Sultana by Hopeful - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - Bashed Kit

[hopeful]

Hi Mates,

 

Post #1 of my Sultana Build

 

The Sultana is my second build and is in progress....not quite 50 percent completed. I Will repost my build log up to this point and continue posting as I continue building the vessel.

 

For the repost, I will provide photos and return and add some dialog later.  Each post will be numbered as well as each photo so future builders can communicate with me efficiently if they any questions as they build their own Sultana.

 

Please note I am building the vessel following MSW's directions as well as Chucks excellent tutorial. I jump around the instructions a bit when building. My recommendation is that you follow along using Chuck's practicum.

 

As Shortgrass indicated there were a number of Sultana builds that we builders could refer to when building our own Sultana's. Some of the builds were completed and others not. All of the builds were lost so it is important we get a few Sultana builds back on the forum. Hopefully other Sultana builders will repost their logs as well.

 

Photo 1

 

Box art

 

 

Photo 2

 

Solid hull

 

 

Photo 3

 

Wood build materials

 

 

Photo 4

 

Ships boat

 

 

Photo 5

 

Bits and pieces along with rigging cord

 

 

Photo 6

 

Flags

 

 

Photo 7

 

Hull templates

 

 

Photo 9

 

I created a note book for my Sultana build incorporating both the MSW plans and Chucks Practicum.

 

 

This replica show the beauty of the Sultana on the water.

 

 

The build begins. More later.......

 

BFN,

Hopeful aka David

[Pete38]

Hello Hopeful  David

It is great to see your Sultana back here in the build logs. I am going to follow your build again.  I plan on getting back to mine after my sidetrack to the darkerside

 

I may go ahead a repost what I have. It can show other people what not to do

 

Looking forward to build, you have always done such a great job.

[hopeful]

Hi Pete,

 

It nice to make contact with you again. Trust all is well with you and yours!

 

Thanks for looking in on the log. Please repost you Sultana build log.  Lots of good stuff in the log.

 

Stay well and happy building.

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

“ there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Midwest Sharpie Schooner (Status: Reposting the build log at present)

Current: MSW Sultana (Status: Reposting the log and keeping on with the build)

 

Next:   Amati Victory Lady Nelson

Edited March 22, 2013 by hopeful

[hopeful]

Hi Mates,

 

Post 2 of my Sultana repost

 

Post relates to removing bulwarks.

 

Photo 10

 

Bulwarks present

 

 

 

 

Photo 11

 

Tools used to remove bulwarks

 

 

Photo 12

 

Bulwarks removed.

 

 

Try not to alter the camber (curve fromn center to edges) when removing the bullwarks.

 

Next step is to true the length of the hull to the drawing dimensions.

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

“ there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Midwest Sharpie Schooner (Reposting the build log at present)

On the bench: MSW Sultana (Reposting the log and keeping on with the build)

 

Next: Amati Victory Lady Nelson

Edited March 22, 2013 by hopeful

[hopeful]

Hi mates,

 

Post 3 of my Sultana Build log.

 

Photo 13

 

Shot of The Sultana replica sailing on the Chesapeake Bay located in the north east part of the USA.

 

[hopeful]

Hi Mates,

 

Post 4 of my Sultana build.

 

Nest step is to make certain that the hull is the correct length per the drawings.

 

Photo 14

 

Hull termplates used to determine when the hull is the right length. Length is correct when the  number 4 hash marks overlap. My hull

was approximately 3/8 inch too long.

 

 

 

Photo 15

 

Removed mass at the bow until the template fit perfecty.

 

 

Photo 16

 

Photo 17

 

Removed mass at the stern of the vessel until the number 4 hashmarks overlapped.

 

 

Photo 18

 

Jig I made to remove mass at the stern wihile insuring the stern was square with the center line of the vessel. 

 

 

Photo 19

 

 

BFN.

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted on kit build log.

Current: Sultana (MSW) Reposting log and continuing on with the build)

Edited March 25, 2013 by hopeful

[hopeful]

Hi Mates,

 

Post 5 of my Sultana Build Log

 

Photo 20

 

BFN.

