alde

I haven't posted an update in a while.  With warm weather and long days, I've been enjoying springtime outdoor activities, so work on my Cheerful has been on a seasonal back burner.  I have found some time to get the shelf built where Cheerful will eventually live.  I'm using a shelf that is made from edge glued pieces of wood,  I've sanded it down, rounded the edges, and stained it using an oil based stain.  It's an odd size of 33 1/2 inches long by 14 3/4 inches wide.  It looks big compared to the hull of the ship, but as you can see from the spars I've temporarily laid out, when fully rigged, the ship will be much larger.  The shelf is a couple of inches longer at both the bow and stern than the length of the ship with the boom and bowsprit installed, and an inch and a half wider than the main spar.  I located the studs in the wall and attached the shelf with two 10" x 10" L shaped steel brackets screwed into the studs with 2" screws.  As a fan of overkill, I think the shelf would easily hold 100 pounds.  The goal was to have it be as solid as possible so that when the ship is finished, if I ever bump the shelf, it won't move at all and damage the ship.  I'll just have to live with a bigger bruise if I bump it.  Haha!  Also, I put a lot of thought into what height I wanted to display the ship.  After much measuring, and taping the fully rigged plans to the wall, I settled on a shelf height of 46 1/4 inches, which when the Cheerful is on it's base, puts its cap rail height at 52". The photo is taken from my eye height.
 
This photo is a quick grab shot with my phone.   When the ship is finished and ready for display, those pictures on the wall will be moved.  Also, it's hard to see in the photo, but there is a 2 inch gap between the stern end of the shelf and the wall.  I didn't want to center the shelf between the wall on the left and the edge of the closet door on the right, because with it sticking out almost 15 inches I'm concerned it would be too easy to bump into.  That, and it will be easy enough to view the ship from straight in front of it as is.
 
Erik

A quick update.  Yesterday I received the brass name plates I had custom made for me.  They're not permanently fixed to the base yet.  The small one gives a shout out to my dad who got me into modeling as a kid, and always has been my biggest cheerleader when I showed him what I was building.  The name plates are a little hard to see in the photos with the Cheerful mounted.  The photos are taken in front of a window, so are backlit.  The ship will be displayed on the opposite wall, so the base won't be shaded, and the plates will be easy to read.  My next steps now are to get the shelf and mounting hardware, and get that built.
 
Erik
 

Thanks for all the likes folks.  I wasn't planning on posting an update today, but I think the display turned out well, so here are some photos.  I had no idea what I wanted to do for a display base.  After browsing through what other folks have done, I settled on brass pedestals on a solid wood base.  I liked the look of Glenn's (glbarlow) base for his Cheerful build.  So as they say, with imitation being the sincerest form of flattery, I pretty much duplicated what he had done.  The pedestals are from Model Expo and the wood base is made by Amati (which I ordered from Ages of Sail).  When the pedestals arrived I was disappointed that not only did they appear different colors, but the profiles were actually different.  I purposefully ordered them different heights since the Cheerful's keel rides deeper at the stern.  The photos on the Model Expo site are just generic and aren't of the actual pedestals.  The profile of the lower pedestal is fatter at the bottom of the shaft and flares out more gradually.  I could have lived with the different profiles I guess, but I figured out a way to chuck the pedestal into my power drill.  Using a couple of sharp files and my calipers to measure, I turned the pedestal to better match the profile of the taller pedestal.  Once I had this done I began the slow process of filing the notches in the pedestals to exactly match the keel of the ship.  This took days, but I'm happy with the results.  The keel fits in snuggly enough to have no room to move or wiggle, but still not be tight enough to damage the wood.  To finish the pedestals off, I dry sanded them with 400 grit sandpaper.  This made the finish look the same between the two, and gave them the brushed brass look I wanted. 
 
The hardwood base from Amati is great.  It's a rare piece of wood these days that is level and square with no warping (if you've shopped for wood at your local hardware store, you know what I mean).  I thought I had ordered the bare wood version, so was surprised when I opened the box that it was stained.  Since I like the color though, it saves me from picking a stain and doing it myself.  The base has a satin finish, which I like, not too mat and not too glossy.
 
Erik

She looks amazing. 

