Vivian Galad

mylords and ladies,
enough with wood glue, sawing and sanding ....... Bone-ahead signals the lookout.
 
A close view of my workbench
 
   
To get to the processing of the bones feeling I have made the Upper deck.
So make a template from plane plywood (again wood * grmmmpf *) transferred the outline on it ;Sawing planks;
(but now - from bone) ..... the sawdust was indescribable.
I looked like a miller .. and also my workshop!
So first all systems on standby!

Extraction system built from old sucker rod and again from the beginning ......... after 2! Days.

Without vacuum cleaner you should consider the bone saws. I could continue to work clean workshop after 2 days.
To get an idea, just for the big deck were 15! Bone tubes processed. The usable portion of planks from a bone tube is fabulous 15 - 20% of the rest goes through the kerf and waste.
Was sawn and is still a "Mödl-saw" with ordinary 2.4 hp motor;

The bars on the copied template glued on top (waterproof glue).
Openings for gratings; mast guides; etc. release or produce naturally.
The deck is cut in half lengthwise amidships, - So the deck to fit seamlessly later-
The finished deck with blank template on the plywood gluing (glue)
Unless it was still quite good ... but the grind-smooth the surface-to be practiced.
Luckily I had enough material to do so.
The second lucky circumstance was the lively sympathy of my modeling buddies. (Augsburg and Munich modellers group)
The experienced there tips and suggestions have contributed to the success of the start-up phase.
The most important tool is the abrasive belt grinding of Boehler (now "Kaleas" minitool)
 
http://www.kaleas.de//kaleas.cgi?action=show&sessionID=17508566136639363317508566〈=de&page=shop-produktliste.html&cat=32&subcat=3230&catname=Schleifen,%20Hobeln&arcode=x).
The second most important "Smoothing" are glass; ... yes glass.
I use a very long time after the removal of wood! the final sanding with 600 grit sandpaper, glass blades.
The best glass blades obtained from slide mount. The glass in the frame can squeeze out quite easily. One can also use this laboratory glassware. Available in every medicine trade. The glass is held at an angle to the direction of pull and pulled under LIGHT pressure on the wood surface. (Practice, practice, practice, practice, and again ...... practice, practice). So that the wood surface is smooth as a babyskin
And this system works amazing on bone surface!
 
   
Therewith, the main question was answered: The famous smooth surface bone models.
 
The deck in the deck cabin has received a special medallion.

On the drawings in the AOTS book "Royal Yacht Caroline 1749" by Bellabarba is a highly complicated deck to see. However, the author did not mention that a carpet! is.
To lay a carpet there was too profane for the model. So I incorporated a circular medallion with eight-pointed star in the center of the deck.
The rest goes around the outside radiating off to the sides.
The rays and the angular elements within the circle were made on the circular saw.
For the rays I made a saw mask.
This template is ensured that the individual strips are cut at the same angle.
Thus, the interior elements are easier to see, the edges are blackened before the glue along with Plakafarbe. The curves were the first challenge in this model. (Seen after the inside., Ridiculously.)
That this deck is not created in an afternoon, is obvious
 
 

 
 
   
 


The deck in master cabin needed five times more time. The black elements are made of ebony.
Chic ...or?
 
 
 
The comment from my Admiralty:  "will be whole model so elaborate?"
Answer:  No, that's nothing compared to the rest of the yet to come.
Admiralty  "must be?"
Answer: You were such a model, so calm in the forepeak.
Admiralty: "Do you want a coffee, I think it takes longer"
yeah... yeah.... the very best of all wives has a humorous slant............

After the top surfaces were finished were also the side walls are covered and also the outside paneling was mounted above the mountain woods
 
      

Already at that time I was absolutely overwhelmed by the bone material.
One does not believe that fine tuning can be done with bones. However, any blunder is clear to see. With quasi Note arrow on the "malus operandi"  as the Finn would say ... or was it the Swede?
Since then helps only back to the workbench and the defective part inside the box of Memories - (at times when the hand was faster than the artisan mind).
 
 
 
Back to the topic.

Bone model of HMY 1749 Caroline M 1: 50

    I asked for a little patience so I can write something to the building report chronologically.

