Vasa by marktiedens - FINISHED - Sergal - scale 1:60

[marktiedens]

Thanks everyone for your nice comments.  Nigel - I seem to be drawn to ships of this era with their extreme sheer - they just seem so majestic.Buck - the top rail moulding is 210mm long & 2mm wide.It`s actually made of brass & has a flowery design stamped on it.I just touched the highlighted areas with a small brush with different colors.Don`t know if it`s correct but it seems to look ok to me.Sorry about the poor photos - I need to experiment a little more with the settings. :mellow:

[NAZGÛL]

Looking great Mark! It must be a relief to be done with so much painting.

 

 

/Matti

[marktiedens]

Thanks Matti.Very little paint work left - like the lion heads on the gunport lids.

[marktiedens]

Working on the cannons now.They are nicely made with the lions cast onto the barrels.They were way too shiney out of the box so I darkened them with a thin black wash.Note how the breech ropes go through the carriages & not the back of the cannon.

 

 

 

 

Mark

[WackoWolf]

Beautiful work, there isn't really anything more that I can say. Keep the pictures coming.

[NMBROOK]

The cannons look great Mark.Breaching ropes through the carriages was common on French ships as well

Kind Regards Nigel

[md1400cs]

Mark,

 

Very nice work. Sergal sure got things right with this kit. Love the cannons. 

 

Regards,

 

Michael

[marktiedens]

Thanks everyone.  Glad to have almost all the painting done.Starting to think about all the rigging coming up - not my favorite thing to to.

[NAZGÛL]

Yeah, I know how you feel.

 

/Matti

[marktiedens]

Finally got the upper deck cannons finished.

 

 

Mark

[marktiedens]

Anyone know where I can find a correct rigging plan ?I am to the point that I would like to establish the belaying points on the deck & hull.My Sergal plans appear to be totally wrong.I do have the corel plans but I don`t know how accurate they are.

[NAZGÛL]

Mark, I think it could be in the new Vasa book soon to be released. Im not 100% sure if the rigging is in it though.

 

Nice work on the canons!

 

 

/Matti

Edited November 12, 2013 by NAZGÛL

[marktiedens]

Thanks Matti.What book is that & do you know who will be selling it?

[NAZGÛL]

This is the first part in the book series:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Vasa-Archaeology-Maritima-National-Maritime/dp/9197465909

 

Like said, Im not sure if rigging will be in part 2, but it will be released pretty soon and Im sure you can learn if it does before buying it.

 

 

/Matti

Edited November 13, 2013 by NAZGÛL

[Lin Feng]

Anyone know where I can find a correct rigging plan ?I am to the point that I would like to establish the belaying points on the deck & hull.My Sergal plans appear to be totally wrong.I do have the corel plans but I don`t know how accurate they are.

Maybe following will help. There is also a belaying plan on the site

http://www.jans-sajt.se/

[marktiedens]

A litttle update.Been working on the chainplates.I didn`t like the kit version so I found some flat bar chainplates from Amati at ages of sail.

 

 

After cutting off the little ears from the brass strips & doing a little bending & filing I ended up with something similar to what they should look like.

 

 

 

 

Mark

[md1400cs]

Mark,

 

EXCELLENT..I am also struggling with the chainplates. Age of Sail also sent me those Amanti plates, but with round blocks. I found that trying to assemble them was futile. So now I'm working with those included in the kit, but they are not correct either.

 

 

I would like to get better looks at what you did, it really looks excellent. I would like to revisit those Amanti pieces and follow your excellent design. I also like those triangle shaped blocks. Would you be so kind as to post a close-up of how you adapted those pieces, especially at the block end? It looks as though you also shortened the plate and bent it over the brass rings which you inverted to loop towards the inside.

 

The pic is What Corel supplies for several of its kits. Not even a single, but a trike out. Also way too long. 

 

Thanks in advance

 

Michael

[marktiedens]

Michael - I will try to explain a little better.In the first picture the chainplates & strops are as they came out of the package as you already know.On the right side of the picture is how they look after simply bending them with a very thin tipped needle nose pliers & a little swearing .My last post was the 5mm mizzen deadeyes.This picture is of the 7mm deadeyes.The 5mm chainplates came out just the right length but the 7mm chainplates as you can see had 2 nailing holes & were too long.They came out about the right length after cutting the lower hole off.

