on either side - the plans say to locate the chain box just aft of the engine box, which is located on the port side. I included two boxes on my 1:100 scale Bluenose, since it made sense to have one on each side for each anchor....but what is the consensus on this?
 
Anyway, this feature was constructed out of 5 pieces of 1/32" thick basswood cut to measure. The front and back of the box were installed on top of the base and then the sides added after - the inside faces of each strip were painted black prior to assembly and then the outside and edges finished white after.
 
The rudder was pretty easy - especially since I had already made them man years ago when I cut out the final versions of the keel pieces and bulkheads - this much have been back in 2016 or 2017!! Sheesh!! I was reading another modeller's log today and he was calling himself "lazy" for not treenailing his deck - but I bet he never waited 7 years to install a rudder!! 
 
Anyway, the rudder and stern post were made from 3/16" ply and needed only some minor adjustments to fit properly. The pintles and gudgeons were made using 1/64" x 3/64" bras strip gently bent first around a 1/16" brass rod and then again around a scrap 3/16" piece of ply to get the rough shape. The short sections of 1/16" brass rod were glued to the pintles and gudgeons with CA and then attached to the rudder first. I installed the stern post onto the model and then the tiller extension was added - made from a 3/16" dowel and shaped accordingly. I masked off the rudder and painted the pintles and gudgeons before installing the rudder on the model - I felt that this would be far less messy than using the blackening agent I have or trying to paint them on the model.
 
Next I'll probably mount the model on a stand I made about a year and a half ago and then finally move onto the windlass and other works at the bow....this, along with the scrollwork and name plates as well as the chainplates & shroud deadeyes will see the hull more or less complete! Then I think I will return to my Bellona build for a while and let Bluenose rest before moving onto the masting....
 
In the meanwhile, enjoy the photos and happy modelling
hamilton

Yesterday I had a go at the catheads, which were one of those elements that I was kind of puzzling over. In the end, I decided that my metal working skills and the resources at my current disposal for achieving good results were pretty limited, so I took another route.
 
I used 3/32" square basswood stock for the the "head" and 3/64" brass rod for the shaft. I marked off the basswood to the length of the out portion of the cathead and filed out a notch in the end, first making a gentle cut along the centre of one end of the strip and then using first a triangular and then a round needle file to widen out the end to simulate the sheave. I then drilled a hole behind that and widened/filed it out with files to complete the sheave. I then drilled small holes to receive eyebolts in the bottom and side.
 
Only after that did I cut off the portion of the basswood stock, drill a hole in the square end of it and attach a length of brass rod for the cathead "shaft". I then whittled and sanded down the end of the wooden "head" portion to blend it in with the brass, painting the whole assembly black. They're definitely out of scale (the head portion anyway) but I'm hoping that they won't look so bad once all the other elements are built up around them.....
 
I did have to make some 1/16" thick cap rail extensions, since I forgot to mark out those when I was making the caprails a while back...this was very straightforward. Here are the photos - enjoy and happy modelling
hamilton
 

A quick update featuring the main mast fife rail. When I was looking at this on the plans, I figured I could get it done in a few hours - another case of being totally wrong! It took about 10 hours total over three sessions to finish. I cut the pinrack from 1/16" basswood sheet and used a couple of wooden stanchions left over from the Artesania Latina San Francisco which turned out to be perfectly to scale and matched the general shape as well. 1/8" square stock was used for the bitts, and I used two edge-glued 1/8 x 1/16" strips, filed out to accommodate the bitts and the boom crutch, with a small hole drilled for a belaying pin on the forward edge. These were glued up around the posts. Once this was done, I noticed that the two posts were a little out of alignment, so I glued them at the bottom to some 1/32 and 1/8" strip wood to bring them even and to correct height.
 
I repurposed a couple of knees from another kit for the fife rail support knees, as well - these were larger than scale, but were pretty easily trimmed down to size for the bluenose. They are not to scale thickness - being 1/16" when they should be 3/32"....but I glued them close to the outboard edges, so only the very keenest and most attentive eyes will see - and of course all of you who I just told about it!! I also made the mast coat out of 1/8" basswood, drilled and filed out to 5/16" for the mast. The belaying pins were blackened (looking a little hairy) to complete the little project.
 
I am starting to get really concerned about all the metal work that's coming up with the masting and forward deck details. I have very limited experience working with metal and given that my blackening technique also produces pretty fuzzy results....I will have to do a bit of practice with the soldering gun and see if I can't wrap my head around it....Definitely going to fudge as much with wood as I can get away with, but at a certain point I feel like it's hard to model without picking up some metal working chops.....
 
Until then, though, it'll be more deck superstructures. Enjoy the photos and happy modelling
hamilton

Thanks for all the likes and comments.
Trincomalee was fully open this time so I was able to visit quarter deck and forecastle. Anchor stocks are tapered as per my general understanding so strange why they don't appear to be in the AotS drawings. Anyway moving on...
I have completed the last of the ship’s boats, the 18ft cutter and I’m quite disappointed with the result.
It all started very well and for the first time, there were no bits breaking off the delicate keel or stern pieces. I was also pleased with the way the second layer of card representing the clinker planking went. However, after the bulkheads were removed the boat has seemed to spread across its width making the transoms too narrow. I also had problems fitting the brass etch gratings especially at the stern which, in contradiction to my previous thought, needed trimming to size.






It’s finished now but I might scrap it, buy another from Chris and have a second go.
The ropes have arrived so it’s back to the rigging.
 
David

Gun port positions
                 Any one who has previously built the Diana can testify this may cause a few issues down the line. The instructions states that the gunports should be 30mm apart but the drawing suggests they are anywhere between 28 and 38 mm and if starting from bulkhead No 16 and carrying on with an equal distance of  30mm then you end up with the gunports lining up with bulkheads 4 and 5. I have made a template and traced the gunports at 31.5mm apart and if I start just 3mm forward of bulkhead  No.16 then this ensures the gun ports are clear of the bulkheads (just) and I also temporarily fitted the masts & channels and found that there will hopefully be no issues with the deadeye chain plates crossing the gunports and should be clear of the gun barrels. There is however the position of the ladders and the vertical protectors of  some concern. These will have to be moved so as to still be between gunport 7 and 8 as per drawing however it will be necessary to alter the upper gun port template  ( bulwark)by reducing the forward edge so is not in line with the ladders at the deck. Hope this makes sense
I believe this is a small price to pay rather than start moving different gun ports and not cutting out sections of bulkheads 4 & 5b but still maintaining  the equal distance required . 
 

 



Update on Bloomfield Cannon Barrels. As I previously decided to change the 18Lb cannon carrages, I have also now decide to use the Bloomfield pattern for the Barrels. Thanks to Allan for his timely intervention. Chris from Vanguard models has kindly supplied me with the 9ft (long) Bloomfield barrels ( 3d Printer  which I have heard have excellent detail) together with the brass fittings only, without the carrages for a very reasonable price. Once I have these and assemble one I will also be able to work out the correct height of the gunports so hopefully the gun barrels will end up centrally in the gunport. Lots to think about but no doubt I will het a few snags.

To throw a curve ball - the Contract for HMCSS Victoria (1855) called for shot garlands.  The ship was armed with a single 32pdr 56cwt pivot gun and six 32pdr 25cwt guns in broadside.  The garlands, for the broadside guns at least, appear to have been fitted as a photo (see crop below) taken between 1858 and 1865 shows the shot garlands, with shot in them, fitted to the bulwarks between the rising timbers.
 

 
cheers
 
Pat

Interesting subject and approach (to finish the hull before glueing the upper bulwark pieces on).  Nice to see some new ship types!

