Enterprise by src - Constructo - 1:51 - or Lessons in Adapt Improvise and Overcome

[Rich_engr]

Sam- wow!  That's some gorgeous woodworking skills there!!!  I love the detail and extra touches- she's a very fine piece of art!  I can't wait to see her rigged!!!  

[src]

John and Rich thank you !!

 

Been slow here, that evil nasty four lettered word WORK has interfered with play time again, gonna be busy till the end of November it looks like. Which is good, just limits playtime.

 

 I have found time to make my entry steps. As of right now I have just done four between the wales. The spacing I used would put a fifth right on the joint of the two lower wales. I looked at a tighter spacing but it looked cramped to me.

 

 

Since I have already put several coats of oil on I didnt really trust  a simple butt joint, even scraping I was concerned that I wouldnt get a nice strong adhesion. I chose to mortice the steps into the hull. The instructions called for 1.5mm x 4mm planks but that left me nothing for a tenon so I dug up some of the scrap 2mm caprail material. 2mm looked really thick so I tapered the edge. That left me with a more narrow face and a reasonable tenon. It was also, to my eye at least, hinted at the shape in "Fully Framed".

 

I drew up a template on some address labels in a cad program I have here, I really miss AutoCad, Cadintosh is just a toy compared to ACad. But it was free, you get what you pay for I guess and once it was drawn up it really helped keep everything lined up and spaced properly. I could have drawn them up at work but it was Saturday and I was on a roll.

 

I managed to fit all the starboard steps in about an hour, the port steps took me more than 3 for some reason. They are done though. When I got down to the fourth step I realized I had a problem, the taper didnt work with the upper wale so I made a second set with a "More Different Kind of Taper'

 

Found another use for my true sander

 

A nice little taper to clean up the parts

 

Drew up a pattern in "Cadentosh"

 

Chopped some mortices

 

Oiled and glued in with a More Different Kind of taper on the lower step

 

Thats it for now. 

Sam

 

 

 

 

 

[russ]

Sam:

That looks good. The size and spacing look about right. Nice work.

 

One suggestion in these situations is to actually fasten the steps into the hull. This can be done by drilling holes in the back side of the steps and glueing in wood or bamboo pegs and then drilling holes in the hull to accept those pegs. I would use two pegs per step. You can use the pegs mounted into the steps to locate their holes in the hull before drilling.

 

Russ

[Shazmira]

Looks very nice and clean Sam, what Russ says is also a good way to add extra stability to the things attached to the hull. I took his advice using some brass rod, it really seemed to help.

[Sjors]

Nice work Sam,

 

I knew you can handle it 

 

[src]

Edwin, I missed you somehow, thanks for stopping by and the kind words, I've been enjoying the journey.

 

Sjors, Thank You! Dont tell the Foreman but I borrowed a couple of the Gnomes, hope you dont mind.

 

Russ, Robbyn, Thanks!! I had started out with brass pins in mind, then looked at my Fumbling Fat Fingers and thought to myself, "Self, you're never gonna get these steps lined up and spaced correctly this way." In my mind at least a mortice gave me some adjustability left and right.

 

Looking back at it, I could have used the cad program to do the layout and pin locations then used a straight edge to keep everything even. Ah well, this kept me busy for a few hours (days) and kept Captain Grumpy banished to the cornfield.

 

Sam

[Sjors]

No problem Sam,

 

I just finished the ratlines of the lower masts so they deserve a little bit time off.

When you are ready, you send them back?

 

[src]

Sjors, I dont think I could convince them to stay any longer then necessary! They kept saying something about "He who shall not be named will be angry" and ran off. They made it back ok I see.

 

My gudgeons started sweating and turning green I noticed. After some time in the metal working forum I cleaned them up and washed them in some baking soda and then some vinegar. got them all cleaned up and then painted them. The black is still a bit too black, I want to see if I can cut that and add a blue tinge to it on some scrap. If not I am more than happy to have them this way rather than sweating and corroding.