I'm taking a break from building the New York Pilot Boat Phantom and going to start building the Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways.  I chose this model because there are some great sources of information beside the kit instructions, there is a Practicum by Robert E. Hunt via Lauck Street Shipyard, and some great Ship Logs, especially CiscoH's. 
     Here is the normal start picture of the box,

I started by removing the laser char from the center keel, keel, sternpost and stem.  I might have removed to much from the sternpost notch, but I think I can work around that.

I'm going ahead and using the included walnut for the keel, sternpost and stem.  I'm trying to decide now if I only put one level of planking or do the two levels per the instructions.  I don't think I want to use the walnut since I plan to paint the haul but would like to keep the definition of the planks.  I would have to buy some additional planks if I went with two layers.  Not sure what wood is available and pre-cut for planking, especially at the thickness of the walnut planks, 0.02 inch.  Plus, I don't have a way to cut planks to width and thickness.
 
Any recommendations would be appreciated.
 

Now for a bit of nostalgia, how many under 40 modelers know what the picture is of?

Nothing like a good set of K&E drafting instruments. Since I was going to get a engineering degree, I figured I would by a good set of instruments in my senior year of high school.  But by the time I came back from the Navy and started school, my slide rule and drafting tools were becoming obsolete.  Bought my first calculator a short time after I started back at school, an TI SR-10, 4 function calculator with scientific notation, It lasted about 18 months before I upgraded and then upgraded again 2 years later to an HP with everything and formula memorization.
 

Good Sunday evening MSW.  I got a little done this week.
 
I decided there was no way I wouldn't break the stand if I glued it on now so decided to add it later.  I touched up the faux beam ends with black paint and moved onto the decking.
 
The kit comes with printed decking and exterior planking but that would be easy.  I did my usual plank preparation of cutting strips from my shrinking billet of holly and smoothed the rough side with my Veritas string thicknesser.  The decking is curved so the easiest way to replicate it was tracing the edge of the pre-printed decking onto my holly strip, smoothing to the traced line, and using my trusty compass to mark the width.  I cut the concave side with a scalpel, then smoothed with sanding sticks.  I like to mark my planks with a pencil triangle to keep track of order.  And when I inevitably drop one (or all of them) I can instantly recreate their order.

For anyone following this procedure be aware that the planks are not all exactly the same width - some of the middle ones are narrower than the others.  Not by much but if you want your decking to exactly match the printed version some fudging will be required.  I sanded each board as I went to match the curves as closely as possible, and used #2 pencil for caulking.  I also edge glued each board with yellow glue which has some gap-filling abilities.
 
Here is the deck after glue only.  I tried to match the spacing and width of the printed version as closely as possible. I know it looks rough.

After scraping the glue beads off I trimmed the edges back to almost flush (the Veritas mini plane is such an essential tool), sanded with sticks using 180, then 220 grit, then applied 2 coats of water based polyurethane.  Now it looks like below, which I'm happy with.

Also in the above pic I have added the interior planking.  The kit provides a single piece of AYC which could be glued in place; I choose to cut it into separate planks.  The bottom one I glued to the laser-cut spirkiting, making it thicker.  (Its a different colour in the above pic b/c its been polyurethaned while the planks above it haven't yet.)  On the top 3 planks I sanded the edges so they have a subtle bevel; I think the directions say to paint the inboard all red and I was worried the planking seams wouldn't show. 
 
And at present its all drying.  Next up is enlarging the inner planking holes so they match the gunport and sweep port holes, then planking the outside.
 
thanks for reading
 
Cisco

Well, I worked all day today, continuing Surprise stuff.
 
This morning, I decided to make the templates for the fore and quarterdeck bulwarks, which are to be pre-cut. So first, the upper deck and beams were to be removed. My initial idea was to do the same I did for Indy, with most of the outer sides planked. 
 
However, I could not get the thought out of my mind just how nice the sides would look if they were pre-cut and engraved, with treenail detail - that would look great when painted ochre (or just varnished). So, with this in mind, I made a template for the whole of the hull side down to the top of the main wale line (or in Surprise's case, where the planks get thicker).
 
The pics show the end result of a day’s work, with many templates laser cut in white PolyBak, with each successive template (and there were many) tweaked a little more until, eventually, the final template is cut in the material that will be used in the kit, pear, shown in the pics. There was no warping to the undersides near the bow, and curved around very nicely on my disposable 'mule hull'
 
The downside to this, and the reason I initially dismissed doing this, is cost (0.8mm pear sheet needing to be 800mm long and 4 required just for the outer hull) and time. It will increase the overall cost to the kit. But it does mean planking, like on the smaller kits in the range, is relegated to the bottom half of the hull only, with all upper sides being completely pre-cut and laser engraved. It also means I can work slots into the bulwark sides for the fore, main and mizzen channels, these worked very well for the new Speedy and Harpy.
 
I hope I have made the right choice..
 
Oh, for the rudder fixing, I am doing the same as I did for Indy, with 3-d printed gudgeon and pintles that simply slot into the rudder and rudder post, I do very much like this method as it is both simple and looks accurate.
 

OK, I added the upper deck beams, all fine, and then added my one off special 0.8mm ply deck, ready for next stage of development.

Took a diversion for a couple days.  I've had Chuck's Syren Servo-Matic in storage for over 2 years gathering dust.  Since it's a skill I've not developed and one I will need for the rigging, I decided to sniff test my device and see if it was working, and whether I was up to actually being capable of serving my rope...something I did not do on the Sultana.  
 
So...long story short...it worked and I was able to serve a 20" section of 0.035" tan rope I had laying around with some black cotton thread.  The problem I had was then thing was so squeaky my teeth were itching.  This is where I did something REALLY DUMB!  The squeaking was driving me insane and it was late...so my sleep addled brain said, "Hey...squeaky stuff needs WD-40!"  So without thinking (at all), I took a few drops of WD-40 and dropped them into the joints.  Boom...squeaking disappeared.  You can see the WD-40 streaked wood below.
 

Suddenly, the cog connected to the rotating lever started to slip and it fell completely off.  I had to look it up, but yeah...WD-40 dissolves CA glue.  Who knew?  Besides the fact you shouldn't use it on wood in the first place...I'm an idiot.  Instead if trying to glue it on again, I decided to get some new washers and some 'R' pins.  Drilled some holes into the brass tubing sections where I needed them, and used a simple tack to lock in the cog with the R pin...waalaaaa.  
 


I also put in holes for R pins on both outward facing brass sections so I could use them to lock in various attachments I made for finicky bits I will need to serve later on.  Final fiddly bits with my newly repaired and fully QUIET and functioning Servo-Matic in the last pic. 
 



I served up a 24" section of the same 0.035" tan rope with black silk thread and the result was astounding as well as fairly quick.  I came away with newfound confidence that serving rope is not the bugbear I thought it was...so it gave me a little confidence boost. 
 
Moving on....
 

I got a little more work done on my 36’ Pinnace this weekend! It doesn’t help that I almost cut off the tip on my thumb yesterday.

I’m finally getting some time to work on my Constitution again! I apologize for my absence but now that the two commissions and the plane I started in October are done I’m hoping to have at least a little more time to build!
I’ve gotten a lot closer to completing my 36’ Pinnace and I’m mostly finishing up the details!

I’ve gotten a little more progress on my 36” Pinnace today! I jut need to make the cleats and the rudder. I also need to decide if I’m going to have the ores or if I’m going to leave them off.

My scratch built 36’ pinnace base is now done and I have it installed on my 1/76 scale Model Shipways USS Constitution!

Checking figurehead in relation to bowsprit, and the fit of the new stove. Pics not too flattering, but this hull is only used as a basis to check important parts and finalising the more important aspects of the hull designs. So now, I know that the whole hull goes together very well, all the gun and upper deck beams fit perfectly, and the bulkheads will give a nice run for the outer planking.
 
Also inner bulwarks shown, these do take an age to get right, due to curves and the amount of upper deck beam slots. These are cut and checked using ply, but kit version will have pear versions, engraved and all positions marks or cut for all inner bulwark fittings - I always hated having to plank inner bulwarks, very awkward and there was always the real chance of some planks splitting or breaking off when filing the ports - not anymore!

