Diver

Making some slow progress.  I will finish everything but the small boats.  More on that later

I just purchased the DSPIAE photo etch bending tool so the ladders and other parts could be shaped .  The tool is well made and worked very well.  Unfortunately the operator not so good.  After bending the ends of the ladder I twisted the steps in the wrong direction.  When trying to correct this the steps broke off.  The sides were drilled and some copper wire cut and soldered in.  It’s not perfect but with some paint it will be acceptable.  The towing deck of the tug is pretty much complete, now it’s onto the boat deck.

A bit more work on the aft deck

3 hours ago, Diver said:

I have started on some of the fun stuff.  The capstain and anchors are secure, the ventilators require a bit more work before they are glued in

Looking at these photos it appears the capstan shifted when I glued it down.  I used CA and Titebond so I don’t think it can be moved

I have started on some of the fun stuff.  The capstain and anchors are secure, the ventilators require a bit more work before they are glued in

Welcome  aboard.  I am a novice builder having completed the Medway Long boat by Syren and am in the process of doing the Sanson Tug by AL.  What I have found with the video instructions is that they leave out some important steps.  An experienced builder would think of these.  In my case it was bevelling the planks on the hull.  If I had not built the Longboat that came with very detailed instructions I would not have known to do this.  In hind sight I would have viewed the videos numerous times to to see if the steps were in a logical order, case and point, the gunwales and deck/pilot house would not have been installed til after the hull was planked.  Good luck with the build.

Two coats of blue on the uppers.  Had a bit of bleed through on the rub rail.  Should be an easy touch up with a small brush and more masking tape.  I am pleased with the Taniya tape for doing curves.  Starting to look like the photo on the box.

I am using the AL acrylic water based paints on my SansonTug.  The paint  is quite thick and does not seem to flow very well.  If you brush on paint in one direction and then come back with the brush it pulls the paint away.  The hull is well sanded with a primer sealer applied.  Is there away to thin the paint to slow drying time and help it flow better?   Thanks 

Two coats of Red Hull paint applied.  Levelled the hull in display cradle, fore and aft, and port to starboard and applied the water line marking with my cobbled up contraption.  It worked out well. Next I will mask of the water line and apply the blue hull paint

Put the Hull Red on this evening.  There are a few areas that will need some more attention.  I am pleased with the progression so far.

I have a question about painting.  I am using the AL paints and put the first coat of Hull Red on.  It seems to dry too quickly, when a second brush stroke is done over the area just covered it seems to pull the paint away. Is there a way to thin these paints to extend the drying time?  The AL paints are water based acrylics.  

I have done another coat of filler and primer and another sanding session.  There are still a couple of areas that need attention but I have to remind myself that this is a Tug , not a racing yacht.  Still not an excuse to make it as good as possible.  Next step will be adding colour coats.

I have done another coat of filler and while it drys I started on one of the small boats that come with this kit.  The instructions show this as a Clinker build, but starting at the gunwales and going to the keel would have the overlap in the wrong direction.  I have decided to build it as a Carvel.  Hope this is the right term.  A couple of pics to show my clamping solution for this small build.  The instructions show the small boats covered and lashed to the deck.  I might try and leave the covers off and have them swung out on the Davits ready to be lowered.  Any thoughts on this appreciated 

2 minutes ago, Kenchington said:

The pin vise that came with my Model Shipways combo was almost useless but I baulked at the price of the Starrett. I picked up a much cheaper one at my local hobby store and it has not let me down yet. I'm not certain but I think it is the Excel one -- $20 Canadian here and probably available for much less where you are.

 

I can't offer any advice on drill bits, though I see that Otto Frei sell them in packs of six of the same size. They must expect their customers to break bits frequently!

 

Trevor

I purchased my pin vise from Lee Valley tools along with a set of micro drill bits.  They have worked well for me so far.  The Pin Vise also has a tube of drill bits stored in the Main body.  I think I paid around $50.00 Canadian for both.

