KevinR

Patrick,
Thank you for stopping by and for your kind works. This being my first scratch build I am happy with how the planking has turned out. But the pictures do not show everything, there are gaps at the edges and some of the planks did not lay as flat as they should. The plank thicknesses are not uniform, so I have had to soften the edges of some with a chisel blade or else they would be trip hazard.
 
I am also working at 1:24 scale, not the small scale you work at. Patrick, your planking on that scale is amazing. 1:24 scale has some advantages. I believe the gaps are not as obvious as they are in smaller scales. The drawback I am finding, is that a lot of the detail that can be omitted at the smaller scale, would be noticed if missing at 1:24 scale. When I started I figured I could get this done in about a year. I have been working on this for 7 months (I did take 2 months off over the summer, so say 5 months actual working). I think I will be doing good to have started the deck planking when 1 year rolls around.
 
I am trying to plan out long term, so I will not have to rush to get supplies when I need them. There are several items that will need to scratch built.
Windlass Stove Coffee Pot ( You can't go to sea without Coffee) Winder (Dredging Winch) Dredge Rollers Oyster Dredge Dredge A-Frame Steering Mechanism 2 Lanterns Running Lights I have been on the look out for Items that would be useful in building those parts. I believe my best find was some decorative gears at the local Michaels Craft Store. I have picked up 2 sizes of wooden barrels, fish hooks with straight shanks and some assorted brass.

Hopefully I can use some of the gears in the winder and the windlass.

Hi all,
 
Nearly a year gone (bar 3 days) since I started, unfortunately things have really slowed up recently on the build, as I've come off the employment scrap heap. Great being back at work, but it really gets in the way of my hobby.
 
Anyway this is the state of play now on the upper deck.

Going steady away at the moment. Adding the funnels has made it seem like a leap forward in progress. Hardest part was finding what I considered to be the right colour. In the end Vauxhall mustard yellow did it for me. 

Hi everyone, I just finished building the Greyhound by Corel at 1:100 scale. I have placed a few pics of it in the Gallery. I just started my new build of the Charles Morgan and will post pics as I go!
 
I purchased the kit from Model Expo and have been a long time customer of theirs. After inventory of everything in the box I was short 30 pieces of 1/16 X 3/32 X 24" and short 2 pieces of 1/16 X 1/4 X 24". I contacted Frank at Model Expo and these were sent out ASAP no problems! They do indeed stand behind their product. This is one reason I like getting things from them if they have what I'm looking for. 
 
The Keel, stem and stern post went together well and were all very straight. I tried something different this time and won't know how well it will work or how clean it will look until I start planking the hull. I took the center keel before gluing on the false keel, stem and stern pieces and after marking the bearding line used my Dremel tool sander instead of chisel. Then I glued the remaining flat surface to the full-size stem, false keel and stern pieces. I'd appreciate any input if others have done this and if it worked well for you.
 
I then pre-shaped and dry fitted the bulkheads. Once square they were glued in place and I then did some additional bevel cutting and sanding. I suspect there will be some tweaking along the way. 
 
I then cut and installed the stern stems. Make sure you align the posts and watch the height making sure not to cut them too short. I then installed the Planksheer and even though I was careful I managed to break (several times) the part going around the bow. I then installed the stanchions and it's very important to make sure they are aligned and most important that when you install the mainrail (again I managed to break this very thin piece several times) they leave enough overhang so that it will accommodate the batten planks. 
 
I looked at a few other build logs at this point and of interest, after the hull was planked it was eventually sanded smooth. However, one would then have to add a fashion piece that is usually painted white along the outside of the plank sheer and I suppose main rail. This was troubling for me and I had to cut off all stanchions and realign to accommodate the stepped look. I really don't know if that was the correct thing to do or take the easy way out, sand the whole thing smooth and add the extra piece later???
 
Now, currently I'm struggling with the stanchions on the bow that go from the main rail down to the filler block. And, at the same time keep the exterior "future" planking aligned with the balance of other stepped planking. The problem is that the interior bow has this ceiling and waterway planks that are supposed to be sweeping up and smooth (just at the bow).  I've taken this apart a few times and naturally busted up the plank sheer and main rail several times. I look at the blueprint sheets everything lines up but I just don't have the sweeping angle it needs. 
 
I'll keep messing with this until I get it! Meantime any advice is always welcome. Also, I'm thinking of getting a ropewalk jig. Is Model Expos as cheap as it looks? I'm also thinking of ordering a few different chemicals from Jax to oxidize the copper plates before I install them. I was then thinking of putting a sealer on them before handling and installing? I really like the way the Model Shipways picture on their kit looks. Frank said the guy that built it actually used paper! you could use a thick paper and still roll over it with the ponce wheel to get the rivet effect. But, I'll use the copper and will sample a bunch of different shades and methods. Do I want more realistic or what appeals to "me"!!!
 
 

One down, fifteen to go!  
 

 
Cheers,
Tim

My next task was to place the front and rear saddle on a flat surface, set the tube into them, align each saddle with the center of it's reinforcement plate, then glue them to the tube.  This step was quite easy!  
 