Very good news for the "froggies"! I'm very interrested
 
La Tourterelle : A 24-gun french frigate built in Honfleur and commissioned in May 1794. Displacing 350 tons with a length of 38.20 meters, she was captured by the British frigate HMS Lively off Cape Lizard on 13 March 1795. Renamed HMS Tourterelle, the corvette was sunk in 1816 to serve as a breakwater in Bermuda.
 

Second Surprise prototype starting to take shape - again, MDF for beams, as this will be discarded once I have all the info I need from this hull...

Thanks for the detailed response. That's really good of you to have both options available. I love the book series and the movie but I'm pretty sure I would prefer the 1796 option. 

Chris, I don't know if this is answered somewhere else but I'm wondering if the upcoming HMS Surprise will be based on the actual 18th century ship or the movie ship? I will be getting it either way but I'm just curious. 
 
Thanks, Al

A few years ago, I purchased four Model Shipways kits plus boxes of spare parts.  Why I purchased these, I don’t know.  Maybe, it was related to the “Pirate ship” I saw at a friend’s house when I was eight.  It was the most fantastic ship I had ever seen.  The detail was incredible.  My friend said that his dad had built it.  That experience started my model building era. My first attempts were simple wood boat and plane kits.  This led to rubber band powered airplanes, then as I got older, gas-powered control line airplanes.   Since I could not control them, it tried gliders.  These were great except they seem to continue to glide out of sight.  Finally, I tried radio-controlled boats (I skipped radio-controlled airplanes because they crash).  The last models I built were Sterling models of the USS Missouri and the Chris Craft Corvette.  That was 60 years ago. 
 
Brushing the dust off the various boxes, I decided to build the US Brig Syren (Model Shipways Syren kit MS2260).  Mainly because it had the most readable/detailed instructions.  Reviewing the manual, it became clear that this was not a model for a beginner.  After some research, I decide to buy the Model Shipways Wooden Boat 3-Kit Kombo to see if I still had the skills to tackle building the Syren.  In October (2022) I completed the last of the three kits.  They looked OK to me; therefore, I decided to give it a go.
 
During my research phase, I ran across this website, and decided to join.  Reviewing the build logs, I found over 50 that had, or were, building the Syren model.  Skimming through these logs I became aware of many issues associated with building this model and a significant amount of knowledge available on the site to deal with these issues.  The question I had was whether to start my own build log, or just read those that were already posted.  Without answering this question, I started building the Syren in November (2022).  I kept waffling on the question until recently when I saw three new Syren Build Logs posted.  Why not a fourth?  So, here I am.
 
Started the build on November 19, 2022 by reviewing the contents and verifying that the kit was complete, and that all parts were in good usable condition.  I plan to follow the instruction manual included in the kit (Modeling the US Brig Syren 1803 prepared by Chuck Passaro); plus, comments from the Build Logs on the Model Ship World web site.
 
Completed steps to date:
 
1.      The bulkhead former was lightly sanded using 150 grit sandpaper.  Only the loose laser char was removed. I read that removing the char does not necessarily improve the glue bond.  This was tested by gluing two scrap charred edges together using Elmer’s Carpenter Glue.  After the glue had set over 24 hours, I separated the two pieces.  The fracture surfaces were nonhomogeneous, meaning parts of one piece were still attached to the second piece, which indicates a strong bond.
2.      Contoured the 3/32” x 1/16” basswood strip to the bulkhead former and glued in place using Elmer’s Carpenter Glue.  Also, glued the stern 3/32” x 1/16” basswood strip and the 3/16” x 3/16” basswood strip keel.
3.      Used French Curves to draw the beard line on the port side using the burn through marks for alignment. Carved the rabbet from the port and starboard bearding lines as described in the manual.  Sanded as best as I could.
4.      Before starting on the bulkheads, the bulkhead frame was modified by adding slots for the masts.  Several build logs described doing this by transferring the orientation of the masts to the bulkhead former using the provide plans. An analysis of seven builds that predrilled mast holes found a significant variation in the placement of the mast slots in the bulkhead former.  The distance of the center of the mast from the bottom stern edge of the #8 bulkhead slot ranged from 3/16” to 3/8” with an average of 5/16”.  One possible cause for the differences may be that the plans are scaled slightly smaller than the actual model. Because the builds had good results, it seems that any offset between 3/16” to 3/8” of the mast slots should work.
 