    Now that I have already reported in other forums  Caroline I would like to read the report and hopefully entertaining to bring on  PC

    Let's start with the planning.

   In the year  1988, While visiting the "Hestorisch Sheep ride Museeum" in Amsterdam, I see a very strange looking white model held in a French frigate. The tiny carvings fascinate me.
    My wife: OOOOOH ... so one I would also like to have! I: you shall have .....

    In the following years! I collect everything that is there to have bone vessels and bone processing.

    For model prove only the leg bones of bovine animals. (Upper and lower leg, called tubes or bone marrow) as ideal, because the density and strength is optimal. All other ... Ribs, shoulder, skull, etc. are too porous and brittle.

    The preparation of the bone.

    For the construction of Caroline to start about 400 tubes are required! This massive amount you will not get the butcher of his confidence but only at the slaughterhouse.
    A tube is [without joints] about 160 - 180 mm long. Weight 200g
    The tubes must be boiled at high temperatures to remove the marrow and cook again. I have poured over the cooking time about 500l best Mark soup down the sink ..
    Then with muuuch Cleaningsalt 3 - 5 times through the dishwasher [highest rinsing] and then let dry. (About 3 years!)
    The first drying cycle was completed on the balcony (the bone Always nice hanging in direct sunlight).

    My neighbors loved it ...... Except for one!!!

    Just imagine the following situation.
    My wife was in the hot phase of the bonecooking in court on govermenthighschool. The City "Hof" is about 200 kilometers from Augsburg (whre we live). She stayed there during the week from Monday to Friday. The course lasted 3 years and in that time my wife wasnt seen for many neighbors anymore. I was at this time full-time home with three little children. (whatisayhiswifeisrunnawaynowonderlookthisman) were still the nicest rumors.
    Suddenly my balcony was full of bone depends on a cord strung out to dry

    One day, it rings the doorbell ........ I open and behold, two "Chipmunks" are coming up. I quote again: Good day how are you, (well, thank you), we were just in the area can we comein ...... ?? (Clear, like .. please enter) -.  my daughters hunting the cat and run the state power almost overboard --- your children are so happy ...canwepleasetalktoyourwife? (No that is prevented) one of the two in backgrond mutters "that i belive" The first again: we want now, please talk with your wife. (I said it is prevented)
    Meanwhile, we all go to the kitchen. From my kitchen is access to the balcony and there one can see the tremendous amount of bone hanging from a beam.
    Both chipmunks pale and call me an ultimativ to say where´s my wife!!
    I have tell the men from the police to the residence of my wife and the reason could be solved without the most accurate information that can be called my wife, perhaps as a cow but is unlikely to achieve this amount of bone in a single body.
    The two left my apartment rather monosyllabic

    The dried and assorted bones are now halved lengthwise on a bandsaw.
(My boss wanted to know where my wife is ).

    These shells can now, as required in planks, 4 square timbers or other basic blanks are processed.

    This was just the beginning.


    Soon we will start with the foundation
 


    Until then ....... Freeguard leave .....
 
 
greetings
 
Robert

At the request of fellow forum MSW few more pictures.
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
The whole process of this model is described at this address:
 
http://www.koga.net....php?f=7&t=45782
 
on Polish modeling forum "Koga"

Installment 4


Close-up view of planking port side. Ready for sanding.


Orlop deck cargo grating installed.


Captain’s cabin deck installed with two bed cribs and seaman chests and table.


Spar deck beams at the waist installed with carlings.


View through grate opening in spar deck to orlop with ladder.


Door hinge hardware.


Forecastle fwd bulkhead with door and hinges, early stage.


Forecastle fwd bulkhead with doors installed. Deck beams installed with LEDs. Fancy eyebrows over doors.

Cheers,
 

This is my concept of the capstan as it might have appeared. It is based somewhat on the capstan of the Wasa. The rocker pawl is a not unreasonable device for the period. The capstan will be used to assist raising the yard.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
this painting by Botticelli shows the capstan eccentrically placed in the waist

 
 
 
Dick

here are some pics of the stern gallery. I have left some blinds down and some up (coloured blue).
Dick
 

 

Hi.
Another update and whats next..
 
Planking now completed. Quite happy with the result.

 
The deck beams and supports.. Not glued or trimmed to size at this stage.

