jablackwell

Hi Mike,
Pics of the prop for you. Counterclockwise rotation when viewing the nose of the craft (as if it was going to run you over ;-) (figure 5 in the instructions). Their prop is thinner than mine (and likely more accurate). The side view shape is correct. I could have spent more time sanding and sanding and sanding.... With this engine, the prop was attached to the engine solidly, and the WHOLE engine rotates. Amazing to see in real life actually. Very noisy things.  Here's a vid:
 
 
~john
 
 

Sorry fnkershner, I guess I should of added that. My bad
To be honest I tippy-toed my way thru this. Once I got my lifts glued together I used 120 grit sandpaper to slowly sand the outer hull. Once it looked close to the drawings and pictures then I switched to 150 grit and checked my progress using a pair if calipers. I didnt use a big piece of sandpaper, I folded the sandpaper about 3 times so it was about 1 inch by half inch so I had more control over it. I used the 6 lines under the plan drawing as section cuts and thats where I took my measurements at.
Once the outer hull was close, I Did the same on the inner hull (which was a pain). I'm still not pleased with it. The stern was the hardest part. It was hard to get that crisp angle between the transom and the "side planking". And again I used the calipers to get it down to 1/32.
 
Next time I do a boat using the lift method I'm going to sand the "laser cut" burn marks off. I assumed they would disappear as I sanded, but it didnt.
As far as the staining is concerned I've been using minwax products. Just the natural stain and the golden oak. but I make sure to use the pre-stain which I leave on for about 10 minutes before staining. Then I apply the stain (just a single swipe each way) and wipe it off after about a minute or so. 
 
Yes, I did soak the ribs before fitting. I used some old kappler lumber I've had from my model railroad days. The 1/32 x 1/32 strips that came with the kit were terrible. I spent alot of time trying to sand it properly, but after a while I just gave up and I found out that a HO scale 2 x 2 is almost the same as 1/32 x 1/32.
 

I hope this helps.
 
Richard

Hi Mike,
 
That horizontal former is glued to the pre-cut plywood frame.... just above the cutout (flush with the top of the cutout). That cutout is for the lower wing (metal brace for the main spar) to fit into. 
 
~john

Hi Mike,
 
No - I didn't use the jig, though I would recommend it. I used the plans and used the time-honored tradition of pinning down the wood to the plans. You absolutely need a completely flat board on which to build.  
 
~john
 
 

Hi Mike,
 
That horizontal former is glued to the pre-cut plywood frame.... just above the cutout (flush with the top of the cutout). That cutout is for the lower wing (metal brace for the main spar) to fit into. 
 
~john

Hi Mike,
 
No - I didn't use the jig, though I would recommend it. I used the plans and used the time-honored tradition of pinning down the wood to the plans. You absolutely need a completely flat board on which to build.  
 
~john
 
 

Brilliant, thanks John - the diagrams are very confusing, one seems to show it above and one below so your help is much appreciated.

Hi Mike,
 
No - I didn't use the jig, though I would recommend it. I used the plans and used the time-honored tradition of pinning down the wood to the plans. You absolutely need a completely flat board on which to build.  
 
~john
 
 

Mike,
Nice work on the wings and aileron hinges.  Recommendation: take some old sewing thread and tie the ailerons to the wing such that they are flat (in the same plane as the wing). This will protect them from damage, and will make running the control rigging a lot easier later on in the build.
 
Have fun with the fuselage!  ;-) 
 
Best,
~john
 

Mike,
Nice work on the wings and aileron hinges.  Recommendation: take some old sewing thread and tie the ailerons to the wing such that they are flat (in the same plane as the wing). This will protect them from damage, and will make running the control rigging a lot easier later on in the build.
 
Have fun with the fuselage!  ;-) 
 
Best,
~john
 

Mike,
Nice work on the wings and aileron hinges.  Recommendation: take some old sewing thread and tie the ailerons to the wing such that they are flat (in the same plane as the wing). This will protect them from damage, and will make running the control rigging a lot easier later on in the build.
 
Have fun with the fuselage!  ;-) 
 
Best,
~john
 

Hi Mike,
 
The instructions for this state:
"Create the lower wing dihedral by tapering
the bottom ends of the front and rear spars
so that when they are rejoined by parts
CAW38 and CAW39 they will lie flat within
the cast joints and the underside of the
outermost ribs(CAW06) will be elevated
25/32" above the work surface."
 
This means that you have to file or sand down the BOTTOM side of the lower wing's spar at the point where it attaches to the metal casting.  I used two small wood blocks, each 25/32" high, placed under the last wing rib to get the angle set correctly.  When I built the lower wing, my wing sides were not connected. The long wooden spar piece was left in two parts, with the center disconnected. That way, I did not have to saw them apart later. If you built this as one large wing, you will have to separate them into left and right wings using a knife or saw, being careful to cut precisely in the middle of the two spars. Images attached for you.
 
