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Posted

Jp,

 

I don't know the model, or how you fixed the yards on the mizzen mast but, apart from any jeers, parrels etc. which are probably shown on your plans (if you can see them) a good tip is to also put a metal pin through both yard and mast, which will hold the yard firmly in place. It should, of course, be invisible so drill a suitably sized hole half way though both. Glue and insert the pin in the mast first, then similarly attach the yard, making sure the latter is horizontal. I think you'll find this will make the attachment of the other rigging etc., much easier.

 

In passing perhaps another member here, building the same model, would be willing to copy his/her plans for you – but only if they are clear of course!

Kester

 

Current builds: Sherbourne (Caldercraft) scale – 1/64th;

 

Statsraad Lehmkuhl (half model) 1/8th" – 1'.

 

Victory Bow Section (Panart/Mantua) scale – 1/78th  (on hold).

 

Previous build: Bluenose ll (Billings) scale – 1/100th.

Posted (edited)

Jan,

 

Thanks, I had been looking for a diagram.

 

Jp,

 

As you can see from the diagram, the jeer blocks are attached to both the lower yard and the underside of the top and are a means of hoisting the former from the deck should they ever need to be lowered. They are normally kept in the hoisted position.

 

Each jeer consists of two blocks (a single and a double, the latter being fixed under the top). One end of the jeer rope is fastened near to the centre of the yard (I think with a timber hitch), which then runs through all the sheaves in the blocks and so to the deck. Here, it normally passes through a sheave in the bitts at the foot of the mast, and is then made fast to a timber head or a cleat.

 

You can probably see that there is also a parrel, holding the yard to the mast.

Edited by Stockholm tar

Kester

 

Current builds: Sherbourne (Caldercraft) scale – 1/64th;

 

Statsraad Lehmkuhl (half model) 1/8th" – 1'.

 

Victory Bow Section (Panart/Mantua) scale – 1/78th  (on hold).

 

Previous build: Bluenose ll (Billings) scale – 1/100th.

Posted

If your rigging is done properly, then there is no need (in my opinion of course) to 'pin' the yard to the mast.  The rigging will hold it in place just like it would on a real ship, and you can point that out to people who are interested, who will then be suitably impressed when you show them how it's done.

 

This also allows you to adjust the yards by using the rigging if they are not aligned exactly how you would like, and a pin arrangement would make this quite difficult.

 

Also, pinning requires (obviously) direct contact between the yard and the mast, and when a yard is hung from jeers, it should probably not actually be physically in contact with the mast.  If your yard is rigged using a parrel to a horse, then it's even more 'wrong' to have it in contact with the mast.

 

In the end though, use whichever method you like and works for you, chances are pretty good (like 99.99%) that nobody outside of this forum would ever be able to tell that it's not done the "right" way, regardless.

Posted

Hi Gunter,

 

I discovered in my own build (corel, prins willem scale 1:100) that dor the topgallants some cheating was necessary: the yards are not heavy enough to keep thme in their places without some help. For the main yards, everything just hangs fine by its own weight.

 

@jparsley: next time you should consider making your mastwoolings from rope, or a strip of paper when the original had iron woolings. These brass rings donotlook completely right..

 

Jan

Posted

Hi Gunter,

 

I discovered in my own build (corel, prins willem scale 1:100) that dor the topgallants some cheating was necessary: the yards are not heavy enough to keep thme in their places without some help. For the main yards, everything just hangs fine by its own weight.

 

Jan

 

I will take your word for that Jan - I built a Constructo 1:80 scale ship as my first build, but it was fore and aft rigged so no yards, and decided that I was never working in that tiny (or even tinier) scale ever again!  I'll give 1:64 a try, but plan to stay at that scale or larger forevermore!

 

Did your ship not have braces that would hold the yards in place after they were rigged?  I would not expect the weight of just the yards to hold them very well in pretty much any scale (other than 1:12 or something).

  • 3 years later...
Posted

On 1:100 and smaller scale, has anyone tried notching the yards a bit with a Dremel to fit the masts ?

Paul

 

Cutty Sark, Scientific Models (no build log)

18th Century Armed Longboat, Model Shipways

Civil War Coffee Wagon and Limber, Model Shipways side project

New Bedford Whaleboat, Model Shipways

Civil War Gatling Gun, Model Shipways side project

Posted

You need quite a notch to get a strong connection. So large that it is visible (at least it was in mine.) using a parrel and a drop of glue was enough for my yards

 

Jan

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