 
Side view of the planking. 

 
The stern area. Spacers not yet glued in position. The Tempory frame that I used to plank the hull with has now been cut into 3 sections. The gap's between them are for the hull supports.

 
Close up of the hull on the inside. The bow fas not yet been trimmed as I need to finish the deck before this can be done.
 
 
Another picture.....

 
Supports removed. look like the hull is holding its shape quite well.

 
Stern section. the bottom 3 planks are yet to be trimmed to size.

 
Inside the bow area. 

 
Next I need to finish the Deck and its bits.
 
Then I will start work on the Hull supports.

This should be fun. Especially as I intend to do a cutaway to show its construction.
The supports were held to the hull with huge nails made from wood and pinned with small tree nails.
 
That's it for now..
Regards Antony.
 
 
 
 
 

Hi.
A little update.
Started planking the Hull.
First strip on each side. The strips are only glued to the Bow and Stern bulkheads and to the Base.

 

 
Second plank on each side. Again only glued to the Bow and Stern Bulkheads and to the first plank.

 
Close up of the plank overlap. 

 
While waiting on the planks to dry I started on the decks beams.
All cut to shape but not in length yet. Not Glued at this point as I will cut them to length first.

 
This is the Bulk timber that runs down at each side. Laminating the two planks will hold its shape. Note Also curved up at each end.

 
Third planks in place.

 
 

 
Hoping the hull will remain in shape after removing the building jig when all the planking is done.... might make some temporary external bulkheads to help before removing.
 
That's it for now..
Regards Antony.
 
 

Hi.
Just a little on were I have researched  the information and construction methods.
 
Some very intresting reading here.
http://anthropology.tamu.edu/papers/Sasaki-MA2008.pdf
 
page 38 and 40 show the basic method of hull construction.
https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=ULh8BgAAQBAJ&pg=PA37&lpg=PA37&dq=korean+ancient+ship+building&source=bl&ots=6k05sVn3Ms&sig=fQa031fB0XcZHWltlczovosclAM&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiq-7WxsLTLAhXBWxQKHbLbBHwQ6AEIPjAK#v=onepage&q=korean%20ancient%20ship%20building&f=false
 
A drawing from this web page  https://namu.wiki/w/거북선Showing a cross section of the hull.

 
http://www.yi-sunsin.com/03ship/02_03_01.jsp This web page is in Korean.. but you can see there are a lot of differences between replica ships and models.
 
 
The timbers below are the bow timbers that were pined to the front of the ship for ramming protection. Rough carved for appearance.

 
Bow knees in place. This is just guess work But it is known that the Koreans used knees in there ship building.

 
Stern Knees.

 
A mast step. The mast on the Turtle Ship could be lowered down. and there must been some type of box to hold the mast base in place. again this is guess work. Step only placed and not yet fixed.

 

This drawing shows the mast in the lowers position. But other information shows the mast pivoting from the hull base.
 
Well that is about it for this post..
 
Regards Antony.
 

Hi.
Made a good start with the information I have..
 
A drawing of the Hold base. No keel on this ship .Flat bottom with thick planking.

 
The planking laid.

 
I've used the studding and bolts to squeeze the planks with wedges.

 
Base with cross sections ready to build up.

 
Bow and stern planking. The bow will have extra bulks of timber on the bows for ramming the enemy ships.

 
Made a jig to hold the planking in place while building. basic but that all that's needed.

 
Another view of the jig. showing the planking positions.

 
The jig is made of plylite. 

 
Will start to make the planks for the hull sides tomorrow. These are described as "L" shaped. 
Will post a photo of the making..
 
Regards Antony.
 

Hi.
Its time for a new project.. Been looking at this for sometime now.
I have made several trips to Korea and visited the war Museum in Seoul.
This was my first encounter of this ship.
There is a kit of this ship made by www.youngmodeler.com at 1/64 scale
There are also a few on E-Bay by the same manufacture.
There are no drawing of this ship and there are a lot of replicas made but most of them are very different. Very confusing.
There are a few referrals to the Turtle ship here on MSW.  including a Kit build by Wim500.
Also lots of nice photos by Grimber.
 
