USS Constitution by Force9 - Revell - PLASTIC - Revisiting the classic 1/96 kit

[Force9]

Patrick - The Bluejacket PE is actually reasonably thick - especially compared to normal PE.  I think it'll do fine once I sand the coamings with the PE gratings in place to make them look cohesive and eliminate the edges that may suggest that the gratings aren't thick enough.

 

Radman - It has been at least 25 years since my last attempt at this kit (which you see in my initial post).  I do vaguely recall filling some minor gaps, but nothing as serious as you suggest.  Here is an underside view:

 

 

I'm not sure I can be helpful, but I'd recommend working to align the bottom edge first and letting the rest of the stern piece fit in place.  Notice that the thin white trim strips don't exactly align between the transom and the quarter galleries.  That can be adjusted with some extra styrene.

 

I'm a bit far from that step as yet, but I'll be a bit wiser if I can benefit from your experience once you've mastered it on your build.

 

Thanks to you both for your continued interest.

[popeye the sailor]

I finally have your log back in my list Evan.......yours is a very interesting take on this kit.   as I had mentioned on your log {before the site went down} that I had built the Connie,  and the United States.   I have looked high and low for another U.S. kit....finally finding another one a couple of years ago.  I have started it,  but I need to finish a few other builds before I get to her.  the detail your adding to your build, is just a reminder that for most model manufacturers,  what isn't seen,  need not be included.   I will follow your build with interest.

[lambsbk]

Force9:

 

I am just about ready to start the detail work for the gun deck and am following some of your already tried methods. The capstan dimensions are tight (9/16" for the ring of the gundeck capstan). How did you fit them to the plastic Revell decking? i.e. between the ladders and the coamings? Thanks

Edited April 19, 2013 by lambsbk

[Force9]

Lambsbk

 

I think there is enough clearance for the companionway on my model... At least my test fit seemed fine.  I did build up a platform for the gun deck capstan that lets me overlap the coaming slightly. Perhaps a slimmer ladder (Plastruct makes some suitable for the purpose) could give you a bit more room if needed...  

 

I'll try to update this post with a picture of my deck test fit.

 

Hope that helps

 

EG

Edited April 20, 2013 by Force9

[Force9]

Folks...

 

Work continues on the spar deck details. 

 

The fore fife rail has been cleaned up a bit along with the topsail sheet bits and I've replaced the connecting pin rails.  The kit provided railing includes a nice curve to reflect the camber of the deck so I thought it'd be best to utilize it instead of making a complete replacement.

 

 

The main fife rail is unique to Old Ironsides and is nicely executed in the Revell kit.  I just cleaned it up and added the brass pins.  I think I used a #72 drill bit for the pin holes:

 

 

(Those folks building sister ships take note - you'll need to replace the main rail with something more conventional.  And for that matter the Trysail mast has to go and the double dolphin striker will need replacement with a single.  All are unique to the Constitution).

 

The kit provided Monkey rail was also utilized after getting cleaned up.  This rail is a bit shorter than the others on this deck... Sometimes modelers will think this is odd and replace it with a taller railing.  It is intentionally shorter to allow for the "sharks mouth" that wraps around the main mast and supports the end of the mizzen stay:

 

 

 

Thanks for looking

Edited April 20, 2013 by Force9

[Force9]

The Binnacles were also replaced with scratch built versions.  I figured that the effort needed to clean up the kit versions would be similar to what it would take to build new ones.  I raised the height slightly - I thought the kit originals were a bit low for the helmsman.  I also thought it would help scale down the double wheels - which seem slightly big for this scale. (The smaller binnacles make the wheel seem even bigger)

 

 

 

These will eventually be painted green to match the bulwarks (as shown on the Hull model)

 

Thx

[Force9]

More stuff for the spar deck...

 

Next up is the double wheel.  Early ship records show only two helmsmen assigned to steer, so it has been inferred that she originally only had one wheel.  Records from 1804 clearly show four helmsmen to steer so the double wheel has been fitted.

