drtrap

A couple of shots of my (late) progress...

Left couple 24's carronades, right couple, 32's...

I think definitely the 32's are the best option.

A final touch up procedure is needed, but in the end with the other 14-16 ....

...trying hardly to find the stool bed of 0,5x3 and the carriage coin of 3x3 mm....

I think the above parts are totally missed!

Jason, any help (your the 1st you've purchased those items)? 

Thanks

Thanks for the kind words gents, means a lot coming from you.

 

 

Stergios - I blackened the hooks first, and then painted before bending.  However, what I've found works better is to just blacken the hooks and paint afterwards.  Otherwise the paint comes off very easily and needs another coat.

Yoy're right! I spent so many hours trying to apply primer and painting afterwards on minor/tiny structures with disappointing reslults.

CaptCraig, Ferit, Mort, Sjors and BE - thanks gents for the continuing support.

 

Some slow but steady progress, finally getting a chance to try the various different things that I've thinking about for the last month or more:

 

Have one carronade attached with breech rope.  Unfortunately my seized knot ended up looking more like a baguette than a knot after all the manhandling, hopefully this will get a little easier with practice.  I'll probably play with this some more to get final placement so it looks natural.

 

Made up a couple of hooks and attached to a double and single 3mm block to see how this would look.  Hooks are made from the small 0.3mm brass etch eyebolts bent to shape.  Once rigged, managed to get one of the crew to test things out - thumbs up.  Pretty happy with the way my first carronade is shaping up.

 

I'm probably going to frap the tackle falls around the blocks as per current practice on HMS Victory rather than cheese them on the deck - no Admirals inspection for me...

 

As always, suggestions welcome.

 

breech rope.JPGstrops and hooks.JPGtraining tackle.JPGheave.JPG

Hi Jason, those hooks are painted or blackened?

Thanks.

I think that a point of later concern is whether the (aftermarket carronades kits) deck blocks should be drilled or (better) glued on the deck...

Pete, Jim - just muddling through trying to find things that work for me...

 

Stergios - take a look here http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/509-hms-snake-by-beef-wellington-caldercraft-scale-1-64-first-wooden-ship-build/?p=76645.  Once rigged, carriages will be glued to the sliding bed so its secure on model.  These are unglued while being rigged and the pin seems to hold them in position as needed together with the small piece of wood holding it in correct place.

Thank you for replying (as usually) so promptly!!

Spending my time with the aftermarket carronades assembly...

Two questions for you Jason, in brief:

1] how have you created the rope-hole on the barrel (in front of the elevation screw)? I cant'r find your tip even I have read it somewhere!

2] did you glue the carriage on the sliding bed or simply you left it unglued sliding on it via its 1,5 mm rod wire?

Thanks again

Stergios

Fantastic work, Jason!

What;s the need of the sliding bed posterior eyelets you have fixed?

Thanks

All sills glued in place.

It;s my choise to not drill the sills, independently of the possible use of the after market guns and fittings...

Thank you mates.

For the moment I try to find out which type of gun is my prefered one...

These days i'll try to assemble each kit independently just to be sure.

In the mean time I want to ask you:

1] do you like to have painted or blackened small parts like trunnions, eyelets etc

2] what kind of tool do you use to trim or precise cut metal rods of 1mm to 1,5 mm?

Thanks a lot!

Hi mates 

I'm so many steps behind you but I try to find my rythm again.

Cheers

I always use a metal primer on all brass and copper parts that need painting, try that if you want to paint parts before fitting them. I then don't have any problems with paint rubbing off...

To restore/touch up the appearance especially to small black parts it is advisable to use a waterproof black permanent marker.

...I think it's better to have blackned or painted the pins in advance before the rigging etc... 

Hi Jim!

We thank u so much for the help and the many photos, in so detail!

.......

The mounting pins will need to be fixed properly to the sills and painted. ...................

After time I took the decision to only fix the sills to the lower gunport's quadrant without any drill or pin....

