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V108 Torpedo Boat by glennreader - Digital Navy - 1/200 - Card

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I am starting a second build. Normally I do not like to do this, but as they are different media I think this will work. This is because I have some spare time when, for various reasons, I cannot work on wooden models but would still be able to do something that does not make too much mess like a card model. I have made some simple paper/card models before and quite enjoyed it and the increase in card model builds here has piqued my interest.


Also I am also wondering if I can make this model for totally zero further outlay. Do I already have absolutely everything I need around the house to make this? I will give it a go.

The tutorial produced by Chris will be my guide. Though I will probably deviate in places (who doesn’t), sometimes because I might want to do something different, sometimes just to keep to my criteria of only using stuff I already have.

First job was to print the sheets on both paper and card stock. I had downloaded them some time ago. So in response to Chris’s posting on Jan 5th 2017 stating that this has been downloaded over 140 times and asking where all the build logs are. Here is one of them, I had downloaded this before then. Have I really been thinking about doing this for over 2 years.

I then separated the parts that need laminating from the paper copies and stuck them to some 1mm card I had lying around. This is the stuff used for borders in picture framing which I have large supplies of in many colours and thicknesses, 1mm is the thinnest I have.


I have got some spray contact adhesive, but I laminated these using slightly diluted PVA, to see how it would work. I brushed this onto the card, to create an even layer then positioned the parts that needed laminating, then used a wallpaper roller to squeeze out any excess glue. When dry these were very securely attached, so I proceeded to cutting them out. This is when I found out why laser cut framing is so preferred by experienced card modellers. After 2 pieces I would have thrown my criteria to only use bits I already had to the wind if laser cut framing had been available.

We now skip the next 3 days




while I laboriously cut out the rest of the framing


and I still have the laminated deck pieces to go. There are some scrap pieces in the picture to help joining the longer parts. For some reason I did no work on the Scottish Maid in this period. So much for this not slowing that build down.


I have done the bits for below the waterline as well. I may do this, but it appears to me that I do not have to make a decision yet. I think I would like to, so I get some practice at skinning the bottom.


That is where I am. The next job is to clean up some of the slots where the fit is a bit tight. I will be back once I have done that and started gluing.


Still not sure about attempting two builds at the same time.






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Glad to see you making an attempt at this! I won't complain about your "deviating" from the tutorial -- I never make any claims to know the "only" (or even the "best") way to do this stuff. If anyone can make such a claim, it's probably either Danny or Doris.


Keep up the good work!

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Before I continue with the build here is a picture of the tools I have used so far. Not shown is the illuminated magnifier, which I use instead of the one shown here when I need more light. I Can do this sitting downstairs with the wife.


For the thin cutting I use the scalpel no. 11 blade, but for the laminated stuff the one with the 10A blade. I find the bit of extra stiffness makes it a bit steadier. The pot contains diluted PVA and the bottle with a needle on the top normal PVA. I find I am using the 6” ruler a lot more than the 12” one.


First was to fit all the hull formers above part 9. This caused the part to curl up a bit. This was counter acted when the main deck, part 12 was fitted. Note the weights. I used normal PVA for this.



I then cut out the parts required to skin this. Thanks to Chris for pointing out the centre marks at the rear of part 12a and the centre of part 15. I would not have noticed them otherwise. The most difficult part of this was cutting out those concave bits that go at the rear of the forecastle. I did this by nibbling away with the point of the No. 11 blade.


In case anyone is interested the card I am using is about 1/3mm thick.


To facilitate skinning the hull I doubled the 3b bulkhead to give more surface where part 15 joins parts 14. Still got to sand this.


Now my first mistake. In my haste to start skinning the hull I put on part 15 before adding the rubbing strakes, which I then had to apply to this part in situ. It was not too hard, I held a 6” ruler flat against the deck and applied diluted PVA lightly to the first inch of the rubbing strake. I then put this in place pushing it up against the ruler. Once dry I added glue to the rest pushing it into place as I did so. I would say the second side looks a lot better than the first.


After trying to apply a felt tip to the edges of these, whenever possible I now colour the edges of very narrow pieces before cutting them out.


I then applied the rubbing strakes to the first of the two parts 14, I need to fit the second.


Once I have done this I need to add the frames for the forecastle before I add these two pieces.


I like to think I am improving. I am getting to know how much glue to apply and getting better at cutting out the pieces. Though concave curves still get me. I can see how really small ones can be done with a punch, which I do not have. But the only way I can see to do those with a larger radius is freehand



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Back with another update.


I have now skinned the upper hull, which all went smoothly. If I was to do this again I would make 1 change. Either I would replace the two pieces of rubbing strake on each side with one single piece, or I would put the longer piece at the rear so that the join in the rubbing strake did not coincide with the join in the hull skins. I think it would just make the join a little less obvious.



