Kyak Posted June 21, 2020 Share #1 Posted June 21, 2020 What kind of filler do you guys use after first planking and what kind of glue do you use for second planking? I would like to use pva glue for the planking, i dont have no idea what filler to use. mtaylor 1 Quote Current build: Diana Occre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaager Posted June 21, 2020 Share #2 Posted June 21, 2020 I do not do POB hull assembly, but if the gaps are between the planks of the first layer, why fill them at all? The hull is not meant to float. If there are flats and hollows, PVA bond thin pieces of wood or veneer to build it out and abrade that down to a fair run. PVA bonds by assembling chains and tendrils that invade the pores and rough surfaces of wood - as well as twisting around each other. A surface finished to 100-120 grit seems to be optimal for a good bond. I break my own suggestion because I came to favor 220 grit before I knew better. Gregory and mtaylor 2 Quote NRG member 50 years Current: NMS HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing HMS Beagle 1831 refiit 10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842 Flying Fish 1838 pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers Porpose II 1836 brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Vincennes 1825 Sloop-of-War - POF timbers assembled, need shaping Peacock 1828 Sloop-of -War - POF timbers ready for assembly Sea Gull 1838 pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly Relief 1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly Other Portsmouth 1843 Sloop-of-War - POF timbers ready for assembly Le Commerce de Marseilles 1788 118 cannons - POF framed La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barkeater Posted June 22, 2020 Share #3 Posted June 22, 2020 Using wood strips for flats and hollows works well. If you have a smaller irregularity you want to correct, use wood putty and then sand with a fine grit. You do want to have as much wood to wood contact for gluing when you lay down your second planking as possible so don't go to overboard with filler. For wood to wood gluing use wood glue pva. Only use ca when you are bonding metal to wood and be careful as it stains the wood and is tough to sand out. Gregory and mtaylor 2 Quote Completed scratch build: The armed brig "Badger" 1777 Current scratch build: The 36 gun frigate "Unite" 1796 Completed kits: Mamoli "Alert", Caldercraft "Sherbourne" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaddoc Posted June 23, 2020 Share #4 Posted June 23, 2020 Be careful what filler to use, some trade ones are rock hard when dry. Modelling ones or Elmers are good choices, they sand nicely mtaylor 1 Quote Current projects: 21' Fisherman's Launch - plans by Howard Chapelle Completed projects: 21' Yawl Longboat - plans from the National Maritime Museum Deben 5 tonner - a Whisstock yard design 24' exploration gaff rigged ketch - a Tad Roberts design 15' knockabout sailing boat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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