KenW
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Your cabin looks great. Will the inside of the cabin be visible? Through the windows, or will portions of the deck be removed? Your work is the best. -
Thanks Gary and I hope I can be of help. I am still not comfortable with the tactics for planking the lower hull. As you see in a previous posting, measuring the distance at each bulkhead, for me, didn’t provide a real plan of action. For now, I think the key is in the bands placed along the hull. They must “look right”; although that is a very subjective criteria. I only have one row of planks applied and the garboard strake is still not glued. But a photo of the bow portion is attached. I will continue to watch your blog to see if you come up with a better plan of action.
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I am using 1/16 inch planking for the hull below the wales (holly planks). That is the thickness according to the plans. I'm still not comfortable with the process of determining the width of those planks. But I have a plan and will see how it goes. Good luck with your work. Cheers.
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Looking at the plans: I note on Sheet #5, that the outboard bulwark planking above the black strake is 1/32 inches thick. (The inboard bulwark planking is also 1/32.) However, the hull planking below the wales is 1/16 inches thick. My impression was that the walnut planks were to be used only if you decided to double plank the hull. Like rafine, I ordered holly planks. I want to leave the wood unpainted but still have a color scheme that matches the Rodger's model.
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Thanks to Russ for his helpful reply. My plan for the lower hull planking is as follows: I will leave the garboard strake clamped into place and take measurements of each bulkhead from the garboard strake to the wale. My measurements of the aft, a midships and forward bulkheads show that bulkhead 15 has the largest distance. Using the plank width of 3/16 inches, there will be 18 planks. At bulkhead 8 (a midships), the planks will have to be trimmed to 5/32 inches in order to fit 18 planks. And at Bulkhead 2, the planks will be 1/8 inches. I will use the artists tape to divide the hull into 4 sections of 4 to 5 planks each. Based on the ‘look’ of the tapes, I will make adjustments. Each strake will consist of 3 or 4 planks about 5 or 6 inches long. Hopefully, I will only have to spile the planks at the bow since I didn’t order any extra wide planks. I hope I am on the right track with this plan of action.
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The order of holly planking has arrived and I have started to plank the lower hull. On my last model I was not concerned with planking technique since I just gave it many coats of paint. This time I want to do it right by using the holly, which is about the correct color, and leaving the planking unpainted and clearly visible. However, I can’t seem to get the hang of “lining out the hull.” I have several tutorials; and am using David Antscherl’s as my base with reference to Keith Harris’. The garboard strake has been fitted and clamped (but not glued at this point). I divided bulkheads 2, 8 and 15 in half and ran thin artist tape along this mid line of the hull. The problem is that the tape is shaped like a ‘V’. I can’t see how this will work. I estimate that even if I straighten the tape out, I will require at least 3 drop strakes and 2 stealers. I am hoping for a ‘eureka moment’. But lacking that some advice or comments would be welcome. (Actually the photo doesn’t look so bad, but it looks weird in real life.)
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The bow has been completed. I think this was the hardest element of the build so far. But it looks acceptable. The head rails were cut from spare 1/8 inch thick material since I couldn’t get that steep bend from a plank. I scored the edge with an x-acto knife and awl. The middle rail was created from two 1/16 inch thick planks and laminated together. They were cut from planks ¼ inch in width to prevent the need for an edge bend. While following GaryKap’s blog, I read an entry from wq3296 which pointed out that the door to the cabin is only 3 feet tall according to the model’s scale. I can’t see the Captain being forced to stoop that low to enter his quarters. I’m considering modifying the entry to a companion way with a sliding top. That way I don’t have to make extensive renovations. I am wondering if that type of entry is accurate for the period. I could also have a companion way top that opens upward on hinges. I’m not sure which is better. I welcome comments/opinions.
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I see you have been making great progress. I never seem to be able to spend as much time in the shipyard as I want each day. Anyway - I also found the waterway bend was not easy. I used my wife's steam iron and it worked pretty well, but I had to sand out the "folds" in the wood. So I didn't use any scarf joints. I think I soaked the wood for a couple of days. Your decal name plate looks good. You can use the same technique for the scroll work - just make a scan from the plans and adjust the size. As for the companion way, I was thinking of using a sliding top over the door. (Not sure that is the best wording.) That is what my father's boat had, but I don't know if it is period correct. Be happy to get some input there. Keep up the good work.
