Vivian Galad

Well, almost 2 years since I´ve put something in here regarding my Oseberg. I´ve replanked it from the start and am now at my 8th row on the left side. Picture is not that fair, since I have no more good cams available, so, I ask u to considerate that - promise will get one as soon as I can.

Instead of making the pin rail I made up my mind about making the extra frames.

I'll make them! 
 
Imho there's too much "nothing" in between the frames and I think there should be more frames.
I hesitated to make them, because they won't be that visible. Top oar bench and all the oars will hide much of the inside of the hull, but I know I will feel guilty when I let it go. 
 
Another...silly... reason. I got myself a Proxxon scroll saw table and the Admiral started to make funny comments about me not using it.
That's bad news for my Christmas wish list, so I better do something with it. 
 
So...here we go!

Used the frames of my other bireme kit to mark the lines. (old fashioned gravestone rubbing technique ).

Neat thing! Very handy indeed!

dry fitting the extra frames.
 
I'll stain them before I glue them in place.
 
When I finished this...I can do the tensioning cables and top seat beams....and the pin rail of course.
 
More soon,
 
Robin

With some unexpected extra shipyard time and the help of the thin saw...finished the railing.

Next job will be the pin rail on the stern deck.

(*)
 
It will be wider, lower, devided and with 2x4 belaying pins. Placed more to the rear.
More or less a copy of the pin rail seen on a Greek trade ship reconstruction.
The 3 posts will be made of 3 x 3 mm rod, the rail of 2 x 2 mm rod, the pins I'll make of thinned down cocktail sticks.
 
I also bought the 0,8 mm rope needed for the tensioning cables and more wood. Can't have enough wood right? 
 
More soon,
 
Robin
 
*Note: All can download the bireme manual from the Dusek website (PDF file), so I don't see any harm in showing some of it.

2 more...

a close up of the construction...

and with the cap rail on...
 
The rest of the week I work long hours (real work lol), so next update not before sunday or monday.
 
Thanks for all the kind words and...more soon,
 
Robin
 
Edit: on Facebook my sister in law complained about no bottle on these photos. She's right...completely forgot about it.

Thanks guys,
 
A bit more about the "oar movement restriction ropes" (OMRR in the Hellenic ship builders and crew manuals...okey...I made that up  ).
I've seen them on the Olympias lower oars...

For some reason only on the lower oars, not on the centre and top oars.
Perhaps it's because the complete lack of situational awareness there, but I'm not sure.
During the sea trials the rowers there often mentioned they had no clue about what was going on, so it does make sense.
 
Perhaps these ropes were also used on other levels, but not on the Olympias.
 
Making these ropes isn't tough. I can tie them to the seat beams and a nice little loop goes over the oar handle bar.
Something like this...

but....


Whatever I do...they must go on before I place the top seat beam...or it will become a nightmare job.
It will still be daunting to get them on the oar handles when it's time to place them!
 
So...I do this on the side tomorrow.
 
More soon,
 
Robin

It´s great to see such a progress! Nicely done. Precious to be back and follow you work, Mark!

Great work, Louis!

It´s great to see such a progress! Nicely done. Precious to be back and follow you work, Mark!

Still trimming the grooves out of the plug. It's a long job. I'm a bit over half way through (the lighter timber is the bit I've trimmed).
 

 
I discovered a mistake I'd made earlier in placing the frames nearest the bow and had to reconfigure my layout. Took awhile to figure out what was wrong, but I took a break and came back fresh and worked out what to do. The plug isn't very pretty, though, and I don't have the precision I see on other people's models. But I think it should turn out well in the long run - the hull itself should be fine, and then I can retire the plug.
 
As I mentioned before, there are 124 frames in all. I'm not going to place all of them on at once - just too complicated - instead I'll be putting on every second one and planking over that, and adding the other 62 once that's done.
 
In the meantime as a break from trimming the plug (it does get very boring) I've started carving the new helmsman (note I'm still using that gigantic matchstick).
 

 

Today's a red letter day. I finally finished the last of the upper bank oars!
 
