Smit Rotterdam by FrozenRabbit471 - Billing Boats - 1:75

[FrozenRabbit471]

2 hours ago, Steve 12345 said:

Hi frozenrabbit I caught your build yesterday I assume the progress from removing the kit from the car didn't happen in twenty four hours , is the log up to date now 

 

ps looks like a very nice kit will follow with interest 

Hey Steve, I was late coming to this group. I had already completed the frame and hull floor and just starting the planking. I am up to date. I wanted to be sure to post in chronological order.

[FrozenRabbit471]

1 hour ago, Tallshiptragic said:

Hi frozen, with the fiber glass resin I would suggest once the hull is sanded and smooth the give the outer hull a couple of light coats of resin first. Let dry properly and a light sand in between coats, this will make the hull nice a solid and then resin the inside of the hull. This is how I build my large RC ship hulls. Also when the hull is done and you lay the decks down again give these a coat of resin also especially at the joins with the hull. The resin will ensure better chance of the deck and hull not parting after years of use on the water as well as ensuring its waterproof. If you're patient you don't need to use cloth just a few light layers of resin. Below is a photo of my 1:72 Australian AWD HMAS Brisbane and my 1:72 Arleigh Burke class DDG in progress.

Hey tallshiptragic, The ship is beautiful. Damn fine job. What you've suggested is the way I will go. The inside seams have been wet finger glued with good wood glue. I hope that wont hinder the epoxy bonding.

[popeye the sailor]

the resin might not fill in the dips and valleys.   I've used filler on the one I did a resin job to,  and it worked out fine.   it might not be a bad idea to do the same with this one  

[Tallshiptragic]

I agree with Popeye and forgot to mention it myself. Use a good quality car bog on the outer hull before resin. Take your time and allow each bit to dry well and sand. You'll end up with a lovely smooth 'steel' hull

[Sjors]

Hi Terry,

 

I have a palm ( mouse) sander myself and to be honest, for me it's the 8 world wonder!

I use it when ever i can.

When you take a look at my build log from the Santisima Trinidad you will see the results when you see the decks.

Because the planks has not the same thickness it needs a lot of sanding.

With that mouse it's just a piece of cake.

 

Sjors

[FrozenRabbit471]

thanks a bunch guys. to be honest to the 3 of you, i intended to resin the inside first and maybe dab on strips of cloth.

Regarding the horrible outside, I was going to give it a rough sand, use filler, rinse and repeat. 

Im going to pick up a mini plam sander. If I had ended up with a perfect hull I would not have bothered, but I think it may save my hands.

 

On another note, I have posted these pics and texts to several other groups and forums. I can honsestly say, this group and NRG are amazing. The support is top shelf. I opened one of my  facebook threads in a boat building group this morning. An experienced builder had told me I was rushing and that's not what model boat building was all about. He said I should be buying #ready-made-boats / rc boats. 

 

I was heartbroken, crushed, woundedm choked......... for about 11 seconds.  

[KeithAug]

Hello Frozen Rabbit

 

Smit Rotterdam was my first kit model so I read your post with interest. My build was completed about 30 years ago and like others I see many differences between the hull that   I built and the kit you are building. The vast majority of my hull was planked in strip wood no wider than 5/16 inch. It seems to me that what you are having to deal with is a much more difficult construction method, presumably "value engineering" on steroids. Good luck.

 

 

 

[FrozenRabbit471]

Hey Keith. Thanks for the much needed tips. The tips, tricks and critiquing I get on this and one other ship build forum are like gold dust to me. Though 90% of it being too late, is created a well fitted dry-dock for a future build. I plan on studying all my threads before the next build.

 

This of course is not to say I still cant use the advice on some current applications. By the way, I hope you don't send me to the gallows, your pics are stunningly crisp and bright. I have saved them in my "Rotterdam Build" file on my table, so I can refer to it to get that mental picture. The pic on the box must have been taken in 1973. Gross!

 

Thanks Keith

[FrozenRabbit471]

That cloth and resin is messy $#!+ I dont care how experienced you are. 🙃

[KeithAug]

Hi

 

if you need any more hints or photos please ask. I didn't take any photos of my build as it was pre internet and in the days of film cameras. However as the model is still on the shelf more photos are easy to take. I hope you enjoy the build, take you time the fun is in the journey.

By the way I used car (epoxy) body filler to fill the low points in my planking and sanded it out using a cork sanding block. It's fairly easy as long as you take care and use long steady strokes along the line of the hull. 

[FrozenRabbit471]

thanks keith!

[popeye the sailor]

don't listen to those guys.......they're just jealous!   

[FrozenRabbit471]

I know I could have epoxyed this compartment  way back in the beginning of the build, but inexperience is at fault. Now I'll know for next time.
Any advise on how the heck to fully coat this compartment now?

[Tallshiptragic]

Pour some resin into the space below that flat piece to coat or fill if needed. Is that for the rudder or prop nozzle supports?

[FrozenRabbit471]

 

Sjorseye and Passer, thank you very much for dropping by my warf!