The next step requires a more steady hand and a set of magnifying visors, (at this point I wish I had bought the type with LED lights).  Then I snip two front and two rear gussets from the photo-etched sheet and glue them in place on top of the reinforcement plates.
(See photos below).  There will be four for each tube for a total of sixteen gussets to mount.
 

 

 

 

 
Cheers,
Tim

Greetings, a snowy morning in Virginia Beach makes for a good day at the building bench!  I managed to get the Breech Covers, Impulse Chambers, and all the Access Covers on the  torpedo tubes and some work on the Day Cabin.
 

 

 

 
 

 

 
Cheers,
Tim
 

Patrick, I sometimes wish that I could show of the internal framing. I too like the way it looks. I like the way you do the cut-away on your models.
 
I left off a "8 hinges" from the list of items I need to make.
 
A last update before the end of the weekend. I made the deck beams that will support the forward cabin. It went pretty quick, I only had to remake a couple of the parts.

Patrick,
Thank you for stopping by and for your kind works. This being my first scratch build I am happy with how the planking has turned out. But the pictures do not show everything, there are gaps at the edges and some of the planks did not lay as flat as they should. The plank thicknesses are not uniform, so I have had to soften the edges of some with a chisel blade or else they would be trip hazard.
 
I am also working at 1:24 scale, not the small scale you work at. Patrick, your planking on that scale is amazing. 1:24 scale has some advantages. I believe the gaps are not as obvious as they are in smaller scales. The drawback I am finding, is that a lot of the detail that can be omitted at the smaller scale, would be noticed if missing at 1:24 scale. When I started I figured I could get this done in about a year. I have been working on this for 7 months (I did take 2 months off over the summer, so say 5 months actual working). I think I will be doing good to have started the deck planking when 1 year rolls around.
 
I am trying to plan out long term, so I will not have to rush to get supplies when I need them. There are several items that will need to scratch built.
Windlass Stove Coffee Pot ( You can't go to sea without Coffee) Winder (Dredging Winch) Dredge Rollers Oyster Dredge Dredge A-Frame Steering Mechanism 2 Lanterns Running Lights I have been on the look out for Items that would be useful in building those parts. I believe my best find was some decorative gears at the local Michaels Craft Store. I have picked up 2 sizes of wooden barrels, fish hooks with straight shanks and some assorted brass.

Hopefully I can use some of the gears in the winder and the windlass.

Yes I think I will Dave

One last sail, a few lines & the flag is about all that is left.

The shaping of the cap rail especially at the stem area is a slow work.
Wonder if anyone has come up with an ingenious way to have them shaped the same?

Time for another update.
 
It's amazing what a little extra time at the museum can do for progress!  Three strakes of planking completed already.
 
Here are some photos to show progress.
 
The first plank fitted!   I decided to start at the sheer strake as it's essential that the sheer line is accurately determined and the rubbing strake goes on over the planking on this ship.

 

 
Three strakes completed and she's really starting to look like a ship now.  The first batten will come off before the fourth strake is fitted.

 
The planking under the counter.  Only two strakes are visible here as the sheer strake butts onto the fore end of the counter rim frame.  On some luggers the after end of the planking is joggled into the rim frame like deck planking.

 
John
 
 
 

Another update on the planking.  I've had a bit of extra time at the museum over the New Year period so have been able to get ahead with the planking.
 
The photo show the current state of the model.
 
We're just about to leave for a week long conference up in the Blue Mountains, so I'll see you all again next weekend!
 
John
 

Time for another update.
 
I've reach what is, for me, a real milestone - the last planking batten is ready to be removed, which will leave the hull clear for the final strakes of planking to be laid.
 
John
 

 

 

 
 

Some of my sails looked whiter than others after some water/PVA washes for shaping. I wanted to show weathering so I did some more washes with tea. This time I added baking soda to the tea. It fizzed a little at first so I added more until it stopped fizzing. Hope this works- never did it this way before. Also borrowed an idea from CaptainSteve. I dry brushed some paint & smeared it with my finger to look like water staining running down from the grommets. I like the way they turned out.
 
 
 
 

Thank-you everyone for all the comments! 
 
Well, an update is long overdue - I almost feel I should introduce myself again!   
 
I struggled in the summer with which route to take for my cannons. I tried making molds and casting with resin with only limited success. The summer flew by and winter appeared and casting became a problem due to mess and allergies, or at least some reaction to the fumes. Ideally working outside is the best option, but at -20 degrees Celsius, it's not an option!
 
I had seen some paper cannons that Doris made and I thought I would give that a try. It would be easier if my scale was larger, but I don't find it too difficult. I know they are not perfect, but I am relatively pleased with the outcome and will continue with this process.
 
I am currently experimenting with weathering the cannons, so the painted one is not necessarily what the finished product will look like. 
 

 

 

 

Thank-you everyone for the well wishes! My eye is healing quite nicely.
I've put together a very basic mini tutorial and hope it may be of help to someone.
 
