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Justin P.

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Everything posted by Justin P.

  1. I literally just finished this step yesterday. I too had some trouble, I wound up cutting a wider piece and bending it over only to shape it back. Yours looks fantastic. Still finishing mine up today but hope to share by this evening. great job!
  2. I agree, watching your furniture and other fittings come together is a pleasure! I hope I can achieve similar success when I get there.
  3. I did this with mine for a different build as well. It was really solid, I had intended to remount it to the board but then I just got busy working and haven’t moved the model since. Cutting the board larger than the model itself also provides a kind of barrier from things coming into contact accidentally.
  4. I assume the ones that do not extend are amidships? That was how mine is, and I think it is more or less intended this way. I'm not quite to the caprail step, but my assumption is that it will all come together just fine. I wouldn't worry about it, more important that your gun ports are correct and consistent dimensions. By your picture, everything looks correct. I've only just added the outer wales today, and in the below pic you can see that mine protrude at the bow and stern (click to enlarge).
  5. Someone might, dont give away all your secrets! ha. Seriously though, consider a keel clamp from Amati. While the single point of position you have now is useful, you will need more angles and options for clamping as you go. This has been one of my best investments and provides hundreds of useful and strong positions. Also, consider gluing a rail along the deck, and then flip and clamp to that to give another angle in your own setup. You can remove this later prior to planking the deck.
  6. Looks great, and am glad to help even if it wasnt asked for! Looks like a much smoother run bow to stern. It is amazing how much more rigid the thing becomes as you build in these components. Its during these steps that I found a decent sharp finger plane became very useful for removing the extra material created by the additional wood. Much more accurate (and pleasant) than using sandpaper.
  7. Indeed. I actually thought it was probably the camera exacerbating it, but thought might as well point it out. I think as long as those sills are level then you'll be fine. The ones that would worry me are those towards the stern which "appear" to have a downward angle toward midships. The laser marks are only guides, and really only useful if all else is aligned properly. I tend to go with a mixture of plans, guides and "reckoning." That is too say, if it looks right it likely is or vice/versa. As I don't have the laser accuracy as some of our more seasoned peers do, I rely prett
  8. Well... thats a tough question. Shapr3d is like CAD, but is not CAD in its truest form. I seriously doubt you'll want to manage modeling an entire ship in Shapr. You can, however, model the entire ship in parts on shapr. But trying to amalgamate all those parts into a single model will likely exceed the capability of your Ipad. You could model framing, or deck construction (in parts) or handled as seperate files/projects. You could even model a hull, but its not as easy as using regular AutoCAD. Working with lines and then extracting a hull form from that is not as precise (or
  9. Nice progress. I think much depends on your sandpaper choice as well. I found that gator sandpaper to be noticeably more efficient than the standard brands in working with the ply and other weird grains. Also, I found the rotary tools harder and less precise, which could be my own fault. I took a 1/2 x 1/2" square dowel and cut it down to 3" long and then ground a square float plane landing float shape into it (Im also an RC pilot). This provided a square, but also non-catch shape to fair the inner bulkheads. Using the gator paper, this process did not take long at all.
  10. Very interesting! I haven't the faintest about origin, but can tell you that you have quite a treasure there! Could also be in reference to Harold Hahn - who knows?! I'm a rare book conservator and have worked in and around bindery's a long time. What I can tell you is that the Valve company likely had an in-house spiral binding machine and a stock of custom spirals with their name printed on them OR a stock of blank drafting journals pre-bound. Like a company might order pens with their name on them... Anyway, this was for employees to bind up their own notes/designs/drafts to keep in
  11. Yes. I use it all the time. Got a question?
  12. I suspect Ill join the cohort of those who've snapped one of those frames as well! If you don't mind Ill follow along!
  13. Yes... Ive been plugging away. School has started up and with COVID the kids are homeschooling, meanwhile Im also still working from home so things have been pretty hectic. The last few stages of my build have gone well. Slowly, but well. Its amazing just how much time some of these steps can take, and Ive just been chipping away as and when I get a few hours in the shipyard. Also, I may be overdoing things a bit as my patience has grown and my ability to overlook flaws has diminished. Just getting the painted gunports finished took awhile, as I really wanted them to be just so, and
  14. Its looking really great, I very much like how the carronades turned out. Lots of clean details, my favorite.
  15. Model Machines currently sells a selection of blades that correspond (perhaps not exactly) to the above document. I buy direct from him.
  16. Seems too large to be a button to me, I agree its more likely a knob or handle of some sort.
  17. I think people can sometimes get bogged down in equipment and machine tools if led to believe they are "needed" to achieve a satisfactory result. I think if your are an efficient and knowledgeable user of mills and lathes then by all means, we all do things our own way. Not knowing someones experience or skill set with mills and lathes, they wouldn't be my recommendation for something like masts and spars. I think its important to remember that perfect results from machines require a certain level of understanding and knowledge with those machines. Hand tools, in my opinion, can be a
  18. I agree, I actually found using a lathe to be more work. I tried at first because I had one, and wanted to use it. Eventually I settled on square stock, an Ibex finger plane and sand paper. Much easier.
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