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JerryTodd

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Everything posted by JerryTodd

  1. JerryTodd
    Only got a couple of hours in the shop today and managed to turn out this little item:
  2. JerryTodd
    Ah spring time. The air is full of fumes from glue, paint, and mineral spirits.... not to mention the neighbor's lovely smelling fertilizer. Today I continued on the hatch coamings; trimming, fitting, and building the battery hatch cover. Everything, and the hull got some paint to spiff things up a bit. I really need to figure out making hatch gratings with what I have.
  3. JerryTodd
    Started on the hatch coamings before finally calling it a day
  4. JerryTodd
    I installed the cap rail, or cap log as I call it. It covers the perimeter of the whole deck. An angled piece will go inside of it as the waterway, but we're not that far along yet. Here a fellow's setting a hammock iron on the real cap rail. I got 4 3/8" x 1/4" x 48" bass strips and two of them were simply spring into place port and starboard. Tren'led every 6" with round toothpicks, and since I couldn't clamp it down very well, I put in copper nails between each tren'l. I wiped a little cherry stain on the strips before fastening them down. I cut one of the remaining 2 strips into 3-1/2" lengths and glued them up side-by-side to make 6 1/4" x 3/4" x 3-1/2" blocks A made a card stock template of the stern and used that to shape the blocks and piece together the cap rail around the stern.
  5. JerryTodd
    The deck is down, even scraped, sanded, and given a wipe of satin poly...
  6. JerryTodd
    I'm not too concerned with it falling a hundred feet and shattering. To me it's sailing a boat with a really long invisible tiller.
  7. JerryTodd
    Got the port side planked up except for some "corners" to fill in. Didn't get to finish the whole deck - such are the best laid plans of mice and men. But then, there's tomorrow.
  8. JerryTodd
    I got a bit more done. The forward access hatch is nearly covered and that will finish all those fiddly bits dealing with it's seams. The aft hatch is done and there's decking from stem to stern, now it's filling in the bow quarters. If the glue and the wood hold out, I should have it done tomorrow.
  9. JerryTodd
    I ain't touching that till there's a sealant of some sort on the deck
  10. JerryTodd
    There will be a bit of gasket material in there - there's some card stuck there now to take up the space while I fit the decking. I'm not going for "water-tight" more like "water-resistant." Today I hope to get the aft end planked and work up the port side. I'm thinking it'll all be down by Wednesday. There's a cap that goes all around the edge of the deck, it's more like a log. I have to piece that together around the bow and stern, the sides are simply a nice long piece that springs on. I got a bag of bamboo skewers I'm going to use as tren'ls to anchor that down. While she won't be "finished" at that point, she'll look more like she is. I need to turn the spokes for the wheel and those bowling pin stanchions, but none of the wood I have handy is working out for that. I had a little boxwood which I think will do great, but I haven't been able to find it.
  11. JerryTodd
    Got TWO bottles of gel CA and continued with a few more strakes up the port side, and got down a lot of the foredeck area.
  12. JerryTodd
    I have seen a stopper knot at the sheave, and the line rove through the 2 doubles then to a belaying pin. In this case the original becket block failed (the phenolic sheave split) and they only had a double block handy. (this was on a real vessel, not a model). To me, a line made off to a eye-bolt implies that the belay at the other end is the working end and that second sheave is used but the line is made-off at the block.
  13. JerryTodd
    I was on a roll until I ran out of glue...
  14. JerryTodd
    Sometime during the Cretaceous period (2009 to be precise), when I designed and installed the deck beams, I got it into my head to make it all this thick. The plywood was what I had on hand, so that's easy, but I can't for the life of me recall why I opted to make the deck planking this thick. Not just the deck, but the deck beams as well, there's no need for them to be as large as I've made them. Pride is done the same way, but set up to use 1/16" (1mm?) planking. In her case the planking, while thinner, is about twice as wide, and using CA to glue it down may be an issue. Macedonian is going to use 1/8" luan plywood (door-skin) for a sub-deck and 1/16" thick planking over that. A 4' x 8' sheet of door-skin sells for about the same as a 1' x 2' sheet of 1/16" aircraft ply, so I'll get thicker decks, but I get fo'c's'le, quarter deck, and gundeck with a good bit of ply left over for a whole lot cheaper.
