HM Cutter Lady Nelson by StuC - Amati/Victory Models - 1/64

[StuC]

To be honest, not too much to report, but I've got the top 3 planks on both sides.

 

These weren't tapered at all, and as I suspected, soaking and forming the planks on the bulwarks didn't do anything to help. I ended up slightly over bending the planks to fit the curve at the bow to making gluing with CA easier. I glued the planks in about 3" sections at a time i.e. apply glue to about 3" of hull, then fit and hold the plank in position for about 10 seconds until the CA held it, then would apply glue to the next section etc...

It's not perfect, but I'm pleased enough with it so far.

 

I will fit a 4th untapered plank on the topsides, then an uptapered garboard plank at the keel. The rest will be tapered.

 

Cheers,

Stu

[captain_hook]

You‘ve made a good job so far. 

[StuC]

Thanks Captain, and thanks for the prompt!

 

I fair bit has happened in the last month. I still haven't been home, but started on a new project (for work) on the other side of Australia and am now on the east coast. My workload is pretty high and spare time has been minimal.

 

I've got the 4th plank on and today cut both rabbets which I'm reasonably happy with , but they are far from perfect. Maybe a 6 out or 10 if I'm being generous, but as I will paint below the waterline, I think it will do.

 

 

I made un-tapered garboard planks for both sides and soaked and ironed the compound curves at the bows.

 

 

I didn't think I would have enough time to place them correctly if I used CA, so I decided on yellow PVA and did one side at a time. I held the stern and amidships in position with clamps, and pressed the bow into position and help it with my fingers.

 

 

I'm intentionally using the darker timber below the waterline (as it will be painted), but will colour match above the waterline where I plan to use a couple of coats of thinned matt varnish to seal/protect the timber.

 

 

 

Now I need to decide on the layout for the second planking. I don't like the look of steelers, but they will give a much fairer line to the rest of the planking. I'll have a look through some of the other Lady Nelson and Sherbournes for ideas.

 

Cheers,

Stu

[captain_hook]

Nice work so far. As the hull below the waterline is supposed to be painted white you shouldn‘t worry about using stealers to much. If that is your first model the primary goal should be to finish it, because your second model will already look much better due to the high learning curve and as you continually lean things about ships and modeling you might get frustrated with your first model after some time anyway. My first model was the Ballahoo - I used it for a test build to see if ship modeling is a good hobby for me and I cared much less for planking than you do. I was very happy and proud when I finally finished it but today compared to my second and third build the Ballahoo look rather awful.
 

Before you cut out the gunports you may check the position and make sure, that every gunport is equally distanced from the false deck. You can use a strip of wood as a guide to draw a line inside the bulkwards for reference.
 

If you head for a more scale approach note that the left and right sides of the gunports are orthogonal to the keel while the upper and lower sides follow the sheer / run of the deck. So especially at the bow and stern they look more like parallelograms, like seen on the NMM Sherbourne plan.

[tkay11]

Nice job! Sometimes stealers are just necessary: otherwise builders of real ships would not have used them.

 

Tony