 

 

The next picture is after inserting the deadeye & bending over the small loop on the end of the chainplate.

 

 

The next picture is after securing with a drop of solder & bending to about the right shape.

 

The next picture is after filing off the sharp points at the nailing end of the chainplate.

 

 

Now all that`s left to do is paint them black.I was fortunate that my kit came with the correctly shaped triangular deadeyes although the bad part is the holes in most of the deadeyes are drilled way off center  .I hope this explains it a little better.

 

regards,Mark

[md1400cs]

Mark, yes very clear follow up. Much appreciated. Excellent solution. Very creative on your part. This never even occurred to me whoa (:-)

These will look very close to the original on the 1/10th as well as the 1:1

 

I think that when you add the ropes to your deadeyes the off center holes will mostly visually disappear. 

 

Thanks for the extra pics.

 

Michael

[dkettl]

I am building the Mantua Sergal Vasa also.  I am on the first layer of planking. Can anyone send a close-up picture that shows how the side planking meets the stern planking or a detailed description.  The junction of the planking seems to meet in thin air and is not attached to anything.

 

Thanks,

 

dkettl

 

email: e-mail address removed by moderator to prevent spamming.

Edited December 1, 2013 by Anja
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[marktiedens]

Hello dkettl.I am afraid I don`t have any pictures of this area as I didn`t start a log or take any pictures until halfway through the build but I will try to explain how I did this area.If memory serves me correct you are correct about the planking seeming to end in mid-air.I planked the 3 stern counter formers before the hull side planking & left them a little long.Then I brought the hull side planking up to meet the counter planking.Any small errors or gaps can then be covered by the second planking.Hope this helps.

 

Mark

[Andre]

Mark,

I will soon also start on the chainplates and stops. Until your post I was wondering how to replace my Corel parts, as I did not like them enough. I have searched a bit and found in my country similar parts as yours in an on-line shop. As there are two sizes I do not know which to choose: how long are the 5 mm and the 7 mm parts?

Thanks for all your wonderful updates and photos!

Andre

[marktiedens]

Andre - the 5mm plates are 22mm long & 2mm wide.The 7mm plates are 27mm long & 2.5mm wide.These measurements do not include the little "ears" that I cut off.After thinking about it I could probably have made these out of some plain brass strip.At the scale of your ship they might be a little too wide.

 

 

 

Mark

[Andre]

Mark,

Thanks for your additional info and pictures. They did help me a lot in my choice. Considering the scale of my model, I have ordered the 5 mm versions from a UK on-line shop.

 

Andre

[md1400cs]

Mark.

 

I have a question, if you don't mind. I think that you mentioned that you added a ridge on your deck railings using your Proxxon milling machine? 

What did you use to attach the long strips as you were rotating the lateral wheel to get that perfect looking ridge?

 

PS: Your railings look so excellent.

 

Regards,

 

Michael

[marktiedens]

Michael - actually I don`t have a milling machine & probably would not know how to use it if I did .The upper railings are actually brass mouldings that came in the kit.All I had to do was cut & bend them to the correct shape - which was not too easy as they were folded up in the box.Made for some sore fingers for a while.I don`t know if they were intended for the railings as the really bad instructions made no mention of them for this purpose.In fact I am pretty much ignoring the instructions anyway.One of the frustrating things about this kit is all the wood is plywood except for the planking strips so I have had to either paint or veneer the edges where they show.

 

regards,Mark

[md1400cs]

Mark,

 

Thanks. I know that you spent a lot of time with those railings, My mindset was that it was with the milling tool. However your time sure was well spent those metal railings they look so original to the 1:1. Didn't know about all of that plywood, sort of cost cutting on their part .Too bad.

 

But, your build sure is coming out beautifully.

 

Michael

[marktiedens]

Thanks Michael.now for a little update.Chainplates done & installed.I fastened the channels just above the wales instead of on top of them otherwise the chainplates would be too short.Did not think ahead far enough as usual .

 

 

 

 

Mark

[md1400cs]

Mark,

 

Came out so beautifully. Looks excellent.

 

PS: Every time I look at your Vasa, it still amazes me how you did those white scallopings on the galleries.

 

 

Michael

[marktiedens]

Thanks Michael  - your comments are much appreciated.