CaptMorgan

Today, I added a few more frames.

 

Upper hull sanding and fairing has been completed so I masked off and starting prepping the gunports for paint.
First any little gaps in and around the ports were filled with filler and then sanded gently back and then two coats of Tamiya surface primer was applied, next up will be painting the ports in red ochre, then fitting the frieze panels and finally to complete the lower hull sanding.

 

Headrails on and they look pretty darn good! Onward!
 

After a short break, I made progress.
I finished all the perpendicular frames on the starboard side.
Now I'm preparing for the aft frames.

Hey guys
My weekend was all about building
deadwood and the aft cant frames.
There was lots of sanding, testing, sanding, testing...
I just hope everything will be okay after the final fairing.
And I hope the wing transoms finally fall into place properly, too.
But that will happen after I've framed the starboard side.

 

Transoms being faired in.
 

 

Started chapter 10.   The rudder is first thing.
 
The usual treatment for rudder.  It is laser cut and etched on both sides with some lines for the ironwork and to simulate the two parts of the rudder.   The laser char is removed from all edges until its pretty clean.
 
Then the protective strip on the aft side is shaped and glued into position.  But dont add the bolts yet.   In addition, add the protective strip along the bottom of the rudder too. (1/16" x 5/16") The rudder must be shaped first with a taper.  It tapers thinner from the top of this protective strip (1/16" x 5/16") down to the bottom on the aft side.   And from the forward side towards the aft edge as well.  I am sure you guys have seen this before yet so many kit builds still have a massively thick rudder.  The forward edge is also beveled where the rudder hinges will be...again you have probably seen this detail before.  Once the rudder is shaped and I applied some wipe-on-poly, I was able to add the simulated bolts with some 20lb. black line.
 


 
 
Now it was time to do a test fit on the model and see how things look.  You want to pay close attention to the height of rudder head.  It will pass all the way through and into the rudder cover on the poop deck.
 
This is why we didnt glue that top on the rudder cover yet.  If the height looks good, you can actually mark where the tiller will be inserted into the rudder head.   See below.  I did bevel the top of the rudder head but it doesnt really matter since this will be all covered up anyway.  After marking for the tiller I drilled part way through the rudder head with a 3/32" but.
 

 
Here is a view from below...everything seems to fit nicely so I can proceed with the ironwork.  Notice how I removed the brace on the build board but left the strips for the keel slot.  The rudder sits in there good and this will be a great help when trying to get those rudder hinges on.  It holds everything nice and steady.   You just have to make sure everything is sittin properly in that slot and pushed all the way down to the baseboard.
 

Milestone reached as this completes chapter 9.  All of the deck fittings except for the binnacle have been completed.   The last fitting was the rudder cover.   Again very straight forward.  All parts are laser cut.
 
To begin you must build the jig.  Just glue the part labeled "jig" on top of the square with the etched outline.
 

Then start adding the sides of the rudder cover.  Start with the back panel.  All corners will be mitered or beveled.  I just eye-balled it with a sanding stick.
 

Work your way forward and then finish up with the front panel.  Remember not to glue the rudder cover to the jig!!!
 
In addition, you can build the lid or top of the rudder cover.  It is in two layers as shown.  But dont glue it on yet.  This wont be done until after the rudder is installed and the tiller is added.  I did go ahead and paint them red however.
 


You can test fit this on deck...but notice the small step behind the rudder cover.   This is the step for the ensign staff.   This must be added first.  I have laser cut a bunch for you as they are small.  You must bevel the back side to fit snug against the transom.   The front side should be beveled as well to sit flush against the rudder cover.  You can glue them in position, but remember not to glue the top on for the rudder cover yet.  If you do ... you will never get that till inserted into the rudder head.
 

But you can sit the top in position and nobody will know it isnt glued on yet!!
 

Thats it...all fittings completed.   To begin chapter 10 I will be making the rudder and tiller.  Fun times.
 

