scratch

Thank you Mark, Michael and Kevin .
 
Bowsprit
 
The Bowsprit is tapered like the lower masts, that is it narrows inboard from the Knightheads. It has a tapered tenon which fits into the step in the support in the forecastle :
 

 
The forward end has two flat sections for the Bees. These sections are offset from each other :
 

 
Some views showing the bowsprit fitted into the step :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Hello and many thanks for warm words! Now it's time for litte update. Firs the last hanging knees in the cabin, I have decided to make them a little compass:
 

 

 

 

 
Then completted fore bulkhead of captains cabin, I leave the doors half open as in the rear bulkhead:
 

 

 

 

 

 
I hope I will have more time for modeling now...
 
Alex
 

Hi folks, I am about to head off on some holidays so I thought I had better post an update of my latest additions to my Endeavour.  the rigging is proving to be a challenge in determining what goes where as this is my first rigged model.
cheers
 
Pat
 
 
 

Some photo: judges estimate Montanes.

During September 26-28, 2014 in Kiev the All-Ukrainian competitions "Cup of Kiev — 2014" in bench models of a class C were held (on classification of Naviga). Except the classes C1 - C7 (on the classification of Naviga existing now) held the second year competitions in the class C8 "Models from kits ". The class C8 consists of three subclasses:
C-8-1 – sailing vessels and similar to them, without the main mechanical engine;
C-8-2 – vessels with the mechanical engine;
C-8-3 – models of ship installations or parts of the ship, stages of construction of models.
The Montanes model participated in these competitions and received the first place in the class C8-3, a silver medal (gold in this class nobody was awarded) and the Cup of Kiev.

Thanks AP, Rusty, Nils and for all the likes.
 
Rusty - it's good to see you back around.
 
So the rough fairing has been completed and frame pair K which is the first frame bend has now been installed with its spacers. I am making and installing the floor spacers from 4" Swiss pear as the square frames go in, and the frame bend spacers are 4" boxwood that I hope will give a little bit of contrast.
 
As of today, frame 14fore and frame pair J have been cut out and need assembly, hopefully over next few days.
 
Ben

Thank you mhegazi, and a warm welcome to MSW to you Mark .
 
Forecastle Railings
 
I'm nearly at the stage of "Stepping" the Foremast, but I realised that it would be nearly impossible to fit the Forecastle Railings if the Shrouds were already fitted, so this was my next step.

The Stanchions have a wide flair at the bottom, so to simulate that I silver soldered some 1.6mm tubing (ID of 0.85mm) to the bottom of some 0.8mm brass wire. I calculated the length of each stanchion first - none are the same length.

Then I soldered a piece of 0.6mm ID tubing to the top of each stanchion for the Eye through which the rope will pass :
 

 
I made the eyes a little on the large size to make soldering easier, then filed them down to the correct size :
 

 
The top rope has an eye seized into one end, and a lashing at the fore end secures it :
 

 

 
The aft end terminates with a seizing on an eyebolt :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks very much Vivian, John and Pat - no Blacksmiths in my family as far as I know .
 
Mast Heads
 
Back to the Masts, I'd made the Crosstrees earlier. They are notched halfway through to match the notches in the Trestle Trees :
 

 

 
Before fitting them I fitted the Bands around the heads. I made these from thin card which I'd stained black - the finish has a slight metallic "sheen" at this stage, probably caused by diffraction of light, which may disappear when I apply Minwax - I hope not, as they really look like iron at the moment :
 

 

 
I also cut and fitted the Battens - they are 1.2mm wide by 0.6mm thick. These run 3/5 of the way up the mast head, and needed to be notched to fit over the bands :
 

 

 

 
Next I fitted the Crosstrees - a rather straightforward operation :
 

 

 

 
Finally, I made the Caps. These took a bit of careful marking out and cutting. Their eyebolts have also been fitted :
 

 

 
  Danny

Hey Cap'n!  Firstly - Thank you!  It is a fair amount of work and I don't get to it as much or as fast as I like due to several projects and commitments going on,  but it is coming along!  So appreciate the good word.
 
Secondly - Not in any way that I know of.  The project is being done somewhat independent of MSW yet intended solely for FOR MSW as a way to participate and give something to the efforts of such a wonderful modeling resource - being new to the hobby I am low on information to bring so I bring other skills and talents

Bibs
 
The Bibs were made next and fitted. As with everything else on the masts the sizes are all proportional to the mainmast :
 

 
The Mizzen Mast has a very abbreviated pair of Cheeks :
 

 
Trestle Trees
 
The Trestle Trees took quite a bit of working out to get them spaced correctly. Unlike the earlier volumes of TFFM there are almost no detailed scale drawings of the various parts needed for the masts, and everything has to be calculated :
 

 
  Danny

Thanks once again for the kind comments Tony, Nils, Spyglass, Hjalmar, Mark, David, Christian, Remco and Steve, and all the "Likes". Always appreciated.
 
