HMS Bounty by bryanc - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:48

[Captain Al]

Bryan, good recovery and perserverence. I don't know if I'd have had the determination to do that. I've made lots of mistakes along the way and just as many work arounds to avoid removing pieces. Now as for those beams not fitting really well...of course mine didn't fit well either and I attribute that to the frame positions or maybe even the cut of the frames. The beams themselves were probably not at fault. Anyway, not to be a downer but you may very well encounter issues when you lay that top deck. You can refer to the early pages of my log to see what I went through. I had to shim up the beams in a lot of places to remove the spongy effect, and shim and/or file down the frame notches. You'll find a way to make that darn thing sit well and a liberal amount of glue on the beams and underside of the false deck will hold it down well. When you are ready to lay the false deck down, mark the edges where it will lay across the beams and then draw a line across the width of the deck at that point. Then you can apply a line of glue across the line so it matches up with the beam. I always like to glue two surfaces if possible. I have to laugh when I think of how I weighted down the deck as it was drying. I'd also advise not to put too much furniture and stuff down below until all is well with the infrastructure. You never know where and how you are going to have to cut or file or maneuver something and stuff on the second deck can get in the way. I noticed you've put in the stove already and you're considering coal bins (I used dried redwood twigs to whittle up some "logs" and put them in wood bins next to the stove). I would wait on all that stuff. Just my opinion for what its worth.

[bryanc]

Brian,

 

My pleasure to help...and it looks like you've recovered nicely 

 

This may be overkill, but I put dowels through the beams into the frames at a slight angle.  After I glued the beams down, with a steady hand and dremel/drill I was able to drill the holes very quickly then glue and push the dowels in.  I don't want anything coming loose years down the road.   Yes, some of the beams were a bit short (used a small shim to tighten).

 

You can see pictures of the dowel install in my build log if you like. 

 

Thanks for the info on the plants 

 

I am quite familiar with your build log Thomas, its your turned chocks that have inspired me to go down the same road, and encounter much frustration trying to emmulate your ballusters! I can't find any photos showing the beams dowel install, although one photo shows eveidence they are there.

[thomaslambo]

Brian,

 

Yes, you're right now that I look at my log I never included pictures of the actual process.  

 

I just used a counter sink to guide the drill (which was taped to control the depth of the hole that got drilled).  Once I had the holes drilled I checked to make sure the dowel pushed in snugly but easily.  Then I dropped a bit of PVA in the hole and very quickly pushed the dowel in.  Then I cut of the excess dowel and sanded it clean. 

[bryanc]

Bryan, good recovery and perserverence. I don't know if I'd have had the determination to do that. I've made lots of mistakes along the way and just as many work arounds to avoid removing pieces. Now as for those beams not fitting really well...of course mine didn't fit well either and I attribute that to the frame positions or maybe even the cut of the frames. The beams themselves were probably not at fault. Anyway, not to be a downer but you may very well encounter issues when you lay that top deck. You can refer to the early pages of my log to see what I went through. I had to shim up the beams in a lot of places to remove the spongy effect, and shim and/or file down the frame notches. You'll find a way to make that darn thing sit well and a liberal amount of glue on the beams and underside of the false deck will hold it down well. When you are ready to lay the false deck down, mark the edges where it will lay across the beams and then draw a line across the width of the deck at that point. Then you can apply a line of glue across the line so it matches up with the beam. I always like to glue two surfaces if possible. I have to laugh when I think of how I weighted down the deck as it was drying. I'd also advise not to put too much furniture and stuff down below until all is well with the infrastructure. You never know where and how you are going to have to cut or file or maneuver something and stuff on the second deck can get in the way. I noticed you've put in the stove already and you're considering coal bins (I used dried redwood twigs to whittle up some "logs" and put them in wood bins next to the stove). I would wait on all that stuff. Just my opinion for what its worth.

 

Al, your opinion is worth a great deal! I quite anticipate encountering issues fitting the main deck. I've just dry fitted it just to see the extent of my problems, and wish I hadn't. One immedite problem encountered was one my bashed walls has pushed a beam / frame out too far. I'd better put that right before anything else. At first quick look there doesn't seem to be too much shiming up or down to do, rather a matter of the whole deck being a tad out of plumb i.e. something has twisted the keel (just a little).