For what its worth Kevin (and please feel free to delete!) I experimented a little with wipe on poly and tung oil when I was trying to decide.  I found the sample sheet from what must now be close to 7yrs ago, although this has not been in sunlight (though this photo was taken in natural light)  The wipe on poly gives a little more of a rich finish to my eye.  I seem to recall putting a second coat of both on the outside edge and this is faintly visible as well, both being a little 'richer' again.  Of course, your results may vary....

I 'started' at the rearmost bulkhead and which positioned that gun port.  The rear of that gunport was flush against the full bulkhead with no adjustment.  From there the other positions were determined, 30mm apart which resulted in only the first two bulkheads requiring 'treatment'.  Based on differences on each it and construction, I'm sure this could vary a little which is no big deal.  There is one pair of ports where the steps are located that are further apart as indicated on plans, I made a really silly error by mispositioning this which had to be corrected.  I didn't find a satisfactory solution that avoided having to deal with bulkheads 3&4 keeping a consistent port separation.  Good luck!
 
Interestingly, I found at a later date on NMM plans that there was in fact another port added further forward, this could only be a bridle port with no cannon as it would be located in the manger area.  It would be very difficult to show this port opened, but had I known I may have attempted to show this in a closed position.

I 'started' at the rearmost bulkhead and which positioned that gun port.  The rear of that gunport was flush against the full bulkhead with no adjustment.  From there the other positions were determined, 30mm apart which resulted in only the first two bulkheads requiring 'treatment'.  Based on differences on each it and construction, I'm sure this could vary a little which is no big deal.  There is one pair of ports where the steps are located that are further apart as indicated on plans, I made a really silly error by mispositioning this which had to be corrected.  I didn't find a satisfactory solution that avoided having to deal with bulkheads 3&4 keeping a consistent port separation.  Good luck!
 
Interestingly, I found at a later date on NMM plans that there was in fact another port added further forward, this could only be a bridle port with no cannon as it would be located in the manger area.  It would be very difficult to show this port opened, but had I known I may have attempted to show this in a closed position.

Interesting subject and approach (to finish the hull before glueing the upper bulwark pieces on).  Nice to see some new ship types!

Hi Alistair - yes, it is the Syren rope, and from memory it was the largest diameter Chuck produces which seemed to fit the bill nicely.

Headworks (Part 2):
 
@DaveBaxt - the diamond cutting wheel is similar to this, easily cuts into the razor blades (545 Dremel | Tools | DigiKey ) with suitable eye protection!  Sure there are many other similar items and prices from other retailers.  The razor blades were bought in bulk...similar to these Multi Purpose Razor Blades (Pack of 100) (double-glazing-parts-spares.co.uk).  Also, have provided a little more detail in update below...The wood used is either pear or castello box depending on what I have on hand, these woods are great for this.  I would suggest you have nothing to lose, and much to gain by giving it a go....think you'll be pleasantly surprised at how simple it is with a little practice.
 
Much fiddling, fettling and fine tuning has been going on with the headworks, but this should bring me up to date.  Think the back of this challenging task has been broken as I will likely be needing to spend much of any available time on unrelated projects.
 
Once the shape of the head timbers had been finalized, the covering boards could be added.  These are identified as being 1" in TFFM, so these were cut from 0.5mm pear sheet to approximately the correct dimension.  TFFM suggests shaping these and attaching once the lower rail is in place, but am going to try and simplify because I'm not sure how successfully I'd be able to do this.  Photos below show work very much in progress.

Once finalized, the time head timbers can be finished.  A scraper was made specifically for the purpose to scribe the profile, with a long inner face than usual to act as a guide on both the fore and aft sides, and to account for the very different angle the face presents.  A light coat of blue paint was applied to the outer face of the covering board to aid the eye in seeing the results of introducing the profile.  Unfortunately, the only photo I had of this was of horrible quality, so apologies in advance but you get the idea.  The scraper detail and a more final version is also shown below with paint applied.

