hexnut

Hi everyone! Well, the deck saga continues! I decided that my second attempt at building the deck, was ok, but, after putting so much effort into Ingomar's accommodation, I felt that it had too many planks and obstructed the view too much. So, I set about building a third deck. As you'll see from the photos of the three decks, the one in the foreground is the third attempt. It has fewer planks, thus leaving more of the deck exposed. I think It looks far better than the one before.
 
I've also made a start on the most rearward accommodation, which was at the very stern of the ship where the rudder housing is. This was where six unfortunate crew members would have slept; in basic pipe cots! They could access this accommodation via a tiny deck hatch aft of the rudder post. What they must have given for the more luxirious berths I can only guess. Nonetheless, as you'll see from the photos, they don't look like much (literally like six tiny white rectangles to simulate the pipe berths), but I'll add pillows and some coloured blankets later on.
 
There's also a couple of photos of the main table in the grand saloon, amidships. If I can, I'll try to put some books on it, just to make the saloon look more lived in.
 
Lastly, you'll see that I've also started to paint the hull. I've sanded it with wet and dry sandpaper, and applied one thin coat. I'll continue to sand and paint until all the blemishes are filled.
 
Anyhow, have a nice week, everyone!
 
All the best.

Dear friends,
 
Started painting the boat, in colors close to the model in the Dutch Navy museum in Den Helder (and that I just happened to still have from K-XVIII!). Using normal brush - airbrush did not existing 1905!. "Tjetten" it was called.
 
In spite of professional blue masking tape the waterline needs some correction.
 

 

 

 
Freek

Hi all,
 
a small update, not as much as I have hoped. Very bussy last time... so the images here:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Alex

Thanks guys. 
 
Hlipplaa, sorry I must have missed your question, I used holy for planking and castello for the other details for the cutter and the longboat.
 
So here's how the story goes, the officer of the marines chased off the annoying rat that has been lurking in my ship's hold for the past years. Meanwhile Paddy the calico ship's cat indulged himself on the remaining mice on the ship and fell asleep on the marine offices bed place.
 

 

 
Remco

Yesterday , After completing KA-6 , I did the 2 part West System epoxy to the Deck.( I show that process on the A3 build log , the link is in my signature )  This morning I sanded the Deck spayed 2 light coats of primer and 2 coats of semi gloss white,(Sanding with 400 grit in between)  I masked the boat so that the White Sheer stripe ( on the Hull ) would all be shot at the same time as the Deck. Next will be to paint the Hull Blue , Then do the Deck Details. Here are the results

The next piece I worked on was the Aufbauwand hinten.  In place of photo etched parts extra panels were added to give a 3d effect.  So the first thing I did was cutout these pieces and glued them to the main piece.





Then came the fun part of gluing it to the deck.  This took some time.  Once more the old saying less is more came into play for the glue.  Just a light touch gave me all the tack I needed.  Plus no overage and weakening of the part.



So far so good.
David B

Once the aft deck was dryfitted I did the same with the front part.






Once I was sure of the fit I then glued the decks down.


So far so good.
David B

Before I finished the house I cut out the Aufbauwand hinten and started building it up.  The first part was the easiest just fold and attach to the wall.





 
David B

Probably fewer gouges in parts as well from drill bits skipping along on their merry way.
 
Well, the deck houses are done. I know I've been posting a lot of pics, but please bear with me for just a couple more with the houses on the deck. I de-shined the cabin tops a little with 400 grit sand paper. From here I move on to bitts. (Sounds like I'm going to fall apart.) Thanks for looking patiently!
 
Steve

Thanks, Pete!  I do have that drawing, as well as a ton of shots from the web. The good thing about a newer boat is that they are extremely well-documented.
 
I have the hulls rough-drafted in 3-d cad as well as some line work done, but it will probably be a while a while before I start making parts in meatspace...
 
In the meantime, I will very much enjoy being a spectator for your work.
 
The "in its element" shots of the Buzzard's bay sloop are fantastic!

Today , I started by sanding the Hull . I then turned my attention to making the Keel and Rudder , the Keel bulb was not as simple as I originally thought , Once I was happy with the Keel and Rudder , I installed them on the boat . while the glue was drying I made a better cradle for her , next I will use West System on the Keel and Rudder ( just the wetting out stage ) and get the hull ready for primer . Here are the results

Thank you David B.
 
Thank you Dr. Per , for adding  the link, I forgot about that
 
Here is Stage 2 , The nice thing about the West System Epoxy is the mixing cups and mixing sticks can be reused, as the epoxy does not stick to them. the mixing of epoxy is the same as stage 1( 1 part resin to 1 part hardner), however after you get it mixed to look like honey, Add the 406 silica and mix ( you can make it as thick or as thin as you need )and the pot life is still 45 minutes.  For this aplication , I don't need it very thick ( a little bit thinner than Peanut butter ) and using the mixing stick ( it's shaped like a small putty knife ) I applied it over the entire hull ( mainly to fill in between the planks ) I got  Kate ( my wife ) to take the photo's , In conclusion it is very easy to use, and here are the results

Hi Dr. Per , That's true,  However I think my Mom had a hand in it 
 
Dave, no cut off's , Just shorts , although all my friends all had cut off's
 
Thank you Tom, This is a hull only build , I am going to add some details in the cockpit and on deck  , This is one of those build's that I would have liked to have done on a larger scale  
 
Thanks Bob, I took the Buzzards Bay Sailing ( photos in the galley ) It's Summer time and that can only mean one thing , " America's Cup " I got bit by the bug again this year , and am doing a 4 boat campaign . The 3 hull only builds and a larger RC Boat . In the Topic : America's Cup and the AC72 , I posted the Drawings for the ORACLE AC72 and said that I would definetly follow that build log , I was speaking to Brian ( probablynot ) about it ,  Here are the drawings for the AC72
 
Best Regards,
Pete

WOW!  I've been away from the forum for a while, and I come back to see not only the Herreshoff boats nicely finished, but an incredible flotilla of AC boats!!
 