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted on kit build log.

Current: Sultana (MSW) Reposting log and continuing on with the build)

Edited March 25, 2013 by hopeful

[hopeful]

Hi Mates,

 

Lost another post due to time out, yikes!  Live and learn.

 

Post 5 of my Sultana build Log

 

Photo 21

 

Adding radius to the transom. The stern of the vessel is not flat,

 

Photo 22

 

Added strip of wood covered with sandpaper to remove material to follow the line of the radius without taking material away from the overall length of the vessel at the center line.

 

Photo 23

 

Moving the hull port to starboard until the transom is shaped properly.

 

 

Post 24

 

All is well!

 

More to come......

 

BFN.

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted on kit build log.

Current: Sultana (MSW) Reposting log and continuing on with the build)

Edited March 25, 2013 by hopeful

[hopeful]

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

“there is wisdom in many voices”

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted on kit build log.

Current: Sultana (MSW) Reposting log and continuing on with the build)

Hi All,

 

Post 6 of my Sultana Build Log

 

Was glad to see KIP (sawdust) post his Sultana. When I started my Sultana build, Kip was rigtht there to help me along. We have had and continue to have many conversations about boat builing in general and the Sultana in particuliar. My build is a combination of our ideas as well as Chucks practicum. How does it go, " no man is an island onto oneself". As well, I too have incorporated the ideas of other Sultana builders whoes fine work is lost to us. Trust some Sultana builders will repost their fine logs for others to see. 

 

Photo 25

 

Piece added to the stern from the keel to the bottom of the counter.Piece of wood is the same thicness as a deck plank. Part  will be shaped along with the hull. The counter will eventially be planked later.

 

 

Photo 26

 

Fairing the hull begins.

 

Before fairing, make sure the fore,  main,  mid, and poop decks are the right length per the deck drawing. This is very important to get right prior to fairing the hull. The directions in Chucks practicum are very clear about how to accomplish this task. Screwing this step up will cause you untold grief as you continue with the build. I know because I failed to get it right the first time and had to make adjustments.

 

 

Photo 27

 

Center lines. The outside two lines indicate the width of the keel. Material outside the two line will be removed during the fairing process. Note I faired the piece added to the stern at this point and prior to fairing the hull.

 

 

Photo 28

 

Station lines on hull.

 

 

Photo 29

 

Station lines on deck taken from the drawings.  Deck line should be indicated prior to adding those on the hull.

 

 

 

Photo 30

 

Station lines on the deck and hull match perfectly.

 

Photo 31

 

Added a block to the deck between station lines 4 & 5 in order to clamp the hull in a vise for the fairing operation.

 

 

Photo 32

 

Station templates.

 

 

I will go back and add more dialog,

 

BFN

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted on kit build log.

Current: Sultana (MSW) Reposting log and continuing on with the build)

 

Edited March 26, 2013 by hopeful

[russ]

Glad to see this build log back. This is a great little model and I am looking forward to seeing your progress.

 

Russ

[hopeful]

Thanks Russ.

 

There used to be about 8-10 Sultana builds on the forum. Some completed, the rest on the ways. Hopefully we will se a few more Sultana builds up on the new forum.

 

I'm intersted in getting this log back up to encourgage othesr to build the Sultana and to get myself moving on the build once again.

 

Will keep plodding along.

 

BFN

Cheers,

 

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted on kit build log.

Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build

 

Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Edited March 26, 2013 by hopeful

[hopeful]

Hi Mates,

 

Post 7 of my Sultana Bulid Log

 

Continuing along with my repost of the build.

 

Photo 33

 

Begin fairing the hull at station 4 and work forward to the bow.

 

This photo shows hull template 4.  Note there is a " CL" and a hash mark. The "CL" is on the top and bottom of the template. "CL" means centerline. When fairing the hull place the template at station four and place the "CL" hashmark over the centerline of the hull. The template must be level. I used a small bubble level to always make certain the templante was level each time it was against the hull.

