KenW
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Thanks Alistair and Bob for the encouraging comments. I uploaded a couple of photos of my Armed Virginia Sloop on the completed models gallery. Cheers. -
The replacement center keel from Model Expo still has not arrived; although they say it was shipped on July 9th. The binnacle in the Fair American is also made from dye cast metal. It doesn’t look very good to me so I decided to make my own from left over walnut planks from the Armed Virginia Sloop. I based my design on rafine’s and added an extra drawer that can hold charts and stuff. There probably should be some kind of vents on the back or roof since I assume that there were lanterns behind those “triangle” shaped doors. I may be changing the overall “look” of the Fair American with these changes, but I guess I can always use the metal binnacle, as well as the metal bilge pumps if necessary. Anyway, I wish my center keel replacement part would finally get here so I can start building this kit in earnest.
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Thanks. My thoughts were the same as yours. I remembered that this is a model created from a model. I will have to give it more consideration. I am not at that point in my build yet, so I do have time. I also agree with you and Figuerres that two stairs and two doors makes things pretty crowded. Thanks again.
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I don't know what it means to be "photo-etched". I will have to do some research here. Thanks.
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Does anyone have a way to get that fancy scroll work onto the stern? My hand is not steady enough and the Fair American does not come with metal scroll work that I can just glue on. I would need the letters for "Fair . American ." as well (although I can probably get decals for that). Thanks.
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Ed - I'm glad Augie answered your question since I haven't gotten that far yet on my model. Also, I forgot to credit Aliluke with the design of the bilge pumps. His Armed Virginia Sloop model is outstanding! Still waiting on the replacement center keel from Model Expo. Cheers.
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I have a question regarding the placement of the guns. I see that you have only one stairway and one door into the cabin. Using the plans I see that the aft guns block the doors; and firing the guns would completely destroy the stairs. Also, your aft gun is not as close to the cabin 'panel' as the plans show. How did you determine where to place the guns? And was your center keel the correct length as per the plans? Thanks.
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The replacement center keel from Model Expo still has not arrived. The Fair American kit provides bilge pumps made from dye cast metal. I didn’t like the look of them and think that wooden pumps would be much better. So I constructed two pumps based on the ones from the Armed Virginia Sloop. I started with a ¼ inch dowel cut to a length of 3/8 inches. I used 3/16” .020 walnut planking split in two around the dowel to give the look of a barrel. The handle bracket was made from 1/8” square walnut stock with a notch cut in the top. The handles were 1/16” walnut rounded from about halfway to one end and leaving a nob or ball at that end. I made the straps and U-bracket from 1/16” strips cut from a manila folder. I find it is better to paint the manila strips before gluing. Finally, a spout was cut from 1/16” square walnut stock with a gouge cut into the top. A photo of the pumps is attached below. Next I plan on replacing the dye cast metal binnacle. Again, a wooden binnacle will look much better.
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Thanks. That should work. I do have the "More Reply Options" box.
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I am still waiting for the replacement center keel from Model Expo so I decided to make the cannon carriages. It should be easier for me to correctly frame the gun ports, when I reach that point in the building process, by having some completed carriages. The gun carriages are made from laser cut parts: 2 side parts, a bottom part that contains the axles and 4 trucks. Unfortunately, all the parts are made from basswood which splits easily. I had 3-4 axles break off and one truck split apart. These parts are very small and do not glue back together easily so I just glued trucks over where the axles were and cut a new truck (which was not easy) from spare basswood. The motto here is that it is not the deficiencies of the kit or the mistakes made which are important, but the strategies created to overcome the issues and enable model building to continue. Anyway, I attach photos of the carriages in various stages of completion. The barrel is not glued as yet and still needs to be painted black. The trunnion was made from a toothpick slimmed down. I made quoin beds and quoins; however I may not use the quoins depending on the height of the barrel vs. the gun port opening. Thanks.
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Actually there is and "Edit" Box on the post, but only after it has been posted. Does that mean that you post the text, and then edit the post to add the images? Thanks.
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I have just started my build log of a model in progress. I want to add images to my blog but and totally baffled as to how it is done. The first statement in these instructions is: 1. Open the Edit Box by clicking the "Edit" at the bottom of the Post : Yet there is NO Edit box and the bottom of my post. Can someone supply me with a set of instructions on how to attach a photo of my model to my blog? Thanks. (NOTE: There is no Edit Box at the bottom of this post.)
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Hi Augie. I just checked out your MS Syren build log and the Syren looks a lot like the Fair American. I will probably reference your site for helpful tips and advice. I may even ask some questions. Thanks.
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Just completed the Model Shipways, "Armed Virginia Sloop", and while I was pleased with the result, I can see a lot of "mistakes". So I want to see if I can do a model without the old problems (only new ones). I chose the Fail American because it seems more difficult than the AVS, but not too much more difficult. It has a second mast, more complicated bow and stern and it is squared rigged. After my parts survey, I see that the center keel is not in agreement with the plans. This problem has been seen by other MSW builders. I contacted Model Expo and am waiting for the replacement center keel. However, the keel part's length is NOT about a half inch short, so that problem has been fixed. While waiting for the new center keel, I decided to practice on the kit supplied center keel since on my last model I had problems with creating the rabbet. So I removed the center keel and bulkheads and lightly removed the laser burn discoloration. I redrew the bearding line to be more in line with the size of the majority of the bulkheads. I did not make any changes to the bulkheads! I did modify the kit supplied center keel if needed. I cut the rabbet and was pleased; I felt is was much better than on my previous model. So I am happy with the practice attempt and now just have to wait for the replacement center keel.
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Thanks. You should write a book. I can't wait to try this method; it sounds better than Bob Hunt's method. Thanks again. BTY: What model are you working on now?
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I have one more question. I believe that you had a method of tying/creating the coils of line that are attached to various cleats, timberheads, etc. Would it be possible to remember how that was done? Thanks.
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I am using a hair straightener - set on low heat and only one pass - and the kit rope is behaving much better. I still like the look of the morope, however. Thanks for your help. Cheers
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Thanks. I am doing the rigging now (Chapter 9 in the practicum). Now I am worried since I am using the kit supplied rope. I will try morope on my next model. Thanks again.
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Your method of "bouy making" was very helpful. So I would like to ask for another trip down memory lane and your mothod for rigging the cannons. I had a log of trouble with the kit supplied rope being stiff. When I tried to fasten the blocks to the cheeks and hull, the rope would constantly "pull" them off. My rigging looks sloppy while yours looks tight and proper. Any help I can use of future models would be appreciated. Thanks.
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As someone in the middle of building the AVS, I wish I had access to the full blog, with your comments. I found your comments to be as valuable as the practicum. Thanks.
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