 

But I'll refer back to your advice when I get there, I've still quite a lot still to do before I get there. While I take your advice re. things like the coal bin (I've divided mine, coal in one half, twigs in the other!), I won't be adding any other detail apart from the ballusters and chocks which I feel will be much easier done now than with the deck on.

[riverboat]

Nice work Bryan..... like your embellishments!!

 

Frank

[bryanc]

Maindeck fitted

 

The top deck was fitted last night after a lot of work "finishing" the companionways. "Finishing" in inverted commas because I'm not completely happy with them, (although now the upper deck is fixed, I'm more limited in what I can do with them). I originally had the actual steps complete with banister railings and balustrades, but just couldn't convince myself the actual ship would have bannister rails, but rather just rope, if anything. The actual decision was aided by the fact some of them weren't very good anyway, so off they came and "rope" has been used extensively both as "banisters" and hatch guard railings. Its the latter that may yet change back!

 

 

I was largely pleased with the deck until I dry fitted the masts and bilge pump pipes once again. The first time I did this, before the deck went on properly, all fitted well. Now less so; the bilge pump pipes fit all too well, dropping right through to the keel. But this isn't an issue, and can easily be remedied. Less so the Mizzen Mast. The fore and main masts are fine, but the mizzen mast has become slightly misaligned, and is just a tad off centre down on the lower deck (see the last photo). I think with a bit more sanding, and judicious use of lateral force on the far side of the mast, I can ease the mast into its anchor hole, but it’s disappointing when I went to the trouble of ensuring all was OK before fitting the deck proper. Hopefully it will not affect the trim of the masts in general.

 

 

 

The deck itself fitted relatively well, certainly on the starboard side, less well on the port side where two frames and associated (bashed) interior walls, are disappointingly proud, and will need some considerable work later. A couple of shims were required on the starboard side, to ensure there are no gaps between deck and ribs, which is to be expected really. The port side (definitely my worse side!) will require rather more I think.

 

Planking the main deck is the next big job.

Edited September 2, 2015 by bryanc

[thomaslambo]

Hi Bryan,

 

 

You're looking good in my book    

 

These short comings seem to be common place at this stage (I saw a build where the mizzen mast was notched to fit into the lower mast ring). 

 

A little persuasion of the wood and you'll be good to go.

 

I've spent hours aligning and modifying my main deck.  My frames have shifted a bit and will need shimming on one side and sanding on the other when I get around to fairing the frames. 

  

So far my mast alignment looks good, and the stern deck holes actually set the proper angle on the mizzen (tilted back a few degrees). 

 

Thanks for the heads up, I’ll pay close attention to the masts when I finely glue the main deck on 

  

I’m still holding off right now as I'm completing more kit bashing details down below...and as you noted, once you glue the main deck down it really restricts access to the lower areas.   

Edited September 2, 2015 by thomaslambo

[Captain Al]

Good Morning Bryan and welcome to the world of my masts don't go into their holes.  I don't know how extensively I covered this problem in my build log -- maybe not at all -- but I had the exact problem.  Masts were perfect when I dry fit the deck.  Then two of the three didn't hit the holes correctly.  Boyd may have just referenced my solution which was (in part) to take off a bit of the mast at the foot.  I also got down in there with a long round file and worked the hole.  Now I can also recall that my problem was not so much getting through the round holes of the lower deck, but actually fitting into the mast step itself.  These steps are rectangular and the mast is obviously round.  Before going down into them they had to be tennoned.  So the process of getting them to sit well was really just an extension or exaggeration of what had to be done anyway.  Once you create a rectangular shaped tenon at the mast foot you'll have to always orient the mast the same way -- ie there will be a front and back and port and starboard side to the mast.  My last comment on this is that I learned while doing it that one of the masts, I believe the mizzen, is supposed to have a slight rake to it.  I think its like 7 or 10 degrees.  In my case, just by sheer luck, that's about how well the mast sits after all the fiddling.  I think I spent around 20 hours on these adjustments.  Otherwise, I wanted to say that your interior looks great and the deck looks fine as well.  Oh, one more thing -- I had to enlarge the mast opening on the top deck to allow the mast to slide in at the right angle.  Not to worry; the rings (provided) are large enough to cover the slight gap.  At one point I considered really making these holes large and using shims around the mast.  This is actually the way it was done I believe.