 

When the template is against the hull and with the hashmark is not on the centerline matetrial must be removed.

 

 

Photo 34

 

 

Pencil marks indicate high spots. High spots develop when the template is not able to be placed on the centerline. Once the high spots are removed, the templates fit properly. 

 

 

 

Photo 35

 

Working to fair the stern by removing high spots.

 

 

Photo 36

 

Hull faired.

 

 

Photo 37

 

 

Photo 38

 

 

Photo 39

 

Completes fairing of the hull.

 

BFN

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted on kit build log.

Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build

 

Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Edited March 26, 2013 by hopeful

[hopeful]

Continuing on with the repost.......
 
Post 8 of my Sultana Build Log
 
Photo 39
 
The stern curves every so slightly into the hull. Using low tack tape is a techinque I use from time to time is to isolate the area I want to work on, or, protect or both. In this case I so not wish to sand the edge of the counter or thin out the keel.  The dark area is wood putty used to build up that particuliar area.
 

 
Photo 40

 

Jig made to aid drilling the fore and main mast holes. The jis rests an an angle consistent with the ships drawings. I used two-sides tsape to hold the jig in place. If you look carefull you can see the jig has a centerline shich was matach to the centerline on the deck. There are a lot of ways to drill a hole. This is the method I used. Go slow with the drill.......think 3/8" is deep enough!

 

 
Photo 41

 
Photo 42

 
Photo 43

 

My next step was to insure the deck had the correct camber, the radius of the deck from the centerline to the edge of the hull. I made this simple jig to help me get the camber right per the drawing.

 

 

Photo 44

 

When light is visible under the jig the that portion if the deck is low. Removed material until the camber was correct.

 

 

Photo 45

 

Noe the camber is correct on the foredeck.

 

 

Thanks for looking in on the build.

 

BFN

Cheers,

 

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted on kit build log.

Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build

 

Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Edited March 26, 2013 by hopeful

[russ]

That was nice work on the hull fairing and deck camber. 

 

Russ

[hopeful]

Hi Mates,

 

First, Thank you Russ for looking in on the build.I recall some adavice you gave me back when I was fairing the hull. The advice helped me to learn how to interpret the drawings and transfer the knowledge to fairing the hull, magic!  Thanks!

 

Post 9 of my Sultana Build Log

 

Chucks practicum calls for planking the hull begining at the top of the wales. Planking above the wales elevates the look and feel of the hull and, hence the model.

 

Photo 46

 

First step is define the top of the wale. I did so by taking measurements from the drawing to establish the top of the wales and pinned a plank to the hull at that position........the top of the wale is the top of the plank. Then I marked a line following the top side of the plank.The plank went just past the centerline of the bow. This step was repeated on  the port side of the vessel.

 

 

Photo 47

 

 

Photo 48

 

Indicates reference line on the hull at the top of the wales

 

 

Photo 49

 

 

Photo 50

 

Notice a very slight rise at the bow.

 

 

 

BFN

 

Cheers,

 

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted on kit build log.

Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build

 

Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Edited March 26, 2013 by hopeful

[hopeful]

Hi Mates,

 

Post 10 of my Sultana Build log

 

Photo 51

 

Next step is to make certain the distance from the centerline of the deck to the top edge of the hull conforms to the drawing. Simple matter of using a divider to take the dimensions from the deck drawing and match them to the deck. I took a measurements from the drawing every 1/2" the entire length of the deck.

 

Please note the mesaurement is wide just a tiny bit versus the drawing dimension. A little sanding needs to be done to fair the hull a bit more in that particuliar spot. It is always best to check the dimension over a distance of two-three inches to get a picture what is going on.  When the dimensions of the entire lenght of the deck, both starboard and port, are correct to the drawing dimentions, one can move on to the next step in the build.

 

 

Thanks for looking in on the build.

 

BFN

Cheers,

 

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted on kit build log.

Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build

 

Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Edited March 26, 2013 by hopeful

[hopeful]

Hi mates,

Post 11 of my Sultana Build Log

Task is to reduce the thickness of the hull above the wales by the thickness of one strake which is 1/16”-1.6mm. 

