KenW
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I finished the planking the deck and drilled all the treenails. I decided to follow the color scheme of the Roberts Collection model; at least to a point. Chuck Passsaro has placed photos from his trip to Annapolis in the Gallery section under, “Contemporary Models from Museums and Private Collections.” I should go down to Annapolis myself since it isn't that far. Next up is to plank the outer hull along with the wales. You can get to Chuck’s photos from here: ‘http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/448-fair-american-rogers-collection-annapolis/’.
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What size drill do you use for the treenails? I may be using one that is too small since I keep breaking it. Thanks.
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The cabin front is created. I followed the plans that show a planked housing and the door is my own design. For the window ‘glass’, I used the window from window envelopes. Since all my monthly bills come in window envelops, I have an unlimited supply. The glue called, Krazy Glue, sold here in the states, holds the ‘glass’ in place. I put the molding across the entire front because, to me, it looks like a coaming that keeps water out of the cabin. That means that the door must open inwards and that means the hinges are on the other side of the door.
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Thanks. I will see if I can find acetate sheet here. Also, I will research the Uhu glue to see if it is available here. I appreciate your help.
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What is the best thing to use for windows? I don't like wax paper because it is too 'foggy'; and I don't like the clear plastic wrap. I think it should be something in-between. Thanks.
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Russ: I agree, the treenail problems will probably go unnoticed. This brings up the question as to why we bother with treenails in the first place. Bob: I agree with you as well. You can always do with more sanding. Thanks.
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All the treenail holes are drilled, the deck is sanded, and the result is satisfactory. It is not perfect due to two oversights I made earlier in the building process. Where the deck planks meet, one of the planks is not always the same height as the other. This must be due to an error in my process of cutting and squaring the planks. Also, when the two planks meet, the join must be in the exact center of the bulkhead. A center line should be drawn on top of each bulkhead. If these issues are corrected, the tape used to line up the treenail holes can simply follow the plank joins. Next up is the housing; and there is always more sanding that can be done.
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Thanks for the tips. I am definitely not going to do the whole deck in one sitting. I did two beam lines and just tried to align the treenail holes with the plank ends. The first line is off, however. It is closest to the bow, so there will be a lot of stuff covering the error. I will try the tape method. Thanks again.
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I finished the deck planking and thanks to the helpful advice of Bob, Russ and Alistair, it doesn’t look bad. So, I am ready to drill the ‘treenails’. I did some tests and I am using the pine plastic wood from DAP since my local hardware store doesn’t carry the Minwax wood filler products. The color looks good, so I’m satisfied with that. I can see that I will be drilling a lot of holes in the next few days.
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I 'marked' the edges of the deck planks with pencil to simulate the caulking between planks. Marking one edge of each plank is definitely better - looks the same and helps keep your fingers cleaner. Have fun with your first build.
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WOW. Thanks Alistair, Russ and Bob. I will try to use less glue, of course; but not using the damp paper towel/cloth sounds like great advise. And, I will wait to do my sanding and scraping. Also I will only use the pencil on one side. Thanks for your help and great, constructive advise. Cheers.
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Actually, that's the way I do it. It's just I keep hearing that you can 'edge bend' planks but I could never get it to work. Thanks.
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What is your technique for bending the plank for your cap rail? That is what I call a "sideways" bend, and I have not been able to accomplish it. Thanks.
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Thanks Alistair and Russ for your advise. I am using holly planks so I don't think the wood is the problem. I am using a 4D pencil on both edges; but I think my problem is with my application of the glue. I get small areas or spots of glue forced up between the planks. I try to wipe it off using a damp paper towel but the glue, along with some pencil residue, gets on my fingers and the damp towel. I am thinking I have to use even less glue and not use a damp paper towel or cloth to clean up the decks. Perhaps I can scrape off any residue with the point of a knife before sanding or scraping. Thanks again for your help.
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I began planking the deck. I finished the thicker planks; I decided not to extend these planks beyond the aft hatch. So the photo shows only the thick planks. I am not happy with how dirty the planks turn out. No matter how hard I try to keep my hands clean, I always seem to get the pencil lead on my hands and on the wood. It doesn’t seem that sanding or scraping is able to restore the nice white color of the original planks.
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After a great vacation trip with my wife, I am back in “the shipyard” completing final preparations for planking the deck. I added wide scrap wood between the bulkheads so the ends of the deck planks will have something to glue onto. I also decided to add an inboard plank because I also like the way it looks. I notice that there is no ‘treenailing’ on the inboard plank on Bob (rafine)’s model. I will have to look at some more sites to see if I want to do that or not. The big problem I had was bending the inboard plank. I have never been able to bend a plank “sideways”. Instead, I used the widest planks I could find in the scrap wood from my previous build and cut out the curved inboard plank. (If you look close you can see I needed three pieces of wood for the plank.) I didn’t want to use the wide plank the kit supplied since it will be required for the rail. Does anyone have a method of bending planks “sideways”?
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Landlubber Mike's technique for furled sails
KenW replied to Landlubber Mike's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Can you tell me the name of the fabric that Frank (riverboat) was kind enough to send you and you were able to find at your local store? Perhaps they have it in Brooklyn as well. (Also, what type of store was it?) -
I figured sail making rates might be kind of high. My daughter-in-law is talking rates that are high even with my "family discount". Since I only plan on having reefed sails, I think I will do my own; I shouldn't require too much sewing. Thanks.
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I'm enjoying watching your rigging procedures. Just a couple of questions: 1. What is a crow hitch? (vs. a cow hitch or a half hitch) 2. Is your sail maker open for business? (How much would she charge per sail?) Thanks.
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Thanks. I saw that as well. They have chains, sail material, parrels, and lots of other stuff. I've never used them, but most of the things I am interested in are pretty low price, so I may give them a try. Cheers.
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Thanks Chris. I found the Amati Cornwall site and the etched letters. I think they are too big, however. I have some dry transfers that I am going to experiment with. Cheers.
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What is the material you use for the sail? "Canvas"? Or some form of silk? Thanks.
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Here is a photo that shows the inner planking to better effect.
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Oldboy: I like the looks of your furling; it looks good. What did you use for sailing material? Do you have the bunt lines, chew lines and leech lines on your model's yards? I assume that the photos are not of the actual yard for the model. Thanks.
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I would like to have read the discussions you had with Pete Jaquith; I'm sure I would have learned a lot. I did use a waterway; but the plans show both a waterway and a coverboard. I think I may leave out the coverboard. I just haven't decided about the margin plank inboard of the waterway. I have to think about it.
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