 

  

 

The sweating doesnt really show in the pictures, but it looked like little drops of water or glycerine

 

 

 

 

Gudgeons are painted, I plan to do some more tests on some scrap if I can cut the black a bit more then I will do everything that way otherwise I will match the pintles to the gudgeons and be done with it. I will miss the aged look on the rudder, but this is much better than corroded brass.

 

Next up is chain plates and then some quarter badges. The Byrnes table saw is looking really attractive, not sure I can justify the cost though. I have been hoping a job would turn up at work so I could use that as an excuse to buy one. No such luck yet. 

 

Sam

Edited September 30, 2013 by src

[Sjors]

Hi Sam,

 

The Gnomes are at the front door with the suitcases…..

They all come back?

Or do you keep a few spare…….

Nice gudgeons !

Looks great !

 

[Shazmira]

Sam personally I like the black, but I am always drawn to contrast that way. Your build, so do it the way YOU are happy with.

[src]

Sjors, Nope they should all be back, I know you need them with all your rigging and a second build to finish then starting another. Thanks!

 

Robbyn thanks. I do like how they turned out, I just liked the aged look for some reason. No matter what, this is better than corroded metal.

 

Now, I cant believe I am going to say this, but if work would just slow down a bit I could get some steady build time in. I find for how my mind works that 1 hour blocks of build time are not enough to get anything done. I just cant wrap my mind around what I have to do and then do it in an hour. The quater badges are looking very fiddley to me and I dont know if I want to jump on them when I cant devote the time I feel they need. Maybe i will start dinking with the cannons. we will see. 

[src]

Finished fixing the rudder. Glazing some blue didnt work on scrap so I just went with what I had. Much better than the corrosion! Now if I can figure out what happened in the first place. I am generally pleased with the end results although in hindsight there are things I would do differently on my next build. Things like separating the spectacle plate and the top hinge set. This was a good learning experience.  

 

The white lines on the edges are mostly reflections from my work lights, not unpainted areas. There are a couple of touchups need though.

 

I have started in in the chain plates. Over in the rigging forum I recieved quite an education learning about channel location and proper chain plate angles and styles. I learned that the chain plates provided with the kit are incorrect for the period. While the plates supplied would have made a perfectly respectable model, especially for a first build I have made so many deviations already a few more wont hurt. I decided to try to fabricate my own more correct chain plates. Its turning into an "adventure". Soldering these little buggers without demonstrating the effect of an open flame on wood is....... interesting. My first attempt created something very close to the briquettes in my BBQ, or perhaps the asparagus that fell through the grate the other night. My second and third attempt were better but still charing the wood so I made a little shield out of a broken exacto blade. That helped but if I get the shield too hot I still scorch the deadeye. I am using "extra easy" hard solder for my joints, it has a melting temp of 1250 degrees, maybe 1300 I need to look it up. If I drop down to a silver bearing plumbers solder - soft solder - I can get a really nice looking solder joint with some clean up. I am concerned that this joint wont hold up though, I have read a couple of horror stories about plates breaking a year or two after completion. 

 

This is my 3rd attempt still getting some charing

 

A little shield mght help

 

This is the same deadeye from above with a new piece soldered on using the shield this time, better but still charred.

 

Soldered with a low temp silver bearing plumbers solder. Much better but will it hold up?

 

Thoughts anybody?

 

Sam

Edited October 5, 2013 by src

[russ]

Sam:

Do not place the deadeye in the strop until after it has been soldered. The high temp solder is what you want to use as hard soldering will give you the best joint, but you want to make the strop and then insert the deadeye afterwards. The strop should be flexible enough to "spring" over the deadeye and into the groove on the deadeye, after which you can crimp it down as needed with some needle nose pliers.

