US Brig Syren by Redshadowrider - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build

[Overworked724]

Hehe. Just kidding!  😂 Those microblades worked well for me. They take about 200 passes but it gives you a clean cut!

[Redshadowrider]

I can say:  Without a doubt, I am gaining a lot of respect for early wooden ship builders.  After sanding, I think I have more dust in the shop-vac than left on the bulwarks  ....LOL  I have been on a few, mostly museums, but never really sailed a wooden one, just a 253" Windjammer.  

 

Anyway, I have completed the shaping (read sanding) the gun port sills and lintels and am next to put in the cross braces (red) and take out the stanchions on 2 bulkheads.   As soon as I get my order of X-acto Saw Blades, I am going to do the last gun ports at the stern.  Weird, I have big saws, little saws, hand saws and razor saws. but never just a plain old saw blade.  Who would have thunk it?  Now that it is starting to look like a ship, here is a picture. 

 

I really need to figure out how to open up the depth of field on my camera.  I do know I have to up the focus area so that not just the center is in focus.

[Redshadowrider]

Got her dun'   ...  well I finished the gun port, sills, tops, sweeps, and (sweep ports?..) and all, but a final sanding left.  I found it to be pretty straightforward and I do appreciate having a color code....even if the templates are not in color.  😄   I do recommend reading through the instructions more than once, for a beginner like me, before doing any work.  It helps a lot with sequencing the build of each port and does make it easier to follow.

 

On to:  Chapter 4 -  Onward and Sternward .....

Edited October 28, 2020 by Redshadowrider

[Redshadowrider]

Stern framing started

 

I am not near finished, but thought I would add this from a newbie point of view.  

 

Newbie Note:  If you are new to this, please heed the warnings in the instructions that this is a delicate piece of construction.  I have had to re-glue one of the vertical pieces as it came out of the form cracked and I did not notice until I went to add it to the assembly.  In addition, I recommend assembling this on a piece of straight material that can be accidentally glued, but still allowing the whole piece to be removed after glue dries.

(There are separate pieces to assemble, and keeping a straight and level line can be difficult.)

 

I used an adjustable square and followed the edge for both straight and level gluing.  I did this only after I tried to assemble it piece by piece with no form.

I still have to straighten the far right double brace, but it is only out of square by very little.  Any who, it is drying now and final adjustments will be made when the sills and tops are added later.  

[Overworked724]

Yeah...I took my time with the transom...especially when it is finally glued in place.  Until you get the bulkhead planking in position and glued along the sides (after you have trimmed it to shape) it just screams, "Break me!!!".  LOL  Also a bit of advice is to add as much support wood between those frame as possible to increase the strength of it so you can sand it without as much fear of breakage.  I actually did the same thing - assembled it off the ship and added it as a single piece when I was ready.  It worked out well.

 

Looking good!!!

[Redshadowrider]

I know that I shouldn’t say this because it will come back to haunt me.......  so far, I have yet to break any stanchions on the main deck even though it’s probably the most sanded area,,,,,,,so I still have time.  😃

Edited October 28, 2020 by Redshadowrider

[Redshadowrider]

Just a couple of update pictures.

 

The first is the transom with the sills added and sanded.  Still a little to go, but for now, they are fine.  The second picture is of the building board that I built with the holders in place for an upside down model placement.  They are able to move side to side and the arms allow for forward and backward angles when needing a different view of the bottom. 

 

Well, back to the transom.  (Oh, almost forgot, yes, I cut out the mini-12 pounder template and it fits perfectly in each gun port)...  1/16" allowed for the deck planking.

 

 

[Redshadowrider]

Time for  a Break - (sort of)

 

As you can see in the picture, I have added the filler blocks at the the stern.  I have yet to sand them, but I just glued them in place this morning.  I will get them sanded when  glue is dry,.......but....     In reading the instructions, it says that if you haven't had any experience in planking a ship, it is recommended that I read a book on planking.  I don't have the one by the author cited, but I do have "Planking Techniques for Model Ship Builders"  by Donald Dressel.  I am going to sit down and read it so I can get some insight.  (132 pages)  Once I have read it, I pick back up on the construction.

 

 

[Redshadowrider]

Question on preceding picture.

 

I have looked at the transom area in the instructions both printed and online.

 

For each filler block, I used a 3/16” x 1/4 block.  Should I add one more block (same size) beside each block?

 

I think the answer is yes, but wanted to check.

[Overworked724]

I wish I’d added a bit more. You can always sand down extra meat. Something you can’t do if there is a gap. I did have a slight gap at the terminus of the stern planking where the counter begins. It made it more difficult to lock in the planks and also can lead to a misshapen area which needs wood filler and sanding. (Which mine did). 
 

