
Javlin
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I started this build on 7/24 and finished last night 8/24 as GB on twin engines on another site.The build allowed me for the first time to use Flory wash been seeing the name out there and honestly alot of my builds are usually pretty clean I have that fear.So,being in the PTO I figured I give it a wash these planes got baked and faded.The paint was applied with a Badger Renegade with an UF needle I can spray at that point 1/16" lines pretty good and the gun is constantly moving.The process allows for the primer to poke through ever so slightly if to much go over it some more and I did.The planes painting took about 3hrs non stop one evening to which the wings were not attached.Oh there was pre-shading done using Testors rubber color a pretty dark brown top/bottom and the paints in this case was Model Master enamels covered by Tamy Semi-gloss lacquer.I applied the wash did your standard procedure and that was it.I then started on the LG with some AK washes first time here also went subtle it's there and attacked the tires with Florys and Mig powder with slight success the sealer kinda took out the powders.The instructions called for silver LG's but I have never seen whether Navy or Marines in the PTO but with white maybe I am wrong but it does look better.
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It's Alive!!! I now frame it out in padauk 1/2"WX1/16'T I will start on the top and ends with the end being 3/8"W and the top making the last 1/8"
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Yeah Alan got a friend down the street who does commission builds of wood ships paid dearly for his last one.
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I have started on the plexiglas case measures 50"+X7 1/4"X14" something I have been shying away from has actually been easy.I have about an 1 1/4 hours cutting and gluing the four sides together I will let this sit over night and do the top tomorrow.I have seen a money making opportunity methinks fellas??I have seen people pay serious money for those 1/2 the size of this without exotic wood underneath!
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Some proper pics of the finished A/C guys.The build was pretty straight forward being a Tamy kit and all I did add an AM Pit don't ask me who but it was way better than the kit.I managed to lose a gear leg cover and had to make a new one from scratch.
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Thanks Alan this was the first build out of three A/C I was satisfied with the P-51 no issue with Eduard but once the paint started it went downhill still looked decent just not right .
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There seems to be some variations going on MM paints was like this https://missionmodelsus.com/products/green-zinc-chromate This one almost gets my vote for Bronze Green but a tad light in color may be good for some scales though. https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Green-Zinc-Chromate-Paint/dp/B002U375NK?th=1 By the way you did a bang up job on those rivets.
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This was a little build again to alleviate tedious of the ship build.The kit is the Tamy FW-190 D9 "Dora" a Nice kit something you expect from Tamiya I did add a AM Resin/PE kit forget the name nice improvement though.This is my third build of A/C getting away from the ship and they all have been difficult in the home stretch something always messing it up.The 190 build somehow I lost a gear door and my office area and shop is all hardwood laminate floors??I was close to binning the kit but said I can make it and so I did and you will be hard pressed to figure which one.She is the stand till tomorrow evening after work thought the legs were good enough not so.Thanks for looking.
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I think Tamy CG is a little bright myself what you have going looks fine I am fortunate to still have a couple bottles MM Green Chromate but your bronze green I usually find associate with the P-47's depending on which factory was doing the production.The upper turret portion on a B-25 is a bronze green while other aspects are GC. This is the best stuff I have found put some on the table tooth pick fill the seam wipe and wet a q-tip with the tongue and finish wiping dries super fast. https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-VJ70400-Plastic-Putty-17ml/dp/B000PHCNLC/ref=sr_1_3?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.H-naw4tNXC1IbDTFyMrhoN8CjPPDeP2TXbNpCsDI2yC6Kr7poqUMBKT1txBRGVKhLfHizTpcmcex4N5hRszcKykninK6v-pdi4y8XYCNrJCGDaLPSDoIDD9a8pKVjtpNy0bOXSXeqerBpd-KTAKeUVpEhYVhRvS4fvGqKMa_SJQisSigu7nL4Tr5B44xIVMa8x38DykL_fwwwN8MEomu4G1dxngyJ9moWSdK_lKqsy56S4Myw2XB6TLKg9xMC6S-fCZ216-SYe40zXQWb27IebRACd_zEIYXKE5d971n44A.ejpBeK4c5SLbG4OfCv8vtzzNpYKy1YvFxGgVfaLk6y0&dib_tag=se&keywords=model+putty+filler+for+plastic+models&qid=1720911786&sr=8-3
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A new one is about to be finished in the next week an Eduard P-51 OOB and I got to say the fit is as good as any Tamy or ICM most excellent!I am doing this build as a necessary diversion from the Scharnhorst to which I have been hacking away at for 6/8 months now.I am going to try an idea on the P-51 painting some panels in light grey and painting all one silver see if it works.
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PBY-3 Catalina by PvG Aussie - FINISHED - Wolfpack - 1/72
Javlin replied to PvG Aussie's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
That came out quite Nice! -
Woodwork/Model making workshop. Scale 1:1
Javlin replied to Charter33's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Why not sheetrock?I have for my shop 16'X30' yours is 8'X16'(?)and trust me when you start covering every little inch seems like it eats up floor space.A certain type of sheetrock for bathrooms I believed called gypsum(?) holds up to moisture well albeit little more in price could serve your purpose well and reflect light you will need.I took out a door frame from the dining room to the living room in the house and put in an arch to make the curve you apply cuts to the backside break it loose and you have an accordion that should work in the curved part of your ceiling.just throwing out some ideas from my experience it's never big enough. -
Thanks Mike was picking on you in the sister forum and Peter is about to start a 1/350 Tamy Fletcher his first ship.
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I have just about have the foredeck complete the chains are a Nice add but the mods will....lets say had abit of a cuss factor..I had to walk away.I finished it up this morning without a bit of fuss.I had to add a collar that the chain/anchor slide through some .030" rod bent around a .060" rod.I then added the smaller securing chain looping some .010" through the end twist,bend 90' and inset into the deck the chain was left over from the Schnell Boat 72 links per/inch.You will also notice the Swastikas have been updated to a more acceptable size no more sticks.I was not able to address the location of the right/green capstan it's a mirror image the setup is exactly like the left/red a Trumpter mistake Paul a French builder saw and I saw it but I thought my wooden deck fix it the capstan needed to move about 1/3" left it is what it is.I am just glad I caught and made some mods to the chains/anchor.
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The deck is now glued in markings placed the Trumpter swastikas were 1/32" basically I made these @ 1/16" 2x wider and they still look just a tad thin??The base is well on it's way to to getting finished the SS's are not glued ATTM everything can still come apart.The plexiglas comes in next week for me to cut and assemble hoping all goes well there.The crane is finished for one side now just need to rig the other I did have to add a roller not included to get close to the original design.
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Cat Esther by GrandpaPhil - 1/64 - CARD
Javlin replied to GrandpaPhil's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Looking Good Phil but you Crazy -
You did a fine job with an old Kit really came Nice and the case cost way Way more than the kit!!I have may materials on order ATTM for my build.
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I know this is a while back but I use that putty for fine seams works well I have a q-tip ready after application to wipe away that's the beauty of it no sanding.Now if gap is a bit more than a seam I might go stretched sprue lay it down in the gag liquid glue(Tamy Thin) and press it into the gap when soft then need be some plastic putty.
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