Here are the final ten
 

 
And here they are roughly in place - plus the steering oars.
 

 
The second last oar was very frustrating - I'd got it trimmed to shape and was starting the rounding process, when SNAP!
 

 
There was a knot right where the blade met the shaft. I tried gluing it back together, but it just wasn't strong enough. So I had to make another oar. Very annoying.
 
I've noticed about 5 of the oars have a bit of a bow in them, and I'm hoping to be able to take it our with heat bending - but I'll have to be careful. 
 
I've also bent the tailpieces of the wales into their final shape -
  

 
this is the port one - the starboard one is bent to shape but not smoothed off yet. 
 
I've also started cutting the plug back so the frames don't get stuck in the grooves when it's time to remove the model from the plug. The lighter coloured wood is what I've done so far. Surprisingly easy to do with a stanley knife.
 

 
And as I cut away a section I re-draw that part of the guidelines for the wales and the locations of the oarports (in blue). It's not neat, but it does the job, and the hull is the important thing, not the plug.
 

 
And I've also started smoothing off the wales, the keel and the sternpost/"tail" in preparation for putting everything together.
 
By the way, I have a question - Can anybody let me know if the rebate/rabbet for the garboard strake is supposed to continue into the stempost and sternpost? Both stempost and sternpost on this model are somewhat unusual and I'm not sure what I'm supposed to do there.
 
Steven

Four oars to go . . . Yes, I should probably have them done by now, but I find every time I try to hurry I make mistakes. So now I just do them when I feel like it. Takes longer, but this is supposed to be fun, not a job or an ordeal, right?
 
I've trimmed the plug at the stern - just shaved some of the thickness off - and now the wales are long enough and will join the keel nicely. They fit nicely at the bow:
 

 
Here's a side view of the stern: 
 

 
The sternpost assembly (including the 'tail' of the keel) is just sitting there at the moment. I'll glue it in place when I've done some more preparation. 
 
As I mentioned in an earlier post the 'tail' of the gunwale is a separate piece which I've been bending to shape. I'm leaving it off for the moment until everything else is finalised. You can see the scarph joint where it's going to go.
 
Here is the stern seen from right behind. The wales are still only loosely in place, but they've got enough 'give' so they'll fit nicely when it comes to gluing them on.
 

 
And here is the stern seen from underneath. I'm pretty happy with how everything's fitting together. I'm usually a 'bash to fit' type of guy, so getting this level of precision is a bit unusual for me (and strangely therapeutic) . 
 

 
So far it's all being kept together by temporary screws - I'm just trying to make sure everything fits.
 
Once that's done I'll be shaving the plug down so the grooves for the frames vanish (though I'll still be able to see where they've been). I realised that because the tail is a reverse curve, to take the hull off the plug I'll have to rotate it around the tail rather than just pull it straight off.  If the frames sit in grooves they'll jam when I try to rotate.
 
Then I put the frames in place (well, every second one, actually - the others will be put in place after the planking.). I'll be holding them to the plug with push pins near gunwale level; then
 
put the keel in place and glue it to the frames;
 
glue the bottom two wales in place and plank up to the second wale;
 
Pull out all the push pins, put the gunwale on and glue it in place;
 
Finish the planking.
 
I've been waiting a long time to start the planking - it'll be a great relief to actually start putting the hull together so I finally have something to show for all the preliminary work I've been putting in.
 
Steven

Five oars down, five to go!
 

 
I've smoothed off the lion's head somewhat and worked on his mane. Close to finished, but I'll have to put him to one side until I've done the hull so I can cut the back to fit against the bow of the ship. Something wrong with either my camera or my technique - a lot of the time it doesn't focus properly. This is the best I've been able to do.
 

 

 
I took a leaf out of Druxey's book and put little brass pins in the top of the keel to fit in corresponding holes in the plug. I was hoping the guy across the road could make the holes with his drill press - I don't have one myself and I don't trust myself with a hand-held (electric) drill at this scale - the keel is about 4mm thick and the hole is 1.5mm diameter. But his chuck would take such a small drill-bit, so I had to go to Plan B.
 
