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I've started my first model ship kit. The Polaris seemed a good starter kit, all the build videos OcCre has sold me on this one. I'm building this on my time off, so updating may be slow in posting.

 

The hull is started. Fitting the bulkheads to insure they were flush with the false keel, I put a witness mark on each so when gluing up they went in the same orientation as when fitted. As it turned out this was unnecessary as they were flush either way. Don't know if I got lucky or if this an indication as to the quality of the laser cutting. I will be using Titebond II on all non-visible parts.

 

 

p2.jpg

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Assembling the bulkheads in order going down the keel, I realized I should have done them in numerical order instead. The small main mast support A12 forced me to reverse the location of the clamps, blocking me from using one to square up stern piece A11. All turned out well in the end.

 

 

p3.jpg

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Started on the deck planking. Reading about the negative aspects of using contact cement as recommended by OcCre, I've decided to use a hobby grade white glue. After gluing down the starter plank I'm limited to two at a time, as I wipe the excess glue off. I then wait for the dampness to go away before proceeding. This will take longer but I think it will be the better method. If I was in a hurry I'd build a Lego pirate ship. :piratetongueor4: After all the planks are placed I will let the deck cure for a few days and flex it to ensure good bonding.

 

 

p4.jpg

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Nice job so far!

 

Building model ships is constant testing andl also trial and error. Before you are not use about some technique then i suggest to make sample piece so you would be satisfied with the end result. 
Different builders use different methods and you will find yours for sure!

 

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Watching. I'm a first time "ship" builder and ordered this kit too. Arrives tomorrow.

 

I am also undecided about using contact glue for the decking. Will most likely use wood glue but need to figure out how to get it on thin enough as not to make a mess.

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Use pva as much as possible. I also was working with ca at start and made a mess as it does not come off, pva does.

Im sure if you start with ca then you will turn to ova at some point.

Also you learn that you dont have to apply it so much-use toothpick.

There are also some good rapid pvas that you can use like titebond quick and thick etc.

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The Evergreen white glue I use has a much smaller tip than elmers or titebond. I can lay a pretty small bead than spread it with a toothpick or brush. I put extra on each plank end. I have concerns about using this method on the second hull planking though, will think that through when I get there.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Deck planking is finished. I'm very happy with the way the caulking between planks came out, but disappointed in how simulating the butt joints with a pencil looks. If I had to do it again I would cut 24 foot planks and pencil the ends the same way I did the edges. Now on the treenails. I ordered a drawplate from Byrnes but it wont ship for 3 weeks. I'm considering using the drill and fill method. Should I shellac the deck first? I'm thinking this would help prevent filler from filling the surrounding woodgrain and make sanding/scraping neater. FYI, my schedule changed to where I'm home 1 day a week, so I moved all my building supplies out of the truck.

 

 

p6.jpg

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Every pic of the deck the way the instructions show seemed too busy for me. As I am using this kit to learn new skills, I did some research on deck planking and decided to use the 3 Butt Shift system. Yeh, I think it looks a lot better than the instructions.

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  • 3 months later...

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