~john
 
 
 
 

I had maybe a meter left. It is tight, especially if you tie individual knots for each turnbuckle.
~john
 

Mike, The good folks at Model Airways will send you a new set of prop parts for you if you want.
~j
 

Nope - nothing horrible :-)  
~john

Hi Mike,
Pics of the prop for you. Counterclockwise rotation when viewing the nose of the craft (as if it was going to run you over ;-) (figure 5 in the instructions). Their prop is thinner than mine (and likely more accurate). The side view shape is correct. I could have spent more time sanding and sanding and sanding.... With this engine, the prop was attached to the engine solidly, and the WHOLE engine rotates. Amazing to see in real life actually. Very noisy things.  Here's a vid:
 
 
~john
 
 

Hi Mike,  Found you!   
Looking forward to your build here. 
~john
 

Mike,
Nice work on the wings and aileron hinges.  Recommendation: take some old sewing thread and tie the ailerons to the wing such that they are flat (in the same plane as the wing). This will protect them from damage, and will make running the control rigging a lot easier later on in the build.
 
Have fun with the fuselage!  ;-) 
 
Best,
~john
 

Mike,
Nice work on the wings and aileron hinges.  Recommendation: take some old sewing thread and tie the ailerons to the wing such that they are flat (in the same plane as the wing). This will protect them from damage, and will make running the control rigging a lot easier later on in the build.
 
Have fun with the fuselage!  ;-) 
 
Best,
~john
 

I was really brave and cut them off !! Not too bad actually with a razor saw. Sanded them down and then put them back together again !!! This time with hinges ! I have to say I nearly had a complete sense of humour failure doing those hinges - very tricky but they even go up and down. I'm impressed anyway !
 
I started the fuselage sides the other day but I have had to take them apart three times because of the stupid 'various scale' plans that I seem to have. Just when you get something spot on anther plan looks miles out ! Hey ho, we love modelling really. I have put in the corner pieces which get deadeyes and rigging attached later.
 
 

Hi Mike,
 
The instructions for this state:
"Create the lower wing dihedral by tapering
the bottom ends of the front and rear spars
so that when they are rejoined by parts
CAW38 and CAW39 they will lie flat within
the cast joints and the underside of the
outermost ribs(CAW06) will be elevated
25/32" above the work surface."
 
This means that you have to file or sand down the BOTTOM side of the lower wing's spar at the point where it attaches to the metal casting.  I used two small wood blocks, each 25/32" high, placed under the last wing rib to get the angle set correctly.  When I built the lower wing, my wing sides were not connected. The long wooden spar piece was left in two parts, with the center disconnected. That way, I did not have to saw them apart later. If you built this as one large wing, you will have to separate them into left and right wings using a knife or saw, being careful to cut precisely in the middle of the two spars. Images attached for you.
 
~john
 
 
 
 

The wings are nearly finished now. I just have to be really brave and cut off the ailerons  (!!!) before hinging them, doing the dihedral for the lower wings (blocks drying) and putting on the aileron horns.
 

Hi Mike,
 
The instructions for this state:
"Create the lower wing dihedral by tapering
the bottom ends of the front and rear spars
so that when they are rejoined by parts
CAW38 and CAW39 they will lie flat within
the cast joints and the underside of the
outermost ribs(CAW06) will be elevated
25/32" above the work surface."
 
This means that you have to file or sand down the BOTTOM side of the lower wing's spar at the point where it attaches to the metal casting.  I used two small wood blocks, each 25/32" high, placed under the last wing rib to get the angle set correctly.  When I built the lower wing, my wing sides were not connected. The long wooden spar piece was left in two parts, with the center disconnected. That way, I did not have to saw them apart later. If you built this as one large wing, you will have to separate them into left and right wings using a knife or saw, being careful to cut precisely in the middle of the two spars. Images attached for you.
 
~john
 
 
 
 

Oh silly me !! Thank you John.

Hi Mike,
 
The instructions for this state:
"Create the lower wing dihedral by tapering
the bottom ends of the front and rear spars
so that when they are rejoined by parts
CAW38 and CAW39 they will lie flat within
the cast joints and the underside of the
outermost ribs(CAW06) will be elevated
25/32" above the work surface."
 
This means that you have to file or sand down the BOTTOM side of the lower wing's spar at the point where it attaches to the metal casting.  I used two small wood blocks, each 25/32" high, placed under the last wing rib to get the angle set correctly.  When I built the lower wing, my wing sides were not connected. The long wooden spar piece was left in two parts, with the center disconnected. That way, I did not have to saw them apart later. If you built this as one large wing, you will have to separate them into left and right wings using a knife or saw, being careful to cut precisely in the middle of the two spars. Images attached for you.
 
~john