I used an awl and the pointy end of a triangular-section rat-tail file to start the hole, and then when it was well enough established I was able to make it bigger with the hand-drill. It all worked surprisingly well. I should have doe it this way earlier. The hole was still a bit tight and I was able to hammer the pins in (they're just brass escutcheon pins) and then cut off the heads. They sit nice and firmly.
 

 
I've tried fitting the keel to the plug with the pins and it works well. As Eeyore said about his birthday present - it goes in and out like anything! 
 
I was fiddling with the keel and unfortunately I lost hold of it and it fell on the floor, and the tail broke off at the scarph joint. Perhaps a blessing in disguise - it makes fitting everything properly easier, and I can align it exactly against the plug when the time comes to glue it back together.
 
But now the keel sits in place I've discovered that the wales are just a tiny bit too short (about 3 millimeters - 1/8")  to join the keel properly at the stern. I'd got very disappointed at this, then - epiphany! I don't have to cut new pieces and scarph them to the wales to make them longer, I just need to re-shape the plug very slightly and shorten the keel a little (only a few millimeters), and they should come in nicely. A job for the coming weekend, perhaps, if i get the time.
 
Oh, and I've found a contemporary picture showing a support for the steering oars which I like the look of. It's a Byzantine representation of scraping the hull of a ship. You don't see the steering oars, only the stocks the ship is up on, but the shape looks good. I'd been puzzling over what I was going to do and now I've got something I'm happy to go with.
 

 
Steven

It´s great to see such a progress! Nicely done. Precious to be back and follow you work, Mark!

I have a question... this one goes back to "roof", "open" or "tub"...  Take a look at the drawing and where the red line points to.  I see the same line on the NMM drawing but it's very faint.   So now I'm wondering... is that a roof line?  Hahn's model has a roof/cover but.....  I'm not sure what I'm seeing.
 

 
I just realized today that if I don't lock my reference work (a pdf scan of the plan), I can accidently change the size of it.   grrrr....  I've started over redrawing my gallery top.

Thanks for the birthday wishes... 
 
Well.. it was back and forth.. cutting, breaking or feeding the carpet monster today.... but the gallery tops are done. The Admiral approves, which is good since I'm building this for her.  So Happy Dance...  
 
I've only tacked the roof tops in place as I'm going to fiddle with some settings over the next couple of weeks and see if I can get better parts for the decorations.  Doubtful, but worth a shot or two... I'm thinking a nice Kentucky Bourbon.    
 
Pictures below.  
 
Carvings are started and I'll work on them at a leisurely pace. But for now, I'm going to start the lower deck.  Less fiddly, methinks.   But first.. I need to refresh myself on the plans, make some spales, and put in a small dedication plaque.   Did I mention, clean the workshop and do maintenance on the power tools?  
 

 

I started installing the deck clamps for all three decks...  pictures will be forthcoming. 
 
I'm also making some tools/jigs.
 
The first is an inside measuring tool.  I put this one together as a test, I could make it fancier and neater, but it works.  It's just a strip of wood with a miniature clothes pin (peg) glued on one side.  There's 4 small strips for guiding the slider and there's two sliders of different lengths to allow me to measure from the narrowest part of the hull to the widest so I can cut the deck beams to fit properly.
 


 
The next one is just a simple jig.  Hahn's plans show a line indicating the top of the beams (bottom of the deck planks).  So.... I worked backwards a bit when setting up the frames and put in tabs 1/4" (6.35mm) down from the line to place the clamps.  My clamps are 1/8" (3.17mm) thick and the beams are 3/16" (4.76mm).   To get the beams to the right height, I need to remove 1/16" (1.5mm) from the ends of the beam where they sit on the clamp.  Yeah.. I know, complicated, but having had issues with measuring down into the hull and then lining up the clamp with the marks, I thought this would make life easier.  It did.  But the result is this jig.  
 
