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drtrap

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Posts posted by drtrap

  1. I spent a lot of time dry fitting the various components and had completed the aft ladders to determine where the various rudder steering lines need to go so they don't interfere (the plans are horrible in this respect).  This took a bit of playing, but once done, I knew I could position the blocks, wheel and tiller arm with confidence - I think its the only way to do it to prevent an issue because once the aft platform is fixed it would be difficult to fix.  The rigging of the aft carronades also need to be factored in as well as it gets pretty cramped back there.  I ended up having to make my own tiller arm as I had an accident with the kit piece.

    Thank you again for replying so promptly !

  2. The carronades do sit up rather high, higher than cannons, and on this ship the 32lb'ers are pretty big for the ship.  Its the same with the aftermarket ones as well.  A lot of this gets driven right back when the gun port patterns were installed and the relative height to the deck, seems even a 1mm difference can make a huge difference with the room for the carronades.

    What do you think Jason for the 24lbers ??

  3. I found the barrels sat high for two reasons - 1st the pivot brackets protrude too far from the carriage, push them down further and put a small flat on the bottom of the white metal barrel mount helps, 2nd the lengths of the elevating screw can vary by a few mm thus increasing the problem, I built them up with a piece of brass rod - hidden as it was inserted into the carriage.

     

     

    Norman

    I plan to shape the swivel brackets in a "rectangular Z" fashion (profile view) to decrease the distance of the carriage to the deck and accomodate better its fixing to the sill with the pin....In my work we call this a "Z plasty". 

    In the other hand i'm thinking seriously to buy the aftermarket carronades that Jason ordered, or alternatively the cannon 9lb kits which I prefer better.

    I don't know what's the reason of the "huge" (per pair) cost difference (15,29 Vs 6,71 pounds)....

  4. I have tried temporarily to place a couple of carronades on the deck.

    It's clearly obvious that the 1st gun completed on the carriage is too high (and without placing the relative sills into position (!!!) ). 

    In my opinion besides that the 2nd carriage without the swivel bracket and back wheel assembly is more suitable acoording to the gunport....

    Any thought or suggestion?

    Possibly another indication and option to call for aftermarket guns and carriages ?? 

    post-944-0-71459400-1370285726_thumb.jpg

    post-944-0-00654500-1370285751_thumb.jpg

    post-944-0-38181900-1370285845_thumb.jpg

    post-944-0-13440600-1370285865_thumb.jpg

  5. I was trying all the day to deal with the 1st carronade's assembly just to familiarize myshelf, but it's impossible. 

    So I should be grateful if you would kindly help me about the consecutive steps of this procedure.

    I've glued firstly the swivel bracket and the back-wheels easily but when I tried to fix and glue the trunnion brackets, the carronade and the 1,5 mm brass rod (en block) that was a nightmare....

    Thank you in advance.

     

    Stergios

     

    PS: 1] Did you use carpenter or CA glue for all the above?

    2] I'm very dissapointed with those cheap materials of the standard Caldercraft's kit. I would prefer to pay more just to have the opportunity to deal with precise and of upper quality basic units of the box...... 

  6. I've had no issues paint the white metal fittings using a Revel Tar Black Acyrlic paint and even the Admiraty Enamal paints now discontinued sadly. I have found the paint covers well. The parts you have shown look like the trucks for the carronades and yard fittings for the stuntbooms.

     

     

    Norman

    Yes, those parts are the fittings for the carronades. I painted them yesterday using admiralty's matt black and I'm satisfied with the result. I plan to "seal" that black using vallejo's matt varnish....

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