Fire Heart
 
Here I fellow the instruction steps with no major issue. I opted for the beaten up option. I used a Touch red geranium marker to color the bricks and soot and dark rust powders to season the bricks. I used the flour trick to enhance the mortar joints. I painted the hood with my go to Admirality's metal black and finished with soot and rust powder. A couple of vies below:


 
Next is the aft platform beams and forthcoming Chapter 5. 
 
 
 

I hope my fellow Speedwell builders will allow me this indulgence.   The breast rail at the fore end of the poop deck is actually quite plain on the contemporary model.  I usually try to faithfully keep my models to historically correct details but I couldnt resist.  The original draft for the Sloop Fly which is her sister has a very detailed and fancy rail quite different than the plain one on Speedwell.  I have decided to go with that rendition.  It is made in the usual fashion for my fittings.  Nothing earth shattering.  They are just laser cut pieces in layers.  The top rail for example is made by sandwiching 3 thin layers together.  The top and bottom layers are just .025 thick.  The center layer is a robust 1/32" thick.  I still thinned down the top and bottom layers even more after gluing them up as a sandwich.   
 
The only thing that is really important here is to make sure that the two outer columns are lined up with their partners below on the bulkhead between the windows.  I also had had to take care in forming the curve on the column next to the dome roof.  It had to be sanded to fit nicely around that curve and sit flush against it.  The close-ups are brutal and yes I have a lot of paint touch up in my future.
 
The top of the rail is painted black as was done on the contemporary model while the remaining areas are painted red.  Only one fitting remains and that is the rudder trunk cover.   I will make that next.  I will add a binnacle as well, but leave that for the next chapter after the rudder is installed.   
 

 

 

 

Chapter 1 has now been completed with all framing done.
Lots of sanding and fairing of the hull has begun, this is going to take time and make a lot of mess.
Then Chapter 2 will start with the painting of the gunports and installation of the frieze panels.
 



 

Fore Platforms
 
I first prepared paper templates of the lower and upper fore platforms and tried to position them on the model. It revealed the I needed to do a bit more fairing at the bow for the platforms to sit at the proper height. Once the firing was completed, I started the beam construction.  I tried to use Chuck's height gauge, but found it tricky to position. Instead, I use cardboard height guides for each beam as shown below. 
 

This approach worked well for me. Next photo shows the completed beam structure. 
 

The platforms were assembled on a flat surface and their contour adjusted to fit my model. Their shape is virtually identical to the plan. 
 

Proceeding this way makes it easier to sand the planking and to cut the scuttle lids accurately. The platforms were then glued on the beam structure. A light coat of WOP was applied to enhance the planking joints. 
 

I then completed the breast hooks and riding bitts. The next photo shows the completed fore platforms (riding bitts not glued). Hopefully every thing is sitting at the right height and positioned correctly. 
 

 
Next is the fire heart and then Chapter 5!
 
 
 

A few small accessories:
 

Its really easy...simply drill a small hole just big enough to accept whatever size fishing line you are using.  Then insert the fishing line into the hole.  It should be a press fit if you drilled the correct size hole.  No glue is needed.  Then take a sharp straight razor or even a #11 blade and slice it off.  But dont make it flush to the wood.  Slice it so it stands proud just a little bit.
 
Here are some various examples on the coamings and on the keelson. 
 



 
 I also use this method for treenailing but in that case I do slice it off flush with the planking. See below.  You can select black fishing line or even a dark brown for treenails.   The trick is just not going too large.  I believe the treenails below are 10lb or 15lb....I have to look back.  The bolts can be larger at 25lb...30lb...or even 40lb for larger keel bolts.  For example look at all the bolts in the frames.   They are I believe 30lb black fishing line.
 
 
 


 

Lots of dust on the model...maybe today I will clean it all up.
 
