Benjamin W Latham by Jim Low - Model Shipways - 1:48

[Jim Low]

Ok, this being my second wooden ship model (first was a Bluejacket Swampscott Dory), I’m prepared to take the plunge into sharing my ignorance. I’ve been closely following the logs of experienced builders of this model and similar schooners, and I hope to learn by doing. Having just completed bulkhead framing, I thought it would be helpful to pass on some initial thoughts to newbies like me, who are considering this model: 

1. A Dremel tool is proving remarkably helpful for sanding, shaping, fudging, etc.

2. When completing the initial steps of gluing the keel halves (port and starboard), take the extra step of inserting a piece of scrap wood or two from the bulkhead sheet into one or two of the bulkhead slots before gluing and weighting/clamping. Do this regardless of whether you glue fore/aft sections before p/s or after. Any minuscule deviance fore and aft at the slots will create a lot of work in the next step of inserting and gluing the bulkheads, since there is virtually no tolerance in the laser cut pieces.  As an alternative to the order prescribed in the instruction, you may want to glue up the entire keel bulkhead assembly at one time, then check alignment with the plank sheers before the glue dries.

3. In the event you choose to ignore item 2 above, see item 1.

4. When attaching the keel-stem per the instructions (i.e. after chiseling out from the beardline), I found it helpful to use toothpicks (the good, round hardwood ones) as dowels after the glue has set. This wasn’t for alignment—which was pretty easy— but rather to add strength to the joint, which has been glued along a rather narrow interface. I just drilled (again Dremel) conforming vertical holes through keel-stem and main keel piece and glued them in place. 
That’s all for now. More headaches to be identified as I trip over them. 

 

 

 

[jwvolz]

Jim, first welcome to MSW!

 

Second, welcome to building the Benjamin W. Latham. So far it's been quite an enjoyable build for me, and not too many pitfalls. As I'm sure you're seeing, MS has some very good instruction books, and Erik  Ronnberg Jr.  is quite the expert on this subject.

 

Looking forward to seeing your progress. 

[Jim Low]

Thanks for the encouragement Joe. I’ve looked at your Latham log, and if I can do half that well I’ll be very happy. Just started on the transom, so your pix came in very handy. Just so I’m clear on the bending, the transom curves out , right? The piece should be convex away from the side with the top bevel?

[jwvolz]

2 hours ago, Jim Low said:

Thanks for the encouragement Joe. I’ve looked at your Latham log, and if I can do half that well I’ll be very happy. Just started on the transom, so your pix came in very handy. Just so I’m clear on the bending, the transom curves out , right? The piece should be convex away from the side with the top bevel?

Correct Jim, convex. 

[GuntherMT]

Looking forward to seeing some pictures of your work.

 

I would advise caution when using the amazingly useful Dremel tool.  While they can be a huge help, if you are not careful a single slip can wreak some major havoc on a wooden model, so use care and have a steady, hopefully braced, hand!

[Jim Low]

So far, so good. I’ve still got nine fingers left. 

[BobG]

I love this model so I'll be following along also. Good luck with your build, Jim.

[Jim Low]

I’m steadily moving forward, and I promise to share pictorial evidence of my progress once I’ve swallowed my pride. At this point I have completed hull planking/painting, decking and rails and am now moving on to deck furniture and gizmos. I am scratch building what I have to, but my carpentry skills are better suited to normal sized lumber, so my furnishings don’t show the remarkable level of skill I’ve seen on other build logs. Oh well, learn by doing.
 

One question I will throw out there to any of you who have worked on a Model Shipways build, particularly those who have worked on the Latham or the Bluenose.  How much should I suffer through trying to get the Brittania metal hardware to function anything like the plans call for?  I’m speaking mainly about the construction of the capstan.   Has anyone actually created the capstan assembly that they diagram?  The pieces don’t have holes where they should, and the microscopic hardware they call for (e.g. clevis pins that measure about 0.1 mm in length) appear to be unrealistic. I’m tempted to bypass realism for generous applications of CA. Also, did anyone notice that the aft view of the assembly in the instructions reverses the P/S orientation as shown in the plans??  Thanks.  

 

Edited December 21, 2020 by Jim Low

[CPDDET]

I believe Overworked724 built a capstan, but not sure. You can message him. Like most of us, he hated the white metal parts that come with the kits.

[GuntherMT]

3 hours ago, Jim Low said:

I’m steadily moving forward, and I promise to share pictorial evidence of my progress once I’ve swallowed my pride. At this point I have completed hull planking/painting, decking and rails and am now moving on to deck furniture and gizmos. I am scratch building what I have to, but my carpentry skills are better suited to normal sized lumber, so my furnishings don’t show the remarkable level of skill I’ve seen on other build logs. Oh well, learn by doing.
 

One question I will throw out there to any of you who have worked on a Model Shipways build, particularly those who have worked on the Latham or the Bluenose.  How much should I suffer through trying to get the Brittania metal hardware to function anything like the plans call for?  I’m speaking mainly about the construction of the capstan.   Has anyone actually created the capstan assembly that they diagram?  The pieces don’t have holes where they should, and the microscopic hardware they call for (e.g. clevis pins that measure about 0.1 mm in length) appear to be unrealistic. I’m tempted to bypass realism for generous applications of CA. Also, did anyone notice that the aft view of the assembly in the instructions reverses the P/S orientation as shown in the plans??  Thanks.  

 

 

The only white metal parts from my MS kit (AVS) that I used were part of the anchors, the mast hoops, the fitting where the main-mast and top-mast connect and the ships wheel.  Oh, and the fitting where the bowsprit and jib-boom attach.  All the other cast metal parts went in the bin, I replaced all of it because it's pretty universally garbage in my opinion.

[jwvolz]

I've used most of the britannia parts, with some modification, notably on the fife rails. The windlass is doable, you just have to clean it up good and carefully paint. Yes, some of the hardware will have to be a bit oversized, but using fine wire does help. This build has seriously taxed (and elevated) my soldering skills!

 

I didn't even look at the instructions regarding the windlass. The plans are correct. 

[jlefever]

It's definitely buildable and as Joe notes a real soldering skills builder.

 

In building my version I replaced several of the wood portions, bits, cheeks and handles in the levers with actual wood and soldered up the links as shown in the instructions. Just for grins and for luck I added a horseshoe to the kingpost. Didn't lose any fingers on the exercise but a few soldering burns....

 

There are a couple images of my project in the gallery but the windless is not terribly well represented.

 

If you can put your hands on Howard Chapelle's The American Fishing Schooners it will answer a lot of questions about details and proper dimensions.

 

Found the image below in my files.

 

 

Jim

Edited December 24, 2020 by jlefever