It's simple two pieces of scrap wood glued together with one being 1/16" taller than the other.  The beam goes into the jig as shown in the last picture and can be marked or cut using it.  It'll work for the narrowest to the widest beam as the arc is uniform across the beam.  A nice side benefit is that I end up with a flat spot on the end of the beam for gluing it to the clamp.
 



 
I'm making some spales at this time using the same method Grant used in his Granado group build..... only a bit smaller.
Lord a willin' and the creek don't rise, I should have all the clamps in some time tomorrow.  Maybe even some beams fitted... We'll see.
 
 

Progress of sorts.
 
Back on Version 1, I didn't do anything to the hold area.  However if one looked closely down the main hatch, the frames could be seen.  So this time, I've planked the area there.  I also have some hogsheads and barrels that I'm thinking of placing just in case someone peeks.  That's basically it for the hold.  The plans do show two platforms but nothing as to access.   The admiral agrees with this... also the rest of the plan....
 
Currently, I've cut my deck clamps for all four decks (lower, gun, and the quarterdeck and forecastle).  They're soaking and will be heat bent to shape.  I'm checking the inside again for a fair run for the planks and clamps.  Found a few spots that need some touch up with the sanding stick.  I've got a jig made up with the glue drying for removing the char from 75 deck beams that I ordered from Chuck back before I bought my laser.   Hopefully that won't get too monotonous... 
 
I'm also fiddling with the stern carvings in my "quiet" moments....  
 
The rest of the plan..
As far as details on the lower deck.. there's a gunroom at the stern but nothing in any of the plans on the doorway nor for a scuttle to the deck above nor what is in the gunroom.  I'll be referencing Hermione for this as the Belle Poule plans don't go below the gundeck.  Forward of the gunroom I'll add the 4 officers rooms, two storerooms, and two breadrooms.   And of course, the oven and hatchways. 
 
I'm also adding the bulkhead just behind the foremost hatchway with two doors (left and right to avoid the hatch.  I'm not sure what was stored in that area even though there's six rooms in that cramped area labeled "storeroom".  So I'm winging it a bit.  To the stern, I'll add the 4 officers rooms, two storerooms, and two breadrooms.   And of course, the oven and hatchways.  
 
There seems to be some subtle pressure from the Admiral on this suddenly... I think it's from earlier this week when I showed her the galleries and the little plaque.  Now shes' already started talking "display case"...   I keep telling her, it will be done when it's done...   
 
Once more, dear friends... into the breach.
 

 

Thanks again for the likes and comments.
 
This truly is a work in progress.   The situation is slowly resolving itself...   
 
Today's update is somewhat tiny... waterways.    The first picture shows the mill setup with the ball cutter.  I pass each waterway piece through the jig and each time take off more material.   Picture 2 shows the profile on a test piece that I'm aiming for.   I'll need to profile the side against the hull during installation to get a good fit.
 

 

Thanks as always for the likes and comments.
 
 
If I stare at something long enough, I'll usually realize what it is...  It's my mistake....  the last beam I have is 2-1/2" long.  On the drawing it's 3-1/2" long.  I think the drawing is looking from waterway to waterway which, if the beam is tapered or faired into the frames properly it would go past the clamp and end up being 3-1/2" long.  Not the end of the world... I may just shim out that area when I do the waterways and plank or I'll redo them.  I'm leaning towards a rework. I'm having my moments here wrapping my head around some of this.  
 
In my crude sketch... the black beam is how it looks now.  The red is how it should have been faired into the frame.]
 
 

Thanks for the "likes" and commentary...  
 
Making progress.   The beams are in for the lower deck.  There's probably another couple that I'll need to put in once I figure out the shape at the bow and stern.  The bow, not so much, but the stern looks different on the drawing than it does looking into the hull.  i think it's not at deck level... just has me scratching my head as I know the beams are all at the right height.
 
Anyway, I'm checking fore and main mast locations and then I'll be dropping a bit of string down the centerline to double check and pin down where I'll need the mizzen mast step, the three hatches, and the bowsprit step. I'm also plotting out the walls and cabins but won't get to far into that until the deck is planked.   Which... I'm hoping to get started on this week as soon as I can get the planks cut.  The actual next step with the waterways.  The wood has been selected (cherry) and the appropriate sized pieces selected.  
 
