KenW
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The inner bulwark planking is done and painted. I had trouble since the planks didn’t “want” to stay tight together. Therefore, three 1/8 inch wide planks were too ‘wide’ for the gun port openings, which are 3/8 inches high. So I used sand paper to make the planks slightly thinner. I don’t think it can be seen; and I used wood filler to fill in any places where light could be seen between planks. The next step is planking the deck. But I am still undecided about putting a plank inboard of the waterway. The instruction manual says that one should not be used since “no nibs (were) used on Fair American” since the ship is “too early for nibs”. I know that Bob used an inboard plank on his model, so I have to decide whether to follow Bob or the manual. Also, should I add a ‘covering board’? I welcome comments.
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The strip I used for the fancy rail was a 1/8 by 1/4 strip. I chose that based on a guess looking at Bob (rafine)'s blog. His upper (outer) planking had two 1/8 inch outer planks there. Since I added an extra 1/8 inch to the bulwarks to allow for larger gun ports, the top of the bulwark is the same height as that of bulkhead 16. The height of bulkhead 16 is the same as the two kit supplied pieces that form the side of the stern complex. So no filler strip was needed. In fact, the two fancy rail strips run straight from bulkhead 9 to the stern. (I don't remember if the 1/8 by 1/4 strip came in the FA kit or was left over from my last build.) I hope this helps. I look at Bob's blog daily to answer questions and help plan my next move.
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Thanks for the comments everyone. Ed: My terminology was incorrect. I added the fancy rail (there is no fair cap). Cheers.
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The basic frame of the Fair American is complete. I added the fair caps and supports for the quarter deck, as well as doing a final check of the gun ports to insure their measurements are correct. So I am ready to start planking the inner bulwarks using soaked basswood and wood glue.
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Ed: I have Bob Hunt's practicum, but I chose not to do his "kit bashing". I am using Bob (rafine)'s blog as my main guide. His model is well constructed and his build sequence seems logical and has been good so far. Thanks for your comments.
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The stern framing is done and the windows roughly positioned. I have pieces of planks that the top and bottom of the windows that they can be glued to. These pieces will need some fine tuning once they are ready for installation. In order to insure that the hole for the rudder is made in the correct place, I made the rudder. The framing is a bit rough, but it all gets covered up by the final planking. I decided not to use the two windows on the stern wings and ‘outside’ the cabin. (This decision was helped by the fact that the kit only came with six windows.) I was wondering about the center window and why it is a ‘phony’ window. Perhaps there were supports there; or the rudder gets in the way. I welcome any recommendations.
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I am in the process of framing out the stern windows. I agree with you that I will eliminate the two windows that are actually outside the cabin. (Also, the kit only came with 6 windows.) But I was wondering why the center window is a "dummy". Was there a support there or something? Why not have 5 "real" window.? Thanks. Cheers.
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Ed - Thanks for the comment. I found those clamps on www.historicships.com/Tools/Clamping & Holding. I was using that site for tools before I discovered Micro Mark. I don't know the brand name, but you can find them on that site. Cheers.
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After studying the plans and the guns that I have already constructed, I decided that the gun ports should be 3/8 square rather than 1/4 inch square. That requires that the height of the bulwarks must increase by 1/8 inch. This seems to be a common alteration (see Bob rafine’s log). Also, the plans have the two aft guns practically right up against the housing front. I can’t see how those guns could ever be fired without knocking down the ladder to the quarter deck or even the housing itself. Plus, the captain would have to climb over the guns to exit his cabin. So I moved the guns about 1/16 inch closer together and will move the housing front aft towards bulkhead #13. I expect this will provide about an inch between the aft guns and the housing front. In framing out the gun ports I also added several shims to assure that all measurements were in line and there were no gaps between planks. This makes for a patchwork look - especially since I used walnut wood for the shims. I didn’t create a solid bulwark wall as Bob (rafine) did and I hope I won’t regret it later. But all in all I am pleased with the result. I attach another photo showing the addition of the extra bulwark planks port and starboard. And yes, there is a boat under all those clamps.
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Good to see that your progress is going so well. Your hull looks really great. I'm in the process of framing my gunports, as well, and it is taking a while. Keep up the good work.
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Your model is coming along great. I really like your quoin. I'm going to have to rework mine. Great job.
