Vasa by Jörgen - DeAgostini - 1:65

[Jörgen]

I agree with you "save money know because the ship is expensive" and just in a couple years you look on it and regret that you didn't bought the planking upgrade... It will be a upgrade. and about the "expensive kit" I think our hobby actually is quite cheap. I have a friend that build and fly jet RC planes.....and if you have a car, motorbike, boat etc., that is more expensive!

 

I don't think I will fill with balsa since some filler easily fix any problems on the first planking. And I use the first planking to learn:). On my Endeavour I actually overworked the first planking.

[Jörgen]

Hi all! 

 

It is some years ago i did the last upload here, 6 years.... But the build has never been cancelled. It has only been on hold because of other things in life. However, I feel that now is the time to take up the model ship building again. So here is a short update my Vasa just to show that I have started on the build again. The areas where the gun ports will have been sprayed with black color.

 

  

 

I have also already started to be annoyed on the fragile upper parts of the bulk heads that breaks all the time........

 

But I found the solution to prtect them with my childrens old wood toyes

And as you can see on the photos the planking has started!

 

This is all for now but at last I am on the way! 

 

 

Edited April 13, 2023 by Jörgen

[Hubac's Historian]

May I gently suggest, before the planking begins in earnest, that you take a little more time to fair the bulkheads.  It is evident, on your first plank, that there is a not insignificant mid-ships dip.  If you are double-planking, you could fill depressions after the base layer, but if you are only single-planking,  these depressions will be very evident, if the under-framing has not been faired.

Edited April 13, 2023 by Hubac's Historian

[Jörgen]

Thanks for the comment. You have right. I will take a extra look on this. I was little bit puzzled over this yesterday on how it will be. I have read somewhere that there might be a regression there, but I might be wrong.  This has also been an issue in the other build logs for this kit. Some of the bulk heads are very off on the same place. (See the Vasa log by Puckotred).

 

[BLACK VIKING]

Having built this ship the bulkheads are to narrow.  I built mine up with thin stripes on the edge and then faired the bulkheads 

Hope this helps 

Martyn 

[Jörgen]

Hi again.

 

The lines of the hull make me confused. If you look on the photos below there are a "straight" line in the hull in the middle were the ruler are. There are a very small decrease on the left side of my Vasa. But the question is. Will the hull be straight here or will it have a small curve? The last photo is from Billings Vasa and it is also straight here. Any inputs on this?

 

Edited April 13, 2023 by Jörgen

[72Nova]

Hi,

As previously mentioned those bulkheads should be reworked, at the very least that particular bulkhead needs to be built out to create a slight curve and eliminate that dip/flat spot, that should be an easy fix at this early stage. One of these days I'll get up enough nerve to tackle a wood model. Looking good so far👍

 

Michael D.

[Baker]

The hull of billings vasa would be quite correct.
do you have those plans?. Otherwise I can send them to you via pm.

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  The 'original' (1960s) Billings Vasa (their label - Wasa) had one bulkhead a bit too "fat", and I didn't appreciate the need for fairing it 'presuming' that it was that way on purpose.  Rule 1 - Never 'assume' anything about a kits contents or instructions.  Adding material to a bulkhead that doesn't come out far enough should be done as early as practical.

 

  I know about thin bulkhead pieces braking off at deck level, mostly because there is often just a central ply with a veneer on each face.  This makes the grain of the core the predominant grain subject to whatever weak direction it has.  There are hobby plywood made up of multiple layers that are better, as well as making up one's own 'plywood' of whatever species veneer available - then transferring the outlines using the stop bulkheads as patterns.  Strategy #2 is to cut out those spindly projections (leaving a notch in the side of the main part of the bulkhead), and gluing a solid piece of wood with favorable grain as a replacement.  The more advance precautions made early, the fewer problems later on.

[Jörgen]

Thank you all for the comments. I will try to replace all the visual plywood with real wood later. Also there will be a second layer of planking.

I have now reworked the second line of planks and i think this looks better. I will add material plank by plank since it looks like it is not the hole bulkhead that needs material. The second plank line are wet and is just pinned to the bulkhead to get the shape. I will glue them tomorrow and then remove and rework the first line of planking. What do you think, is it to much now or is it as it should be? 