Anyway...the bowsprit step/Belfry was up next. At this point none of the fittings are glued on deck.   I am not yet sure if I will paint it red or leave it natural.  The contemporary model has it painted red but the paint is so worn and light on that model it all pretty much blends in to everything else.  So I will wait until all of the fittings are made to determine whether I paint this.  I know the heel of of bowsprit inboard will be painted red so I will wait to see if painting the bsprit step red would be too much.
 

 
Here are most of the elements laser cut for the bstep/belfry.  There is a bunch of faking it on this fitting but in the end you wont be able to tall.  First I cleaned these Cedar pieces of laser char.  Dont be shy here.  It will all come off and look clean but takes time and care.  I used some 220 grit and 320 grit sanding sticks and even a sharp #11 blade.   You can see one side of the bstep all cleaned of char.  The other has yet to be cleaned and shaped.   You must finish the top and match the shaped timberhead.  For this a sharp blade was used to make a series of "stop cuts" and then basically carve the two sides that needed shaping.  This was after char clean up.
 
The center where the bowsprit will be stepped was cleaned and assembled.  Note the aft side of the step.  I have inserted a small laser cut square to simulate the tenon of the bowsprit.  Its just easier and cleaner this way.  Leave it standing proud a bit.  The forward side sill has a nice deep mortice for the actual tenon of the bowsprit.
 
Then there were the belfry elements.  This includes a length of twisted square wire.  This will be proved.  Yes this is commercially available.   You must use the plan to shape it which is shown.   Then blacken it.  The other elements are also shown.
 

Moving along...the step is now completed and drilled with simulated bolts.  Once again these were black fishing line (30 lb).  Note the laser etched seam which should go on the outside if each side piece...dont mix up the side pieces when assembling.  I also drilled the holes for the wire belfry.   That wire was blackened.  The stock for the bell was completed at this time.  Some laserboard elements simulate the ironwork.  I glued the top on first and then the two faces.   Some 24 gauge wire was inserted into the ends of the stock.  But you can attach this to the wire frame anyway you wish.  I knew it would be a challenge to drill through the frame for most so once again this is simplified.  I just filed some slots on the inside of each frame of the twisted wire at the height needed. I used the plans to establish where.  These tiny grooves were enough of a slot to slide and glue the belfry stock in position.  Its pretty secure.   Its not under any pressure so it should be safe and secure.
 
Before doing so however, I added the handle to the top of the bell stock.  I just bent it according to the plans.   I used 22 gauge blk wire.  You can add a tiny length of rope if want to.  I have decided not to as they always seem to hang left or right or curl up and that annoys me.  The bell was simply glued to the underside of the stock.   Then it was glued within the frame as described.
 

 
There is a little bit of cleaned up needed as my fingers must have been dirty.  But this is the result.
 

 

And finally shown on deck but not glued in position yet.  The companionway hood is also not glued in position yet.  No hurry with that.  This completes the fcastle deck fittings.  Now we start the gun deck fittings.  Ignore the dust!!!
 

 
Comments and questions are always welcome!!!
 
Chuck

Work continues on the model.  I am working on the hood for the fcastle hatch currently.  But I realized I hadnt yet posted an image of my new workspace for building the actual models.  This is probably the largest work bench I have ever had.  Its actually a ping pong table.  LOL
 
BUT its a pleasure to have such a large uncluttered surface to build on top off.   Speedwell at 3/8” scale is a very big model but it looks puny on my bench.
 

 
Oh and these new and inexpensive LED lights from Amazon are a real treat.  I have them on the forward side of the table and they can be manipulated in so many ways.  Its also very bright (up to 6000 lumens) and can be adjusted in intensity and other colors etc. 
 
In addition I have about 30 green cutting mats many are large and many are small.   I bought these for when my local club members come by for a workshop.  So everyone gets a cutting mat.   But in the meanwhile I can cover the whole front side of the space to keep everything safe and clean.
 
So now I can start being productive on my models again….until I am
compelled to beat my high score in pinball.  Which isnt that high actually.
 
Chuck

I didn't know how to make the draught marks on the bow; I had the idea of using old lead alloy printing type that I had used to cast the guns. This is the result, still to be finished.
 