So the ugly duckling got a coat of wood filler and then was sanded with 220 and 400 grit.  One coat of primer/sealer has been brushed on.  There are some areas that need attention, more filler, more sanding and more primer.  The hull has turned out better than expected

I have done the first heavy sanding with 120 grit, 180 grit and a final with 220 grit.  There are some areas that will need filler and more sanding.  I did manage to snap off a piece of the keel where the rudder post will mount.  Used a piece of scrap from the kit and made a new one.  I have said before and will say again, this kit should have an instruction book and the build sequence should be modified.  I have still not heard back from AL with my concerns about this model

And then there was one.  Tonight I finished the planking on this project.  It came with a lot of frustration and cuss words.  The sanding and filling and more sanding will begin tomorrow .  It looks rough but the ugly duckling may turn out to be a swan.

On 10/26/2024 at 10:26 AM, Ronald-V said:

Update: 

 

Installing the stern gallery...this part went pretty smoothly! I think the pre-fitting when I was attaching the lower stern counter (post #92) definitely helped everything fit nicely...below is a photo report of how I glued the parts.

 

 

First pre-fitting the (inner) stern fascia. This is the base that has to look good. Everything measured and worked from there.

 

 

It turned out that the (inner) upper counter fit perfectly in between, which was a relief and confirmation that everything was exactly where it should be. Already tried the nails so that I can later push it into place with gluing.

 

 

 

Gluing was easy and clamping was not difficult.

 

 

 

Then it was just a matter of gluing the Stern fascia in place (it could rest nicely on top of the upper counter)

 

And the result looks nice and straight and good (I think so ) 

 

 

 

Now comes the trickier part...the side galleries that probably need some modification since I have open doors. Let's take a step by step look at how I'm going to tackle it.

 

Interesting clamps.  Are they still available, I could not find them on the Wolfcraft web site.

Thanks all for the suggestions and comments.  In the end I put a piece of backing behind the mis aligned planks and added a filler made from a wider plank, (popsicles stick).  Some sanding was done to get them fare and once filler and final sanding are complete I think it will be OK.  Paint should cover any small imperfections.

9 hours ago, Dziadeczek said:

I meant to say, you did not do the spiling process properly - your planks look rectangular all the way (the same width along their entire lengths), so sooner or later you run out of space for them on the hull and ended up with those triangular empty spaces...

Also, in order for your planks to fit at the bow and the stern, you have to either pre-shape them off the model (using for instance cardboard templates, or edge-bend them to follow the curve in those spaces.

Like this modeler did here (post # 26 in this link - check his video).

 

I did not spile any of the planks on this hull.  I followed the AL instructions which in hind sight was a mistake.  They do not even mention to put a bevel on one side of the planks, which I did.  I would not have installed the deckhouse and gunwales and would have only temporary installed the deck.  Planking this hull has been a test of patience.

6 hours ago, Chuck Seiler said:

Is this going to be double planked ( second layer of thin planking over the first), a single planked painted or single planked stained?

This kit is single planked.  I strongly believe that it should have been double planked.

48 minutes ago, Dziadeczek said:

chuck passaro planking - YouTube

Thanks for that.  I have used Chucks planking fan and tick marks on the Syren Medway.  In hind sight, I would not have followed the AL instructions, I would have done it Chucks way.  I do not want to totally strip this planking, thinking of adding a filler and try to blend it all together.

I have run into a problem with the planking on my AL Sanson tug.  The video instructions on this kit have you planking from the deck down, and the from the keel up.  As can be seen from the photos there is a problem where they meet.  All planks are flat on the frames and I thought my faring was good.  If I were to sand where these planks meet there will be no plank left.  Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

I have been doing some spot sanding on the hull from Hades and got to aggressive around the stem.  The bad area was carved out and a patch made and installed.  When the planking is finished there will be a lot of sanding and filler and more sanding to get the hull ready for paint. I will say again, this kit should be double planked.  I sent a message to AL with my concerns but heard nothing back.

On 10/23/2023 at 11:24 AM, Diver said:

I am working on chapter 3.  The videos have you shape, paint and install the main bulwarks.  When that is done you sand the transom to the correct angle so the last piece can be installed.  I chose to make a card template so that I could sand and test fit.  This is a crucial part as the hull planking must come up flush with this piece. Once I have a good fit here, the main bulwarks will be glued in place.  They are plywood and somewhat fragile, no need to damage them when moving things about while sanding.  I am almost there, just a little bit to go.

A note to any one thinking of doing this build. " I would not install the Bulwarks " until after the hull is planked.