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JerryTodd

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Everything posted by JerryTodd

  1. JerryTodd
    Continued on the hammock rails. Would have gotten more done, but I only have so many clamps that will work. All the lower panels are in, the inboard upper panels on the port side, and the outboard port side ones are fitted, ready to install.
  2. JerryTodd
    Kit-bashed is better said to use a kit as a base, using other kits parts, not kits parts etc..to make a model other than that the kit was meant to be. For instance, I could bash the Revell Arizona kit into the Arizona as she appeared in the photos when the pres was aboard; as she appeared when built with cage masts, etc; as she appeared on 12/7/41, even as she appears now, at the bottom of Pearl Harbor. All those kit-bashings are still making the kit's original subject, Arizona, but different versions that that kit does not allow for out-of-the-box.
  3. JerryTodd
    Next topic: "Museum Quality"
  4. JerryTodd
    Took off the clamps this morning. The tube is the guide that routes the fores'l sheet below. All this will get painted inside before I put on the outboard panel.
  5. JerryTodd
    I don't think I'll have grating figured out in time for her next sail at the N.S. Savannah on May 17th, so I made a temporary hatch cover for the main hatch yesterday, and today made choke to hold the boats. This is just so she'll look a little better on display. I began installing the covering boards on the hammock rails, starting with the lower ones first, inboard and outboard. Once these are set, I'll install the next panel up inboard. I need to put some blocking and brass tubing in where the through blocks for the fore and main sheets come through the bulwark. I'll also paint the insides before putting the outboard cover on. They look a bit like feed troughs with stalls for farm animals at the moment.
  6. JerryTodd
    Waterways and scuppers installed and all the bulwark blocks in place
  7. JerryTodd
    Ye know while you're melting all that plastic you could be making a Macedonian figurehead in 1:36 scale.
  8. JerryTodd
    The cap rail at the bow was installed: And I started making the blocks that will make the bulwarks. Here they're just sitting on the deck near where they'll be installed, and a sketch of how they work:
  9. JerryTodd
    Only got a couple of hours in the shop today and managed to turn out this little item:
  10. JerryTodd
    Ah spring time. The air is full of fumes from glue, paint, and mineral spirits.... not to mention the neighbor's lovely smelling fertilizer. Today I continued on the hatch coamings; trimming, fitting, and building the battery hatch cover. Everything, and the hull got some paint to spiff things up a bit. I really need to figure out making hatch gratings with what I have.
  11. JerryTodd
    Started on the hatch coamings before finally calling it a day
  12. JerryTodd
    I installed the cap rail, or cap log as I call it. It covers the perimeter of the whole deck. An angled piece will go inside of it as the waterway, but we're not that far along yet. Here a fellow's setting a hammock iron on the real cap rail. I got 4 3/8" x 1/4" x 48" bass strips and two of them were simply spring into place port and starboard. Tren'led every 6" with round toothpicks, and since I couldn't clamp it down very well, I put in copper nails between each tren'l. I wiped a little cherry stain on the strips before fastening them down. I cut one of the remaining 2 strips into 3-1/2" lengths and glued them up side-by-side to make 6 1/4" x 3/4" x 3-1/2" blocks A made a card stock template of the stern and used that to shape the blocks and piece together the cap rail around the stern.
  13. JerryTodd
    The deck is down, even scraped, sanded, and given a wipe of satin poly...
  14. JerryTodd
    I'm not too concerned with it falling a hundred feet and shattering. To me it's sailing a boat with a really long invisible tiller.
  15. JerryTodd
    Got the port side planked up except for some "corners" to fill in. Didn't get to finish the whole deck - such are the best laid plans of mice and men. But then, there's tomorrow.
  16. JerryTodd
    I got a bit more done. The forward access hatch is nearly covered and that will finish all those fiddly bits dealing with it's seams. The aft hatch is done and there's decking from stem to stern, now it's filling in the bow quarters. If the glue and the wood hold out, I should have it done tomorrow.
  17. JerryTodd
    I ain't touching that till there's a sealant of some sort on the deck
  18. JerryTodd
    There will be a bit of gasket material in there - there's some card stuck there now to take up the space while I fit the decking. I'm not going for "water-tight" more like "water-resistant." Today I hope to get the aft end planked and work up the port side. I'm thinking it'll all be down by Wednesday. There's a cap that goes all around the edge of the deck, it's more like a log. I have to piece that together around the bow and stern, the sides are simply a nice long piece that springs on. I got a bag of bamboo skewers I'm going to use as tren'ls to anchor that down. While she won't be "finished" at that point, she'll look more like she is. I need to turn the spokes for the wheel and those bowling pin stanchions, but none of the wood I have handy is working out for that. I had a little boxwood which I think will do great, but I haven't been able to find it.
  19. JerryTodd
    Got TWO bottles of gel CA and continued with a few more strakes up the port side, and got down a lot of the foredeck area.
  20. JerryTodd
    I have seen a stopper knot at the sheave, and the line rove through the 2 doubles then to a belaying pin. In this case the original becket block failed (the phenolic sheave split) and they only had a double block handy. (this was on a real vessel, not a model). To me, a line made off to a eye-bolt implies that the belay at the other end is the working end and that second sheave is used but the line is made-off at the block.
  21. JerryTodd
    I was on a roll until I ran out of glue...
  22. JerryTodd
    Sometime during the Cretaceous period (2009 to be precise), when I designed and installed the deck beams, I got it into my head to make it all this thick. The plywood was what I had on hand, so that's easy, but I can't for the life of me recall why I opted to make the deck planking this thick. Not just the deck, but the deck beams as well, there's no need for them to be as large as I've made them. Pride is done the same way, but set up to use 1/16" (1mm?) planking. In her case the planking, while thinner, is about twice as wide, and using CA to glue it down may be an issue. Macedonian is going to use 1/8" luan plywood (door-skin) for a sub-deck and 1/16" thick planking over that. A 4' x 8' sheet of door-skin sells for about the same as a 1' x 2' sheet of 1/16" aircraft ply, so I'll get thicker decks, but I get fo'c's'le, quarter deck, and gundeck with a good bit of ply left over for a whole lot cheaper.
  23. JerryTodd
    About 60 pieces laid down so far. Painted the hatches and hatch wells...
  24. JerryTodd
    Making some progress. The aft access hatch requires fitting nearly every piece and makes it a bit tedious, but it's going along... Monday Tuesday
  25. JerryTodd
    Finally Spring has arrived and I got into the shop to get some work done - most of it Civil War stuff for an upcoming event, but I at least got started on Constellation's deck! I'm using CA to glue the planks down to the fiberglass over plywood subdeck, and permanent marker for the plank seams. Once I get the area around this hatch done, it'll go pretty quick until I get to the forward such hatch. The aft pivot gun will be mounted on this hatch, and I'm thinking I'll make it so that twisting the gun carriage latches the hatch shut.

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