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HMS Victory by Bill97 - FINISHED - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC


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Daniel and Kevin, disregard the current evergreen I am using to widen the wales. Reference your current comment about opening the lower door to the side gallery. Are you talking about the one I am pointing to in the photo?  If so what was your process/method to do it?

3E523C14-3C0C-489F-8899-E9119BA5FD92.jpeg

Edited by Bill97
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Hi Bill, I haven’t opened this one up yet, but probably will once I’ve finished remaking the quarter galleries and was thinking I’d ignore the moulding and align it to the ones above. I don’t know how worthwhile it is, as my current ‘design intent’  has me resin printing the window panes and it might be literally invisible. But if I use clear plastic (likely) it would be. I have opened the closed ports at the prow and stern, just because I want as much detail as possible.

 

Personally I doubt I’ll widen the wales and especially not take off the grain! Much as I’d like to do both and think them great modifications, I think I’d lose the will to live or at least to keep working on the model! Famous last words though, it wouldn’t be the first thing on the model where I’ve done a complete rethink and gone back to the beginning.

Current builds:

1) HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

2) Bluenose II 1:100 (Billing) - paused, not in the mood

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30694-billing-bluenose-ii-1100-no600-by-kevin-the-lubber/

 

3) Cutty Sark 1:96 Revell

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Stash:

Revell Cutty Sark 1/96 (a spare for later)

Revell Beagle 1/96 (unlikely to ever get built!)

Revell Kearsage 1/96 (can't wait to get started on this)

Revell Constitution 1/96

 

If at first you don't succeed, buy some more tools.

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I like the "Art Brute"

 

Plenty of 1 mm holes in safe distance to the edge, all around the frame, then the scalpel and then the files 🙂

 

For this, even I use a motordrill 😉

 

XXXDAn

Victory 101125_2334.jpg

To victory and beyond! http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/76-hms-victory-by-dafi-to-victory-and-beyond/

See also our german forum for Sailing Ship Modeling and History: http://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/

Finest etch parts for HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller Kit) and other useful bits.

http://dafinismus.de/index_en.html

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Thanks Daniel and Kevin. Since I am in absolutely no hurry to finish this beauty I will probably do the doors as well. With that in mind I am curious about the added side entrance. The model obviously does not come that way. I see some builders bash it to add the entrance, some leave it as is. Your thoughts?  And if you did do it, did you make the decorative architectural piece that goes around it?  And of course I know I would need to change the steps. 
 

Daniel I had a nice surprise yesterday. I was looking over the downloads for the plates I got. I forgot that included in plate 4 is the very tiny additions for the cannons, which I thought I had finished and stored away until needed. Looks like I will be getting them back out and putting my magnifying lamp to work 😀.

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The side entrance is next on my list. Daniel does a very nice kit including steps. For me it was a must do, not just because it adds detail and colour to the sides, but because the moulded steps are a bit bland. I've had a couple of goes at it myself, first making steps from evergreen card - they were pretty rubbish - and then 3D printing on a filament printer. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-a-novices-journey/. Better, but I'm still not happy enough with the result and, as the kit in my log is just the practice kit for trying stuff out, I'll be using a slightly approach when I go back to it, and resin printing which allows 100 times the detail, literally I think. 

Current builds:

1) HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

2) Bluenose II 1:100 (Billing) - paused, not in the mood

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30694-billing-bluenose-ii-1100-no600-by-kevin-the-lubber/

 

3) Cutty Sark 1:96 Revell

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Stash:

Revell Cutty Sark 1/96 (a spare for later)

Revell Beagle 1/96 (unlikely to ever get built!)

Revell Kearsage 1/96 (can't wait to get started on this)

Revell Constitution 1/96

 

If at first you don't succeed, buy some more tools.

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All right gang I have fixed all the messy holes I poorly drilled for the cannon hatch support wires. I also now have all the rigols shaved off and hull sanded smooth where they were. Ready for Daniel’s etched rigols. I also have all the evergreen strips in place to widen the wales. The evergreen I used was unfortunately a bit thicker than I wanted (1mm). Could not find thinner and was to impatient to wait for online delivery. But as a result I now have to hand sand it down to be flush with the narrow wale that is already on the hull. As I do this sanding, and all the other required sanding, this is the first time I am concerned I may do more damage than good!  I hope not. As I sanded, with fine grit paper, the rigol areas and now the evergreen widen wales I am realizing I can not avoid sanding off the simulated wood grain at those spots and areas. I don’t want to sand down the entire hull above the simulated brass plates. I am hoping once I paint the hull and the future rigging of he channels, etc will cover areas where the grain is gone. Have you guys experienced the same issue?