I intend to Build this @ 1/32 scale so the model will be big enough to include a bit of detail.
Rule 1...  No paint..
Rule 2..  Follow as much as possible the method of ship building as used in Korea. Lots of HELP wanted here.
The main timber I will be using will be English Cherry as I have a vast stock of it.
Other timber will be used to give contrast and looks.
Most of the Timber is very thick on this ship.
And the hull planking is pined downwards into the plank below.(very long tree nails) Will post a link to the information later.
I am at the stage of just starting the build planning. and laying the hull base (No keel on this ship).
Will be Building this in the Shed as its the only space big enough for the model and me.
 
That's it for now.
Thanks for looking in.
 
Regards Antony.
 
 
 
 

Between a side project to add more store capacity to my workshop (lots of extra drawers, can't have enough of them it seems) I installed the waterway.
Using card templates to determine the shapes and home build scraper to get the typical profile of the plank (see last pic). The hook and scarf joints were extra tricky as the position of the waterway it self was fixed due to their shapes relative to the hull. So I had to get them right the first time. They all were ok, although sometimes I had to fill a minor gap with  a small sliver of wood. The small piece at the bow connecting the port an starboard  waterway was challenging. 
 

 
Remco

Hello all,
 
Here is another update on my build.
 
Alexandru

Greg, I think it is better explained with pictures:

Thank you for the comments and likes.
Here is another update.
 
Alexandru

Hi Ryland,
 
Thanks for checking in.  I have not been in the shipyard since April.  This is not what I had in mind for retirement.  I have been on the road since May working on two different independent cinema complexes.  I have only been home a few weekends since May and this will keep up until February.
 
The good news is that I am doing what I love to do and the job site activity is really good for me, it is a lot more exercise than walking from the Byrnes saw to the Byrnes sander.
 
I really miss the shipbuilding process and look forward to getting back into the swing of things.  Grant and Mobbsie are doing beautiful work and their logs are the best possible guide and inspiration I could have.
 
I was sorry to miss the NRG conference but there was no way to escape from what I am doing.
 
I will try to follow along more frequently until we hit panic phase again in December.
 
I hope that all is well with you and the rest of the MSW community.
 
Talk to you soon,

Hi Mates,
 
Need some sage advice. Tried a Google search but came up empty.
 
I finally, today, used the Servo Matic (5 Stars). But I am serving a "Stockholm tarred" line with black thread. The work is ok, but I don't like the "look" of it. 
 
So my question is--Should a tarred rope also be served with the same color thread (in this case dark brown) in order to keep the look authentic?
 
As some of you know when it comes to rigging I'm a novice. This build is my first, real, attempt at rigging so the learning curve is still being climbed.  Thanks in advance for your advice.
 
Michael

Hi Mates,
 
Doing some work finishing up the three foremasts timbers as well as the upper platform. Took a detour and tried to make the mouse for the foremast stay that attaches to the bowsprit mast. Well did the first bit.
 
I wanted to try (first effort) not to just bend the rope tip over forming the ring, but instead trying to lace the end back into the rope itself. The 1/1 details look so perfect, but Hmmm…
 
----------------------------
 
Using closing tweezers unlaced a tip of the 9-ply rope
 
Added a bit of glue so as to not allow the pope unfurl any further.
 
Added some space from the glued bit and re-attached another set of closing tweezers after reversing the rope wrap
 
Used a dowel as a “ring” and after pushing the loose rope ends through the un-stranded gap, again used glue to set the rope twisting it all back into an appropriate looking weave.
 
Let the glue dry, cut off the protruding stands and then wrapped it all with thread.
 
OK now I need to actually make the “mouse bit”
 
And as always, thanks so much for dropping by and taking a look - Always so appreciated.
 
Cheers,
 
Michael
 

 

Hi Mates,
 
just a quick FYI - post.
 
I needed some more blocks and rope so went to Syren's site. Chuck has added several size cleats. Look really nice.
 
Cheers,
 

Bagged it!!!   Still needs a bit of work to strengthen, probably some knees as this is pretty flimsy.  I suspect the planking will help but I'd rather keep Murphy away....
 
First.. the deconstruction... cleaned out the debris and shaped it a bit better.
 