 

Stbd side channel wales done today, except for the forward upper plank. After I get a few more planks attached to the front I will pull the forward jigs and fair out the forward portion of the inner hull and then permanently install the beam and finish the last two planks. 
 

Been working on Portland all day. I started by gluing on the planking strips that I took off the 3D model, these were derived off of the 2D planking being projected onto the 3D hull and then flattening the surfaces and turning them into a printable 2D document. So far they are working as planned.




I stated planking the first belt from the frieze panel down, this consists of two planks and took most of the day. 

I decided to run the planks right over the gunports as they won’t have doors over them, I can just sand the planks flush right to the frame. This really makes it easy to get a smooth running strake.

I can simply carve out the port rough and file them down carefully.

Once all the ports were opened up I block sanded the whole side down with 150/220 and then taped off that belt and sealed it with WOP to protect it, this will also allow me to paint the ports again with ease as any paint on the planks won’t soak in and will just wipe off with some alcohol leaving a perfect sharp paint edge around the port.

I couldn’t resist any longer so I glued the friezes on, the fit was pretty good and I only have to make a few adjustments to the document. Overall I’m satisfied with how they turned out. I should have molding scrapers coming soon that are specifically designed to match Portlands molding profiles taken from the drawings and painting, it will be nice to tie up the blank spaces with some nice boxwood molding.

I am actually in a comfortable position with my inventory so I could start spending time working on the model again.  I cant tell you how good that feels.
 
I am not doing any heavy stuff yet...but its a start.  I had time to finish rigging those last four cannon on the port side.   That alone was a great thing to have completed. That actually finished up chapter 8.
 
Its a good thing because chapter 9 is where the real fun begins.  Its basically all about those fun little deck fittings.  So I started slow..
 

 
There are four ladders to be built.   Two leading to the poop, and two leading to the fcastle deck.  These were made exactly like the others we have made for speedwell.  Everything is laser cut.  I just cleaned the char and assembled them.  One note however...because of the deck roundup, the ladders leading to the poop deck need some tweaking after being built.  The bottom of each side was left a tad longer so you can sand the inboard side shorter.  You will need to do this so your ladder doesnt slant when you place it against the bulkhead.  You want it vertical with the columns of the bulkhead behind them.  So that inboard side will need its bottom edge shortened slightly.
 
Its the little details.
 

Here is the shorter ladder up to the fcastle deck...and you can see the guns that I finally finished rigging.  Those are my Swiss Pear color 3D printed blocks used for the guns this time.  I switched them out to try both colors.  I think I will fully rig her with the Swiss Pear blocks now that I see them on the model.

In addition, I also finished the stack for the fire hearth...I had built this a while back when I made the fire hearth but it must have gotten lost during the move.  So I made a new one...I will also include those parts in chapter 9 in case anyone loses theirs as well.  Nothing difficult here...fake it till you make it.  We wont be using a real coaming here.  Its just a laser cut boxwood square basically.  Sand the char off and apply some WOP.  Then center the hearth stack where the laser etched reference is and you are finished.  I also knocked off the top edge all around this simulated coaming.  No hard edges for me!!
 

Here is what the stack looks like on the model.   
 

And here is an overall shot of the progress to date although I have some paint touch-up to do and some dust clean-up.  But its really nice to making some progress again.  Next up I will be finishing up the fcastle deck fittings.
 

Officially underway on chapter 2 now, I have all the Gunports primed, block sanded and painted. Tomorrow I will start milling wood and begin planking from the main wale up.

Hi, guys
Thanks for the comments and likes!
After a short break, I finished installing all the perpendicular frames on the port side today.
It went quite easily and quickly since I had already cleaned them of char beforehand. I was just fine-tuning little things,
such as the area that sits on the keel is flat
and free of char, because even glue on char doesn't hold.
And here is the result.
Now I'm off to the heavier part to prepare the deadwood and the aft cant frames.

Tops:
 

so the framing fun began