Mast angles were determined using Syren Sheet 4 – Inboard plan, Figure 1.    Decided to use a distance of 9/32”.  As done by others, I used 1/16” basswood to box the slots, Figure 2.
 
 
 

 
5.      Removed all the bulkheads and tested them in their slots.  All were relatively loose.  Decided to use spacer blocks rather than shims to stabilize the bulkheads and to make sure the bulkheads are aligned at right angle to the bulkhead former.  The filler blocks were made from 1” x 2” basswood.  Because I wanted to test the symmetry of the bulkheads (suggested by Frank Mastini; Ship Modeling Simplified) after fairing, the bulkheads were not glued in place while making the filler blocks.
 
Prior to cutting the filler blocks, the distances between the different bulkhead slots were measured several times using a caliper.  Within 0.01”, several bulkheads were separated by similar distances:
 
L→N, N→P, 24→26: 9/16” (0.55”)
D→H, H→L, 4→8, 8→12, 12→16, 16→20, 20→24: 1 5/16” (1.30”)
X→D, 4→X: 1 ½” (1.50”)
 
To cut filler blocks of similar widths, a stop block was added to my 10” miter saw (Figure 3). The width of the block (W) was set by measuring from the black vertical line on the miter saw fence to the vertical stop (a) on the stop block.  When “a” is aligned with the vertical black line, the edge “e” is at the saw blade.
 
Before cutting any fillers, the horizontal and vertical cuts of the miter saw were verified to be right angles. Filler blocks were cut slightly oversize, then sanded to fit using an inexpensive disc sander (purchased at Menards).  For each of the three filler block widths, a first pair of blocks was cut and tested between the two appropriate bulkheads. After the width was verified, the remaining blocks of the same width were cut and sanded to fit.
 

 
To align the bulkheads, I used a method similar to that shown in a figure in the builder’s log of US Brig Syren by Rafine.  I ordered two 3” x 2 ½” x 2” slotted right angle plates from Amazon (cheapest I could find).  Starting with bulkheads X and D, one right angle plate per bulkhead was used to align bulkheads X and D to the bulkhead former.  The distance between the two bulkheads was measured at the bulkhead former and the port and starboard edges of the bulkheads to insure they were properly aligned.  Two filler blocks were cut slightly oversized from the basswood.  The cut edges of the blocks were sanded until they fit snuggly between the two bulkheads, then glued in place.  For the remaining filler blocks, the appropriate bulkhead was aligned using both of the right-angle plates, Figure 4.
 

 
In my hurry to finish the filler blocks, I neglected to do preliminary shaping of the filler blocks that extended beyond the bow and stern bulkheads.  A Dremel tool with a double cut tungsten carbide burr was used to do the bulk reduction.  Final contours were achieved by sanding using sandpaper grids of 60, 100, and 150, Figure 5.
 

 
 
6.      The bulkheads were not glued in place; therefore, they could be removed as desired during the fairing. When in place, the bulkheads were very stable and did not move significantly during the fairing.  To simplify the process, bulkheads X through P were faired together, Figure 6, followed by 4 through 26, then D through 8.  By doing the fairing in sections, it was easy to hold the bulkhead former during the sanding.  It also helped avoid breaking the thin extensions. Unless you drop it, which I did, resulting on one broken extension.  This was glued back in place, and reenforced with basswood.  I also learned not to sand the bulkheads using a bow to stern motion as this removed some of the wood from the bulkhead; especially in the extensions, Figure 6.
 

 
7.      At the completion of the fairing, the contours of each bulkhead were compared to the contours shown on Syren plans. Templates were made by transferring the contours to 4”x 6” index cards using graphite paper and a metal stylus.  A sharp #11 Xacto blade was used to cut the card along the transcribed line.  Comparisons to the templated were easy to do because the bulkheads could be removed from the bulkhead former and laid on a flat surface, Figure 7.  Where a bulkhead contour differed significantly from the template, filler pieces were added, then faired to shape. This method helped to maintain the symmetry of the fairing.
 

