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Posted

Hello, I have just recently gotten into this hobby and I am now at the stage where I feel its time to paint/stain my ships hull and deck.  If you would like to see my progress so far you can check out my build log here.  Before I paint and stain I was curious if its possible to add the illusion of planking on a solid hull ship.  My kit is from Constructo and came with a pre-carved hull.  I would like to add some planking to make it seem more realistic before moving on. 

 

My plan was to take a nail or xacto knife and just make some markings along the hull but I wanted to ask here to see if any of yall have had a similar situation or have any better ideas. I have tried searching it up on this forum site but the only build log that i have seen that has attempted it is by the user moreplovac, and his build of the Sultana.  (Which is incredible) He takes a chisel to his hull to remove some wood and then adds planking in before doing anything else, however, i am far past the first steps of my build and this idea of mine is kind of an afterthought. 

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

Posted

A simple solution is to just add planking to the hull. Bluejackets Constitution is done this way. It would be similar to doing a double planked hull and will look better than trying to draw on planks using an awl or  some similar sort of instrument.

Bill, in Idaho

Completed Mamoli Halifax and Billings Viking ship in 2015

Next  Model Shipways Syren

Posted
4 minutes ago, reklein said:

A simple solution is to just add planking to the hull. Bluejackets Constitution is done this way. It would be similar to doing a double planked hull and will look better than trying to draw on planks using an awl or  some similar sort of instrument.

Thank you for the response reklein.  If I do that would I have to double up on my lower wales? Adding planks straight onto the hull would make my wales flush with the rest of the hull. I do not have the extra material to do that, and I'm not sure of where to buy more of it, my local hobby shop does not have the material. 

Posted (edited)

If you’re going to paint your model, basswood (or lime wood if you’re from Europe) works wonderfully for cheap planking material.

 

If you’re from the US, Michaels, Hobby Lobby, Lowe’s and Home Depot all carry basswood in the hobby section.

Edited by GrandpaPhil

Building:

1:200 Russian Battleship Oryol (Orel card kit)

1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)

Posted

I built a solid hull version of Niagara that I called Lawrence and planked over the solid hull. Had no problems. I made my own planking from clear white pine, cheap and readily available. I think it turned out well. ABED9F6E-B482-4E42-9359-0F4C6DC29A4D.thumb.jpeg.be859534adfc13e1c79acee49422056a.jpeg

E5659B79-CA86-4423-971E-5685737AE4E4.thumb.jpeg.f5a665f1f4768b065196c36525c464cc.jpeg060AC2B6-DC05-44D0-9BAA-EA61FCB33E46.thumb.jpeg.d8e7caff11945e7daf21ad305b147b0d.jpeg

With regard to using other woods in lieu of painting ... the red stripe below the gunports is Redheart, and the lighter stripe above is Osage Orange. I know both will darken over time, but I treated both with Hard Oil which will slow the process. 

 

Steve

 

"If they suspect me of intelligence, I am sure it will soon blow over, ha, ha, ha!"

-- Jack Aubrey

 

Builds:

Yankee Hero, Fannie Gorham, We’re Here, Dapper Tom (x3), New Bedford Whaler, US Brig Lawrence (Niagara), Wyoming (half hull), Fra Berlanga (half hull), Gokstad Viking Ship, Kate Cory, Charles Morgan, Gjoa

Posted

Access your available woodworkers suppliers.  My go-to is WoodCraft - it is a close drive, and has an active Web sales site.

The product that you want is hardwood veneer.  A species of wood with tight grain and closed pore.  In the US - the lower cost species = Black Cherry - Hard Maple.  Take care in the choice.  Most veneer is for the very characteristics that we need to avoid = high contrast and interesting grain.  Many of the species are also open pore.  When reduced by a factor or 50-100, the pores would be soup bowl size or shallow ditches. 

Factors that are desirable - natural,  quarter sawn or plane sawn,  no pre-glue backing,  as thin as can be had.

You will be adding a fixed additional thickness to the hull, so all planking- including the wale needs the treatment.  If the veneer is too thick, the rail will not appear to extend out enough. If you fatten it, it will be too wide.

If you copper the bottom - the thickness of the copper chosen may match the veneer and no planking needed under it.  If it is not too late,  consider not having the swimming body look like a smallpox survivor and use a smooth copper product - in place of an out of scale - too few anyway - embossed product.

 

The veneer will require a heavy precise straight edge and a sharp knife - most of us seem to prefer a #11 style edge.  Using a luthier's knife and a leather strop with gold or green compd - used frequently - will aid in developing better working habits.

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted (edited)

In my build log of my Constitution restoration/rebuild I tackle the same issue and there’s photos of the steps I took to fake the hull planking. I faked the coppering too. My hull was dented and gouged so I used acrylic modeling paste then two coats of krylon spray primer. I painted the hull with acrylic then scribed the planking details. I put thinned acrylic dark paint over the hull then burnished/buffed it off with a rag when it was 80% dry and this left dark paint down inside the scribed lines which accentuated the planking. 

420125CD-0534-422C-8A98-3D77D8CE2CF8.jpeg

Edited by JerseyCity Frankie

  

Quote

 

 Niagara USS Constitution 

 

Posted

For your Wales just add a plank over the existing planking. For more material Michaels,JoAnns or Hobby Lobby usually have Balsa and basswood display boxes.

Bill, in Idaho

Completed Mamoli Halifax and Billings Viking ship in 2015

Next  Model Shipways Syren

Posted
18 hours ago, reklein said:

For your Wales just add a plank over the existing planking. For more material Michaels,JoAnns or Hobby Lobby usually have Balsa and basswood display boxes.

Thanks again everyone, I will check out those hobby stores and make a decision, I will update my decision on my Build-log. feel free to follow along if you want. 

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