  15. JerryTodd
    About 60 pieces laid down so far. Painted the hatches and hatch wells...
  16. JerryTodd
    Making some progress. The aft access hatch requires fitting nearly every piece and makes it a bit tedious, but it's going along... Monday Tuesday
  17. JerryTodd
    Finally Spring has arrived and I got into the shop to get some work done - most of it Civil War stuff for an upcoming event, but I at least got started on Constellation's deck! I'm using CA to glue the planks down to the fiberglass over plywood subdeck, and permanent marker for the plank seams. Once I get the area around this hatch done, it'll go pretty quick until I get to the forward such hatch. The aft pivot gun will be mounted on this hatch, and I'm thinking I'll make it so that twisting the gun carriage latches the hatch shut.
  18. JerryTodd
    I assume you have the Artesia Latina kit which depicts the 1854 sloop of war being restored as a 1797 frigate. In that case, you might want to finish her as she appeared in Baltimore in those days... The gun strip was a sort-of cream color, not white.
  19. JerryTodd
    Here at the end of March and it's still cold. We got one day that peeked at 70°f but it rained and rained and the next day it dropped to the 30's again. I gotta get some heat (and AC) into that garage. They say it's supposed to get into the 60's during the week, so maybe I can finally get back to work. Timmo; Constellation's ballasted with a 2" id PVC pipe filled with lead bird shot and weighing about 42 pounds. This is attached to the hull via two ss threaded rods through aluminum tubes in the hull. The tops of these rods are hidden by the stove-pipe forward and the cabin skylight aft. She'll also get about 15 pounds in lead-shot "bean-bags" inside the hull to bring her down to her lines and trim her. My drawing of the model at the beginning of this log shows the pipe at the bottom of the hull. This gets the weight as low as possible and being detachable, makes the model lighter and a bit easier to handle out of the water. Macedonian will be getting the same basic treatment though I might use a steel pipe instead of PVC to get the same weight in a shorter pipe.
  20. JerryTodd
    "Janniary was some cold hon!" said someone from Baltimore back when February started - I'll wager they've forgotten January now. It didn't get above freezing for more than 3 days this month past, and they weren't three days together. The average high for the month was 26° f and the average low was 19° - the coldest February for this region in recorded history. Today it's 26° f with rain, snow, and sleet, with more coming and a forecast low of 19° f - ie: an average day. My garage workshop doesn't have heat, so I've brought things I'd rather not have freezing into the house; glue, paint, batteries, etc. Hopefully it'll be warmer sooner than later and I can get back to work laying Constellation's deck - along with making a Civil War field desk, a folding table for the desk, a Rev War folding cot and stool, another sea chest, and three hanging shelves to go in the loo. I'm also extending a duct from an upstairs bath into the garage ceiling to blow in heat and AC so I can bear the summer and not be froze-out next winter. The real ship is back in the water hoping the ice will clear enough for her to be moved to where her rig will be set back up, and she'll go home. Feb 28, 2015 at Coast Guard Station Curtis Bay, Maryland.
  21. JerryTodd
    Found another picture of baggywrinkle...
  22. JerryTodd
    It's been too cold in my, as yet, unheated shop to get anything done - so I'll watch you work
  23. JerryTodd
    I pressed them from the front face so the dimples are pushed back when the plate is pressed to the hull. Mind you, this is thinner peel-n-stick copper at a much larger scale (1:36), and done with nothing near the precision of your work - I offer it only to show the result I got which compared well with actual copper plating I've installed and in photos.
  24. JerryTodd
    BUT the nails are flat headed and counter-sunk - not round headed rivets
  25. JerryTodd
    First off - they could be at other places besides the bow, such as very commonly at the quarters for the main brace block. They were set in place with guys (shrouds) to hold them there - permanently.

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