 
This is where I am today.  My next steps will be to glue the bulkheads and test the fairing as described in the manual.  
I added figures using cut and paste method rather than uploading.  When uploading, the size of the images was in the megabytes.  I didn't think that kind of resolution was necessary for these image.

RD, the Amati Keel Clamp seems to be popular. I don't have one, so these are what I am using:
 

 

Based on comments, a good reference may be the distance of the sill tops above the deck base adjacent to the stanchion (V; Figure). As a retired scientist, I decided to see if Jim’s comment that the sill height is 3/16” above the deck base is correct.  This was also proposed by Abelson (“the gun port sills are 3/16” above the top of the BHs: 1/16” for the plank. 1/16” for the waterway, and 1/16” for the swivel bracket”).
 
    
 
To test this theory, distances were measured using a digital caliper for all of the bulkheads on both the port and starboard sides. Distances were measured using Sheet 3 Parts Template at three different sessions.  During each session six separate measurements of the sill height were made for each bulkhead: three on the port side and three on the starboard side; or 234 separate measurements.
 
There were two issues in making measurements using the Sheet 3 Parts Template.  First, the thicknesses of the lines were different (Deck line thickness was 1/64”; Bulkhead sill mark thickness was 1/128”).  This required using the centers of the line widths for the measurements.  Second, accuracy of the templates, which is unknown. I assumed they accurately represented the bulkheads.
 
Skipping all the boring details, for all measurements, the average sill height was 0.186” or 0.002” less than 3/16” (0.188”) with a standard deviation of 0.012”.  This means that 2/3s of the sill heights varied less than 1/64” (0.016”) from 3/16”, and all were less the 1/32” (0.031”); therefore, assuming that all the sills are 3/16” above the deck is reasonable (good observation Jim and abelson).  That said, the data indicates that the sill height gradually decreases from the bow to the stern by about 1/32” (0.031”): bow 13/64” to stern 11/64”, see graph.  Overall measurement error was 0.012” or about 1/64”.
 
Well, that was fun, but of questionable value.  I guess it is time to start Chapter 3.
 

See my build log as well. It’s good to take your time here. I overthought it as well. I wanted to be sure I accounted for the width of the deck timber, plus the height of the waterways, plus the width of the carronade mount…and in my case, also the width of the faux deck installed before the deck timber. 
 
I saw quite a few builds take the placement of the window sills for granted and realize after the deck was on that the sills were too low to account for the waterways and carronade swivel mounts. It easy to overlook. Measure twice…glue once! 

2/18/2023
After multiple attempts at aligning the port and starboard battens, I came to the conclusion that the marks on the bulkheads were not going to work for me. I needed reference points on which the batten could rest while it was being fixed in place.
 
The reference points were made using scraps from the bulkhead sheets B and C.  The section representing the deck and the inside of the bulwark stanchion was removed by cutting along line C, see Figure 1.  The cut-out section was reinforced by gluing a 1/16” basswood support in region B.  1/16” basswood was used to make the two references, R, that would support the batten.  After the glue had dried overnight, the reinforced section was clamped to a right-angle plate to hold it vertically while the refences blocks, R, were glued in place, Figure 2. It was important that the bottoms of the reference pieces were aligned with the lowest points of the deck and fell on a straight line (yellow line of Figure 1).
 
   
 
Five bulkheads were selected to provide reference points: N, D, 4, 16, and 26.  The heights of the reference blocks R were 13/64”, 25/128”, 3/16”, 23/128”, and 11/64”, respectively.  The values came from a linear fit to the measure sill heights above the deck.  Why I didn’t use 3/16” for all the references I don’t know.  The jigs were held in place by clamping to the port and starboard bulwark stanchions, Figure 3.  In theory, the battens should have been at the same height on both the port and starboard sides at the five reference points.  In between, who knows.  The shapes looked symmetrical by eye, but not perfect.  At this point, I have had enough and decided to move forward.  The bottom of the batten was marked on the bulkhead edges, and “horizontal” lines were drawn fore and aft sides of the bulwark stanchions using the port and starboard marks as reference.  
 