 

To make this task easier I made a simple jig by drilling a 1/16” diameter hole through a 1’ long piece of dowel rod. I put a slight radius on the out board end of the dowel. Then the dowel is slipped over the end of the drill with just 1/16”of the drill protruding from the end of the dowel.

 

To use the jig, drill into the hull until it reaches the dowel. Presto, you now have a 1/16’ deep hole in the hull. By placing a series of holes in the hull above the wales one can begin to sand to the bottom of the holes and the hull will be 1/16” deeper than the surface at the wales.

 

Photo 52

 

Photo 53

 

Photo 54

 

Photo 55

 

Photo 56

 

BFN

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted on kit build log.

Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build

 

Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Edited March 27, 2013 by hopeful

[hopeful]

Post 12 of my Sultana Build Log

 

Photo 57

 

Strake bending boards made of pine scrap. To make the bending boards I placed the hull deck down on the pine boards and ran a pencil around the edges and cut them out. Made two in order to bend twice the number of strakes at a time. Soaked the bass wood in hot water for 10 minutes then bent and clamped the strakes to fit the jig. I made sure the wood was clapmed 1" beyond the center line on the bending board.

 

 

Photo 58

 

 

Photo 59

 

 

BFN

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted on kit build log.

Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build

 

Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Edited March 27, 2013 by hopeful

[russ]

Good looking jig. This is the type of thing that will make a build so much more enjoyable.

 

Russ

[hopeful]

Hi Russ,

 

Thanks for looking in on the build. The bending board was a modification to one I saw in another Sultana Build log. Life was good using the jig. As you said, "makes the build much more enjoyable".

 

Hope you have time to work on your Biloxi Schooner. I really enjoy following your build logs.

 

Cheers,

 

Hopeful aka David

 

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

 

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted on kit build log.

 

Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build

 

 

Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

 

[hopeful]

Post 14 of my Sultana Build Log

 

At this point I am deviating from the practicum and following Kip’s idea of working on the deck prior to adding the strakes to the hull. This will allow easy access to the deck for adding the margin plank, etc., because the bulwarks will be added later.

 

Photo 60

 

When following the drawing to lay out the hatch positions I found the fore deck was to short versus the drawing. To fix the problem I added the later darker board you see at the stern end of the fore deck. Stupid mistake in reading the drawings way back when. I also had to redrill the fore mast hole.

 

Here is when I also drilled and cut out the location for the ladder. The blue tape indicates where the hatches will be placed.

 

 

Photo 61

 

Prior to removing the blue tape I painted the hatch locations black.

 

 

BFN

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted on kit build log.

Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build

 

Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Edited March 28, 2013 by hopeful

[sawdust]

 Hello David, pleased to see your excellent photographic record of your Sultana build. I will be invaluable to future Sultana builders.

 Thanks for sharing, Kip

[dgbot]

Yoy are doing a swell job..  One of the things I have done on a solid hull model is to cut in the notches for the stanchions before I fully plank the hull.  This way you will have a good sruface to plank the bulwarks and you do not have to fit every stanchion afterwards.

David B

[Chuck Seiler]

Hopeful David,

 

    Great work.  I get to see all the things I SHOULD have done when I started my build.

 

    I got the kit a few years ago and began by bashing it heavily.  So far the only thing I have used from the kit are the plans and quarterbadges.  <No offense Model Expo>.  I did not do a build log and it would be too hard to re-create at this point.  There was certainly a lot of soul searching on how to do this, that or the other thing.  I am not sure if it is worthwhile at this point to start a log just to show construction to date (stepping masts and rigging).

 

    I see you found pictures of the replica.  I was able to find a bunch of 'during construction' and 'underway detail' shots to help with deck details.  Since the plans for the model were derived from the NMM plans, which were also used to develop the plans for the replica, he model is REAL close to the replica (except no propeller....unless you want to add one).  One thing I found, for instance, is that all the deck planks are single planks....no butt joints...because they are all short enough not to need them.