[Captain Al]

Bryan, have you glued in your bilge tubes?  Reason I ask is this:  When you build your pumps you will place them over the tubes and you'll want a bit of tube protruding up above deck level; maybe a quarter inch.  I left enough so that the tube inserted pretty far into the pump.  This way the pump, though glued down, will never break off.   What this meant for my build is that the bottom of the tube does not actually sit on the mast step or frame as your's appears to, but sits with about 1/4 inch of space between it and the mast step.  Now I don't know for certain if I did it right, so this is only food for thought.  But part of my reasoning was that if the tubes actually sit on the floor boards, they would not be able to draw water, particularly if there was a lot of fouling gunk in the water.  As I said, food for thought.  If you're already glued in I would probably leave it as is and probably just glue the pumps in place over the flush top of the tubes. 

[bryanc]

 

Hi Bryan,

 

 

You're looking good in my book    

 

These short comings seem to be common place at this stage (I saw a build where the mizzen mast was notched to fit into the lower mast ring). 

 

A little persuasion of the wood and you'll be good to go.

 

I've spent hours aligning and modifying my main deck.  My frames have shifted a bit and will need shimming on one side and sanding on the other when I get around to fairing the frames. 

  

So far my mast alignment looks good, and the stern deck holes actually set the proper angle on the mizzen (tilted back a few degrees). 

 

Thanks for the heads up, I’ll pay close attention to the masts when I finely glue the main deck on 

  

I’m still holding off right now as I'm completing more kit bashing details down below...and as you noted, once you glue the main deck down it really restricts access to the lower areas.   

 

Hi Thomas,

 

Thanks again. It did occur to me to notch the bottom of the mizzen mast to help it fit, but as Captain Al says, the bottom of the masts have to be notched to fit into the mast step anyway, so I'll hold off. In fact I may do the notching on the masts quite soon anyway, then I'll be in a better position to see if the mizzen mast needs additional notching up one side, although I'm still hoping "a little persuasion" is all that is required.

 

I can well imagine you're not ready to glue the main deck down just yet. If I could "bash" as creatively as you, I'd still be working on the interior ;-)

 

Bryan

[bryanc]

Good Morning Bryan and welcome to the world of my masts don't go into their holes.  I don't know how extensively I covered this problem in my build log -- maybe not at all -- but I had the exact problem.  Masts were perfect when I dry fit the deck.  Then two of the three didn't hit the holes correctly.  Boyd may have just referenced my solution which was (in part) to take off a bit of the mast at the foot.  I also got down in there with a long round file and worked the hole.  Now I can also recall that my problem was not so much getting through the round holes of the lower deck, but actually fitting into the mast step itself.  These steps are rectangular and the mast is obviously round.  Before going down into them they had to be tennoned.  So the process of getting them to sit well was really just an extension or exaggeration of what had to be done anyway.  Once you create a rectangular shaped tenon at the mast foot you'll have to always orient the mast the same way -- ie there will be a front and back and port and starboard side to the mast.  My last comment on this is that I learned while doing it that one of the masts, I believe the mizzen, is supposed to have a slight rake to it.  I think its like 7 or 10 degrees.  In my case, just by sheer luck, that's about how well the mast sits after all the fiddling.  I think I spent around 20 hours on these adjustments.  Otherwise, I wanted to say that your interior looks great and the deck looks fine as well.  Oh, one more thing -- I had to enlarge the mast opening on the top deck to allow the mast to slide in at the right angle.  Not to worry; the rings (provided) are large enough to cover the slight gap.  At one point I considered really making these holes large and using shims around the mast.  This is actually the way it was done I believe.

Hi Al,

 

Thanks and yes, I think I've unintentionally come to the same conclusion; I'll work on the foot of each mast to ensure it fits into the applicable well, and while doing so can hopefully make the mizzen mast fit without too much heartache! I was unaware the mizzen in reality has a slight rake to it (I assume to the stern) and this is likely what will happen to mine - equally accidentally, as any work I do will be to the stern side of the mast, and in so doing is likely to encourage the "rake"!

 

Regarding the bilge pump tubes, no, they are not glued in yet, I was assuming they would have to be fitted into the bilge pump(s), (not that I've even looked at the pumps yet), and that simple act of gluing will dictate where the bottom of the tubes sit. When dry fitted the tubes actually rest on the rib that is immediately to the rear of the main mast step, with only a tiny amount clear of the deck (which will be even less when its planked). I imagine when they are glued to the actual pumps, they will be lifted that important few inches (or equivalent thereof) and will have enough clearance to adequately "suck up" the water and associated gunk from the bilges!

