Tension on the Gaff Halyards

[whitejamest]

Hello all, this is my first post on the forum, though I have been finding it to be an amazing resource for a few months now. I've been working in that time on Model Shipways' 1/48 scale 18th Century Longboat, Mr. Passaro's design, and have recently begun the rigging. I am not especially experienced with this sort of thing, and would be grateful for some advice. 

 

My question is about keeping tension on the lines supporting the gaff. Unlike the boom, which is connected by its sheet to the horse at the stern, there is nothing pulling down on the gaff. It is pulled upward by the peak halyard and the throat halyard, and the gaff itself is a very lightweight piece. The consequence of this is that those halyards are visibly lacking in tension. I tried using a little bit of glue to secure the gaff directly to the mast, but that is not going to be strong enough. (I know I shouldn't be trying to put TOO much tension in the lines). I am tempted to drill corresponding holes in the mast and gaff and anchor the joint with a steel pin. But I thought I would seek advice before attempting it. 

Thanks for any help you can offer. 

 

- James

[allanyed]

James, 

I am sure there are members that will help you on this one.  Just wanted to say welcome to MSW.  

Allan

[Bob Cleek]

In real life, it's the sail itself that provides the downward tension on the gaff boom.  If you want to show the gaff boom raised, you pretty much have to bend a sail onto it. As you mentioned, a wire peg or small nail with the head removed set in a drilled hole between the gaff jaws right where they touch the mast and glued into a corresponding hole on the mast, which will invisibly fasten the gaff to the mast, is a solution. Another approach some take is to tie a line from the end of the gaff to the end of the main boom. That line mirrors what would be the leach of the mainsail, although such a line would never have been used on the real vessel.

 

Alternately, the model can be rigged as if the sail was not bent to the booms and the gaff boom simply lowered to just above the main boom and a lashing made between the end of the gaff boom and around the main boom below. In real life, that keeps the gaff boom from swinging back and forth. The upward tension is provided by the gaff halyard and tackle.

 

Some prefer to show the spars in their positions when sail is raised, but absent the sails. That does give an impression of what the rig looks like, absent the sails, but such an arrangement was never seen on the prototype ships as there wouldn't have ever been any point to it. Presentation is a matter of style and is up to the modeler to determine what looks best to them.

Edited May 13, 2020 by Bob Cleek

[whitejamest]

Thanks for the welcome Allan, and Bob thank you very much for the advice. I think I will indeed go ahead with the pinning. Lashing would be very convenient, and certainly a lot easier, but I like the look of the gaff being partially raised, as in Mr. Passaro's example. I think it shows off the details of the gaff a little better. I'll update this thread with details about how it goes, one way or the other...

 

[VinceMcCullough]

One possible solution: put a temporary weight on the end of the gaff, such as an alligator clip or other clamp to give it some heft, and then raise the gaff by the halyards to the desired position.  Then put a small spot of glue on the inner face of the gaff where it intersects the jaws, and let it rest against the mast until the glue dries completely.  Then CAREFULLY remove the weight, as any substantial torque on the gaff will break the glue joint.  This should hold it in the desired position.  

 

A second approach: drill a small hole into the gaff between the jaws, insert a small piece of brass wire and glue it in place. Drill a matching hole in the mast at the level where you want the gaff to hang and insert the end of the wire protruding from the gaff into the hole. Add the parrel, and  tension the halyards, which will bend the wire.  The wire should hold he halyards tight.  

 

Vince McCullough

Edited May 15, 2020 by VinceMcCullough

[whitejamest]

Thank you for the recommendations Vince. I decided to go ahead with the pinning, and I am happy to report that it seems to have done the trick. I used a thin steel rod, so the joint is quite strong. 

 

It would have been easier to do if I had anticipated the problem, rather than having to try it out after building the gaff, but fortunately the operation went well. I tied a tight collar of nylon thread as close to the end of the gaff as the already-installed jaws would allow to discourage splitting, attached it to a wooden block to keep it vertical, and drilled out the hole with a drill press. The hole on the mast I drilled by hand with a pin vice, since the mast was already installed on the boat. I'll post some pictures once I clean the model up a bit. 

Edited May 16, 2020 by whitejamest

[wefalck]

I tend to soak the lines in dilute varnish, once everything is in place and weighed down. The weights are removed once the varnish has dried. This keeps everything where it should be.

[whitejamest]

That's an interesting method Wefalck. What sort of varnish do you use? Do you not find it discolors the lines? 

[wefalck]

We had this discussion somewhere else on the forum: either nitrocellulose varnish (known under the name of zapon-varnish also, which is used to protect polished silver and brass from tarnishing) or a shellac solution. It does not appreciably darken the lines, particularly when used diluted.