 
3/2/2023
During the process of fitting sill pieces between the bulkheads, I discovered one reason why I was having so much trouble lining up the batten.  While gluing the bulkheads to the bulkhead former, I did not notice that three of the bulkheads were not seated all the way.  They were not off my much; however, it was enough to screw up the positioning of the batten.  The net result was a lot of additional sanding to get the deck height the same across the bulkheads. After the sanding, the bottom of the batten was 3/16" above the deck at each bulkhead.
 
When I set up the batten, I aligned it above the sill line rather than below it.  The reason was that I could the use the batten to align the sill pieces.  Additionally, I split a tongue blade in half, then shaped one end of each half to match the inside profile of the bulwark stanchions. The two tongue blade halves were used to define a horizontal line on each of the bulkheads between which the sill piece was to be placed, Figure 4.  The two halves of the tongue blade, the bulkheads, and the batten defined the position of the sill piece during gluing.
 

 
 
Completed the sills on both the port and starboard sides, Figure 5.  After sanding, I found that the sill thickness was somewhat less than 5/32”.
 

 
 

Finally finished placing the port and starboard sills. To align the lintels, I made a 15/32” x 15/32” spacer using 3/16” x 3/16”, 1/16” x 3/16”, and 1/32” x 3/16” bass wood strips.  All the strips were cut to 12”.  The 1/16” and 1/32” strips were glued between two 3/16” square strips.  This gave a thickness of 15/32”.  The 12” length was cut in half.  The two halves were glued together with 15/32” lengths of the 1/16” and 1/32” strips stacked as spacers.  This made a 5/32” x 5/32” x 6” spacer, Figure 5.  The 6” length was long enough to reach the port and starboard lintels at the same time.
 
 
 
 
Before the glue set, the lintel inside surface was aligned to the inside edges of the adjacent bulwark stanchions.  This minimized the amount of interior sanding required. After the lintels were permanently in place, I realized that basswood was placed with the 1/4" side vertical rather than horizontal.  The result was that the lintel tops are higher than the bulwark stanchions.  The 3/16” width was wide enough to get the proper curve at the bow, so I guess I am OK; plus, this required less sanding.  Preliminary sanding was done using 60 then 100 grit sandpaper to reduce the thickness of the lintels to the thickness of the bulwark stanchions.
 
My initial intent was to use the 15/32” spacer to align the gun port sides; however, as Jim (Oldsalt1950) stated, not all of the gun ports are square (Thanks for the reminder, Jim).  Therefore, the spacer was split into two pieces that were 15/32” x 3/16” x 6”.  The gun port side closest to a bulkhead was placed first.  The 3/16” side of the basswood was aligned vertically and horizontally parallel to the bulkhead.  After the glue set, the 15”/32” x 3/16” x 6” spacer was used to align the second gun port side to the first at the top and bottom.  This process was used for all the gun ports except for the two most anterior gun ports.  For these gun ports, the 3/16” bass wood sides were aligned as shown on the plans.  The inside edges of the gun port sides were aligned to the inside edges of the sill and lintels to minimize interior sanding.
 
The starboard side was done first.  For the port side, the 15/32” x 3/16” spacer was placed in the starboard gun port, then aligned parallel to the bulkheads.  This defined the positions of the gun port sides on the port side except for the two anterior gun ports.
 
A similar process was used for the sweep ports using a 1/8” x 1/8” x 6” spacer to align the sweep port tops and sides.  For the sweep port sides, 1/8” x 1/4” basswood was used instead of the 3/16” x 1/4” basswood.
 
Final sanding was done using 100 grit sandpaper to reduce the bulwarks to about 3/32” and 1/8” at the top and bottom, respectively.  Finish sanding was done with 150 and 220 grit sand papers.  Initially, thickness was measured using a caliper; however, this proved to be too time consuming.  To simplify the measurement process two thickness jigs were made: one for 3/32” and one for 1/8”, Figure 6.  The jigs made measuring the thickness a very simple process.
 
The final contours of the bulwarks were checked using the top half of the templates used to check the fairing of the bulkheads.  Lesson learned: watch where you are sanding.  Elmers PROBOND wood filler was used to correct areas sanded too aggressively: generally, just below the lintels.  The Elmers worked much better than my previous wood filler, and it was on close out at Menards.  Figures 7a and b show the finished framing of the gun ports and sweep ports.
 

 

 
Next steps: Taxes then Chapter 4.