 

Bryan

Edited September 3, 2015 by bryanc

[UpstateNY]

Hi Bryan,

 

Been following along and love all the details you are putting in. Great work.

 

She looks like a really fun model to build!

 

Cheers,

 

Nigel.

[bryanc]

Hi Bryan,

 

Been following along and love all the details you are putting in. Great work.

 

She looks like a really fun model to build!

 

Cheers,

 

Nigel.

 

Thanks Nigel,

 

Glad you like my build, and while I'm not up to the same standard as others working on the same kit, I'm thoroughly enjoying myself and learning a lot :-) And yes, I love adding the detail (much more to come of course), so much so I've already decided my next build will be a cross section kit - lots more scope for adding detail and bashing additional bits:-)

 

(An edit is inserted here!). I just belatedly looked at your current builds, and was delighted to see your HMS Triton cross section! I've never come across this before, and assume its a scratch build? In that case infinite scope for bashing! Needless to say I'll be watching keenly, and only hope one day I'll feel confident enough to tackle such a build.

 

Thanks again,

 

Bryan

Edited September 3, 2015 by bryanc

[thomaslambo]

Brian,

 

I really appreciate your kind words.  

 

And I must say this model is no walk in the park...for me it's a very tough first build, and there's no way I could have handled it without this forum  

[maturin52]

I've been following your build with interest, as I've recently begun work on the same kit. I'm about a week in, and enjoying it so far. I'm not surprised at your observations regarding the instructions; this is my 3rd Artesania  Latina kit (HMS Bounty Jolly Boat and the  King of the Mississippi), and those kits were the same. I have learned with the Riverboat to rely heavily on these build logs. I'm looking forward to following along with your work, and I'll start my own build log, probably later on today. I do have one for my "King of the Mississippi, but I got really slack about posting photos, but at least I did post some shots of the completed model.

 

Mike McMullon, St. Charles, MO (username: maturin52)

Edited September 4, 2015 by maturin52

[bryanc]

I've been following your build with interest, as I've recently begun work on the same kit. I'm about a week in, and enjoying it so far. I'm not surprised at your observations regarding the instructions; this is my 3rd Artesania  Latina kit (HMS Bounty Jolly Boat and the  King of the Mississippi), and those kits were the same. I have learned with the Riverboat to rely heavily on these build logs. I'm looking forward to following along with your work, and I'll start my own build log, probably later on today. I do have one for my "King of the Mississippi, but I got really slack about posting photos, but at least I did post some shots of the completed model.

 

Mike McMullon, St. Charles, MO (username: maturin52)

 

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the interest, I've just looked and you have indeed started your log, made me quite wistful looking back to that stage, but its actually not that long ago! I like your "King" to, and how appropriate given where you live (what an evocative sounding place; St Charles, Missouri. More romantic sounding than than Buxton, Derbyshire anyway!).

Yes, after starting off so well the AL instructions have gone downhill fast. But the standard of the kit is still good - mostly!

Right, going to update my log now.

Bryan

[bryanc]

Onwards…

 

Moving on apace, at a speed which could be deemed worrying, but I’m not rushing, I’m taking my time and being careful (mostly!). The whole project has just grabbed me at the moment, the build is going well and everything is coming together very pleasingly; hence the rapid progress.

 

It won’t last!

 

Not that there haven’t been problems, but mostly of my own making. The AL instructions are really petering out after such a good start, and I’m tending to look at other users work and photos on the forum as much as the instructions, and that how you miss things! For instance I assumed the upper hull planking came together at the bow, with port and starboard planking coming together. Not so, a gap has to be left to accommodate the keel stem. Oh well, a bit of whittling with the scalpel sorted it.

 

 

I was also a little too keen with the fretsaw as I elected to shape the bow boards with that rather than patiently sand them down as might be considered more correct. They are covered by the gunwale before long though, and I hope my over-enthusiasm will also be covered up.

 

And plenty more problems to come given how hard the 2 x 5 walnut planking is; this is the majority of the hull planking material of course. I’ve just moved from the basswood upper hull planking to this lower hull planking. Walnut? More like teak! Given it has to be curved quite radically in places, and I elected to use pins rather than glue alone, it’s really proving hard work.

