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Everything posted by jwvolz

  1. Good to hear Mike. It does look good. The difference could lie in that I used copper tape vs. the plates. Mine therefore had a bit of stretch/flexibility that the plates don't have.
  2. Good start Mike. When I did Cruizer (same hull) I did one belt and then a one row belt at the waterline. It worked out well with no issues, looks good and would certainly be easier. That drawing is a two-decker so deeper hull, which would likely have a different run than a brig. There are some pictures in my build log.
  3. Good question actually as it did take some effort. Each loop is individually glued down with white glue and then a weight was put on until dry. I repeated with each subsequent layer. Wouldn't stay put otherwise and gave much better control of the lay. Thanks to everyone else as well, and the "likes".
  4. I have completed the ratlines on both masts, which really wasn't too bad with the limited number of shrouds. Lantern boards were built and painted and secured with thin brass brackets seized to the shrouds per the plans. I also soldered up the topmast spreaders from brass wire and seized those to the shrouds as well, to keep the stay clear of the lantern boards. I didn't really document the booms being fabricated and assembled/painted, but their installation has begun. The hardware was made from various brass strips and wire. Their rigging has also begun with sheets and topping li
  5. It's obviously your decision Chuck on which way to go, and everyone should respect what you ultimately decide. But...since you asked I would also say keep blocks. Much for the same reasons others have stated. Thanks!
  6. I had zero issues cutting the extensions off before any planking. You have to trust me it will work, and it is much easier to match everything up rather than trying to shape the ply. I'm not sure how the planksheer goes on the Bluenose, but as I mentioned it was easier to install that first, and then replacement stanchions in the pre-cut notches. Everything ends up plenty strong enough and the bulwark planking went on fine. There are some photos of all of this in my log.
  7. I agree 100% on removing the bulkhead extensions. I did that on my Benjamin Latham build. Not only does it ensure consistency (they plywood is a real paint to work), but at least on the Latham it makes fitting the planksheer much easier. My build log has some photos showing this.
  8. Find thin basswood stock and shim with that. Most kits just aren't perfect in terms of length of bulkheads. Errors just creep into these things from design to laser cutting. Don't sweat it. It will all smooth out once you start fairing the frames. Spacer blocks will definitely fix the keel warpage as well. They're also going to come in very handy when you go to plank the deck, as the narrow planks will lay MUCH better over a solid surface. I did the same on my current Benjamin Latham build if you want to look at my build log for photos. Good start.
  9. Thanks Rich. It's a fantastic kit, and the larger scale is nice. I'm really enjoying the build, as it's a nice change of pace from warships. One other though on the decking... You could go with a 1/32" sub deck and then use 1/32" planking material, which would keep you at scale height. Though, using the balsa filler is still likely easier.
  10. Good start Rich. While you still can, I'd advise balsa between every bulkhead. It isn't so much for fairing purposes amidship, but to give you a solid surface for deck planking. The deck planks in the kit are likely fairly narrow and will lay much better over a solid surface. It also allows scale lengths and butt shifts without having to worry about landing on an existing bulkhead. See my current Benjamin Latham build log for an example. Even though that kit is 1/48 it has 1/16" deck planks.
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