 

The restored ship in Boston has a beautiful double wheel with elegant pedestals and curved supports.  

 

 

The Bluejacket version replicates these details nicely, but I think it is a bit under scale. This is an instance where I prefer the Revell version.  I did, however, take the trouble to add the curved supports to bring the detail up a notch.

 

 

Getting a styrene piece to bend and keep a shape is no fun - especially when this detail will require two bends.  The easiest solution is to laminate together two strips and hold them in a mold/pattern until the glue sets.  I used .30x.30 Evergreen strip glued to a .10x.30 Evergreen strip. Here was my quick method:

 

 

I made the laminated strips long enough to easily bend against the mold and then trimmed them to fit.  After a count of 30 or 40 seconds they would hold their shape nicely.  I had to make 5 or 6 (okay - maybe 7 or 9) to get four that were worthy.  The final product (less painting of course):

 

Thanks for following along

 

Edited April 25, 2013 by Force9

[lambsbk]

Amazing work Force9. Can't wait to see it detailed and painted.

[Force9]

Thanks for the kudos!

 

I have a few more assemblies to make before I break out the airbrush - but I'm getting there!

 

EG

[Force9]

Friends...

 

It is amazing how little is certain even with a famous ship like Constitution... 

 

Now that I've reached the spar deck, I realize that I will need to cherry pick across the various sources to choose different elements from conflicting information - and from here forward they will be very visible. 

 

With that in mind, I think it'd be appropriate to pause a moment and re-evaluate the sources at my disposal.

 

My build still relies primarily on the Michele Felice Cornè series of paintings of the Guerriere battle and the "Hull" model - both in the Peabody Essex museum collection.  Where possible I will follow these sources with a few bits of artistic license tossed in the mix (I've already deviated somewhat with the stern gallery windows).  

 

The works of Commander Tyrone Martin are a popular resource.  I have most in my collection:

 

 

I've already utilized his "Creating a Legend" to add interlocking deck planks on my gun deck.  His "A Most Fortunate Ship" is the premier reference for the biography of the ship.  Be warned, however, that his take on the Guerriere fight is controversial.  Most "modern" historians have generally dismissed his version - including Margherita Desy, the official historian of the ship attached to the NHHC DET Boston.

 

Here are some great books for model builders:

 

The AOTS USS Constitution by Karl Heinz Marquardt is a common reference.  His reconstruction of the ship, however, is questionable... It seems to be a concoction based on some historical influences mixed with the 20th century restoration.  Not particularly useful for my attempt to recreate her August 19, 1812 appearance.

 

Chappelle's History of the American Sailing Navy is a standard reference and includes the very useful drawings of the US Frigate President copied from British records made after her capture.  I've used this for the layout of the various pumps on the gun deck.

 

I've already referenced the Bluejacket kit manual.  That is a terrific resource to have if you can only add one of these to your stash.  Great overview of both the hull and rig - and it includes full 1/96 scale rigging plans.

 

The book in the foreground is new and deserves more comment.  My forum friend Marcus from Germany finally put me over the edge with his glowing recommendation.  It is a very expensive purchase, but well worth it to me.  Olof Eriksen built a very large stainless steel model of our ship and he went to extraordinary measures to thoroughly research every aspect - especially the rigging.  He initially compared notes with Larry Arnot who then connected him to Commander Martin.  Thru Martin's good offices he gained access to the Hull model and conducted a complete survey which even included micro-cameras inserted into the lower deck.  Cmdr Martin also provided him with a copy of Midshipman Anderson's journal made when the ship was being restored to her 1812-1815 configuration in the 1830's.  Additionally, Mr. Eriksen was able to  make copies of the very rare The Naval Apprentice's Kedge Anchor. Young Sailor's assistant. (1st edition 1841) by William Brady.  This reference allowed him to not only compare American practices against British, but also allowed him to compare between Brady, Midshipman Anderson's journal, and the Hull model to find consistencies.  Practices that Mr. Eriksen matched across all three were likely to be very accurate and were incorporated in his model.  We'll discuss some of these findings in more detail as we move along.

