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This was from vol. 3?   There is an "IF" phrase in your quoted phrase.   I was not able to find the original article on the CD.  Thus, I am not able to discover the context.

He is describing a way to build a strong deck on some model by laying it in two layers.  The under layer being laid at 45 degrees.  I am guessing that the beams are spaced too far apart to provide 90 degree strength.

 

There are some examples that I have seen in Paris? or similar with diagonal planking that was an attempt to resist hogging or sagging.   I read that one of the innovations with the original version of Constitution was a series of substantial riders that were diagonal and chevron in pattern.

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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Some wooden minesweeper hulls were planked in two layers. The inner layer was at 45 degrees to the horizontal/vertical and the outer layer was a more normal parallel to the horizontal. The frames were typical wooden ship design. I don't know if the deck planking was in two layers (I don't recall spending much time looking at the overhead), but the top layer was normal longitudinal planking.

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Good Morning Everyone;

 

I can understand the reason for making the lower planking diagonal in a model for strength, if this layer is then covered by a more normally-oriented set of planking.

 

Re full size practice, when Robert Seppings became Surveyor of the Navy in the early 1800s, one of the reforms which he introduced was diagonal deck planking, and diagonal riders. The riders were successful, but the deck planking was dropped after a few years, if I remember correctly. 

 

See below part of a plate from John Fincham's works, showing some ways in which this was done.

 

Diagonal ledges seems to run counter to one of his guiding principles though, which were to reduce timber consumption, as well as to add strength. 

 

All the best,

 

Mark P

 

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Edited by Mark P

Previously built models (long ago, aged 18-25ish) POB construction. 32 gun frigate, scratch-built sailing model, Underhill plans.

2 masted topsail schooner, Underhill plans.

 

Started at around that time, but unfinished: 74 gun ship 'Bellona' NMM plans. POB 

 

On the drawing board: POF model of Royal Caroline 1749, part-planked with interior details. My own plans, based on Admiralty draughts and archival research.

 

Always on the go: Research into Royal Navy sailing warship design, construction and use, from Tudor times to 1790. 

 

Member of NRG, SNR, NRS, SMS

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i try to learn something new everyday, shame i missed the idea for 60 years of my life

 

i have never heard of the diagonal  under decking

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Below is the entire bit in the original Shop Notes that was initially referenced.  Below that is the original published in the Secretaries Newsletter Vol 3 - pg 25.  It is an exact copy of the referenced text that I found in the #3 SNL file on the CD.  It was a shop note in the SNL - no other related info.

 

Kurt

 

PLANKED DECKS by John J. Flynn (3-2)
If one is at all apprehensive about an individually laid planked
deck opening up, make allowances for a double deck. The lower planking
should be laid at a 45 degree angle to the center of the ship.
In the past I used blackened glue to indicate seams between
deck planks, but no longer do so. I feel the seams and butts are prominent
enough with just a glue line.
I put in enough nails to hold each plank until the glue underneath
it has dried. The nails are left slightly above the deck surface so
they can be easily drawn. Sanding fills these nail holes and is just suggestive
enough of actual wooden plugs put over the counter sunk nail
holes in a full sized vessel.

 

 

 

Kurt Van Dahm

Director

NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD

www.thenrg.org

SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS

CLUBS

Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago

Midwest Model Shipwrights

North Shore Deadeyes

The Society of Model Shipwrights

Butch O'Hare - IPMS

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