Just a personal option 

I've instantly found the time to see your recent posts spending my summer holidays.

Greek island were so close to me... 

Welcome back Jim!

Waiting to see the whole rigging process of the carronades.

Nice, have you decided on the carronades yet...?

Hi Pete

I'm still waiting for the 32's kits.

Cornwall model boats sent to me only the barrels, ten days ago... 

Modification of the inner bulwarks...

New after market fittings just arrived...

The standard kits barrels compared to those of 24lbs and 32 lbs respectively.

When placed the order I considered the aftermarket 24lbs as the most appropriate in seize but today I dont know what to choose for the weaponry...

I strongly need your estimation on this 'debate" matter.

Thank you in advance.

Stergios

Thank you 

The only Cruizer-class brig to be armed with 9 pounder long guns was Cruizer itself and those were changed out to 16 x 32 pounder carronades + 2 x 6 pound guns before any of her 105+/- sister ships were built. At least two Cruizers had 24 pounder carronades substituted for the 32s, in one documented case after the captain threw most of his battery overboard to survive a storm. So far my research into the Cruizers (which is by no means comprehensive) suggests that the fore and aft platforms were common, if not universal, on the sisters to Cruizer. Many Cruizers, when refitted for the American theater at the outbreak of the War of 1812, were also armed with a 12 pounder "boat gun" - a 12 pounder carronade with trunnions mounted on a standard gun carriage. In some cases captains added to this armament with a second boat gun or another 6 pounder or two. For example, the Cruizer Frolic when it met USS Wasp had two additional brass 6 pounders at the transom ports (how those were worked is beyond my comprehension given the space limitations under the aft platform) the 12 pound boat gun set up on the forward platform and a very recently acquired 12 pound boat gun barrel lashed down on deck which the captain planned to re-mount and set up on the aft platform. Commander William Layman took command of Raven when it came off the ways in 1804 and removed the 2 x 6 pounders, re-planked over the forward gun ports (not the bridle ports) and the transom ports and then mounted a 68 pounder carronade   on a transverse (rotating) carriage on each of the modified fore and aft platforms.

 

The Snake and Victor ship-rigged sloops were armed as Caldercraft supplies the kit as listed above. By the way the masts on Victor were located a little differently than on Snake (NMM Greenwich has copies of the original plans available if someone wanted to build Victor instead of Snake).

 

Based on my monitoring of all the Snake builds (in preparation for bashing Cruizer slightly to build one of her sisters) it appears that the aftermarket 32s sit a bit tall for the gun ports without reworking them. Substituting aftermarket 24s or even 18s might remedy this and would be indistinguishable from the 32s except to someone who can spot the difference by eye alone.

 

Swivel guns were considered small arms, like muskets and pistols, and I have not seen any mention of them in my research into the Cruizers. I have seen them mentioned on privateers but their crews had a profit motive and would be reluctant to damage a potential prize making swivel guns an alternative. I did find reference to 4 pound guns in the tops of USS Hornet in 1813.

 

And thanks for the plug, Jason, you're very kind! 

 

I envy the very nice work all you guys are doing on what is turning into a very interesting group build of Snake. You are all going to be tough acts to follow.

DFellingham,

we thank you so much for your comprehensive reference!

I have placed my order and wait for the aftermarketing 32lbs and 24 lbs just to chequ in practise the relative dimensions.

Hi again.

I'm having a look at the aftermarket carronades.

It seems to me that the more comparable (with the kit standards, in length) are the 18lbs (2,1 cm).

What do you think?

Hi Jason and thnaks fot the feed-back!

I'm thinking to use cannon 9lbs kits instead of carronade kits (standard or aftermarket).

Is there anyone who believes that this option will affect seriously the whole "matching"?

Thanks

Well jason

I thought that the below mentioned kit was your choise of the weaponry.

I was wrong?

C85090AK Cannon Kit 9lb 1:64 c1790 39.5mm 

Cheers