 

More of the build shortly

 

EG

Edited April 23, 2013 by Force9

[Jaxboat]

Excellent build of this venerable plastic model. I hate to say this but my first build of a Revell model of Constitution predates the intro of this version by at least a decade! I seem to remember the introduction of the 1/96 version was really big dealand she became the flagship of the Revell line. The vacuum formed sails never looked good but the ratlines were at least passable. Some versions of the model even came with prepainted copper plates. I recently purchased a heavily discounted 1/96 and hope to build it in conjuction with my ME version. Thanks for sharing your build and bringing me back with nostalgia

Jax

[Force9]

Hello Jax

 

I'm glad this has rekindled good memories of a great kit... I hope to see your version in the near future.

 

EG

[Force9]

Here is a bit more progress...

 

I'm not thrilled with the kit provided galley funnel (later called the "Charlie Noble").  It's not bad, but not good either.  It is easily dismissed or overlooked on the foredeck.

 

The Hull model shows us a short and stocky version:

 

 

This is  the way to go if I want to be strict with my sources and true to the most historical representation of her August 19, 1812 configuration.  But here is where I may exercise some artistic license.  If I lay out the boats in the OOB configuration, then this funnel points directly into the butt end of the stored cutter that spans the skids and foredeck. And I've seen several models of ships in this period that display a taller funnel.  Even the restored ship today has a much taller Charlie Noble.  This, I think, may be an opportunity to utilize something from the AOTS book that adds a bit more interest to this part of the deck.  Perhaps not entirely accurate, but what the heck (and maybe I abuse Marquardt too much and should at least acknowledge his version of the ship in this small way).

 

Here are the raw materials; .188 dia. solid rod styrene (Plastruct 90863), .188 dia.tube styrene (Evergreen 196), .188 x .188 styrene (Evergreen 196), some very narrow/thin styrene strip, and the wonderful Jotika .3mm PE brass eyelets.

 

I glued a hunk of the Evergreen 196 to the base of the solid rod and then shaped the corners with a small file to blend the pieces. Then I cut the 45 degree angle in both the solid rod and the tube and glued them together.

 

Finally I wrapped the funnel with some narrow styrene and added some eyelet "tie downs" around the perimeter.

The end result:

 

The baffle plate was easily made - I added a common paper hole punch to my tool box and snipped out a few discs from some thin and wide styrene strips.

 

Certainly a more interesting element than the alternative.  Later I'll add the baffle plate and some small tackle to hold the funnel stable in a heavy breeze.

 

EG

[Blue Ensign]

Nice work on the ships wheel Evan, and the replacement stove cowl looks good, if a little tall in relation to the crew figure, to my eye. what scale height does it work out to?

 

If I remember correctly those Revell crew  figures work at at around a scale 5' 6" which would make it 7 or 8 feet high. Will be interesting to see how it looks in place on the deck.

 

Cheers,

 

M.

[popeye the sailor]

looks very nice! 

[Force9]

Lads -

 

Thanks all for the compliments on my little smoke stack!

 

Blue Ensign - you may have a point about the height being too tall.  I might bring it down a notch to scale a bit better.  I had made it about half again as tall as the kit provided piece without really thinking it thru...

 

Now for another deviation:

 

The Revell kit makes no provision for a ship's bell.  This is likely because the historic Hull model does not show a bell - one of many elements that were omitted as the crew scrambled to complete the model in time to present it to Capt Hull before he quit the ship.  I would think that a ship's bell would be an integral part of maintaining the shipboard routine in 1812 and needs to be included.

 

The restored ship in Boston has the bell mounted to the forward face of the mainmast amidships via a small tripod bracket - this is the same solution offered by Larry Arnot in the Bluejacket kit instructions.:

 

 

The restored ship had a belfry on the foredeck at one time.  It seems like it was removed within the last decade or so and replaced with this version.  There may be something official in the historical record to support this, but I can't find any references.  Perhaps the c1820 Charles Ware drawing of the United States spar deck is the source:

 

 

With the boats positioned in this manner, there is no room for a belfry in the traditional location.  Perhaps the mainmast solution made the most sense.  (BTW - this would seem to be the reference for the boat layout in the Revell kit).

 

I don't like the main mast solution.  I am thinking of adding a belfry and historical proof be d - m'd!  This would also require me to reposition the storage of the boats, but that is easily managed.

 

Have a look:

 

 

Here also is a view down to the gun deck capstan:

 

Thoughts from other modelers?

[popeye2sea]

I believe that the only reason the bell is on the main mast now is because that is the location of the gangway and consequently where the Navy posts the Officer of the Deck.  If you notice in the photo there is a small wood cabinet attached below the bell.  This houses the emergency alarms and the microphone for the public address system.  The watchstander is responsible for sounding the bell for time keeping and for side honors.

 

P.S. A new bell was just installed aboard last August during the bicentennial celebration of the battle with HMS Guerriere .  In my opinion the new bell sounds awful.

Edited April 26, 2013 by popeye2sea

[lambsbk]

I am glad to see you work on the bell (great detail) as I too was considering how to install it. Did you turn the brass for your bell?

I was going to wait and see if the rigged main mast would allow the placement where it is currently mounted. Your solution is fascinating.

[lambsbk]

Force9: I know it is not mounted permanently yet but is the camboose stack backward?

[Garward]

The decision to establish a bell the very correct.

[lambsbk]

Sorry about the camboose stack comment Force9...I just realized it is SUPPOSED to face forward. Duh...live and learn.

[Lord Robster]

Wow, after viewing this "version" of the Revell Connie, it makes me want to (seriously) go out and get the kit (this would be my third build) and see if I could do just half as nice as this one.  I was very close to buying that kit last year and then decided to give a wooden kit a shot.  I have throughly enjoyed the experience but I would love to build a great Constitution and the wooden kits are very expensive and quite scary to a novice such as myself.  This seems like a great alternative.  I love scratch building furniture and such.

[Force9]

Folks -

 

Apologies for the late response... long story...

 

Popeye2sea - thank you very much for the insight... I think based on your response alone I am feeling comfortable with my direction for the belfry.  I see you looking smart in your marine attire... I've entered the lottery for the July 4 turnaround cruise for a decade straight and have never gotten lucky.  I did once have a chance to ride one of the tugs, but I fell ill at the last minute (ugh!).  I think I may need to enlist in the marines myself and invest (what is probably a considerable sum) in a uniform and somehow acquire the skill and knowledge needed to earn my way on board.  Now that I consider it, I think I have a better chance with the lottery!  Thanks again for your guidance regarding the bell.

 

Lambsbk - I did not cast my own bell.  I had a 6mm bell from Model Expo sitting in my stash for a couple of decades... Finally put it to some use.  I don't even know if it is still in their catalog.  The folks at Bluejacket also have a scale bell in their catalog that will work.  I see you worked through your own question regarding the direction of the galley funnel.  I think most funnels were set up to allow them to be rotated depending on the prevailing breeze.  Many include handles on the side (see HMS Victory).  It is probably valid to point the funnel in any direction.

 

Garward - thank you for the confirmation

 

Lord Robster (Your lordship?)

Thanks for your kind remarks... Third time's a charm?  I'm sure you'd enjoy another round with this great kit - and feel free to utilize any of the approaches you see in my build.  I'd be thrilled to think I've had a positive influence on other modelers willing to take some chances to bring something extra to this venerable box of plastic.

 

I'm struggling with the boat chocks... Hope to post something more on the weekend.

