Fair American by KenW - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48 Scale

[KenW]

Thank you all for your support. 

 

Ed:  I used the gun carriages and barrels supplied with the kit.  The bottom of the carriage, including the axles, were pre-cut and square (i.e. the cheeks are parallel).  And, I also had problems extracting the laser carriage parts from the basswood board.  Basswood splits too easily.  My previous model had the carriage parts in a walnut board and I cut the axles from planks.  In this case, I prefer the walnut.  My solution was to simply glue the trucks right onto the cheeks when the axles split off.  The carriage is small enough so that is hard to see.

 

Alistair: I am glad that there are more rather than less bulkheads.  I think smaller spans between bulkheads would make things easier.

[KenW]

I made the hatch covers because I want to have them installed before I do the deck planking.  The problem is that I thought that the grating was made by using the included grating pieces “crisscross”.  But after doing the larger hatch (left in the photo), I didn’t have enough wood pieces for the smaller grating.  Then I noticed that other modelers laid the pieces side-by-side.  So now I have one hatch grating done one way and the other done another way.  But I don’t, at this time, think that it looks so bad. I don't want to take the larger one apart; or try to get more grating pieces from Model Expo.

 

I'm leaving the coaming in walnut.  I like the look of walnut deck ‘furniture’.  So I will probably stain the rest of the furniture wood walnut color.

 

Also, I glued the waterway.

[EdatWycliffe]

Ken, the hatches look fine. It's difficult to tell, but I think that the way I constructed the hatch coamings, the grating area was less than your hatches. I just had enough to finish the job. Are you going to cut the forward corners of the aft hatch? I note that Bob Rafine did that to accommodate ropes passing into the hatch. I'm not sure what the ropes are for, but I figure that if Bob did it, it was a necessary detail.

 

I finished my test cannon to measure the height at which the barrel meets the hull planks. I need to add another plank. I had an extra carriage from the four packs I purchased from Syren My second try was a success. I fashioned the quoin handle by chucking a 1/16 square piece of wood in my Dremel and using it like a lathe. I used needle point files to carve the design. This was a very neat trick I learned from a download on the Syren website. I'll post a photo or two tomorrow.

 

Really enjoying your build.

 

Regards, Ed

Edited August 25, 2013 by EdatWycliffe

[KenW]

I am definitely going to cut the forward corners of the aft hatch.  The holes are for the anchor cables. 

My kit came with small dye cast quoin handles.  I am planning to use them.

Also, I am using Bob Rafine's log as the guide for my build.  He did an outstanding job!

Edited September 7, 2013 by KenW

[KenW]

After studying the plans and the guns that I have already constructed, I decided that the gun ports should be 3/8 square rather than 1/4 inch square.  That requires that the height of the bulwarks must increase by 1/8 inch.  This seems to be a common alteration (see Bob rafine’s log).  Also, the plans have the two aft guns practically right up against the housing front.  I can’t see how those guns could ever be fired without knocking down the ladder to the quarter deck or even the housing itself.  Plus, the captain would have to climb over the guns to exit his cabin.  So I moved the guns about 1/16 inch closer together and will move the housing front aft towards bulkhead #13.  I expect this will provide about an inch between the aft guns and the housing front.

In framing out the gun ports I also added several shims to assure that all measurements were in line and there were no gaps between planks.  This makes for a patchwork look - especially since I used walnut wood for the shims.  I didn’t create a solid bulwark wall as Bob (rafine) did and I hope I won’t regret it later.  But all in all I am pleased with the result.

 

I attach another photo showing the addition of the extra bulwark planks port and starboard.  And yes, there is a boat under all those clamps.

Edited September 9, 2013 by KenW

[EdatWycliffe]

Looks very good, Ken. I may follow your lead and increase my gun ports by 1/16 inch on all sides. Moving the housing front aft at this point will be more difficult since the deck is already laid.

 

Ken, what are the brand of clips you use and do you recall where you got them? There seem to be two kinds--a blue 90 degree clamp and standard (multicolored) clamps.

[KenW]

Ed - Thanks for the comment. 

I found those clamps on www.historicships.com/Tools/Clamping & Holding.  I was using that site for tools before I discovered Micro Mark.

I don't know the brand name, but you can find them on that site.

Cheers.

[KenW]

The stern framing is done and the windows roughly positioned.  I have pieces of planks that the top and bottom of the windows that they can be glued to.  These pieces will need some fine tuning once they are ready for installation.  In order to insure that the hole for the rudder is made in the correct place, I made the rudder.  The framing is a bit rough, but it all gets covered up by the final planking.

I decided not to use the two windows on the stern wings and ‘outside’ the cabin.  (This decision was helped by the fact that the kit only came with six windows.)  I was wondering about the center window and why it is a ‘phony’ window.  Perhaps there were supports there; or the rudder gets in the way.  I welcome any recommendations.

Edited September 14, 2013 by KenW

[EdatWycliffe]

Thanks for the clamp info, Ken. I like the sequence of your build--framing before planking. The practicum I'm using takes a very different approach. Problems are harder to fix. Nice work.

[KenW]

Ed:  I have Bob Hunt's practicum, but I chose not to do his "kit bashing".  I am using Bob (rafine)'s blog as my main guide.  His model is well constructed and his build sequence seems logical and has been good so far.

Thanks for your comments.

[KenW]

The basic frame of the Fair American is complete.  I added the fair caps and supports for the quarter deck, as well as doing a final check of the gun ports to insure their measurements are correct.  So I am ready to start planking the inner bulwarks using soaked basswood and wood glue.

 

 

[rafine]

It's all looking really good, Ken. I'm looking forward to your planking.

 

Bob

[EdatWycliffe]

Looking fine, Ken. I see the QD supports, but don' t know what fair caps are. Also, did you add the fancy rail at this point?

[aliluke]

Looking good Ken - Fair American is a fine looking ship. After Bob's build I gave a lot of thought to trying it - your build may tip me further towards it. Look forward to more.

 

Cheers

Alistair

[KenW]

Thanks for the comments everyone.

Ed:  My terminology was incorrect.  I added the fancy rail (there is no fair cap).

Cheers.

[EdatWycliffe]

Ken, what dimension wood strip did you use for the fancy rail? The plans call for a 3/16 x 5/32 strip but the parts do not include, and the parts list does not mention, a strip with those dimensions. In fact, the list does not mention a fancy rail at all. The strip included with the kit that is closest to the fancy rail is 3/16 square. Also, did you use a filler aft of BH 16. Sheet 5 of the plans mention a filler strip under the fancy rail, but I can't visualize that it would be needed. Thanks, Ed.

[KenW]

The strip I used for the fancy rail was a 1/8 by 1/4 strip.  I chose that based on a guess looking at Bob (rafine)'s blog.  His upper (outer) planking had two 1/8 inch outer planks there. 

Since I added an extra 1/8 inch to the bulwarks to allow for larger gun ports, the top of the bulwark is the same height as that of bulkhead 16.  The height of bulkhead 16 is the same as the two kit supplied pieces that form the side of the stern complex.  So no filler strip was needed.  In fact, the two fancy rail strips run straight from bulkhead 9 to the stern. (I don't remember if the 1/8 by 1/4 strip came in the FA kit or was left over from my last build.)

I hope this helps.

 

I look at Bob's blog daily to answer questions and help plan my next move.

[EdatWycliffe]

Thanks, Ken. That's very helpful. I also check Bob's build log, as well as yours, daily. But, since I'm following the LSS kitbash build, I do not use the same build sequence as you and Bob. Also my build varies considerably aft of BH 16. Still, your log is quite helpful and I appreciate your responses to my Qs. Regards, Ed.

[KenW]

The inner bulwark planking is done and painted.  I had trouble since the planks didn’t “want” to stay tight together.  Therefore, three 1/8 inch wide planks were too ‘wide’ for the gun port openings, which are 3/8 inches high.  So I used sand paper to make the planks slightly thinner.  I don’t think it can be seen; and I used wood filler to fill in any places where light could be seen between planks.