Great work, these are a real treat to see.  
 
Even though a lot of people hate them, I've been contemplating doing an Oracle AC72 for a while now...  hmmmm...

MK32 Torpedo Tubes
 
Summer activities have slowed work on the model but I'm getting some small stuff done. The 2 torpedo mounts were easy. They consist of 3 tubes and a base, all cast brittania.

The bottom 2 tubes rest on the base and the top tube rests on the two lower ones but since the breach ends are larger than the muzzle ends some spacers were added to keep the axis' of all three tubes parallel. The photo above shows what the mount looks like without the spacers.
 
Scratch additions include various junction boxes, fine wire to simulate knobs, a long storage tube on the upper tube, and the fiberglass muzzle covers 

I have started to work on the stanchions and the transom.  I have reshaped the stanchions first with a power tool with cutting disc for the rough work and then I made them nice and even with sanding sticks I made. Now they are less deep (size from the hull towards the deck) and I can start to create the fake stanchions.
 
Overview of the resized stanchions. Now there is more room for the waterways.

 
Close-up on the work I did on the stanchions

 
Also I have created a new slope between the deck and the transom which, in my eyes, better matches the pictures of the original (from Nova Scotia Archives).
 

 

I figure the deck and the stanchions, waterways, scuppers, etc. need to be done first before mounting the rail and finishing the outside of the hull, so that is where I’ll start.
 
Looking at the deck and the stanchions, there are several issues which I noted (picture):
 

 
 
1.      Deck: I have planked the deck with the mahogany supplied. I have done this as neatly as I could, with long strips fore to aft, and was happy with the result. Now I have come to realize that:
a.       No plank is that long. I will try to find a way to cut the planks even though they are already glued in place, maybe with a narrow chisel?
b.      The strips are mahogany. The real Bluenose deck was of Douglas Fir. Not quite the same color. However, on pictures of the Bluenose (black & white) the deck appears almost black, suggesting it to be fairly dark and on (color) pictures of the Bluenose II (a different ship in many ways, I know) the deck has quite the same color as mine. So I will leave it like it is.
c.       In instructions of other manufacturers I read about nibbing. Not in mine as you can guess so there are no nibs on my model. Looking at pictures of the real Bluenose I can’t make out any nibs either so I will leave this like it is as well.
d.      According to the instructions the waterways are grey. In fact, they were natural, like the deck. So I will plank these with the same mahogany with which I planked the deck
2.      Stanchions:
a.       The bulwark stanchions are too massive. According to the drawings this is correct and there was no hint in the instructions to reshape these before planking. Since it will be near impossible (for me) to reduce the width (fore to aft size) without collateral damage, I will only adjust the depth (hull to deck size) in order to be better able to fit the waterways
b.      There are only the bulwark stanchions (11) per side and, according to the drawings, that’s all there is. So I will have to create fake stanchions from scratch. Since I have no real reference as to how many there should be and mine are too wide anyway, I will place 2 or 3 between each pair of bulwarks, whichever looks better.
3.      Aft section and transom:
a.       There is a gap between the transom and the horizontal piece lying on top (picture 5). I will fill this with a piece of wood (picture 6).
b.      The deck should run all the way to the transom. The kit instructions show it stops about 1 cm in front of the (inner) transom piece, leaving room for a waterway (picture 6). On pictures of the Bluenose I saw that there is some sort of construction underneath the horizontal piece (a winch?) and that the slope seems to reach more forward to meet the deck. I will fix this by making a new slope.
c.       The horizontal piece itself does not have the right shape and there is no construction underneath, so I will need to draw and make these from scratch.
 
Picture 5:

 
Picture 6: the strip to fill the gap on the transom and the deck not running all the way to the transom

Etchings for the hatches and funnels in place, also fitted the final handrails to the turrets and primed them. none of the superstructure or decks are actually glued in place yet.
 
 

Not done much due to working on victory, but did attatch ladders and railings to turrets after filing the moulded ladders off- this is where the fiddly going boss eyed stuff starts lol

Keith

This has been on my wish list for a couple of years now! Using master gun barrells and the Eduard upgrade which although designed for the trumpeter version is usable with the zvezda one. Heres progress so far.

Basic hull went together very well- note the moulded line for if you wish to model her as waterline version.

Deck is painted with Humbrol satin oak thinned down. Care is needed as the deck planking is very finely moulded.

Master gun barrells and eduard turret overlays in place- those gun barrells sure look nice- pity they will be painted.
Keith

I thought it was about time I blew the dust off this log  
Work has been 'hopping' about a little on the hull.I have been concentrating on sorting the exposed areas of framing.Because of the line of the main deck,various knees,beams and a black ebony waterway would appear in this window between the frames.Although this would be historically correct,I decided it would add a 'ramshackle' appearance to the build and looked for an answer.I decided that an intermediate layer of thin Pear planking from the deck clamp upwards would alleviate the untidy appearance.The basis of this layer has been added on the portside but will be completed when the deck clamp has been installed.On the starboard side are temporary ABS plastic strips tack glued with CA.These guide the fitting of the pear cappings between the open frames.These ensure a nice flow along the top and bottom of the cutout to match the edges of the upper wales.When overlong caps have been fitted and the aliphatic glue has dried,these strips are removed and the cappings sanded flush inside and out.The Aliphatic wood glue does not stick to the plastic.
The three rectangular holes in the hull are to receive the deck beams.There are many more to cut,I have just done these as they were so close to the cappings and also provide a reference point as these three beams delineate the hatchway opening and capstan.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel