Cutty Sark by rfolsom - Billing Boats

[rfolsom]

Hello all;  I'm new to MSW but have been working on the Cutty for about 15 months now.  I am also working on the US brig Niagara, and just now learning how to post.  Hope to have some pictures up soon.

 

Bob

[Anja]

Hello Bob,

 

Welcome aboard.

 

To help you find your way around the forums, please have a look at the topics in our 'Questions/instructions on how to use and post to this forum/Site Problems or suggestions'. It contains a lot of tips.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/47-questionsinstructions-on-how-to-use-and-post-to-this-forumsite-problems-or-suggestions/

 

You can start a buildlog here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/53-before-you-post-your-build-log-please-read-this-starting-and-naming-your-build-log/

 

This topic explains how to add pictures in your posts: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/540-how-to-add-pictures-in-your-posts-and-pms/

 

Good luck with your build and happy modeling.

 

Anja

[rfolsom]

I started the Cutty Sark from a model of the old Billing Boat's No. 459 purchased from ebay last year for $70.  I am guessing this unstarted model was 30 to 40 years old at the time I purchased it, and did not come with a fittings kit.

Edited July 1, 2013 by rfolsom

[rfolsom]

The best thing about this kit is it came with two copies of George Campbell's plans for the actual CS restoration during the 1950's.  I quickly put away the mahogany planking, pre-lined decking, and crudely printed deckhouse pieces and started the build almost entirely from scratch on the kit's reasonably accurate die-cut framing.  (This is a couple decades before laser cutting.)

Edited July 1, 2013 by rfolsom

[rfolsom]

The "shark's fins" wood are actually attic dividers for Real Good Toys' dollhouse models.  These mdf pieces are EXTREMELY accurate, and I use them to square the bulkheads.

Edited July 1, 2013 by rfolsom

[rfolsom]

Progress on the false deck, tests of planking

Edited July 1, 2013 by rfolsom

[Dognut]

Hi rfolsom,

Really like the work you've done so far. I impulsively bought a CS kit a few years ago (constructo), and made fair progress with the hull and planking until I ran into a major problem with the bow. My inexperience led to mine looking like something an ice-breaker would be proud of, rather than the sharp lines of a clipper.

Life also got in the way.

 

I recently got my poor model out from where it was "buried" under a lot of desk clutter, and I'll soon start my own build log. I must just work out how the camera works - a digital one I inherited from my dad.

 

So, welcome, and I'll be following your build with interest! 

[rfolsom]

Hello, Dognut;

Thank you for your compliments!  However,  I'd be willing to bet you have much more experience than I do, and I am looking forward to this forum.  You know, we can't all be perfect in our endeavors, so don't sweat it, and I'd be willing to guess that if I saw your build pictures, I'd probably hide in a cave .

 

Bob

[rfolsom]

Oh yes, the sample panel I showed has 1/16" basswood planks with:  black paint;  Sharpie; and what I found the best caulking was a black fabric marker from Micheal's  (It didn't bleed, see the bottom of the test panel)

[NenadM]

Hello Bob

 

I am glad to see another Cutty here

 

Follow you with great interest

 

Nenad

[rfolsom]

Some deck work....

Edited July 1, 2013 by rfolsom

[rfolsom]

More pics..

[rfolsom]

Deckhouses start...

Edited July 1, 2013 by rfolsom

[rfolsom]

Poop deck and deckhouse progress....

Edited July 1, 2013 by rfolsom

[petehay]

Can you explain your deck planking process?