Mast Cheeks
 
The Foremast and Mainmast both have Cheeks fitted to each side of the mast. These extend from the top of the Hounds to about 3/4 of the way to the deck. The Hounds are incorporated in them at their top - something I'd always puzzled about in previous builds, but now have become clear .
 
First the mast had to be narrowed to accommodate them, all the way to the top :
 

 

 
Next I tapered the cheeks to the same width as the flats on the mast, half-rounded them to the bottom of the hounds, and cut in the scarf joints for the Bibs. As the bibs are thinner than the hounds the scarf joints were cut in to their thickness :
 

 
The bottom of the cheeks were shaped into a "duckbill", with the inner face scalloped out for the last couple of millimetres :
 

 

 
Filler pieces were then glued to the masthead and tapered :
 

 
A tenon for the Cap was cut into the top of masthead at an angle. In real practice this was done to prevent the very heavy cap from tilting down at the fore end :
 

 

 
The lower Woolding Bands were made from thin card. They measure 0.8mm wide by 0.3mm thick. The wooldings will be added when my next stock of rigging thread arrives, and an upper band will finish them off :
 

 
  Danny

Lovely work indeed Danny . Your ship modeling skills and knowledge of the workings of each part of the ship are inspiring .  

Thanks again John, Vivian, Michael, John and Greg - your comments are always appreciated.
 
Bridle Port
 
Looking through the above pics I realized I'd forgotten to mention the Bridle Port. This port is the foremost one, and is quite a bit different to the gunports. It's main function was to assist in attaching the tackle to the anchor when it broke the water so it could be stowed. An ancillary function was to provide ventilation below the foredeck which houses the galley, the manger and in some ships was used as a recovery area for sick or injured crew.
 
Unlike the gunports the bridle port is hinged horizontally. It's construction was otherwise similar to the gunport :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks all for the kind comments.
 
Alan,I use a pin vise to drill the holes, my dremel is much to aggressive for this type of drilling and the smaller drills do not fit in my other micro motor. Next to that I feel much more comfortable to do this precise work by hand, a powertool will not give the feedback a pin vice does.
 
Ed, Mark, I draw the castello up to the .018 hole, getting at the smaller sizes you really need to be careful not to break the wood. I use 24" strips to get a better yield from the work involved drawing one strip.
 
I also made a minor improvement to my Ed's style clamps as the treaded holes started to wear out pretty quickly in my case. I added square holes and inserted little nuts for strength.
 

 
Remco

So after lots of holes and filling them up again .....
 
The hull ready to be sanded
 

 
Close up of the end result 
 

 
 
Remco

..... continued.
 
Thanks Michael. I use a mini gas torch for all my soldering, and silver solder paste. It flows beautifully, but the joins MUST be a zero fit as it won't fill any gaps.
 
The Middle Links and Lower Links were both made by first cutting all the pieces to length - oddly enough ALL the links finished up the same length of 28mm, even the upper links. According to TFFM the middle lengths should have been of varying lengths to allow for the change of angle, but as they also sweep up slightly as the go aft the difference was so minimal (0.2mm) that it didn't warrant a whole lot of extra work .
 
To bend the pieces I used a simple two-nail jig. The lower links were then silver soldered and shaped around a 1mm drill bit at their lower ends. The upper ends were finessed with pliers around a wedge shaped piece of brass held in the vice similar to the one shown here :
 

 

 
The three links ready for final fitting :
 

 
Once the lower links were soldered and shaped the middle links were fitted between them and the upper links and soldered together. The middle link was then tightened down using the jig shown above :
 

 

 
I use a piece of pumice stone ($4.00 from a supermarket) to hold the pieces for soldering.
 
  Danny

Thank you Brian and John.
 
 
Which means I can fit 7 of the 5" deadeyes across one and still have room to spare :
 

 
Chains
 
Construction of the Chains - the "support braces" for the lower deadeyes - begins with the Upper Link or Deadeye Binding. As it's name suggests this is a forged steel binding which wraps around the deadeye. It passes through the channel and has a loop in it's lower end which attaches to the Middle Link.
 
To make these, which are all the same for this size of deadeye, I used a jig. The 0.7mm brass wire was first bent into a rough oval and the join silver soldered. Then it was tightened around the wooden pin and nail with needle-nose pliers to form it's shape :
 

 

 

 
The wooden peg in the jig was turned down to give a push-on fit over the outer diameter of the deadeye. Final fitting was accomplished with needle nose pliers. I needed to make one up to measure the following links - this one was later opened up and the deadeye removed prior to blackening of the wire :
 

 

 
Continued next post......

My sincere apologies for not posting sooner - my computer was either very sick or dead these past few weeks - all fixed now .
 