 

 

 

Edited April 13, 2023 by Jörgen

[Jörgen]

2 hours ago, Baker said:

The hull of billings vasa would be quite correct.
do you have those plans?. Otherwise I can send them to you via pm.

Thank you very much for your offer Patrick but I already have the plans. 

[Hubac's Historian]

Your ruler test on the starboard side does, indeed, appear to be flush and straight.  The problem is more evident on the port side, from an overhead view, although the eye-test from fore-shortened perspective does indicate the starboard side has the same problem.  If it were me - I would remove any current plank strakes and pad the 1-2 problem bulkheads on each side.  I would then use something a little stiffer/thicker than the kit plank to fair the bulkheads down to where they need to be.  This seems easier to me, ultimately, than adding bulkhead material for each strake of planking.  When fairing, rely more strictly on the fore-shortened fore/aft, aft/fore perspectives to gauge how close your fairing is to where it needs to be.  Those are the perspective views that pick up those discrepancies on the finished model.  The human eye is amazingly sensitive to dips and hollows.

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  I made a 'fairing tool' by taking a hacksaw blade, grinding off the kerf of the teeth (and dulling the teeth as well), then using contact adhesive to glue sandpaper to both sides of the blade.  The blade can be gently 'flexed' to get it to deform into a curve, and then can be rubbed against bulkheads, planking (whatever) to get a nice even and gradual curved shaping.

[Hubac's Historian]

That sounds like a plan!

[Jörgen]

Hi again.

 

Hubac got me to take a step back and look more carefully on the framing and now am I little bit confused (see photos). Shall the planking following the framing or the false decks? If i follow the framing so must i fill upp many of them and if i follow the decks so must some of them be tapered quite much. Whatever I do so will it have big impact on the shape. There are no drawings in the kit and the instructions are not good in this case because it is hard to see how it looks like. 

 

 

 

 

[Hubac's Historian]

My apologies, Jorgen, but I am not understanding your question.

 

Generally, many POB builders fill the spaces between bulkheads (and below the lower gun deck) with pieces of balsa that they then fair to the bulkhead shapes.

 

This has the dual advantage of always providing a firm glue surface in these complicated areas of the underwater hull, where plank must taper at the ends, but it also makes it easier to gauge a fair hull before planking begins.

 

In the how-to section of MSW, you should be able to easily find Chuck Passaro’s  fool-proof method for lining out the hull.  His advice really helps clarify all of the potential pit-falls that stand in the way of a really nice result.

 

As a matter of fact, here it is:

 

 

[Jörgen]

I was probably little bit unclear in my question. The thing was that there were so many frames that was of in both directions (to small or too wide, you can see this on the photos how the frames are compare to the false deck) so it was very difficult to decide what the proper form actually were. However I have taken the decision to follow the form of the false decks and sand down frames that are to wide. This gives me a shape that is much closer to drawing from the Vasa 1 book that I have. These issues were most in the stern. The part were you told me to put more effort still needs to be filled up. I am working on that now.

It still confuse me that the frames were so off in such a new kit were cad and laser cut should make it simple to get it right. But I am probably to used to Eduard and Tamiya plastic kits were everything just fit

[Hubac's Historian]

Aaah, okay - now I understand.  This sounds like a good strategy at reconciliation.

[Baker]

17 hours ago, Hubac's Historian said:

Generally, many POB builders fill the spaces between bulkheads (and below the lower gun deck) with pieces of balsa that they then fair to the bulkhead shapes.

 

This has the dual advantage of always providing a firm glue surface in these complicated areas of the underwater hull, where plank must taper at the ends, but it also makes it easier to gauge a fair hull before planking begins.

Indeed. If you are unsure of the correct shape off the hull, then this is a good method to check this

(This is extra work but it pays off afterwards)

 

 

Edited April 18, 2023 by Baker

[Jörgen]

Hi again. A small update. The planking is on its way again and I thank you again Hubac for slowing me down so I could see and correct my mistakes. The lines of the hull looks better now. It is still not perfect but the rest will I fix with sanding and filler before the second planking layer.

 

  

[Hubac's Historian]

No problem, Jorgen.  It was a small thing, but it will make a big difference in the presentation of the model.  Planking looks good!