The lower rail was profiled by temporarily attaching to some spare sheet and again a custom scraper.  Finding one that followed approximately the desired profile and looked acceptable took quite a few attempts.

With all the key components really only requiring the some final finishing, it was time to cross fingers for another dry-fit - it gives confidence knowing that any additional tweaks can be easily addressed before glued to applied.  The covering boards introduce a 'ledge' for the main rail to sit on, something that the simplified approach to shaping the head timbers did not include but seems prototypical.  Some slight alignment issues apparent in the photos below should disappear when finally secured in place with glue.  Next up is clearly some touch up after seeing these pictures on the PC!

 

Alistair,  Your work is excellent and the build a pleasure to follow!
Just as an FYI, there are  high res plans of pinnaces, including single banked 28 foot pinnaces from 1793 and 1798 in the Wiki Commons site which are posted below if you want to modify the inboard works to be more like a pinnace.   FWIW there were probably only about 8 or 9 planks per side.  Not sure if that makes it easier or more difficult. The drawing of the launch below with a cross section shows 9. 
Allan
 

 


 

Continued...
I wrapped the stern rail with a styrene strip and fixed the quarter badges. Started to fiddle with the brass friezes but i hate these parts and may delete them altogether - we'll see. If kept I'll rework the painting of them but they'll always look like planted on brass bits which annoy me...


Added the closed rear gun port. Not quite a match to the hull planking.

Next was the head works. I mixed kit parts with scratch - mostly scratch. Probably the most challenging element so far. I'll live with the outcome but vow to do better the next time I grapple with these geometries.

At this point I have already got the rails on but that's another story.



Not by best modelling work but I'll live with it.

Added the last piece of scroll work.

The rails were installed - this another defining build element. I used the kit parts with only minor alterations - they fit really well.


I think the kit calls for grated hatches for the scuttles - I think this is wrong. Here scuttles as solid hatches with eyebolts.

Sailor on the fore deck shouting. "Where are the masts?"

Lastly back then I played with the swivel cannons. I think the barrels are from Syren - I'll check that but pretty sure. The rest is scratched.
 

Compared to the kit offer...

Finally before I move along with the model some overall pictures:
 

Aft, fore rails  and various other parts not fitted in this one.

 
That'll do. That sort of shows where I got to and now I'll carry on. First up will be removing the build-up of dust. I was seriously lazy and just left the hull on a side table in my studio - it is very dirty. Very, very dirty.
 
Cheers,
Alistair 

Interesting subject and approach (to finish the hull before glueing the upper bulwark pieces on).  Nice to see some new ship types!

Interesting subject and approach (to finish the hull before glueing the upper bulwark pieces on).  Nice to see some new ship types!

I meant to add this pic in my initial post, the three that didn't make the cut, although the first, the one furthest away was always just a test to see how the initial designs looked - the one in the middle was used for all bulwark template patterns, and the nearest almost was the one, but decided to change the sliding keel parts so the modeller could add them once the hull is complete, rather than fit them before the deck is added.

A few days away for my shipyard assistant to enjoy.

2984
Refreshed, and back at the bench. 
 
Post Twenty-five
 
Stern and Quarter Galleries
I now return to Section 165.
 
Here Chris has ticked all my boxes, realistically constructed Quarter galleries, and correctly levelled stern bench, incorporating the rudder housing with a nice compass design on the top.
Right up my Strasse and saving me a shed load of work.
 
Even so, getting the stern gallery, Upper and lower counters, and Quarter galleries all correctly aligned is one of the most important and tricky areas of a build.
 
 In gathering together the parts for the next steps, the following is noted for clarification.
Qtr Galleries.
Section 174 indicates use of parts #71/72, it should read 71/73. These represent the top of the Qtr gallery (#73) and one of two layers of part #71 which form the seat of ease.
Parts#72 are the bottom segments of the Qtr Gallery that slots into the hull.
888
Test fitting the Qtr Galleries.