 

Thanks all for following along

 

EG

Edited May 9, 2013 by Force9

[popeye2sea]

EG

If you are from the New England area you should consider coming to visit us at the Charlestown Navy Yard.  We are there on the last Saturday of every month to do demonstrations, cannon and musket firing.  We are recruiting   You do not have to be military or ex-military.

 

BTW, recruiters in 1812 paid a bounty of 10 dollars for signing up for 6 years.  It was payable to your family to compensate for their lost income.  The marine received 6 dollars per month, 3 meals a day and one uniform per year.

[Marcus.K.]

... My forum friend Marcus from Germany finally put me over the edge with his glowing recommendation.  It is a very expensive purchase, but well worth it to me.  Olof Eriksen built a very large stainless steel model of our ship and he went to extraordinary measures to thoroughly research every aspect - especially the rigging.  He initially compared notes with Larry Arnot who then connected him to Commander Martin.  Thru Martin's good offices he gained access to the Hull model and conducted a complete survey which even included micro-cameras inserted into the lower deck.  Cmdr Martin also provided him with a copy of Midshipman Anderson's journal made when the ship was being restored to her 1812-1815 configuration in the 1830's.  Additionally, Mr. Eriksen was able to  make copies of the very rare The Naval Apprentice's Kedge Anchor. Young Sailor's assistant. (1st edition 1841) by William Brady.  This reference allowed him to not only compare American practices against British, but also allowed him to compare between Brady, Midshipman Anderson's journal, and the Hull model to find consistencies.  Practices that Mr. Eriksen matched across all three were likely to be very accurate and were incorporated in his model.  We'll discuss some of these findings in more detail as we move along.

Hello Evans,

 

first of all I want express my gratitude for this honour ;-) .. but I think I do not deserve this.

 

I did not much more than you did: describing what Eriksen published. But you did much more than I, I believe. You did study his book and you consider his findings. Thats far more I ever did until now. And more important: Erkisen did his research and did publish them in the beautiful book. Its only a pity that the publisher did not understand the need of bigger pictures or even fold out plans .. and that he wants to earn that much money ..

 

 

You can not imagine how much your report inspires and how much its increasing the itching to start with the own model ...

 

I very much like your Charlie Noble and the bell - beautiful.. The rails .. as from a "textbook" - beautiful and obviously much more reliable.

 

I am looking forward to your next update - thanks for sharing your ideas and your results!

[Force9]

Hello Popeye/Henry

 

I'm not sure the wife would take the ten bucks to compensate for my lost income, but I'd probably join up just for the 3 meals per day and the new uniform.

 

Unfortunately, I live on the wrong coast - altho we visit family in Boston at least once a year.

 

Cheers

Evan

[Force9]

Hallo Marcus!

 

I do have you to thank for putting me over the edge for buying the Olof Eriksen book.  I'm very much enjoying his insights on the rigging.

 

I'm glad you are enjoying my build log and are inching closer to attempting your own Connie...

 

Thanks for popping in to check on my progress.

 

Evan

[lambsbk]

Force 9: Have you seen any info on the anchor cable storage. When the Connie went to chain it went into a chain locker amid ship. But the hemp cables were stored on the Orlop deck and laid out specifically to dry and in such a way to prevent fowling when dropping anchor. However, I can not find HOW the cable transitioned from the Gun deck to the Orlop deck. If you have any info on this I would love a reference. Thanks.

[popeye2sea]

Lambsbk,

There are two hawse pipes on the gun deck and corresponding ones on the berth deck that allow the cable to pass down to the orlop.  I will take pictures of them on Tuesday when I am aboard next.

[Force9]

Hello Lambsbk...

 

The typical method is for the anchor cables to drop down through small openings in the near corners of the central hatch on the gun deck.  The Marquardt AOTS book has a good diagram of this...

 

(I think Popeye will see a more "modern" solution put in place in the '27 refit - they had to install an anchor solution that would work for her national cruise following her rebuild.  Hence the allowance for chain with non-historical bitts and hawse holes, etc.)