 

    Anywho, I look forward to watching your progress.  At the rate I am going you may pass me.

[hopeful]

Response to the forum....

 

Kip: Thanks for checking in on my repost progress. Your finger prints all all over my Sultana. Feels and looks like a joint build! Thanks for you insight and encouragement, my friend.

 

DavidB:  Thanks for stopping by the build. Your comments about cuttiing in the notches for stanchions is a good idea and I will remember your advice in a future build. The Sultana build does not call for stanchions based on Chucks practicum.  Rather the hull planking above the wales form the outside of the bulwarks followed by inner planking.

 

ChuckS:  Appreciate your checking out my build. Glad to learn you are building a scratch model of the Sultana. Would urge you to start a build log. You can just start from where your are with the build. BTW what is the scale of your build?  Suggest you check out Chucks practicum of the Sultana, very informative.There is probably something there for you.

 

Bye guys & have a nice day.

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted on kit build log.

Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build

 

Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Edited March 28, 2013 by hopeful

[hopeful]

Hi Mates,

 

Post 15 of my Sultana Build Log

 

As it so happened…….

 

At this point Kip (Sawdust) noted it would be easier to cut the hole in the deck for the rudder post now, not later when the deck has been planked. It is fortunate that Kip’s build is at the rigging stage so I am able to benefit from his building experience to that point.

One thing leads to another….

 

First step was to make and pin a temporary stern post in place to facilitate drilling a pilot hole up through the counter and through the deck at the right location.

 

Photo 62

 

 

Photo 63

 

How to add lenght to a short drill.

 

 

Photo 64

 

 Glued with a touch of CA glue.

 

 

Photo 65

 

Be oh so careful here.

 

 

Photo 66

 

Sometimes we get lucky!

 

 

Photo 67

 

Rudder post through the deck opening. 

 

 

 

BFN

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted in kit build section of forum)

Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build)

 

Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Edited March 28, 2013 by hopeful

[hopeful]

Post 16 of my Sultana Build Log

 

For a bit of relief from deck work I went ahead and attached three strakes to the hull using a combination of PVA and CA glues.

 

I applied an inch of PVA followed by drop of CA repeating the use of CVA and CA the length of the strake. This method enables a quick bond of the strake to the hull. I always use CA strategically applying it carefully.  CA has its place. I strive to be very neat with glue to help create a clean build…..easier said than done!

 

The process went smoothly.

 

(Note the strakes look as if they are clinkered at the bow. Clinkering is when strakes overlap one another.  That is not the case here. The strakes bump out every so slightly at their low edge casting a shadow due to the compound curve of the hull. Light sanding will eliminate the high points in the strakes when the hull is faired above the wales.)

 

Photo 68

 

Photo 69

 

Will add the remainder of the strakes after planking the deck.

 

BFN      

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted in kit build section of forum

Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build

 

Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Edited March 28, 2013 by hopeful

[lamarvalley]

Hi David,

 

I've never made a solid hul before and honestly had no idea about how much prep it requires to make sure the blank is as it should be. Requires a discerning eye and good calipers it seems.

 

Randy

[hopeful]

Hi Randy,

 

Thanks for checking my build.

 

Some builders prefer solid hull to POF builds. Actually the hull templates do a good job of helping one get the hull right. No need for calipers. Fairing the hull is time comsuming but rewarding in the end. Lot and lots of sanding.

 

Good luck with you Sanfancisco II. your planking looked real good!

 

BFN

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted in kit build section of forum

Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build

 

Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

[hopeful]

Hi Mates,

 

Post 17 of my Sultana Build Log

 

As a diversion, I decided to do a few deck projects making the deck grates and the binnacle.

 

Photo 70

 

Beech wood grate material from Amati

 

 

Photo 71

 

Grates without frames

 

 

Photo 72

 

Grates with outer frames

 

 

Photo 73

 

Binnacle

 

 

BFN

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted in kit build section of forum

Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build

 

Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Edited March 28, 2013 by hopeful