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Wow; I never tested the scale of those doors! And even though I only installed one, it seems it is way too small. I like the companion way idea. I don't think I want to tear out my upper deck to create a new door, however. Maybe I can just add a companion way cover without actually changing anything. I will have to think about it. I will be interested in seeing how you handle this. Cheers
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I echo everyone's comments. Your workmanship is unbelievable. I also like the syringe for the glue. Great skill all round.
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That is a great idea. Wish I had thought of it. You are definitely well on your way. Cheers.
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Thanks russ and KennyH78. In answer to your questions, Kenny: I scanned the stern view from the plans and created .jpg files for both the name and the scroll. I inserted the files into Windows Word and printed the result onto decal paper. However, the decal paper I used was obtained from "www.modeltransoftware.com/decalpaper.html". It seems this paper is unique. Printers don't have white ink and white areas are clear when printed on most decal papers. This paper is different in that the white areas of the decals actually dry white. You have to follow a special procedure (using canola oil) to get the white areas to show up clear. I was going to have the ship name and the fancy scrolling be white, but I noticed that on the photos of the Fair American model at Annapolis, those areas were gold. So I made a last minute change. One thing - with this paper do NOT use solvents if the edges of the decal curl. Follow the instructions and use cigarette lighter fluid. Good luck.
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I’m model building with snow falling outside my window. Very picturesque. And I’m glad I’m in where it is warm. Outside it is 20 degrees fahrenheit or -7 degrees celsius. I completed the stern with all of its fancy art work. I attach photos showing the progress of the effort. When painting the curtains, I tried to build up the paint to simulate the folds in the ‘fabric’. The name and scroll work are decals that I made from a scan of the plans. The word “Fair” is a bit faded, so I may redo it. It doesn’t look as perfect as I imaged it would, but then, whatever does?
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Keep in mind that the Fair American is only my second build. But, I had the guns built and I used them when I constructed the gun ports. Also, the gun barrels can be raised and lowered somewhat. In addition, I am not going to glue the barrels to their carriage until I am ready to install the guns. Just in case. Cheers
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I am pleased to see another build of the Fair American and a build log to accompany it. I also have been using Bob's log as my practicum. My keel and bulkheads were NOT plywood either. I guess, as Bob says, it is a new thing. I look forward to following your progress. Ken
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What type of solder do you use? Is it easy to acquire; along with a soldering iron? Never soldered before. Thanks.
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I used a hair straightener that I bought from the local pharmacy. Just let the straightener get too hot. Worked fine.
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Believe me, close up the paint job doesn't look as good as the photos. But, it may be the best I can do.
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I hope all had a Happy New Year; and wish all the best for 2014. Now I am back in the ‘shipyard’. I finished the port side of the outer bulwark planking and wales. I also added the cap rails (both on the fancy rail and the main rail) and painted according to the plans – except I painted the inner side of the rails black. It was all pretty straight forward except I have to improve the line between the black and gold painting.
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I'm really impressed with those windows. Your craftsmanship is outstanding. Gives me something to strive after. Great work.
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I finished the starboard side of the outer bulwark planking and wales, and there were several problems. I had almost completed the planking above the black strake when I realized I had used 1/16th planks when they should be 1/32nd. So I had to tear everything down and start again. The thinner planks do look better; but I left the thicker planks as the door on the unused gun port. I like the look better, even though I realize it’s probably not historically accurate. Also, the fashion piece had to be redone since the first one was too small and not adequate at all. On the finished starboard planking, I left the new fashion piece and the wales extending beyond the counter. They will be trimmed once the counter planks have been added. The ochre planks are boxwood and I will leave them unpainted. That is a big step from my last (and first) build; so I am pleased with the results so far. Ship building definitely slows down during the holiday season.
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Hi Russ. I'm interested in your modified close pin clamps. Are they made by simply gluing a square piece of wood to one side of the pin? I assume you can then push up as well as in. Thanks.
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I have yet another question: On your quarter badges, you have the window divided into 4 frames. Did you use the two unused window frames from the stern? If not, how did you create them? Thanks.
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Thanks. I am using a 74. Can you order just one size from someplace? Or, do you have to order a whole set for just one bit? Inquiring minds want to know.
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Thanks russ. I attach another photo that takes a closer look at the treenails. They aren't perfect, but probably not noticeable to anyone who doesn't build models.
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