 
Then attached the framing.   This is where the problems hit... not that flexible and didn't get the shape of the existing frames just right.  Also, the mortises on the existing frames crumbled.. could be the wood, could be me.  And broke several frames filing and cutting them in.  Gave it up, cleared off the damaged areas and glued it in place.
 

 
Clamps removed and tarffrail set into position.  It'll need a bit of fitting shaping and all the char removed but I'll hold off until this is completely planked.
 

 
Looking a lot farther ahead in this area, will be the carvings.  Still sorting out what the NMM plans really show and also what was common in the French frigates of the time.  I suspect there will be some trade-offs because what Hahn shows would be really tiny.   Not sure if they eyeball are up to it even with magnification.   We'll see.
 
I'm going to let this sit overnight and cure out completely while looking at other things needed and maybe making the knees.  I think where the stern is now looks 100% better than where I started.   Every step is a learning step or so it seems and this way is a darn sight easier than the way Hahn did it.

Thanks for the "likes" and comments.. 
 
An update..  the stern.    I'm going to paraphrase a line from a speech by John Kennedy about the Apollo program.  I think it fits with model ships...   "We do things not because they are easy but because they are hard".   I had the full quote sitting on my desk at work for many years.  I finally dug it out of the box and now have it again in place to remind me.
 
Anyway, so much for philosophy today but you'll understand it down this post a bit...      Here's the step by step...
 
I glued the previously cut light frames over the ebony filled opening for the 3 deadlights.   I made a scraper and scraped the lower molding strip to the profile on the plans.  The boxwood molding was mildly edge bent with heat and glued and secured into position with clamps.


 
I then turned to the next step, the glazed lights.  I checked locally for mica from gem/mineral shops locally.  All the locals were are the kind that sell "new age" crystals and cut stones for the chanting brigade.  So.. Google is my friend... I find bags of mica sheets but... no guarantee that any of the sheets in the bags would be clear.  Scratch that.  Back to Google..  started calling all the shops within a 200 mile radius.  No clear except one place... and it was a 10 pound chunk.  Yikes!!!
 
Time to fall back to Plan "B"... liquid glazing.  I used it and glazed the 4 lights following directions... and they warped badly.  Cut 4 more using the Deathstar (I guess scratchbuilding is called the "darkside" for a reason    ) and modified the method.  I applied the glazed, put it between two 1/4" plates of glass over night.  The next morning, I took off the top glass and let it sit until the glazing was clear and then the lights started to warp.  Put the glass plate back on and let it sit for 24 hours.  Success!!!!
 
I glued on the lights and added the ebony strips between them as there aren't faux columns between them, just plain wood.
 

 
The next steps will be to make and install the mold strip above the lights, and add the ebony planking for the rest of the transom. The lower mold strip needs to be trimmed back and the inside of the transom needs to be planked.  Then I can add the taffrail.  They do look better in real life than in macro.
 
To be continued.....

Janet, good news you are recovering from something so drastic. It´s good to hear about you again - hope to see new pictures of your work as soon as u can bring them. Best wishes in your recovery.

Janet, good news you are recovering from something so drastic. It´s good to hear about you again - hope to see new pictures of your work as soon as u can bring them. Best wishes in your recovery.

Janet, good news you are recovering from something so drastic. It´s good to hear about you again - hope to see new pictures of your work as soon as u can bring them. Best wishes in your recovery.

Hi Vivian
I too struggled with my sails,i did not use the sailcloth in the kit i bought mine at a show,however i know
Cornwall model model boats sell more suitable cloth.I made several sets before i was resonably satisfied,i
studied a number of books until i found a way to make them.So first i washed the cloth in warm water to remove
any starch and this also shrunk the cloth quite a bit,then i cut the pattern out leaving about 12mm all round tried
the pattern on the mast to make any adjustments.I then stuck it to a window with tape i then stuck the cloth over
top,then i traced the pattern on to the cloth,then using a weak mix of white glue i edged all round the pattern
wherever i had to cut (i made my border only 3mm wide) when dry cut out using your modelling knife,then using
a fairly hot iron i ironed the border down, got out my sewing m/c and just sewed all around the border,the sailcloth
seams i just sewed on.Obviosly this is not the way sail- maker would but the sails look reasionable but i think
adding sails to a Chinese Junk is justified.
 
Hope this is of help Vivian.
Regards Janet
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