I bought a brass turned cannon, of the correct scale for my ship, to use as a reference model.
I had a piece of round plastic dowel on hand, which I carved and sanded until it was the same size as the reference model.
Next, I cut paper trapezoids and rolled them around the plastic dowel, and sealed with some white glue. The dowel ensured that all my cannons would be the same.
 

 

 

 
Next up, I marked the location for each ring, by comparing to the reference model and cut very thin strips of paper and glued them in place. This can be tricky since the paper tube is narrow at one end and the strip naturally wants to spiral up the tube.
 

 

 

 
The cascabels/miniature mushrooms    , were fashioned from polymer clay, then baked and glued in place. I had tried carving them from a wood dowel, but decided that clay would be a faster option.
 

 

 
At this point the "bore" was added. I dipped a toothpick in white glue and applied a thin film around the inside of the end of the cannon. Once dry I repeated once or twice more as needed.
 

 
This picture is a repeat from my last update, but it gives a good idea of the different stages.
 

 
Finally, a couple of thin layers of flat black acrylic were added and allowed to dry, followed by dry-brushing with yellow-ochre that was tamed down with a little brown.
 

 
This last picture shows the finished paper cannon beside the original brass cannon, which I also painted. 
 

 
If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

Hi Everyone,
Well I spent the past 3 days planking the Ceiling Floor in the hold and the forward cabin. Next I think I am going to finish the deck beams and the forward cabin bulkhead and bunks. I need to stat planning for paining as well. I want to paint the interior before I glue the deck beams on. Ben Lankford in his book stated that the interior of the boats were painted grey. I would have thought the interior would have been white to reflect as much light as possible. I guess I will look for a light grey. I have not decided weather to paint the interior by brush or airbrush. When I have been around wooden boats the interior seems to have had a buildup of paint on all of the surfaces. I am planning on airbrushing the hull.

Patrick, I sometimes wish that I could show of the internal framing. I too like the way it looks. I like the way you do the cut-away on your models.
 
I left off a "8 hinges" from the list of items I need to make.
 
A last update before the end of the weekend. I made the deck beams that will support the forward cabin. It went pretty quick, I only had to remake a couple of the parts.

Patrick, I sometimes wish that I could show of the internal framing. I too like the way it looks. I like the way you do the cut-away on your models.
 
I left off a "8 hinges" from the list of items I need to make.
 
A last update before the end of the weekend. I made the deck beams that will support the forward cabin. It went pretty quick, I only had to remake a couple of the parts.

Patrick, I sometimes wish that I could show of the internal framing. I too like the way it looks. I like the way you do the cut-away on your models.
 
I left off a "8 hinges" from the list of items I need to make.
 
A last update before the end of the weekend. I made the deck beams that will support the forward cabin. It went pretty quick, I only had to remake a couple of the parts.

Patrick, I sometimes wish that I could show of the internal framing. I too like the way it looks. I like the way you do the cut-away on your models.
 
I left off a "8 hinges" from the list of items I need to make.
 
A last update before the end of the weekend. I made the deck beams that will support the forward cabin. It went pretty quick, I only had to remake a couple of the parts.

Patrick,
Thank you for stopping by and for your kind works. This being my first scratch build I am happy with how the planking has turned out. But the pictures do not show everything, there are gaps at the edges and some of the planks did not lay as flat as they should. The plank thicknesses are not uniform, so I have had to soften the edges of some with a chisel blade or else they would be trip hazard.
 
I am also working at 1:24 scale, not the small scale you work at. Patrick, your planking on that scale is amazing. 1:24 scale has some advantages. I believe the gaps are not as obvious as they are in smaller scales. The drawback I am finding, is that a lot of the detail that can be omitted at the smaller scale, would be noticed if missing at 1:24 scale. When I started I figured I could get this done in about a year. I have been working on this for 7 months (I did take 2 months off over the summer, so say 5 months actual working). I think I will be doing good to have started the deck planking when 1 year rolls around.
 
I am trying to plan out long term, so I will not have to rush to get supplies when I need them. There are several items that will need to scratch built.
Windlass Stove Coffee Pot ( You can't go to sea without Coffee) Winder (Dredging Winch) Dredge Rollers Oyster Dredge Dredge A-Frame Steering Mechanism 2 Lanterns Running Lights I have been on the look out for Items that would be useful in building those parts. I believe my best find was some decorative gears at the local Michaels Craft Store. I have picked up 2 sizes of wooden barrels, fish hooks with straight shanks and some assorted brass.

Hopefully I can use some of the gears in the winder and the windlass.

Hi Everyone,
Well I spent the past 3 days planking the Ceiling Floor in the hold and the forward cabin. Next I think I am going to finish the deck beams and the forward cabin bulkhead and bunks. I need to stat planning for paining as well. I want to paint the interior before I glue the deck beams on. Ben Lankford in his book stated that the interior of the boats were painted grey. I would have thought the interior would have been white to reflect as much light as possible. I guess I will look for a light grey. I have not decided weather to paint the interior by brush or airbrush. When I have been around wooden boats the interior seems to have had a buildup of paint on all of the surfaces. I am planning on airbrushing the hull.