 

The next step is planking the deck.  But I am still undecided about putting a plank inboard of the waterway.  The instruction manual says that one should not be used since “no nibs (were) used on Fair American” since the ship is “too early for nibs”.  I know that Bob used an inboard plank on his model, so I have to decide whether to follow Bob or the manual.  Also, should I add a ‘covering  board’?

 

 I welcome comments.

Edited May 24, 2014 by KenW

[rafine]

It's looking good, Ken. Filler can be very helpful on a painted model.

 

With regard to the margin plank, I followed the lead of Pete Jaquith (on MSW 1) because I liked the look of it. I also followed Pete in using a waterway, rather than the coverboard arrangement shown on the plans. It looks to me from your photos that you've also used a waterway.

 

Bob

[KenW]

I would like to have read the discussions you had with Pete Jaquith; I'm sure I would have learned a lot.

I did use a waterway; but the plans show both a waterway and a coverboard.  I think I may leave out the coverboard.  I just haven't decided about the margin plank inboard of the waterway.  I have to think about it.

[KenW]

Here is a photo that shows the inner planking to better effect.

 

 

[KenW]

Thanks Chris. 

I found the Amati Cornwall site and the etched letters.  I think they are too big, however.  I have some dry transfers that I am going to experiment with. 

Cheers.

Edited September 26, 2013 by KenW

[EdatWycliffe]

Ken, I came across the following info for Cornwall:

1. Model Boat & Ship Fittings - Cornwall Model Boats

   www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/ship_fittings.html‎

   •  
   •  

    

   A wide range of Model Boat Fittings and Model Ship Fittings. We stock various model ranges including Mantua, Caldercraft, Billings, Graupner and Krick fittings.

    

   Regards, Ed

[KenW]

Thanks.  I saw that as well.  They have chains, sail material, parrels, and lots of other stuff.

I've never used them, but most of the things I am interested in are pretty low price, so I may give them a try.

Cheers.

[KenW]

After a great vacation trip with my wife, I am back in “the shipyard” completing final preparations for planking the deck.  I added wide scrap wood between the bulkheads so the ends of the deck planks will have something to glue onto.  I also decided to add an inboard plank because I also like the way it looks.  I notice that there is no ‘treenailing’ on the inboard plank on Bob (rafine)’s model.   I will have to look at some more sites to see if I want to do that or not.

The big problem I had was bending the inboard plank.  I have never been able to bend a plank “sideways”.  Instead, I used the widest planks I could find in the scrap wood from my previous build and cut out the curved inboard plank. (If you look close you can see I needed three pieces of wood for the plank.)   I didn’t want to use the wide plank the kit supplied since it will be required for the rail.  Does anyone have a method of bending planks “sideways”?

 

 

[EdatWycliffe]

Ken, I soak the plank in water for at least 24 hours. However, with basswood the surface fibers become rough after drying and sanding does not completely cure the roughness. I'm not sure that the same problem would occur with better woods.

 

My FA is progressing. I made almost all of the deck furniture from scratch and I'm pretty pleased with the result. I'll post some pictures tomorrow. Good to have you back.

[KenW]

I began planking the deck.  I finished the thicker planks; I decided not to extend these planks beyond the aft hatch.  So the photo shows only the thick planks.  I am not happy with how dirty the planks turn out.  No matter how hard I try to keep my hands clean, I always seem to get the pencil lead on my hands and on the wood.  It doesn’t seem that sanding or scraping is able to restore the nice white color of the original planks.

 

[russ]

Ken:

You are doing good work on this kit.

 

I see what you mean about the deck planks. I have had great results using a generic number 2 pencil and shading only one edge of the planks. Match the shaded edge to a plain edge and there will be a good representation of a caulked seam and there should not be any residue to casue the smudging problems.

 

Russ

[aliluke]

What wood are using for the decks? I'm with Russ - a 2B pencil on one or both edges works for me but I haven't experienced it soaking into the plank and it being a problem with staining the planks. Perhaps the wood species is the problem?

 

Alistair