jablackwell
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jablackwell got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Hi Mike,
The instructions for this state:
"Create the lower wing dihedral by tapering
the bottom ends of the front and rear spars
so that when they are rejoined by parts
CAW38 and CAW39 they will lie flat within
the cast joints and the underside of the
outermost ribs(CAW06) will be elevated
25/32" above the work surface."
This means that you have to file or sand down the BOTTOM side of the lower wing's spar at the point where it attaches to the metal casting. I used two small wood blocks, each 25/32" high, placed under the last wing rib to get the angle set correctly. When I built the lower wing, my wing sides were not connected. The long wooden spar piece was left in two parts, with the center disconnected. That way, I did not have to saw them apart later. If you built this as one large wing, you will have to separate them into left and right wings using a knife or saw, being careful to cut precisely in the middle of the two spars. Images attached for you.
~john
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jablackwell got a reaction from Duanelaker in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Hi Mike,
The instructions for this state:
"Create the lower wing dihedral by tapering
the bottom ends of the front and rear spars
so that when they are rejoined by parts
CAW38 and CAW39 they will lie flat within
the cast joints and the underside of the
outermost ribs(CAW06) will be elevated
25/32" above the work surface."
This means that you have to file or sand down the BOTTOM side of the lower wing's spar at the point where it attaches to the metal casting. I used two small wood blocks, each 25/32" high, placed under the last wing rib to get the angle set correctly. When I built the lower wing, my wing sides were not connected. The long wooden spar piece was left in two parts, with the center disconnected. That way, I did not have to saw them apart later. If you built this as one large wing, you will have to separate them into left and right wings using a knife or saw, being careful to cut precisely in the middle of the two spars. Images attached for you.
~john
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jablackwell got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Hi Mike,
The instructions for this state:
"Create the lower wing dihedral by tapering
the bottom ends of the front and rear spars
so that when they are rejoined by parts
CAW38 and CAW39 they will lie flat within
the cast joints and the underside of the
outermost ribs(CAW06) will be elevated
25/32" above the work surface."
This means that you have to file or sand down the BOTTOM side of the lower wing's spar at the point where it attaches to the metal casting. I used two small wood blocks, each 25/32" high, placed under the last wing rib to get the angle set correctly. When I built the lower wing, my wing sides were not connected. The long wooden spar piece was left in two parts, with the center disconnected. That way, I did not have to saw them apart later. If you built this as one large wing, you will have to separate them into left and right wings using a knife or saw, being careful to cut precisely in the middle of the two spars. Images attached for you.
~john
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jablackwell got a reaction from Elijah in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Hi Mike,
The instructions for this state:
"Create the lower wing dihedral by tapering
the bottom ends of the front and rear spars
so that when they are rejoined by parts
CAW38 and CAW39 they will lie flat within
the cast joints and the underside of the
outermost ribs(CAW06) will be elevated
25/32" above the work surface."
This means that you have to file or sand down the BOTTOM side of the lower wing's spar at the point where it attaches to the metal casting. I used two small wood blocks, each 25/32" high, placed under the last wing rib to get the angle set correctly. When I built the lower wing, my wing sides were not connected. The long wooden spar piece was left in two parts, with the center disconnected. That way, I did not have to saw them apart later. If you built this as one large wing, you will have to separate them into left and right wings using a knife or saw, being careful to cut precisely in the middle of the two spars. Images attached for you.
~john
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jablackwell got a reaction from thibaultron in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Hi Mike,
The instructions for this state:
"Create the lower wing dihedral by tapering
the bottom ends of the front and rear spars
so that when they are rejoined by parts
CAW38 and CAW39 they will lie flat within
the cast joints and the underside of the
outermost ribs(CAW06) will be elevated
25/32" above the work surface."
