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Posted

Hi Bob. I'm busy rigging cannon breech lines and waiting for blocks from Syren to rig the inhaul tackles. All the deck furniture is done and pinned. I'll probably add furniture as I place cannon. Question: I placed the rings for the breech lines on the bulkhead lower than and outside of the holes for the inhaul eye bolts. The plans show the breech lines higher than and inside the inhaul tackles. Is there some "authentic" rationale for the tack I've taken? Thanks

 

Ed

<p>EdatWycliffe

 

Current Build:

US Brig Syren

 

Prior Builds:

MS kit Phantom

MS kit Fair American

Posted

Bob, thanks for updating and sharing this log

 

I can well imagine that this masterly built model is one of your favorites, its beautiful from hull to Fitting out and rigging, I love this ship

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

Posted

Ed, I did it the way you are doing it. Either we're both right or both wrong. I've seen it done in different ways, but I'm confident that the way we're doing it is a "correct" way.

 

Thanks so much Nils. You are absolutely right that this was one of my favorite builds.

 

Bob

Posted

Bob, I just discovered your Fair American build log. This is one beautiful model! And your planking is absolutely superb! But what totally amazes me is your combination of highest quality and productivity. You must average at least one complex model per year! How can that be achieved? It takes me about 10 times that long!

 

Thomas

Current Built:   Model Shipways  Syren  (US Brig 1803)

 

Last Built:        Anfora (kit bashed)  Ictineo II  (1st steam powered submarine 1864)

 

Posted

Thanks so much Thomas for the kind words. One of the benefits of retirement is the time available to do what you like. I really like to build ship models and spend a whole lot of time at it. When you look at it that way, one to two years per model doesn't seem such a short time.

 

Bob

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Super post,superior craftsmanship,beautiful model.

What was to be a nightmare of rigging; has become clear and something to look forward to because of your photos.

Thanks for sharing.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have a question -  While I'm still working on the lower mast's standing rigging, I am researching the rigging for the topmasts.  The main topmast stay attaches to the main topmast with a mouse and the stay passes through a 1/4 inch block on the foremast.  It then is seized to a 'fiddle' block (which I call a sister block) halfway down the aft side of the lower foremast.  "A purchase is rove between a single-becket block on deck and the fiddle block, the hauling end being hitched to the deck block at its strap."  Do you know, or have a picture of, how that hitch is done exactly?

Ken

 

NO PIRACY 4 ME! (SUPPORTING CHUCKS' IDEA)

 

Current Build:  

Washington 1776 Galley

Completed Builds:

Pilot Boat Mary  (from Completed Gallery) (from MSW Build)

Continental Boat Providence   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Continental Ship Independence  (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Rattlesnake   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Armed Virginia Sloop  (from Completed Gallery)

Fair American (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build Log)

 

MemberShip Model Society of New Jersey

                  Nautical Research Guild

Posted

Ken, I'm afraid that I don't know exactly how that hitch should be done or have a picture of it. I can only tell you that I used a simple single hitch around the strop above the hook and secured it with a spot of glue.

 

Bob

Posted

Thanks Bob.  That makes sense, given the instructions.  It's just that I've never seen that kind of 'tying off' before.  So unless someone else comes up with a better idea, I will go with that.

Cheers.

Ken

 

NO PIRACY 4 ME! (SUPPORTING CHUCKS' IDEA)

 

Current Build:  

Washington 1776 Galley

Completed Builds:

Pilot Boat Mary  (from Completed Gallery) (from MSW Build)

Continental Boat Providence   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Continental Ship Independence  (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Rattlesnake   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Armed Virginia Sloop  (from Completed Gallery)

Fair American (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build Log)

 

MemberShip Model Society of New Jersey

                  Nautical Research Guild

Posted

Thanks for your insight.

Ken

 

NO PIRACY 4 ME! (SUPPORTING CHUCKS' IDEA)

 

Current Build:  

Washington 1776 Galley

Completed Builds:

Pilot Boat Mary  (from Completed Gallery) (from MSW Build)

Continental Boat Providence   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Continental Ship Independence  (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Rattlesnake   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Armed Virginia Sloop  (from Completed Gallery)

Fair American (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build Log)

 

MemberShip Model Society of New Jersey

                  Nautical Research Guild

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Hi Bob, hope that all is well in your shipyard. On the FA Instruction sheets, I notice that there are no lift blocks for the fore and aft yardarms on the lower masts. I'd like to add them as you did, but I can't figure out how you attached them to the mast caps. Are the blocks seized around the cap? If so, how is that done after the masts are installed? Or, are the lift blocks seized onto an eye in the bottom base of the mast cap? Thanks. Ed

<p>EdatWycliffe

 

Current Build:

US Brig Syren

 

Prior Builds:

MS kit Phantom

MS kit Fair American

Posted
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Hi Bob, quick question if I may: Did you initially rig both brace pendants and yard tackle pendants to the main and fore lower yardarms P & S? The FA instructions and rigging plan appear to call for them, but I didn't see them both rigged initially to the yardarms on your log. Was either the brace pendant or yard tackle pendant added later? Thanks much.

<p>EdatWycliffe

 

Current Build:

US Brig Syren

 

Prior Builds:

MS kit Phantom

MS kit Fair American

Posted
Posted

Just my two cents:  I am not doing tackle pendants either.  The main reason is the absence of 'tie off' points.

Cheers.

Ken

 

NO PIRACY 4 ME! (SUPPORTING CHUCKS' IDEA)

 

Current Build:  

Washington 1776 Galley

Completed Builds:

Pilot Boat Mary  (from Completed Gallery) (from MSW Build)

Continental Boat Providence   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Continental Ship Independence  (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Rattlesnake   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Armed Virginia Sloop  (from Completed Gallery)

Fair American (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build Log)

 

MemberShip Model Society of New Jersey

                  Nautical Research Guild

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