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Hi again,   one more time with a silly question. It is obvious to me that putty will be needed to 'even out' the hull. There seems to be so many choices, could someone point me in the right direction as to brand, make or whatever I should be purchasing?

 

Thanks in advance,  David

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POB?  initial layer of planking?

Small dents = PVA mixed with wood flour.

serious hollows = scab a piece of thin veneer of Softwood or Basswood or Yellow Poplar with PVA and sand/ scrape to conformation.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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Everybody picks their own poison. I prefer Interlux "surfacing compound," also called "glazing compound." Interlux is a brand of quality marine paint. This is a material with the consistency of thin, creamy peanut butter that is thinned with acetone. The acetone evaporates quickly, leaving a plaster-like hardened material which sands "like butter." It can also be worked, as with dried plaster.  It is not highly porus, like drywall paste, so it can be painted without problem. Tools clean up with acetone easily. A pint can lasts forever when modeling.  A tablespoon of acetone added to the can and left to sit overnight will return it to its consistence if it thickens some. (Do not leave the top off the can while working with it. That will cause surface drying in the can.)

 

For large fairing jobs, I also find epoxy resin thinned with microballoons or fairing additive works very well, although curing takes longer than fairing compound. My go-to epoxy flavor is WEST Systems products.

 

I'm not a fan of mixing sawdust into epoxy or PVA. Some are.  I've found PVA is "rubbery" and sands poorly, gumming up abrasive sheets.  Your mileage may differ.

 

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For general use in my shop I keep a can of Durham’s Rock Hard Water Putty on hand.  This comes as powder in a can and mixes with water to the desired consistency.  It is odorless, foolproof, and sands well.  It is stocked by my local big box home improvement store.  I see no reason why it would not work for you.

 

Roger

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