I would read other logs and meditate a bit on the planking book, but in the end, I think you’ll make the best decision for your ship. 
 

She’s looking very trim! 👍🏽

[Redshadowrider]

After looking at the picture online and comparing what there is of the rudder, and re-reading the instructions for the fifteenth time, I added another block side by side with the first ones.  I also looked through other build threads and it needs 2 side by side.  They are in place now....  although, sanding and shaping is not going to be easy.  The rabbet is just sitting there saying “hey, don’t hit, or sand me at all....”. 😀

[Redshadowrider]

Sanding Again:  Surprise 😄

 

I have added the filler blocks at the sternpost as in the previous post and have sanded the starboard side.  It ain't as purty as the picture in the instructions, but I think it looks good for my first time.  On to the port...  yes, the port side, not the liquid.

[Redshadowrider]

Four Hours of Filing, Cutting, and of course Sanding,   

 

I have the basic form for the filler blocks ready.  I am sure that there will be minor adjustments, but for now these will do.  And..I still have the rabbet..  😉

 

On to Chapter 5:  Hull Planking

 

 

[Redshadowrider]

Symmetrical, Smooth, and Painted Red

 

I have just added the top Wale plank on both the port and starboard sides.  It took me awhile to get it right.

 

Newbie Warning:   I actually glued on both wales before realized that one plank was lined up with the top, and the other with the bottom.  I was able to pop off the one put on incorrectly and re-glue it without any damage being done.  The last thing I need to do is mess up on planking...and on the first plank.  LOL  

 

The Red is Vallejo Flat Red, and Flat Brown mixed about 5 red to 1 brown.  (eye balled mostly)  Still reading about planking...  😁

 

 

[WalrusGuy]

The deep red paint looks really good! Makes her already look very deadly 😁

[Redshadowrider]

I like how it came out.  The instructions said to not use real red, so I didn’t.  😉

Edited November 3, 2020 by Redshadowrider

[Overworked724]

13 hours ago, Redshadowrider said:

I like how it came out.  The instructions said to not use real red, so I didn’t.  😉

Looks like a similar ratio I used. I used Tamiya red and Tamiya desert yellow at about 5:1. You get that nice deeper reddish maroon. Like blood. 

 

Looking good!

[Redshadowrider]

One Template 18 ports:  

After reading the planking instructions for above the wales, I decided that there will be enough cutting and measuring that I needed a better way.  So I fashioned a small plug template to help me build the port doors while off of the model.  It should also make it much easier to mark the planking for cutting as I build.  

 

Yes, you can patent this one too.  👍

[Justin P.]

My brain just exploded.   That's ingenious.  You should be able to get really clean results with this!   You'll probably need more than one.

Edited November 3, 2020 by Justin P.

[Redshadowrider]

So far, it’s going good with the template.  Now all I am doing is trying to decide on one thing.  Do I put the plank on the bulkhead then cut out the plank opening?  Or, do I mark it out, then cut out the openings before gluing the plank to the hull?  I have tried both and prefer to mark, cut out the openings whenever possible, then glue in place.  Any mistakes in cutting the openings is off of the hull, and not on.  I haven’t had a big mistake cutting the planks, but, when it is on hull, it is inevitable that the gun port sill is very easy to scratch and going back and repainting is a pain.  I have two sills that will need to be touched up.  That’s much better than 18.........  😀

[Justin P.]

I think the best way to cut and measure each plank and build out the openings as you go.   I’ve cut out openings on hulls after planking and it’s not fun or precise.  I’ll never do it that way again.

[Redshadowrider]

You are right Justin, once I tried cutting the planks off of the hull, it went much smoother, and any mistakes can be easily corrected.  That's how I am doing it now.

 

And if you patent the gun port template, I suggest that you sell them in pairs.  You were right that 2 is what is needed.👍  As soon as I started planking around the gun ports, I saw the need for another.  And ta-dah, added another and now I can make sure both gun port planks are right sized with ease.  Here's a pic.

 

 

Edited November 5, 2020 by Redshadowrider

[Redshadowrider]

NEWBIE TIP:  Once you get to this point, you are going to find out that bending planks is an ongoing part of the process.  I have set it up where I have one soaking in water, and another on the bending jig.  I have been bending only one at a time as my planking didn't need much more than one every once in awhile.  Now, however, I am at the bow and doing gun port sides, and the need for bent planking is greater.  