Here's pictures.   Feel free to point out any stupidity or errors on my part.  
 


 

Thanks for all the "likes" and comments.  After getting everything else around the house done and then getting the new mill set up, i'm busily planking the lower deck.
 
The first six strakes are finally in and I'm happy with them although there's some serious sanding in my future as they aren't all the same thickness...    But I've sorted out the planking scheme that I need to lay down.  This deck is all 1 foot wide and 4" thick planking.  It's actually thicker then the gundeck which is 3" thick but mostly not as wide.  I'll fight that battle when I get to the gundeck as there are some varying widths and thicknesses there.  
 
For the lower deck, as near as I can find, the planks are all run pretty much the same width from fore to aft with hook scarfs at the bow and some tapering at the stern.  I'm going full width but with the partitions fore and aft, I'm not planking much beyond them...  One reason is that the Admirals Plaque is behind the aft partition in the gunroom.
 
Here's a pic.  
 

 

Minor update to show that all is not folly and folderol...  
 
The waterways are completely in and the beams marked with the centerline, the carling locations for hatches and mast partners, and also for the line where the center thick stuff will end and the normal deck planking begins.  (See the first photo).
 
I also ran a test using cutoffs from the beams, I made a "fixture" for lack of a better word.   I cut some 1/8" cherry and tacked it to the beams to see if there's any issues using the laser to cut the planking.  Nope... even leaves a nice black line for the caulking (see the last two photos) and with care, I should have some better planking than if I tried to sand/plane in the taper, etc. .  Also there's a bit of waterway to show the profile.  
 
Tomorrow (or however long it takes) will be devoted to cutting and fitting the carlings.
 

 

Continuing with the mainmast;
 
Needed to approximate the length for the laterally mounted sidepieces that will include the two pulleys.
 
That done, penciled in where mast cutout areas should be.
 
Photos are self-explanatory so  keeping this update brief.  So far so good - Glad that I did not have to start all over again
 
Nice to get back to wood (as I keep repeating J)
 
Now onto the side pieces. This will most likely be a bit more complicated..
 

 
 
 
 

HI Mates,
 
Quick back-to-back update; used the “Nigel Method” to simulate the tarring of the main mast pieces.
 
Very happy with how it is coming out. Big thanks Nigel. I was going to use black paper or something. The pencil and glue idea is perfect.
 
Still a work in progress, mast is dusty from sanding. I also plan to use a light stain to darken it a bit. That dowel is too white. OK now for the top part bits. And cap.
 
Regards,
 
Michael
 

 
I think that the Museum used filler pieces that were probably missing after recovery. 
 

 
 

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks for the Likes, comments, and/or just dropping by.
 
==================
 
Starting preliminary work on building the mainmast. Using Landström as primary reference. According to Fred Hocker these line drawings are correct. Page 251 of Vasa I also have line drawings of main that look just about the same.
 

 
SO here goes. I was not sure about cutting lower portion to approximately the correct size. So instead decided to focus on the upper proportions. I can truncate the assembled extra length later.
 

 
After sourcing proper extra wood bits. (Lucky to have a Blick’s Art Supply store just a few blocks from the condo) First step was to thin both sides of the primary dowel.
 

 
Then cut the needed side filler bits
 

 
Next step will be to glue these two side fillers to the newly thinned out main dowel. I will use Nigel’s Brilliant idea of powdering a watercolor pencil and mixing it to the glue. After sanding  (possibly lathing) to round the mast, the dark glue should simulate any tar caulking that would have been added during original assembly of these parts.
 
PS: The actual mast is actually made up of a center core and has FOUR filler side bits. Overkill – I happy with just two side fillers.
 

 
I will then need to reduce the combined parts to the diameter that original dowel. Not sure yet how to get this right. TBD
 

 
Last pic – planning ahead for the upper top section of the lower mainmast.
 

 
To be continued,
 
Michael