 

I agree I have alot of sanding to do. I think I'll pick up a mini mouse or palm sander and sand it gently with that, then obviously by hand after filling some valleys. Before I start all that I intend to epoxy the inner hull with strips of glass cloth as best I can. 

 

The deck is only lightly tacked on and will be taken off tomorrow morning after the last few hull planks are dry.

 

All your input is genuinely appreciated. Stick around. Lots of fun left yet.

[FrozenRabbit471]

1 hour ago, Tallshiptragic said:

Pour some resin into the space below that flat piece to coat or fill if needed. Is that for the rudder or prop nozzle supports?

yes it's the rudder compartment. I can just pour some resin in there and swish it around.

[FrozenRabbit471]

Well fellas, the inner epoxy and glass cloth application is not elegant that's for sure. But, It's done.

When it's all dry and fully hardened I'll cut off the excess and i guess thats it for the inside for now.

Unless you all have anything to add?

While I'm waiting for the RC components to show up, I'll start in on  the outside.

 

Terry

[cog]

MAybe for a next time. I put only epoxy on the inside. To much of a hassel to use the fibers, besides used that on the outside

[popeye the sailor]

looks good Terry.   If I had been here earlier,  I might have suggested a 1/2 inch brush,  or what ever would work.

[FrozenRabbit471]

Got it all done now Carl. Nothing wrong with a bit of extra stength. You're right though, it was a pain in the ♤$$. 

Popeye, thats what i used to dab it all on. 1/2" Brush. 4 of them cheap ones.  All worked out. No worse for ware.

[Tallshiptragic]

This is a perfect time to finish the outer hull. If you can avoid fitting the decks, get the hull finished so when you add the RC gear you can also ballast the ship, I use lead sheet and ball bearings (in bags) to get the model to the waterline. With the open hull it's the best time to be able to get to all the areas. Once you have the correct trim with your ballast those can be epoxied into the floors of the hull also. Keep in mind the batteries the large 12v or 6v kind are quite heavy so will make up the most of your ballast.

[FrozenRabbit471]

2 hours ago, Tallshiptragic said:

This is a perfect time to finish the outer hull. If you can avoid fitting the decks, get the hull finished so when you add the RC gear you can also ballast the ship, I use lead sheet and ball bearings (in bags) to get the model to the waterline. With the open hull it's the best time to be able to get to all the areas. Once you have the correct trim with your ballast those can be epoxied into the floors of the hull also. Keep in mind the batteries the large 12v or 6v kind are quite heavy so will make up the most of your ballast.

Anton, I have to order a few more RC components next week. Could a guy start the superstructure in the meantime or would you advise against it?

[amateur]

You're well under way, but is it OK if I take a seat on the back row?

Rotterdam was my second major build in my younger years.

Still on top of the cupboard, but totally covered in dust......

billings did a major redesign, and although I see the advantage for the decks (and presumably the windows in the upper parts), it doesn't look like an improvement for the hull. palnking in narrow strips was rather easy. Actually, never had an easier planking job..... (but as it was only my second, it toom a lot of filler anyway, not in the least to get rid of the woodstructure in those upper hull part, which was certainly not made of close grained plywood  )

 

Jan

[Tallshiptragic]

 

2 hours ago, FrozenRabbit471 said:

Anton, I have to order a few more RC components next week. Could a guy start the superstructure in the meantime or would you advise against it?

Absolutely. I believe most of the parts to be laser cut so the fit won't be an issue with the decks at all. Usually when I build my RC boats for the same reason as you I have to wait for motors, running gear etc so in that time I build up the superstructure.  Keeps you building while waiting for other parts to arrive

[FrozenRabbit471]

Well, to that note, ill start on the superstructure. thanks aton and jan

[FrozenRabbit471]

Question guys, the acetate indicated  here, is it merely used as a test fit sheet? A couple guys suggested thick paper. This  would allow the superstructure to go on and come off the boat easily. 
In the diagram, it shows a a pretty big piece, that eventually disappears in further diagrams.
Just a wee stumped.

[amateur]

It is positioned where the supersteucture sits loose on the hull.

This whole thing is build up insitu. I guess the acetate is there to revent glue entering the gap between the hull and the superstructure, and so making the inner. Hull inacesible. Once the whole supersturcture is build up, and theglue is dry, there is no needfor a 'separator' any more.

 

jan

[Tallshiptragic]

Just as Jan described. It's to stop glue fixing the structure to the deck during the build as this is the piece that comes off for access to the hull. 

[popeye the sailor]

you could likely get away with simply using tape around the opening.   if there is a lip there {and it appears there is},  you could use something thinner {like scotch tape} for a tighter fit.

[FrozenRabbit471]

Popeye, Anton and Jan, 

 

Thanks guys. You're all correct. I decided to use parchment paper, as thats what I've been using atop my wooden slab. It helps move everything around easy, also easy to sweep dust and wood off and great resister of glue.

 

So today, while waiting to collect more information accross all the forums and groups regarding what filler to use, I started on the 3rd deck cabins. 😁