I started to notice small grooves in the planking material left by the jig and the screw threads.  It's not a big deal, but I do want to have a clean plank to start with.  To get rid of the grooves, I took some RC fuel line and screwed it on the jig parts.  ....No more grooves.......👍

[Redshadowrider]

Starboard Planking Done:  Well, at least above the wale, and I still have the sweep ports to finish.  Rather than try to finish the sweep ports during the planking process I did the bottoms as I installed the planking which left a small gap where the sweep port is located.  To this end, my plan is to go back, find the small gap and clean it out to the right size.  It is my last step before going over to the port side and doing all this again.  Such is the life of a ship builder.. do one side and then do it all over.  😁

 

Newbie Note:  Rather than constantly moving from deck side to outside hull when cleaning out the sweep ports, I built another template.  It is 1/8" x 1/8" square and will allow me to check the size on the outside while doing the clean out.  A patent is ok, as usual.  😄

 

 

[Redshadowrider]

Port Side:  Upper planking is now almost complete, just need to cut out the Sweep Ports openings.  All are marked and should take about 30 - 45 minutes. Then it will be on to the transom area, with one issue ....however...   In completing the planking, there is a very small difference between the two.  So small that it is barely noticeable, but it did help me find an issue.  Although I used my canon template and a 1/16" inch thick plank, it is lower in one port than the other.  In looking at it, either the sills, or the lentils are off level. 

I suspect a transom measurement mistake.  If you look at Post #98 it is the upside down transom view.  The lentils all line up across, but the sills are not level.  The upper left support does not match up with the other two.  
 

However, it is the first thing on my list for tomorrow, to check.  I really need to get a better stool for the workbench though, my back is killing me after the planking.  

 

BTW:  The 2 templates for the gun port doors is exactly what I needed to square up the gun ports.  And I was able to plank somewhat faster because I just put a template in side by side gun ports and measuring the plank length was not required.  

 

Here are the pics:

Edited November 10, 2020 by Redshadowrider

[Redshadowrider]

Ongoing Question:  As I continue through the build, I have noticed that the planking appears to have the finish in place.  I am planning to use Tung oil, the question is when should I add the finish?  Reading the forum on finishing, has not helped much as a common answer seems to be “...it depends.”  🙂

[Overworked724]

You can apply tung oil after you’ve sanded. But you can add coats later after finishing too. Tung oil is versatile. 😎

[Redshadowrider]

Whoa, OOPS (PIck Either):  As you can see from the pictures, I have reached the counter/transom stage, and somethin'  just ain't right.  😄 

 

The black line has been drawn from port to starboard using the top plank as the base.  The level shows that the ship and planking are level, but the counter/transom is somewhat off.  Well more than somewhat, it's an outright mistake.  However, knowing where that mistake is, is what I am trying to figure out. 

-The sills for both gun ports are not quite level, but not so far off as to create the problem with the gun port lintels.  

-I have measured the gun port sizes, and they are right at the 15/32" in height, so they are not off. 

-I checked the curve of the counter sides and it is the same on both port and starboard. 

-And the base plank is in the right spot.

-Checked the width of all planks and they are as supposed to be.

 

I am pretty sure I have to reposition the sills and lintels, to ensure they are at the right level.  The top plank on port and starboard help locate the lintels, and I think I should start there and work my way down to the sills.  However, before I cut them out and move them, I would like some input.  From what I can tell, the issue is in the counter/transom build, but I want to make sure I am not missing something.

[WalrusGuy]

Good thing you spotted this earlier than when it is planked, would have been much harder to fix it then 😬

 

Double check if the distance between the sills and deck level are the same for both sides. From the photos they seem a bit off from that pov as well. I am thinking the best option would be to remove the gun port framings and start again, making sure it is completely horizontal. Also don't forget to double check the height of the gun port using the picture of the long gun taped on a 1/16" plank. The muzzle should somewhat be in the middle of the gunports. Here is mine for reference:

 

 

[Redshadowrider]

Thank you Walrus.  That is exactly what it is, and add to that an optical illusion.  It's like in those no gravity houses that have water that runs uphill.  I have attached a picture that shows the parts that need to be shifted.  Won't do the middle one, it is hidden anyway.

 

If you look closely, I have removed the transom template from the plans and clipped it to where it will be when glued on.  Then, I have done what you have recommended.  I checked the canon heights in the gun ports.  I draped a short piece of string with weights on both ends over the top plank at the counter.  The amount that the string intersects with the RED port painting is just about the same that is needed at the bottom of the port.  So if I remove the red parts below the string, move it to the bottom, clean it up, I will be right on target.

The irony is that it is just the sills and lintels being off and the rest is mostly optical illusion.  I measured everything, counted boards, checked their sizes, removed the planks that extended beyond the counter, then test fit the transom.  If I clean up just the lintels and sills, it will all work.  And lastly the starboard side on the counter is lower than the port side.  When I remove the excess above the transom, everything will be where it should and the optics will also change.  It's weird, but very little is wrong.  😄