I then did the forecastle, which did not come out as well as I would have liked. The problem was as I was gluing part 13a into place I pushed one of the sides in a bit, which I did not notice at the time. This upset the angle and position on the opposite side, also not noticed. When I had let the glue dry and came to review this it all became apparent.


My thoughts at this time were along the lines of, this was for learning lessons and I have just learnt a lesson. If I was to do this again I would add an additional frame half way between frame 8c and the bow, which would prevent this and give it more rigidity.


I then added the support and part 13b to finish off the forecastle. I used a short length of 0.5mm plastic tube for the support instead of wire. Saved from my AFV modelling days many decades ago.


At this point in Chris’s guide we add the propeller guards and the rudder. I will leave these till later, if for no other reason than they look too easy to damage.


So far I have been making parts 23 and 24. I have also been cutting out parts 25-30 and the smaller parts to detail these.


Since Chris wrote his build instructions part 24b has been corrected. However there is still nothing to form the back of the tall bit of part 23. What I did was cut the tabs from part 23b and stick a bit of card over the full width of the back. Having previously checked that this would not affect the positioning of part 24.


When I fitted part 23b to part 23a the ends did not meet at the rear of the structure. I think this is due to my card being a little too thick. I have clued a strip inside this and will cut another narrow strip to fill this gap and then paint it. As you can see I have not yet painted any of the edges on this. I am waiting until I can do as much as possible at the same time.



I had a similar problem with piece 24b that wraps round the front of part 24a (miss numbered 27d), Again the ends would not have quite met. Though this time I was ready and trimmed the tab so the ends just butted up leaving a little strip to be painted. I also reinforced this with a strip behind. The close ups I took of this were too blurred to be of any use, though this is shown somewhat in the following pictures of the superstructure so far.






One question about part 24c (shown below) if anyone knows.


There are these little dashes to either side and in the middle. Does this mean these parts should be scored and folded along that line (to make an angle girder)?


I also think they have missed an opportunity with these parts. I can see 8 plates and 11 girders which could all be individual bits. Then there are those hex nut and bolt heads to cut out😀



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  • 4 weeks later...

Chris, thanks for the encouragement. When I get there I certainly intend giving angle girders a go.


It’s been sometime since I last got around to updating my logs. I have been making steady progress, 2 steps forward, 1 step backwards.


I have been steadily working on the bridge assembly. It takes a long time to cut out all the small parts


For the port and starboard lights I cut them out slightly longer, about double the length and then rolled them round the thinnest needle I could find.


I was not too happy with the way cutting out the windows turned out and after I glued the piece in place I accidently squashed the top slightly and had to try and straighten it out. I also glued a bit of scrap across the underside of the roof to help when fitting the radio room.


So about a week ago I had got to the point where this was all assembled. As I had some spare time I put it aside to do some work on the Scottish maid. When I came back it looked like I had sat on it. Do not know what had happened, no one else to blame. The front piece with the windows cut out, that I had squashed before was now in a very sorry state and the radio room had come away from the floor.


At this point I decided that the front piece needed replacing, but I could just stick the rest back together. As I still had this piece on the thicker (0.33mm) card I originally printed I cut that out and used that. It cut out much better than the thinner card and the extra stiffness was a real bonus with the very thin frames.


It looks a bit rough on top in the following pictures, may try using some filler. I still have the two side pieces to glue in place and then work out what I am going to do about the railings. I have downloaded the suggested template, but I might make my own template for this bit using the printed ones as a guide. There is a bit of scrap wood visible in this picture that I did not notice until I had downloaded them.



I can see in this last picture that I have also squashed the red tube I made for the port light, must be more careful in future. Also my scoring and folding of small pieces in thick card is not very good, they spring back too much. Next bits I intend making are the skylights, instead of scoring and bending the side pieces I will cut the parts off and glue them together.


I think I am getting a bit untidy in what I am doing here, as shown in the pictures. The trouble being that I cannot see any of this until I view the pictures. Using the illuminated magnifier I normally use during building I cannot see these issues. Especially the brown paint which is otherwise indistinguishable but stands out in the pictures. Once or twice I have felt like I want to start again, but I then think I am better seeing it through and then attempting something else of a similar nature.




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  • 2 weeks later...

Chris, I know what you are saying is true, but they still make me feel I should be able to do a better job.


Catching up on progress. There has been some delay as my illuminated magnifier failed and I had to purchase a new one. The old one was the type with a circular fluorescent tube around the lens. The new one has LED’s around the lens and can be powered from a USB output, like a phone external power pack. With the fact that it has a clip that opens to just over 2 inches makes it much more versatile than the old one.