 

Russ

[src]

Hey Russ, Thank you for the advice. Havent seen much of you lately, is all well? I found this posting in the metal working forum. It appeared to be a good combination of your advice and my skill level: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1724-deadeye-straps/#entry108284 Something more like one of the two below? I made a couple of rings with hard solder and then crimped them around the deadeyes. The one on the left I used soft solder to fill the void after crimping around an .020 rod, the one on the right has been left open.Both ways are MUCH easier than how I was trying to do things! Based on the drawing twintrow posted in the rigging forum I am leaning towards the left hand strop.

 

 

 

 

Sam

[russ]

Sam:

Just crimp the one on the right together just below the deadeye and it will be perfect. No need for the soft solder to fill that area.

 

I am fine, just VERY busy. later.

 

Russ

[src]

Russ, I know about busy. Thanks for taking the time to help.

Sam

[Sjors]

Hi Sam,

 

This is something that I have never done..

Soldering….

We don't have a soldering machine in the house.

Maybe something for the future?

But then I need a teacher that tells me how it works   

 

[pirateandy]

i'm in awe of your craftsmanship. this is beautiful work

[Shazmira]

Sam, when the time comes for the Syren chain plates, expect several PMs regarding exactly how you do this. I figure by then you will have mastered this art completely! Excellent work!!

[src]

Sjors, thanks! The soldering isnt difficult really. I am finding this is a bit more touchy than soldering brass and copper lamps together, getting that microscopic bit of solder to sit where you want it can be "fun."  I will happily loan you my soldering gnomes, just dont let them drink too much of that Belgian beer, they get..... excitable. I dont know what the conversion is but you should be able to get a small butane torch and some silver solder for about $50.00 USD.

 

Robbyn thank you, PM away! Always happy to pass on what others have taught me, although there is a tutorial in the metalworking forum that 'splains it quit well.  I am finding with these tiny parts its more a game of cleanup and getting the solder in place before even touching the torch. 

 

In addition to Russes guidance I used this resource   http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1724-deadeye-straps/#entry108284

Sam

 

EDIT - I should probably add in that I am usig wire solder rather than the pre fluxed paste that seems popular here. I ordered some yesterday, see if that doesnt make life a bit easier.

Edited October 6, 2013 by src

[Rich.F]

Hey Sam, Taking shap, Looking Good

[src]

Good to see you again Rich, Thanks. Got a new build ready?

 

Sam

[src]

Minor update. Soldered up a bunch of hoops l the last couple of nights. Hopefully I can get them filed and and cleaned up tonight and tomorrow. Will try blackening one on the deadeye before I do them all. I am not sure what the blacken it will do to the wood yet, then again I dont know if crimping them pre blackened will be an issue either. More 'sperimenting in my future I see.

 

 

 

Sam

Edited October 9, 2013 by src

[Shazmira]

Thanks for doing all this research and 'sperimenting in advance for me

[Rich.F]

HI Sam,

 

Yes, and the caldercraft Victory arriving by xmas:)

 

Rich

[src]

Robbyn, anytime!

 

Rich, nice! I'll be watching for it. BTW you commented elswere about being having been on Win 3.1 and that made you feel old. Maybe this will make you feel younger. I was a network manager in the late 80s on one of the early Novell Netware systems (2.x IIRC). Back in the days of the 286 when a math coprocessor was an entirely separate board and 1 megabyte of RAM was a lot.

 

 

Brian, hank you, butt jointed, never thought of scarfing them. Dont know how to answer your other question maybe someone with more knowledge can say? Now I am curious. They do look like the rings for the sails dont they.

 

Sam

[src]

I am continuing on with journey into chain plate manufacturing. I made the small plates that bolt to the hull, I have seen both double bolted plates and a single bolt on the last chain, not sure what is correct for this ship, I went with doubles.