355E7860-5607-490C-8293-A3E3AA839BA9.jpeg

99A535E3-0DA5-4D53-A319-9A7D1C4050B0.jpeg

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I’m sure it’ll all be fine Bill. If it was me, I’d just be careful about the faint bee lines that give a guide for the yellow and black stripes. 

Current builds:

1) HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

2) Bluenose II 1:100 (Billing) - paused, not in the mood

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30694-billing-bluenose-ii-1100-no600-by-kevin-the-lubber/

 

3) Cutty Sark 1:96 Revell

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Stash:

Revell Cutty Sark 1/96 (a spare for later)

Revell Beagle 1/96 (unlikely to ever get built!)

Revell Kearsage 1/96 (can't wait to get started on this)

Revell Constitution 1/96

 

If at first you don't succeed, buy some more tools.

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Great Kevin, thanks. I am avoiding those bee lines. I also noticed I covered with the evergreen several dots that looked as if they may be glue points for future parts. I guess if I find they were I will just drill more through the Evergreen. 
BTW while watching the Olympic opening ceremony last night I paged through the rigging section of Longridge’s book. Quite a few great diagrams showing the rigging. Diagrams show quite a bit of extensive rigging at each mast. Did you try to replicate every rope (thread) pictured?  Wow! That would be a monstrous undertaking!

Edited by Bill97
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1 hour ago, Bill97 said:

........ I paged through the rigging section of Longridge’s book. Quite a few great diagrams showing the rigging. Diagrams show quite a bit of extensive rigging at each mast. Did you try to replicate every rope (thread) pictured?  Wow! That would be a monstrous undertaking!

 

This large model deserves, nay demands, extensive rigging. It is an undertaking, but well worth the time.

P1010144.thumb.JPG.7b2bb10582d1321d8c7c8ad863a5d01e.JPG

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By the way, have you also got/looked at 'The 100-Gun Ship: Victory' by John McKay. It also has excellent drawings of blocks and rigging. I have no idea how accurate it is or how it dovetails with Longridge but personally I'll be slightly more inclined to start with this as the illustrations seem very clear.

Current builds:

1) HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

2) Bluenose II 1:100 (Billing) - paused, not in the mood

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30694-billing-bluenose-ii-1100-no600-by-kevin-the-lubber/

 

3) Cutty Sark 1:96 Revell

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Stash:

Revell Cutty Sark 1/96 (a spare for later)

Revell Beagle 1/96 (unlikely to ever get built!)

Revell Kearsage 1/96 (can't wait to get started on this)

Revell Constitution 1/96

 

If at first you don't succeed, buy some more tools.

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Yes, I have, same with those on the counter. I forced a scalpel through bit by bit, wiggling it around, after shaping a bit of wood to go underneath to give support while I cut through. I could probably re-use the doors with a little dressing.

 

Something I noticed today which you might want to think about. Where the hull butts up to the stern plate, it misaligns to the line of the windows. This is because the window edge line is straight all the way from top to bottom whereas the hull curves gently outwards from top to bottom. Consequently, the hull interferes with the bottom outer windows by about 1.5mm. Easy fix is to sand off the wale in the quarter gallery area, that’ll be enough and it’s hidden anyway.

Current builds:

1) HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

2) Bluenose II 1:100 (Billing) - paused, not in the mood

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30694-billing-bluenose-ii-1100-no600-by-kevin-the-lubber/

 

3) Cutty Sark 1:96 Revell

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Stash:

Revell Cutty Sark 1/96 (a spare for later)

Revell Beagle 1/96 (unlikely to ever get built!)

Revell Kearsage 1/96 (can't wait to get started on this)

Revell Constitution 1/96

 

If at first you don't succeed, buy some more tools.

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Ok Kevin you might have me stumped with this one. Not sure I am following you. May be because I am not yet familiar with all the nautical terms. Not sure what the stern plate is and where the hull butts up to it. 

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This is what I mean Bill. It'll be clearer when you offer up the large stern piece to the assembled hulls.