I made the skylights. Instead of scoring and bending the sides I cut them off and then glued them in place. First I scored the centre line then glued the top to the ends.


I ensured these were flush by positioning the end piece, then standing it on its end and gently pushing the end piece down with tweezers.


Then added the side pieces. Next will add the cut out pieces on top to give it some depth. Will touch these up with paint once they are dry.


I added some steps to the side of the radio room. They are about 2mm wide and about 1mm proud of the surface. Learnt a few things here.

  • Should have drilled the holes before assembly. Had to push quite hard to drill the holes which buckled the side a bit. Tried a sharp needle, but that did not work.
  • Should have backed where the holes were drilled with 1mm card to help retain the steps as I pushed them in.

Hopefully the ones on the funnels will go more smoothly.


Since I took the picture above I have touched up the edges with paint.


A couple of shots showing overall progress of the superstructure.


I have fitted the bridge and made the supporting struts from 0.5mm plastic rod. Obviously these still need to be painted.


Next to do are the supports for the wings of the bridge. Finally get round to those angle girders.


Then the two funnels and part 44. There is just one problem with part 44, I have lost all the pieces bar one. Will have a good search and then if I cannot find them I will have to print some more. Annoying, though they are not the first parts I have lost, they are the first parts where I do not have alternatives printed on suitable material.



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First thanks to everyone for looking in and to those who have clicked on the like button.


I now move onto the bridge wing supports


I made the first one of these and then thought I should document the process while making the second. I think because of this the second did not turn out as well as the first, I was too concerned with taking pictures. It looks damaged in a couple of places but this does not show without the enlargement.


As mentioned a few posts ago these parts are marked as if the edges should be scored and folded to make them into angle girders. Given the dimensions this is something that looks to me to be impossible. Though I was thinking it might be possible to leave  more card on, then fold them and then cut the excess off.


So instead of making the two end bits into angle girders by scoring and folding, I will cut the side pieces off and then glue them back on at 90 degrees. This shows the first one done and the second prepared by cutting off the ends.


Another view showing of the first one, showing the end pieces glued in place at right angles. Unfortunately the image is suffering from barrel distortion.


After cutting off I apply glue and position the end piece. Then squeeze between two rulers to make sure it makes a good contact. After this I put the ruler on top of the end piece and pressed down to make sure it was flush with the end of the main piece.


Then just to make sure I turned it round and repeated the process.


Giving a good push with the second ruler to ensure the end piece is flush. Since I took these pictures I have got out my set of miniature, 1.5mm chisels and used them to clean up some of those bits hanging off, that I did not notice until viewing the pictures.


I then repeated this with the other edge. For the final stage the ruler was too wide, so I used a piece of brass strip instead. Sorry this picture is a bit fuzzy.


I still need to paint all the edges and the rear where the white card shows. I will also glue in short lengths of brass rod at the bottom protruding over the ends to make location pins as suggested by Chris.


Also here isa picture and an image I dug up that I thought might be of interest.





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  • 1 month later...

It has been sometime since I have had any time for hobbies. The sun came out and I was detailed for garden duties. However the weather has turned again and some spare time materialised. Not enough to do some work on the Scottish Maid but enough to set up a cutting mat on the dining room table.

The first job was to finish cutting out and making the funnels. One came out slightly large and I had to leave a bit of excess on that conical bit at the bottom to make it stretch round. The main new technique here was rolling the funnels themselves. Using Chris’s tip of slightly damping the inside proved invaluable, but it did cause some problems with the card coming apart in layers. A very fine dividing line between the right amount of water and too much. Still I was quite happy with the results.

Then came that large vent thing between. My first attempt was a bit of a flop, trying to glue the individual bits together. At one point I tried holding them together with Tamiya masking tape while the glue set, but that was a disaster. I discarded this and decided to try thinner material, as I had that printed out. This proved to be much too thin to glue edge to edge and that was also discarded. Finally I went back to my original very thick card pieces, which although they proved too thick for really sharp bends proved ideal for making into tubes and gluing edge to edge. So on my 3rd attempt at this part I finally had one that worked. I would put this down as the most difficult part I have yet made on this model.

Then I made the ladder which gives access to the bridge. The steps were really tiny, maybe 1mm x2mm, but it all went together quite easily. Rather than try to make any sort of fancy jig to get everything right, at this scale I just eyeballed it. I then used some of the black beading wire I had to make a simple hand rail for the outside edge.

I think that is part VI finished, I will leave the bridge railings till the end when I will do all the railings together. So next Part VII – The armament.

Finally the mandatory pictures. I thought if I leave them all to the end I do not have to worry about what text goes which each picture. I also notice that I forgot to colour the edges of the fuel bunker hatches, oh well.










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