This means that you have to file or sand down the BOTTOM side of the lower wing's spar at the point where it attaches to the metal casting. I used two small wood blocks, each 25/32" high, placed under the last wing rib to get the angle set correctly. When I built the lower wing, my wing sides were not connected. The long wooden spar piece was left in two parts, with the center disconnected. That way, I did not have to saw them apart later. If you built this as one large wing, you will have to separate them into left and right wings using a knife or saw, being careful to cut precisely in the middle of the two spars. Images attached for you.
~john
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jablackwell got a reaction from Robin Lous in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Hi Mike,
The instructions for this state:
"Create the lower wing dihedral by tapering
the bottom ends of the front and rear spars
so that when they are rejoined by parts
CAW38 and CAW39 they will lie flat within
the cast joints and the underside of the
outermost ribs(CAW06) will be elevated
25/32" above the work surface."
This means that you have to file or sand down the BOTTOM side of the lower wing's spar at the point where it attaches to the metal casting. I used two small wood blocks, each 25/32" high, placed under the last wing rib to get the angle set correctly. When I built the lower wing, my wing sides were not connected. The long wooden spar piece was left in two parts, with the center disconnected. That way, I did not have to saw them apart later. If you built this as one large wing, you will have to separate them into left and right wings using a knife or saw, being careful to cut precisely in the middle of the two spars. Images attached for you.
~john
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jablackwell got a reaction from thibaultron in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
My plans matched. Press on! It'll be fine as long as you are symmetric about the installations. Also, Ken posted some guidance above.
~john
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jablackwell got a reaction from Mike Dowling in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
My plans matched. Press on! It'll be fine as long as you are symmetric about the installations. Also, Ken posted some guidance above.
~john
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jablackwell got a reaction from Canute in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
My plans matched. Press on! It'll be fine as long as you are symmetric about the installations. Also, Ken posted some guidance above.
~john
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jablackwell reacted to Spaceman Spiff in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Why? Are you entering it for awards? Make that thing pop!
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jablackwell got a reaction from coxswain in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Nice! Those ribs are so time consuming. There were points when I was almost just DONE with the whole model thanks to these ribs. Well, now you are on your way!
~john
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jablackwell got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Hi Mike,
Pics of the prop for you. Counterclockwise rotation when viewing the nose of the craft (as if it was going to run you over ;-) (figure 5 in the instructions). Their prop is thinner than mine (and likely more accurate). The side view shape is correct. I could have spent more time sanding and sanding and sanding.... With this engine, the prop was attached to the engine solidly, and the WHOLE engine rotates. Amazing to see in real life actually. Very noisy things. Here's a vid:
~john
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jablackwell got a reaction from Elijah in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
I had maybe a meter left. It is tight, especially if you tie individual knots for each turnbuckle.
~john
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jablackwell got a reaction from thibaultron in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Hi Mike,
I took the easy way out for the wing bracing wires and did the continuous run. I tightened each length and used a tiny drop of CA on a toothpick to keep their tension. This is not always recommended, as CA gets brittle with age and can cause the threads to snap. You could do the continuous run without glue, then just add a bit of thinned wood glue to the last knot. Visibility into the wing framing is such that this style of running the "wire" will be barley noticed. For the fuselage, I tied individual knots. The wiring is much more openly visible there.
~john
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jablackwell got a reaction from thibaultron in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Mike: The great thing is that you can always slightly file or sand away the varnish where you need to glue. It works. You can also just spray the whole thing over when you are done.... that is one of the reasons I used a matte flat finish varnish.
Spaceman Spiff (love the name btw): Yep _ I completely understand your commentary. The scale is not exactly the best to do accurate colors in any way. The green is the actual zinc chromate color that has been found on some example WW1 and (definitely) WWII aircraft parts. I have omitted the firewall, which would hide the interior from view altogether. There is a lot of artistic work to bring out detail rather than to show accuracy. Anyway, all this is noted in my posts for my build (not here on Mike's build log). Trying not to hijack his log here ;-)
Best,
~john
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jablackwell got a reaction from thibaultron in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
I had maybe a meter left. It is tight, especially if you tie individual knots for each turnbuckle.