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I am definitely going to cut the forward corners of the aft hatch. The holes are for the anchor cables. My kit came with small dye cast quoin handles. I am planning to use them. Also, I am using Bob Rafine's log as the guide for my build. He did an outstanding job!
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My FA build progresses. I like your deck. I don't think the 1/8 inch planks look bad at all. I notice that your grating is done with the 'crisscross' method. How come you didn't run out of wood grating pieces? I don't think I wasted any; but I didn't have enough to do both hatches that way. (see my build log.) I used the gun carriage parts from the kit and didn't worry about the fore cheeks being narrower that the aft cheeks. I am worried about the gun port placement. My gun carriages seem to be higher/larger than the plans. I guess everything will work itself out in time. Best of luck. Cheers.
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I made the hatch covers because I want to have them installed before I do the deck planking. The problem is that I thought that the grating was made by using the included grating pieces “crisscross”. But after doing the larger hatch (left in the photo), I didn’t have enough wood pieces for the smaller grating. Then I noticed that other modelers laid the pieces side-by-side. So now I have one hatch grating done one way and the other done another way. But I don’t, at this time, think that it looks so bad. I don't want to take the larger one apart; or try to get more grating pieces from Model Expo. I'm leaving the coaming in walnut. I like the look of walnut deck ‘furniture’. So I will probably stain the rest of the furniture wood walnut color. Also, I glued the waterway.
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Thanks Bob; I will keep a lookout for a source either deep in my cellar or the local hardware stores.
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Next question: Where did you get the "chain plates" from? I don't see anything like them in the kit. Sorry to keep bothering you. Cheers.
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Thank you all for your support. Ed: I used the gun carriages and barrels supplied with the kit. The bottom of the carriage, including the axles, were pre-cut and square (i.e. the cheeks are parallel). And, I also had problems extracting the laser carriage parts from the basswood board. Basswood splits too easily. My previous model had the carriage parts in a walnut board and I cut the axles from planks. In this case, I prefer the walnut. My solution was to simply glue the trucks right onto the cheeks when the axles split off. The carriage is small enough so that is hard to see. Alistair: I am glad that there are more rather than less bulkheads. I think smaller spans between bulkheads would make things easier.
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Structure creation is progressing. I attached the Stern, Keel and Stem to the Center Keel first and then fitted and glued the bulkheads. I added some scrap wood to strengthen the bulwarks during fairing. The fairing is complete; but I had to add shims to a few bulkheads – including the starboard side of bulkhead #1. I also added the filler blocks fore and aft. I added scrap wood around the hatch openings so I can install the combings before laying down the deck. Everything, so far, is pretty basic but enjoyable and relaxing.
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Thanks. I will do some research on this company's site.
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Since you have been great answering my questions, I have another one. (Punishment?) I know I am getting way ahead of myself, (I am still carving the bow and stern filler blocks), I was looking at your stern molding and the bow knees and rails. It looks like you are able to score the wood perfectly down the middle making it look like you glued two pieces together - similar to the way you glued together three pieces of wood to make the head rail. Is there a trick to the scoring, or your hand real steady with the x-acto blade, or did you glue two pieces together. (Also, any tips about the round "ball" on the upper cheek knee would be appreciated.) Thanks.
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Another question - On the plans and center keel, it looks like the foremast is perpendicular to the water line while the mainmast is angled aft. Your model looks like you changed that angle of the mainmast. Did you? And what are your thoughts? Thanks.
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The replacement center keel finally arrived yesterday. The new part matches the Fair American’s plans exactly. I attach photos of the old center keel sitting on top of the new replacement center keel. The two parts line up perfectly at the stern, but the difference in size is well over a ¼ inch at the stem. So now I am able to start removing the laser burn, redrawing and cutting the rabbet line, and gluing the stern/stem posts, the keel, as well as the 16 bulkheads to the new center keel. It is great to be back modeling again.
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I still am in awe of your model. I also notice now that you placed the housing wall almost at BHD 13 rather that on BHD12. Can you give me a more detailed explanation of your, "built-up fixed blocks using stripwood boxes with dowel slice sheaves"? Thanks.
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You model looks great! You hull planking is excellent. Are you planning on painting or going with the natural finish look? Cheers
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Ed: It took me quite awhile to figure out how to use the new MSW. Once I got started, it seems sort of logical. The place I started was in "The Captain's Lounge". There is a tutorial on how to start a log, add photos, etc. I would recommend starting there. Cheers.
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