 

642619298_hullatstern.jpg.0cbc0a99f7dd4cae67f6c76b56cebc82.jpg

Current builds:

1) HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

2) Bluenose II 1:100 (Billing) - paused, not in the mood

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30694-billing-bluenose-ii-1100-no600-by-kevin-the-lubber/

 

3) Cutty Sark 1:96 Revell

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Stash:

Revell Cutty Sark 1/96 (a spare for later)

Revell Beagle 1/96 (unlikely to ever get built!)

Revell Kearsage 1/96 (can't wait to get started on this)

Revell Constitution 1/96

 

If at first you don't succeed, buy some more tools.

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Thanks, it's coming along bit by bit. That one was the first 'print & paint' to see whether this was going to work out as hoped for. I'd guess at another month or two till I have a complete replacement stern and quarter galleries. This is why I'm starting to notice various small details, as I'm staring at the one area far too much!

Current builds:

1) HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

2) Bluenose II 1:100 (Billing) - paused, not in the mood

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30694-billing-bluenose-ii-1100-no600-by-kevin-the-lubber/

 

3) Cutty Sark 1:96 Revell

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Stash:

Revell Cutty Sark 1/96 (a spare for later)

Revell Beagle 1/96 (unlikely to ever get built!)

Revell Kearsage 1/96 (can't wait to get started on this)

Revell Constitution 1/96

 

If at first you don't succeed, buy some more tools.

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Ok guys. I got the hull bashing done, I think. Wales widened, two hatches at the bow opened on each side, anchor shoes moved, and hatches thickened. I think I have decided against bashing to add the side entrance.  As you know that would require modification to the steps and getting the architectural piece that goes around the opening from Daniel. I am sure there will be many more things I will want to get as I progress so I sadly figure I better manage my budget to get things I deem most important. 😩 Hoping this is not a wrong decision. 

So finally after all my modifications I am ready to prep for painting the hull. A task I have looked forward to. Two questions reference this upcoming task for you guys.  Do you put the hull sections together before you paint or paint separately then put together?  On all my other builds I assembled first, puttied and sanded the crack in the keel and other joints, and then painted as one unit. I am wondering if that is the best plan with the Victory?  Maybe not. My second question is Daniel’s rigols. Do you paint the hull then add the rigols followed by touching up the rigols with a little paint, or do you add the rigols before you start painting?  

 

 

 

 

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First rigols, then paint 🙂 🙂 🙂

 

Great Job you do!

 

XXXDAn

 

 

To victory and beyond! http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/76-hms-victory-by-dafi-to-victory-and-beyond/

See also our german forum for Sailing Ship Modeling and History: http://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/

Finest etch parts for HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller Kit) and other useful bits.

http://dafinismus.de/index_en.html

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On 7/25/2021 at 12:16 PM, Kevin-the-lubber said:

This is what I mean Bill. It'll be clearer when you offer up the large stern piece to the assembled hulls.

 

642619298_hullatstern.jpg.0cbc0a99f7dd4cae67f6c76b56cebc82.jpg

As to be indicated on Lifesay´s drawing of the stern and as also mentioned by David Steel***, the outer windows of the stern could have been be mock windows. That is what I have done.

Victory-120106_7742.jpg

 

Victory-120106_7739.jpg



***The Shipwright´s vade-mecum, p.180

To victory and beyond! http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/76-hms-victory-by-dafi-to-victory-and-beyond/

See also our german forum for Sailing Ship Modeling and History: http://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/

Finest etch parts for HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller Kit) and other useful bits.

http://dafinismus.de/index_en.html

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I didn't know that, Daniel. I think I'll keep mine transparent as for mine it makes no difference either way. You did some amazingly sharp painting there, those corbels are very difficult even to model.

 

Bill, the top row is glazed, that was my 'I just want to paint something!' moment a few weeks back but it's not the finished article. I resin printed the panes for that one but the finish on one side of the 'glass' is pearl, which is why you can't see through it. I'm still undecided whether to take the easy route and stick with that method or treat myself to an expensive gateau and use the clear plastic it comes in for window glass.

Current builds:

1) HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

2) Bluenose II 1:100 (Billing) - paused, not in the mood

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30694-billing-bluenose-ii-1100-no600-by-kevin-the-lubber/

 

3) Cutty Sark 1:96 Revell

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Stash:

Revell Cutty Sark 1/96 (a spare for later)

Revell Beagle 1/96 (unlikely to ever get built!)

Revell Kearsage 1/96 (can't wait to get started on this)

Revell Constitution 1/96

 

If at first you don't succeed, buy some more tools.

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