 

 

I would have preferred not to use the pins, but the build dictated it really. While inserting the pins, one has to pray the pin pusher will drive the pins right home, so you are not obliged to hammer them in, because they invariably make that horrible twang - and bend. So the planking is well and truly soaked before use, and does become a lot more malleable, but saturated of course!

 

 

But now the planking gets more involved and the whole procedure a little more taxing as the tapering and the stealers come into use. I’ve elected to keep to the plan and use just single planking. At this moment in time I’ve decided not to paint the hull, but use varnish only. But this is subject to change, as filler and paint can cover up a multitude of sins!

 

Bryan

[bryanc]

Hull planking finished, but...

 

The keel is now fully planked - apart from (a lot of) filling, sanding and painting (yes I've elected to paint it after all, little choice as there are many "ills" to try and cover or at least camouflage. Nothing heavy or garish though, I’ll keep to more simple “wood” colours).

 

I have always found planking the keel very taxing, and although I am improving, it’s not at the rate I’d like! I got off to a good enough start, but began to struggle when the going got more tough.

 

 

 

It’s a long sad story, but you may notice not two types of wood (the top rubbing strakes – the "orangey" ones - are of a much lighter material and will be painted much lighter), but three types. I had to do extensive removal and replacement, as I went along, and ran out of the supplied (walnut) wood, so ordered more, but it turned out to be a lighter walnut! The lower hull planking is the original supplied walnut, the lighter planking immediately above, the replacement. Be warned there is not a vast amount of the original supplied. This is one reason why I’ve elected to paint the hull; the difference in woods would be too obvious if I just left it clear varnished.

 

The observant may also notice my Dremel 7700 Cordless has been replaced by the infinitely more beefy Dremel 3000 Corded (sat in the plastic tray to the upper left). Oh how I wish I’d spent that little extra in the first place. The 7700 failed!

 

Right on to the filling and sanding!

 

Bryan

 

 

[rcmdrvr]

I am also building this model.  Just a few steps ahead of you.  I also chose to paint the model.  I tried to emulate the paint job on the Bounty replica which sunk in a storm a few years back.  I was not exact, but it came out OK.  You can see in my build log.

[Captain Al]

Bryan, as one who struggled for 4 months on this same planking, I know all the trials and tribulations you've gone through.  You should be commended for persisting in the task and getting it done.  Good job.  If I can chime in with a couple observations (lessons I learned along the way as well) perhaps you'll have an easier time with your next build. 

 

The first thing I notice from your pix is that your frames (particularly on the port side) do not appear to have had much fairing and beveling to match the curvature of the hull.  It may be only the photo illusion.  Without a lot of painstaking sanding of each frame to a proper angle, it would be hard if not impossible to get the planks to lay flat and there will be precious little gluing surface under each one.  The other issue I found to be so extremely important on mine is the tapering of each plank and the position of the garboard plank.  You may have waited too long to start tapering; I did and ended with a few unwanted pointy planks.

 

Overall looks good and like you said, ready for filling and lots of sanding with that 3000.  You'll soon be moving to more fun stuff, so hang in there and wear a face mask.

[bryanc]

I am also building this model.  Just a few steps ahead of you.  I also chose to paint the model.  I tried to emulate the paint job on the Bounty replica which sunk in a storm a few years back.  I was not exact, but it came out OK.  You can see in my build log.

 

Hi and thanks, you have been on my "Content I follow" list for some time, and are one of my "role modellers" to coin a phrase. You are certainly ahead of me, and in more ways than one. I've just saved quite a few of your photos of deck detail and "furniture", for inspiration, as I am nearly at that stage as you know. In doing so I came across photos of your version of the stern section planking, which I cannot even get my head around! You have gone about it in a different way surely? But effective, very effective.

Yes I do intend a paint job, but for now intend keeping to the "natural" wood look, although that as everything, is subject to change!

Thanks.

[bryanc]

Bryan, as one who struggled for 4 months on this same planking, I know all the trials and tribulations you've gone through.  You should be commended for persisting in the task and getting it done.  Good job.  If I can chime in with a couple observations (lessons I learned along the way as well) perhaps you'll have an easier time with your next build. 

 

The first thing I notice from your pix is that your frames (particularly on the port side) do not appear to have had much fairing and beveling to match the curvature of the hull.  It may be only the photo illusion.  Without a lot of painstaking sanding of each frame to a proper angle, it would be hard if not impossible to get the planks to lay flat and there will be precious little gluing surface under each one.  The other issue I found to be so extremely important on mine is the tapering of each plank and the position of the garboard plank.  You may have waited too long to start tapering; I did and ended with a few unwanted pointy planks.