Thank you for your replies Allan, Druxey, David, Mark, Doris, David, Crackers and Johann, much appreciated.
 
 
Of course it would have Allan (and David , but you must have missed my comment regarding that bit - I didn't have any tubing of the right size, and to get some would have meant a 1 hour round trip with no certainty of success in getting any from the "local" hobby shop . I figured correctly that I could file the hinge straps in about the same time .
 
Deadeyes
 
Although my computer has been down I haven't been idle. I've turned ALL the Deadeyes and drilled them as well - all 142 of them, in four sizes - 64 off 10" (real size) or 5.3mm, 20 off 8" (4.25mm), 42 off 7" (3.7mm) and 16 off 5" - a tiny 2.65mm, the holes were a lot of fun to get right in these ones .
 
First, an explanation of why I made my own when there are very good quality ones available from companies like Syren Ship Models and some of the Russian sites. While these are of very nice quality, none of them had them in the sizes I needed. For example Chuck supplies all of his in even millimetre sizes (with good reason) and I thought the differences in some of the sizes I needed would have been too great and noticeable. For the 8" and 7" deadeyes I would have had to go with a 4mm deadeye for both, as you can see from the previous paragraph. The 5" deadeyes would have been either too large or too small.
 
Besides - I like a challenge .
 
After turning the diameter of the "huge" 5.3mm deadeyes I used a 1mm Parting Tool to cut the groove and also part it from the stock - the Digital Readout came in very handy to keep them all to exactly the same dimensions. For the 7" and 5" ones I ground an old parting tool down to 0.7mm. I rounded the edges with a needle file :
 

 

 
To drill the three 0.6mm holes for the 10" and 8" ones I used my new Rotary Table in the Mill. The holes are 1/4 of the way in from the outer edge and are spaced evenly at angles of 120 degrees apart. The 7" and 5" deadeyes have 0.45mm holes :
 

 

 
All the deadeyes separated into sizes :
 

 
An idea of the small sizes of them. Some 10" and 5" deadeyes on top of a 5 cent piece :
 

 
  Danny

Fore Cants up to #10 have been installed, now to make #11 with the 2" cast top timber for the forward gunport.

Ben

The planks of the main wale have been drilled for the bolts at the butts and the treenails have been installed.  The bolts are 0.75" in diameter and the treenails are 1.25" in diameter.  Although not quite to scale, I used a 77 bit for the bolts and a 75 for the treenails.  I usually dry-fit the treenails, relying on the finish to hold them in place.  However, I wanted some structural strength with these treenails so I drilled them deeper into the frames and dipped them in dilute glue to secure them.  I realize no one will see them, but it only took a few hours and the added security is worth it.  I wet the wale in the second photo to make the treenails stand out.  
 

 

 
Next came applying a black finish to the wale.  I tried several approaches before making my final decision. I found an unopened bottle of Floquil hull black.  This looked good but when I applied the Watco's finish it rubbed right off.  Next I tried archival marker.  Looked good but the length of time it took to apply tried my patience.  Feiberg's leather dye also looked good and allowed the joint lines to be slightly more apparent but it bleeds into the wood and I was afraid of getting it onto the stem (even with masking).  My winning choice was artist acrylic paint.  This comes in a tube and can be diluted to the desired consistency.  It applies nicely and there was no concern about ruining the stem.  I was a little sloppy in getting paint on the frames when painting the edges of the wale but this will be covered with planking and so will not show.  The photos show the first coat applied.   I am up to 3 coats and will probably go with 3 more.  In between coats I am sanding with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper (used dry).  Each subsequent coat is more dilute than the initial one.  I have left the aft edge a little long for final shaping later.  The bolts will be installed after the painting is completed.
 

 

Bowsprit Chock made and installed, what a tricky little piece!!
 
Ben

Cants 3 thru 5 have been fitted permently and now the bridle port sills/lintels are being fitted.
 
Ben

Thanks for the comments and likes.
 
Managed to temporarily fix in place cants 3 thru 5 on both sides and mark up for the narrow bridle port, came out at the correct dimension of 1'9" wide which gives me a good feeling on the cant frame positions. The frames will now be pulled back out and the scores for the sills/lintels will be cut in.
Also I marked and drilled #65 pilot holes for the Hawse holes.
 
Ben

The three runs of planking that make up the main wale have been installed.  As you can see, most of the joinery disappears after sanding.  In the first picture I wet the wood to make the plank edges stand out.  The next step will be to mark out and install the treenails.  The slight rise at the fore end of the wale when looking head-on is not apparent when looking at the ship, so I am going to leave this be.  I would cause far more damage if I tried to remove the wale in order to drop it 0.5 mm.
 

 

 

 

 

Enough fun , back to the more mundane hull work. Starboard side almost done. Not completely pleased with the run of the planks but I'm unsure if I can improve this.
 

 

 

 
Up next, tree nailing I really like doing that
 
Remco