~john
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jablackwell reacted to Mike Dowling in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
I have raided the bosses sewing box and swiped some grey thread !! It will do just fine !
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jablackwell got a reaction from Canute in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
I had maybe a meter left. It is tight, especially if you tie individual knots for each turnbuckle.
~john
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jablackwell reacted to Mike Dowling in Sopwith F.1 Camel Build Log
Well I will be content to build just the one !
Progress so far : Both wings complete to the varnishing stage. I am awaiting the spray varnish I have ordered. So whilst waiting I drilled all the tiny holes in the compression bars and have wired in the turnbuckles prior to gluing. I have only shown a few so you get the idea. I reckoned it would be easier to put them on off the wings.
I have also started on the empennage although why it can't just be called tailplane and elevator is beyond me. The brittania metal castings were way off, far too small so serious adjustments were needed to all the wing ribs, nose caps etc to get them to fit in.
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jablackwell reacted to Mike Dowling in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Oh dear ! A whole update I put in seems to have vanished so I will do it again. Oops, I may have put it in John B's log by accident ! Sorry John.
Anyway I have finished both wings up to the varnishing stage and am awaiting the order for my spray varnish.
So, meanwhile I have drilled all the tiny holes required in the compression bars and wired in turnbuckles in advance of fitting them where required. I figured it would be easier to put them on first. Any way I have shown a few (not all !) for your interest.
I have also started the empennage (!) although what is wrong with tailplane and elevator ? The brittania metal castings were far too small and a lot of adjustment of the ribs, rib caps etc was needed to get them in
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jablackwell got a reaction from cog in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Hi Mike,
I took the easy way out for the wing bracing wires and did the continuous run. I tightened each length and used a tiny drop of CA on a toothpick to keep their tension. This is not always recommended, as CA gets brittle with age and can cause the threads to snap. You could do the continuous run without glue, then just add a bit of thinned wood glue to the last knot. Visibility into the wing framing is such that this style of running the "wire" will be barley noticed. For the fuselage, I tied individual knots. The wiring is much more openly visible there.
~john
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jablackwell got a reaction from Canute in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Hi Mike,
I took the easy way out for the wing bracing wires and did the continuous run. I tightened each length and used a tiny drop of CA on a toothpick to keep their tension. This is not always recommended, as CA gets brittle with age and can cause the threads to snap. You could do the continuous run without glue, then just add a bit of thinned wood glue to the last knot. Visibility into the wing framing is such that this style of running the "wire" will be barley noticed. For the fuselage, I tied individual knots. The wiring is much more openly visible there.
~john
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jablackwell reacted to Mike Dowling in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Thanks for that John. I am thinking of using very fine wire instead if thread. That would be easier with the 'continuous' method. What fun drilling all those holes in the compression bars !! And I thought the cappings were difficult !
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jablackwell got a reaction from Mike Dowling in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Hi Mike,
I took the easy way out for the wing bracing wires and did the continuous run. I tightened each length and used a tiny drop of CA on a toothpick to keep their tension. This is not always recommended, as CA gets brittle with age and can cause the threads to snap. You could do the continuous run without glue, then just add a bit of thinned wood glue to the last knot. Visibility into the wing framing is such that this style of running the "wire" will be barley noticed. For the fuselage, I tied individual knots. The wiring is much more openly visible there.
~john
-
jablackwell got a reaction from Canute in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Mike: The great thing is that you can always slightly file or sand away the varnish where you need to glue. It works. You can also just spray the whole thing over when you are done.... that is one of the reasons I used a matte flat finish varnish.
Spaceman Spiff (love the name btw): Yep _ I completely understand your commentary. The scale is not exactly the best to do accurate colors in any way. The green is the actual zinc chromate color that has been found on some example WW1 and (definitely) WWII aircraft parts. I have omitted the firewall, which would hide the interior from view altogether. There is a lot of artistic work to bring out detail rather than to show accuracy. Anyway, all this is noted in my posts for my build (not here on Mike's build log). Trying not to hijack his log here ;-)
Best,
~john
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