0844
Test fitting the Poop deck.
The test deck beams and deck pattern slipped seamlessly into place.

0893
There will ultimately be a lot less of Poop deck planking on my version.
 
The next stage is that tricky business of getting the stern gallery, and upper and lower counters aligned.

0891
I used a couple of 2mm pear strips to represent the capping rails which the top of the stern gallery should meet when fitted.

0900
I found I did need to shape the lower edge of the Upper counter to fully meet the upper edge of the Lower counter. I used the lower counter as a template to match the curves.

0897
The lower counter was soaked and formed around a tin before fitting.

0904
I was in no hurry to finish this section, these parts were pinned and re-pinned several times before I was satisfied that the stern area looked good from every angle.

0903
The planking line was then trimmed to suit.
On with the show.
 
B.E.
29/04/2023
 
 
 
 
 

A really beautiful model, will definitely follow your progress Giampeiro.

For what its worth Kevin (and please feel free to delete!) I experimented a little with wipe on poly and tung oil when I was trying to decide.  I found the sample sheet from what must now be close to 7yrs ago, although this has not been in sunlight (though this photo was taken in natural light)  The wipe on poly gives a little more of a rich finish to my eye.  I seem to recall putting a second coat of both on the outside edge and this is faintly visible as well, both being a little 'richer' again.  Of course, your results may vary....

Cheers Guys for the comments and likes, its nice to share a journey with friends.
 
Sjors/Mobbsie - its not an exact replica of me, I had to scale down the pecs to fit 
 
Well, a major milestone arrived slowly. Finally the first planking is complete.  This time the bow presented me a few problems to solve, all self inflicted because I've deviated from the kit.  Because I had decided to customize the bow so I could fit the bowsprit through rather than sitting in a notch on the stem, it essentially took away any anchor points for the fo'c'sle bulwark.  The solution I used was to shape some balsa blocks to the appropriate shape and temporarily mount on top of the bow filler blocks, this allowed the planks to be given the appropriate curvature (after soaking) and then securely glued edge on the plank above and below (Hoepfully this will also provide some protection during upcoming phases).  To ensure that the top of the bulwark has the right shape for the plansheer, I needed to shape the uppermost strips lower edge to key onto the plank below.  Because this strip would be the most susceptible to damage, I used one pre-shaped strip curved completely around the bow.  The bow on this ship looks deceptively simple but has some tricky curves, but even in this rough state the lines seem to be showing through very pleasingly.  Note that the two shaper blocks are very slightly different height which gives the illusion that the top strip is not level, but it is....I must have checked it a million times.
 

 
A scaled copy from the AOTS Diana book to get the correct shape of the bow and many diagrams cross referenced
 

 
Finally a technique I found very helpful, but unfortunately not until I was nearly done.  To keep planks edge on during planking I built these little 'U' shaped pegs out of some extra lime strip (the length of the slot is slightly deeper than the width of a strip) which can be used in many places to help keep strips edge on in some the tricky curving areas at the bow.  The uppermost strip is only approximately shaped at this point, I want to wait until the deck is on the determine final dimensions.  In the waist, I once again deviated from the instructions and carried the planking 2mm above the top of the  bulkheads rather than stopping at the top as indicated in the instructions to allow for the thickness of the 1mm false deck and 1mm deck planking.  Any excess should be easy to remove if necessary.
 

For what its worth Kevin (and please feel free to delete!) I experimented a little with wipe on poly and tung oil when I was trying to decide.  I found the sample sheet from what must now be close to 7yrs ago, although this has not been in sunlight (though this photo was taken in natural light)  The wipe on poly gives a little more of a rich finish to my eye.  I seem to recall putting a second coat of both on the outside edge and this is faintly visible as well, both being a little 'richer' again.  Of course, your results may vary....