timjina Posted April 22, 2020 Share #31 Posted April 22, 2020 When the saw came out of the box, did it come with a fence.....(The straight edge used as a guide for your respective timber)...If not I see this as your major problem. By pushing timber through a saw without a fence the material will want to take it's own course . With a fence or guide ,you are in control.All a guide is ( to make up one) is a length of hardwood 25mmx25mm or 1 "x1"cl;amp it both sides to your desired thickness of the finished cut and away you go .....NOTE always make sure the fence is parallell to the saw blade...hope this is of some help....Have a good day and stay COVID safe mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Pellett Posted April 22, 2020 Share #32 Posted April 22, 2020 The fence is not just convenient, it is an ESSENTIAL feature for using the saw to safely rip materials. Stock must be fed parallel to the blade. If not, the blade will grab the stock and throw it back at high speed. Even a small, underpowered saw is capable of doing this. I do not wish to insult anyone by stressing what might seem to be obvious but I have learned this sort of thing the hard way! Fortunately mostly near misses. Roger mtaylor and JohnLea 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmj Posted April 24, 2020 Author Share #33 Posted April 24, 2020 On 4/21/2020 at 10:02 PM, timjina said: When the saw came out of the box, did it come with a fence.....(The straight edge used as a guide for your respective timber)...If not I see this as your major problem. By pushing timber through a saw without a fence the material will want to take it's own course . With a fence or guide ,you are in control.All a guide is ( to make up one) is a length of hardwood 25mmx25mm or 1 "x1"cl;amp it both sides to your desired thickness of the finished cut and away you go .....NOTE always make sure the fence is parallell to the saw blade...hope this is of some help....Have a good day and stay COVID safe Nope, this thing does 'NOT' come with a fence. You must make your own. I use a 1/4" x 1" stainless steel flat-bar, that I clamp to the table, as my fence. It works great! mtaylor 1 Quote "The journey of a thousand miles is only the beginning of a thousand journeys!" Current Build; 1776 Gunboat Philadelphia, Navy-Board Style, Scratch Build 1:24 Scale On the Drawing Board; 1777 Continental Frigate 'Hancock', Scratch Build, Admiralty/Pseudo Hahn Style, "In work, active in CAD design stage!" In dry dock; Scratch Build of USS Constitution... on hold until further notice, if any. Constructro 'Cutty Sark' ... Hull completed, awaiting historically accurate modifications to the deck, deck houses, etc., "Gathering Dust!" Corel HMS Victory Cross Section kit "BASH"... being neglected! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmj Posted April 25, 2020 Author Share #34 Posted April 25, 2020 On 4/22/2020 at 12:37 PM, Roger Pellett said: The fence is not just convenient, it is an ESSENTIAL feature for using the saw to safely rip materials. Stock must be fed parallel to the blade. If not, the blade will grab the stock and throw it back at high speed. Even a small, underpowered saw is capable of doing this. I do not wish to insult anyone by stressing what might seem to be obvious but I have learned this sort of thing the hard way! Fortunately mostly near misses. Roger Quite true. 'Kick-backs' can be a dangerous and scary thing, especially with thicker woods and more powerful saws. One must be familiar with their equipment, techniques and be experienced in safe practices. I hate to say it, however. 'It's hard to teach folks such things as common sense and safety!" That's usually an acquired 'foresight' that eventually comes to folks only after years of 'hands-on' working experience... and a few 'band-aids' along the way! All you experienced folks know exactly what I mean. You, yourselves were once 'newbies' too. mtaylor 1 Quote "The journey of a thousand miles is only the beginning of a thousand journeys!" Current Build; 1776 Gunboat Philadelphia, Navy-Board Style, Scratch Build 1:24 Scale On the Drawing Board; 1777 Continental Frigate 'Hancock', Scratch Build, Admiralty/Pseudo Hahn Style, "In work, active in CAD design stage!" In dry dock; Scratch Build of USS Constitution... on hold until further notice, if any. Constructro 'Cutty Sark' ... Hull completed, awaiting historically accurate modifications to the deck, deck houses, etc., "Gathering Dust!" Corel HMS Victory Cross Section kit "BASH"... being neglected! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted April 25, 2020 Share #35 Posted April 25, 2020 Kickback is always a "not good" thing. I learned to stand off to the side to use the saw and even the mini table saws can cause you body damage if they kick back. Bob Cleek 1 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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