 

Overall looks good and like you said, ready for filling and lots of sanding with that 3000.  You'll soon be moving to more fun stuff, so hang in there and wear a face mask.

 

Hi again Al,

 

Thanks for the observations. It’s reassuring to know you to have suffered the same trials and tribulations, as you are another I look to for inspiration, and yes, it’s taken some time and some drastic action to pull through; I daren't show photos of the stern section until I've fettled it considerably. From about frame 3 or 4 sternwards all the planking was cut and removed and only replaced after considerable grinding and sanding of far too prominent ribs and frames - I suspect it’s that heavy work the finished off my original Dremel!

 

And again you’re correct of course, I left it far too long before I started tapering the planks, and paid the price. In all honesty I was trying to follow the natural "lie" of the wood as I positioned planks, but I guess one has to help nature along a little!

 

But now, yes. The new Dremel has a baptism of fire and a lot of work to do!

 

Thanks,

 

Bryan

[Gentlegiant]

Hello all the Bounty builders , i follow all your build log. I foud full good idea in all the different build log for building mine.Last week i check the instructions and the parts , and i have a question about the single planking with the 2mm thick walnut .Watt do you think off double planking with two kind off strip more thin ?

[bryanc]

Hi Gentlegiant,

 

I'm glad and honoured (and surprised) you find my build log interesting enough to follow. Thank you. I would just caution you though, I am far from the most adept model builder currently working on this ship, and suggest you do look at the others also.

 

But regarding your question, single or double planking; I to was very surprised when I learnt the kit was only single planked, and I thought long and hard about this myself before deciding to stick with the plan. This was partly because of my relative inexperience, and anyway the supplied 2mm walnut is sound and strong enough in itself. If you do elect to go the single planking route be very frugal in your use, there's not an overabundance of it, and it is tough to work (I found soaking it for a few hours before use was enough though). While on the subject the 2mm basswood needs similarly careful working, as its all too happy to snap when bent around too tight a curve.

 

Thanks and good luck with the build.

 

Bryan

[Captain Al]

Lots of soaking gentlemen....get those basswood and walnut planks plenty saturated (I often had mine in the soaking tube for 12-18 hours) before attempting that long bow curve.  I never found that there was such a thing as oversoaking, so I figured the more the better.  There are plenty of other tips on bending here and elsewhere, but I'll just throw in one more that worked well for me.  Anchor one end of the plank with a clamp and work your way around to the other end of the plank (generally I had 3 planks for the length of the hull after the 3rd plank).  If, while making the bend, the wood seems a bit stiff and possibly might snap, put a little piece of terry cloth rag on it and hold a soldering iron over the rag or even on it.  It will immediately steam up and the wood will give in.  What I'm describing here is the first step in planking where I would take the wet wood and put it on the frames to dry.  If done well when they're dry, they'll maintain the shape you need to lay them down nicely with glue and minor clamping.

[Gentlegiant]

Captain AL , if i understand you use three planks for the lenght of the hull , this is interesting.

[bryanc]

Redeemed...

 

..to a degree! Well I think I've redeemed myself a little. After a lot of filling and sanding and sanding and filling she looks a little more seaworthy. Far from perfect obviously and too stained and "worked" to make do with a simple varnish, so it's a paint job. I've decided to go the whole hog and paint the hull black, which will then be varnished; inspired by LADon's wonderful work - and the ill-fated Bounty replica. (It won't be blue as well though Don!).

 

 

 

 

 

Right, a little more fine sanding then I reach for the paintbrush!

 

Bryan

 

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

Looking good after a very difficult job! Looking forward to see more updates.

Havagooday

Greg

[bryanc]

Quandry!

 

Just a quickie, because I'm in a quandry. I painted the lower hull black, which is fine - or will be with a second coat and some varnish. Then I did the "rubbing strakes" above yellow ochre for the nice contrast with the black, but... against the basswood planking above them they are dull and lifeless so a paint rethink is required.

 

Will it be more black with further yellow ochre trim, which I have seen somewhere (the John Player Special F1 racing car!?), or will it be the Bounty replica blue after all Don?!

 

 

Bryan

 

[rcmdrvr]

It is tough when the reality of a project does not meet your mind's vision.  You base is good so repainting a color scheme should not be too difficult.