 

I started by making a ring like I did for the strops, a number 23 bit was just about right. The first couple were soldered the same way I have been soldering, dab on a bit-O-flux, dig out the tiniest bit of solder from my 'drip experiment' from a few weeks ago, heat and start all over. Between solder bits falling off the brush used for placing it with to the flux sometimes knocking the solder right off as it boiled up, it was taking close to 10 minutes to make a joint! That doesnt include all the usual prep work of filling and bending to shape. I ordered some solder paste from Ottofrei.com, it came in on Thursday.

 

What was I thinking with the wire?!?!?! This is SOOOO much faster and easier. Make up 20 pc, put a microscopic dab of paste and do all 20 in like ten minutes!! Much faster and far less cleanup. I was generally pleased with my earlier joints but they were taking forever and placing the solder was trying my patience. 

 

After I had my rings I shaped them with a set of pliers I picked up a while ago at a Hobby Train store, they are made for pulling and placing railroad spikes, very similar to ring makers pliers but cheaper. They worked well for crimping the wire around a drill bit. Once I had my parts shaped I dabbed on some more solder and re-soldered everything, that was a mistake, TOO much solder. Start over. The second set is much cleaner.

 

​Some of my second set of plates

 

 

 

 

 

The tools I used to form them

 

 

 

Sometime back I read in one of the forums about using an ultrasonic cleaner for cleaning brass before blackening so I stopped by Harbor Freight and picked one up. I figured i could practice on my failures. Other than rinsing off the flux I just dropped them in and ran the unit for 5 three minute cycles with the optional cleaning powder. Soaked them in Muriatic Acid for about an hour agitating every 20 minutes or so. Neutralized them in a baking soda solution and rinsed in distilled water. I then soaked them in Blacken it for 10 minutes or so, I didnt time them just waited till they were nice and black. They came out surprisingly well considering I did minimal cleanup on them.

 

Also included were the two briquettes I made the other day to see what the acid and blackening solution would do to the deadeye. They discolored slightly but that may just be moisture, all told they were in various liquids for probably close to two hours. 

 

 

My first attempt as well as couple of failed deadeye strops. This is exactly how they came out of the c ultrasonic cleaner.

 

 

 

Fresh out of the blackening solution. The deadeye on the right is untreated for comparison

 

All in all a fairly productive weekend for me, now if the FA will stay out on her luncheon with girlfriends I just might get the chains made also.   

 

Sam

 

 

 

 

 

[Shazmira]

Those chainplates look great Sam, so when can I place an order for mine ? Did the blaacken it solution discolor the deadeyes, or the heat from the soldering iron? Is there any way to avoid that happening?

[src]

Robbyn, 

None of the solutions seem to have harmed the deadeyes. The black you see on the two on the left are from my torch. No matter how i set up the flame or shielded them they scorched. Russ pointed out that he solders and shapes his and then lips them over the deadeyes, presumably after blackening. I was trying to fit, shape and solder everything on the deadeye and was creating little lumps of pre-diamonds. Now that they have dried they are very close to the same color as the parts fresh out of the kit. 

As far as ordering, order away, but I need to direct you to my earlier post about a fireplace mantle started in high school.....

Sam

[src]

That four lettered word WORK has reared its ugly head again... I have had very little time to play in the last couple of weeks so building has slowed to a crawl. Finished manufacturing my chain plates and if my crews will leave me alone this morning I plan to blacken them today. I made a rough template out of card stock to determine the approximate location and rake, once the masts are in place and I can finalize their locations I will pin them in place. 

 

 

My rope came in a few days a ago from Chucks Syren company. Too lazy to go back over my posts but if I didnt mention it earlier he delivered several days before he promised them. I think I actually received them the day before he told me they  would ship! Thanks Chuck!!

 

Thursday night I tried tying on the rope to the stern gun ports, a knot looked horrible so I tried seizing them with 2 lb fishing leader, looks better than the knot but still not "right". Theoretically I will get over to a fabric store today and pick up some dark brown thread and see how that looks. I can see already I have complicated my life by not doing this on the bench before installing the transom. Oh well, live and learn!

 

 

 

Sam