Pete

[NenadM]

Yes, I am also interested for your technique 

 

Nenad

[rfolsom]

Hello Pete and Nenad; 

 

I'll try my best to explain the method to my madness...  I have more photos of the deck build if you wish to see them...  Obviously, my decking is built upon a false deck made of 1/32" basswood.  After joining several sheets together, I began the long process of penciling lines based on Mr. Cambell's plans.  My rule, at the time, was for every 50 minutes of research, pondering, and staring at plans, 10 minutes would be spent on actual construction.  These plans are a must have for everyone attempting the CS (accurately), and  I would have given up long ago without them.  Anyway,  after establishing an accurate center line on my basswood sheet, I began drawing the perpendicular lines;  first, section lines from the deck plans, then the actual deck beam locations from the side view.  I spent a very large amout of time in doing this as accurately as possible, also transferring the locations of the coamings for the deck structures. 1/16"x 1/32" basswood strips fits very well into the scale 5" width of these planks.  I then started from the stern end of the main deck and put the first part of the aft hatch coaming into place.  The amazing part was that everything lined up perfectly!  I cut many 3.5 in. planks and they always seemed to land on a beam line.  The staggering of the butts can be detailed in Cambell's China Tea Clippers book..  I planked from coaming to coaming, then around and out, and it worked out pretty well.

 

Obviously, building false decking on a flat surface would not introduce the true camber of the deck, but for my build, it worked pretty well.

 

I hope my rambling helps, and if you have more questions, please let me know.

 

Thanks for your interest!

 

Bob

Edited July 2, 2013 by rfolsom

[rfolsom]

More pictures...

[rfolsom]

Some of the skylight..

[NenadM]

I learn from you, and watching carefully. Still far away from that phase,  but learning

 

Thx

[rfolsom]

We always learn from each other, and I'm glad to be a part of a forum with so many good people.

Edited July 2, 2013 by rfolsom

[rfolsom]

Hatch, windlass prototype, and pigpen and paint locker...

[rfolsom]

Tried to caulk the top of the poop deckhouse with white;  this did not work well, but too much time invested....

[md1400cs]

Bob,

 

Hi welcome to MSW (I'm a newbie as well). Your CS looks to be astonishing. Your attention to factual details is super impressive. I look forward to following your progress. Congrats...nice choice for a build. 

 

The new rebuilt museum for this ship looks awesome. I need to get there one of these days (:-)

 

Regards    Michael

[petehay]

Am I correct that you are inking/painting the caulking on the edges of the deck planks prior to assembly? Would you explain what you're using (technical pen?) because it looks great.

Pete

[rfolsom]

Hi Michael;

 

Thanks so much for your kind words and a warm welcome to a fellow newbie!  I'd love to visit the actual ship;  probably won't happen anytime soon, though..  What project(s) are you currently working on?

 

-Bob

[rfolsom]

Hello, Pete,

 

Thanks for the compliment;  after experimenting with all sorts of paints, markers, and even string, I found my best results from my girlfriend's black fabric marker (who would have thought?).  It does not leech into the grain of the wood like a Sharpie, and has no build-up like paint.  I mark both sides of each plank, but only one of the butt ends.  I believe she gets these markers at Michael's craft store. Here's a pic..

[rfolsom]

Finished paint locker/pigpen, and windlass assembly process.  I wound up painting the paint locker white, and the pigpen black.  Not sure if this is correct, (Campbell's plans do not say) but a photo of the real ship shows a white paint locker, and who would paint white a cage for farm animals? (Maybe I'm wrong)

[md1400cs]

Hi Michael;

 

Thanks so much for your kind words and a warm welcome to a fellow newbie!  I'd love to visit the actual ship;  probably won't happen anytime soon, though..  What project(s) are you currently working on?

 

-Bob

I'm working on Corel's Wasa. She is my second build, the first was some 40 years ago. There should be a link just below my posts. Thanks for your interest.

Regards,  Michael

[rfolsom]

As this is a composite ship, the bulwarks from the original were made of iron.  This highly inaccurate kit would have you plank right up the bulwarks with wood.  I chose to form the bulwarks from 1/32" basswood sheet, which will be sealed and painted.    Since most of the hull below the waterline is coppered, I chose to plank with 1/4" basswood, only turning to 1/8" basswood after the copper line to keep things in scale.  Stern filler blocks were re-sculped by parakeets, so no more of their cage on my workbench...